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post #1 of 150 Old 03-16-2016, 11:47 AM - Thread Starter
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VicTorious1's Build Thread

Update 2/5/17

Room Stats
  • Room dimensions: 18.5' x 14.5'
  • Ceiling height: 7'3" and 6'5" by ducts
Soundproofing
  • Wall acoustic isolation: Clips: IsoMax and IB-3, Green Glue, Dual 5/8" Drywall, R19 fiberglass insulation
  • Ceiling acoustic isolation: Clips:IB-3, Dual 5/8" Drywall with GG, R19 fiberglass insulation
  • Two steel doors
Equipment
  • Screen: 125" Silver Ticket AT Screen attached to Minimalist Screen Wall
  • Speakers: DIYSG Elusive Titan 615 for LCR (yet to be built) with four Volt 6s and four more to be added at a later date for Atmos, which has been pre-wired;
  • Subwoofer: Dual Cyclops with Stereo Integrity 18 DS4, Dual Stonehenge with Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 18, Dual SVS PB12-NSD; and Dual Slot Ported MBMs with Dayton PA460s
  • Receiver: Denon x4300h
  • Amp: Emotiva XPA-3 for LCR, two iNuke 6000DSPs for the Cyclops and Stonehenges and an iNuke 1000DSP for the MBMs
  • Signal Processing: minidsp 2x4 unbalanced for the PB12s and the DSP in the iNukes per the above
  • Projector: JVC RS400

Update 1/16/17

Room Stats
  • Room dimensions: 18.5' x 14.5'
  • Ceiling height: 7'3" and 6'5" by ducts
Soundproofing
  • Wall acoustic isolation: Clips: IsoMax and IB-3, Green Glue, Dual 5/8" Drywall, R19 fiberglass insulation
  • Ceiling acoustic isolation: Clips:IB-3, Dual 5/8" Drywall with GG, R19 fiberglass insulation
  • Two steel doors
Equipment
  • Screen: 125" Silver Ticket AT Screen attached to Minimalist Screen Wall
  • Speakers: DIYSG Elusive 1099 for LCR with four Volt 6s and four more to be added at a later date for Atmos, which has been pre-wired; Thinking of upgrading to Titan 615s from DIYSG
  • Subwoofer: Dual Cyclops with Stereo Integrity 18 DS4, Dual Stonehenge with Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 18, Dual SVS PB12-NSD; and Dual Slot Ported MBMs with Dayton PA460s
  • Receiver: Marantz SR6007 - to be upgraded to Denon x6200, Marantz SR6011 or SR7010 for Atmos
  • Amp: Emotiva XPA-3 and two iNuke 6000DSPs for the Cyclops and Stonehenges and an iNuke 1000DSP for the MBMs
  • Projector: Epson 5010e - likely to be upgraded to Epson 5040 or wait for real 4k


Update 7/24/16

We just purchased a house (sub-2,400 sqft, including basement), which is approximately 2,000 sqft smaller than our previous house. Nevertheless, I'm in the process of starting to build my dedicated home theater space. I'd appreciate the board's advice and suggestions regarding the design of the space. I've attached a proposed layout (the theater space is to the far left in the layout diagram) and a rudimentary 3D layout. I've also included some pictures.

Room Stats
  • Room dimensions (unfinished): 19' x 15'
  • Ceiling height: 7'6" and 6'8" by ducts
Proposed Soundproofing
  • Wall acoustic isolation: Clips: (RSIC or IsoMax) and IB-3, Green Glue, Dual 5/8" Drywall, R19 fiberglass insulation
  • Ceiling acoustic isolation: Clips: (RSIC or IsoMax) and IB-3, Single 5/8" Drywall (or Dual 1/2" with GG), R19 fiberglass insulation
  • Two solid core doors
Equipment
  • Screen: 120-130" AT Screen hopefully attached to false wall
  • Speakers: Phil 2s, Philharmonitor Center, Emptek E-41-B Surrounds (to be replaced in the theater withDIYSG Elusive 1099 for LCR with four Volt 6s and four more to be added at a later date for Atmos, which has been pre-wired
  • Subwoofer: Dual SVS PB12-NSD - and Dual Stonehenge with Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 18"
  • Receiver: Marantz SR6007 - to be upgraded to Denon x6200 for Atmos
  • Amp: Emotiva XPA-3 and iNuke 6000DSP for the Stonehenges
Help Needed & Thanks in Advance
  • For fear of losing too much ceiling space, would it make more sense to use (a) clips and dual 1/2" drywall with GG in between and R19 insulation or (b) clips, a single 5/8" drywall and R19 insulation, in each case, for the ceiling?
  • Since this theater is going to be in the basement, I was only planning on using the clips, dual drywall and GG for the walls and ceiling surrounding the theater. I was not going to use the same isolation for the other basement walls (e.g., the office, laundry and utility room). Does it make sense to only use the isolation techniques for the theater walls or should I do the whole basement?
  • I've been looking at calculators for screen height and distance and have received different results. Do I have enough space (ceiling height and room length) to (a) do a false wall with AT screen and (b) have two rows of seating with the back row on a riser? - I decided against a riser as the bulkhead was making it difficult. I would have need an approximately 20" riser, and with the ceiling height already an issue, we jettisoned that idea.
  • Lastly, if I plan on doing a false wall, should I finish the wall behind it (which is currently just concrete) with clips, dual 5/8" drywall, GG and R19 insulation, or should I just build a wall in front where I would otherwise have the false wall and leave the concrete wall untouched?
Please let me know your thoughts, and again, thanks for your input. This site is invaluable.
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post #2 of 150 Old 03-16-2016, 04:56 PM
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So why the two doors for the theater?


How many seats do you actually need, and how many seats would you like?


Stadium rocker style seats might allow you to do two rows, since they allow for a compact seating arrangement.
Another front wall option might be a baffle wall. A baffle wall can be as shallow as 8", so two rows is more about
the screen size (height-wise) so the second row can see the bottom of the screen.
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post #3 of 150 Old 03-16-2016, 05:21 PM
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Thumbs up

Extend the stairs at one step height, and then enter at riser height. Then add an island style riser, on the riser, to gain proper sightlines for the second row.


So what sort of room look/finish are you after? I could see this as a pretty special budget build.
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post #4 of 150 Old 03-17-2016, 08:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
So why the two doors for the theater?


How many seats do you actually need, and how many seats would you like?


Stadium rocker style seats might allow you to do two rows, since they allow for a compact seating arrangement.
Another front wall option might be a baffle wall. A baffle wall can be as shallow as 8", so two rows is more about
the screen size (height-wise) so the second row can see the bottom of the screen.
With respect to the number of doors, the entrance to the theater will be at the bottom of the stairs and I'll also need access to the office (and the egress window), hence the second door to the theater. If I don't have a second door, it will simply be an open walkway to the office.

Regarding the number of seats, I'd prefer about 3 in the back and 2-3 in the front, but I'm not sure that is doable. I'll take a look at your baffle suggestion.
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post #5 of 150 Old 03-17-2016, 03:02 PM
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Why not have the office entry beneath the stairs?

You could also do a finished laundry room by walling the laundry room off. And maybe create a small lobby/hallway/feature wall. (I am not sure the scale of the diagram is correct... How far is it from the stairs to the bottom wall, and how far is it from the steps to the laundry room back wall? )


With 15' wide, you could do a single row of five stadium style rocker seats, and they'd be under 10' wide.


Depth of your theater is the challenge but it actually could be a really impressive space.
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post #6 of 150 Old 03-18-2016, 09:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
Extend the stairs at one step height, and then enter at riser height. Then add an island style riser, on the riser, to gain proper sightlines for the second row.


So what sort of room look/finish are you after? I could see this as a pretty special budget build.
Since we plan on doing an addition (including expanding the basement) in the near-term (2-3 years), I'm not going to do a full-blown theater room with curtains, stage, etc. Nonetheless, I'd like to do it right in the event that we keep using it for longer than 3 years. I plan on doing theater lighting, proper wiring and an equipment closet, risers, etc. I think your riser suggestion might work. I was planning on having the foyer area be the height of the last step down the stairs and have that be the same height of the entrance into the theater so that the room starts on the riser, if that makes sense. That's the grey area in my initial diagram.
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post #7 of 150 Old 03-18-2016, 06:19 PM
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You don't need a stage nor curtains nor columns to be a full blown theater....


And you needn't do a stage in front of the AT wall, with the lower ceiling. But you could do a sand filled "stage" behind the
AT wall, for the speakers to sit upon.
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post #8 of 150 Old 03-19-2016, 09:05 AM
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This could be a one row seating option that uses speaker grill fabric cloth, as wall surfaces, and in wall surround speakers, in backer boxes
for sound containment.

It could be a pretty interesting budget build, if it used five stadium rocker seats, and simple speaker grill fabric walls. A SeymourAV XD DIY AT screen
wall would hide the front speakers, and the fabric walls would hide in wall surround speakers, in backer boxes. If you don't extend the fabric panels all the
way down to the floor, then you could work in some LED down lights around the back wall and side walls. Now you could use backer boxes for some
in ceiling spot lights, and that ductwork could frame a soffit up front and then work in some screen spots. The front wall could be a plain and simple black
speaker grill AT wall, and a sand filled stage in behind. That's how my current room is, which was done because of a 80" soffit over the AT wall. I wanted a stage
but figured it'd mess with the scale, and look crowded. My next space will be bigger but it will be stage-less, as I've come to appreciate a screen with no design
distractions.
.
That angled wall could create a small lobby, and be a feature wall. And still give you some space to finish a nice laundry room. I am thinking my next space will have
a horizontal run wood wall, some spots, stand off theater name letters, and an embedded digital movie poster light box. That will add a little design flair to what will be
a pretty hard core performance driven theater that will be my next theater. I've been slowly edging that way over numerous remodels, but can't quite subscribe to a black
cave look. Some texture in the fabric walls, and some nice zoned lighting, will be what keeps my next room a step or two out of the "black cave" category. I've been thinking
of simply using Unistrut channel to mount home built fabric panels to the walls (to allow for them to be removable) plus create some depth for LED down lighting.


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/32-the...ay-got-me.html A little entry bling project, that is almost budget considering what
a 40" hdtv can be had for. I got a little carried away with this, to see how max'ed out I could get it, but it also could be a sub $200 project.


As for the speaker grill walls, I like Art Install's small rooms. I'd nix the gear up front, and do a proper AT space to disguise some of your ductwork. Rooms like the Bauhaus, Loft,
Lego, and Crystal really work the lighting as design elements.


http://www.artinstall.ru/en/


There's not a lot of single row rooms in North America, but they seem to be more popular across the Atlantic. The JBL demo room also uses panelled fabric walls, and employs
stadium seating, and it's actually a cutting edge room, despite it's simple looks.


http://ce-pro.eu/article/jbl-astound...om-at-ise-2016


Could your office be a little open concept? I could see a nice built in desk on the theater wall, and some sort of open shelving built in under the stairs. Or some simple shallow media shelves backing some office cubby space, under the stairs. That would open up the office foot print a little, and maybe let you put a little more space into the utility/storage space. And maybe a nice laundry room gets you a little bonus points, for the theater.


That is a rather nice basement and your want list is very realistic, for it. You could build a simple but high performance room, in that space, and you could achieve reference levels with
dome tweeter'ed speakers, since the foot print is reasonably compact. The seating for five also makes for simpler cooling needs.


BTW, you really don't want second row seating on the back wall, and right on top of the rear surround speakers. You need some physical separation so individual surround speakers aren't pulled
out of the surround sound mix, and you ideally want at least three feet off the speakers. Stadium seating might get you a compact enough seating to have 2 rows of 4. One nice thing about a single row is you can plant the seating around the 2/3rds mark, and easily have the seating off the back wall. Four feet off the back wall and surround speakers is a nice luxury to have, though.


Anyways just throwing ideas at you...


BTW, where the future addition going? That could be a factor with future traffic flow.
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post #9 of 150 Old 05-18-2016, 10:32 AM - Thread Starter
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So, we've been making some progress on the dedicated HT. The framing is largely complete. We decoupled the walls from the cement by including a 1.5" gap between the framing and the walls. We decoupled the top plate from the joists using IB-3 clips. For the wall that is shared with the adjacent room and the hallway/entrance, we used a room-within-a-room framing with a half inch gap between the 2'x4's. I plan on using two doors for additional sound transmission reduction.











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post #10 of 150 Old 05-18-2016, 11:36 AM
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I like most of what I see. What are your plans for the ceiling?

You know you can't conceal this shut off valve, you need a permanent hatch cover.

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post #11 of 150 Old 05-18-2016, 11:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I like most of what I see. What are your plans for the ceiling?

You know you can't conceal this shut off valve, you need a permanent hatch cover.
Thanks, Big. We moved the shutoff valve to the hallway/mudroom where there will either be a drop ceiling or an access panel. Additionally, I wish I had made it all the way through some of your threads as we had to cut the 2x4s and lower the top plate in order to attach the IB-3 clips.
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post #12 of 150 Old 05-18-2016, 12:10 PM - Thread Starter
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IsoMax clips, hat channel, Insulation, wiring and puttied backer boxes have largely been completed as well. We're running smurf tube to the projector location and to the front/screen wall. We attached the canned lights to the hat channel and will be using OSB as the first layer for both the projector and the false wall locations. We'll then attach GG and drywall over the OSB. I'm usually pretty OCD about wiring, but I laid the speaker wiring above the hat channel. I plan on stapling it to the joists this evening.

I plan on making a sealed door/compartment for the electrical panel and the heat register and cold air return (both of which are 4"x10"). The doors to close these compartments will be two layers of MDF with GG in between. Does anyone know whether I should use any weatherstripping or any other flange for the door to the electrical panel?









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Are you using 2 layers of 5/8 DW on the ceiling? I am using isomax clips as well with 22 guage futting channel. Here are the pictures. My soffit is attached directly to the joist can I still decouple it?
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post #14 of 150 Old 07-24-2016, 07:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBMM79 View Post
Are you using 2 layers of 5/8 DW on the ceiling? I am using isomax clips as well with 22 guage futting channel. Here are the pictures. My soffit is attached directly to the joist can I still decouple it?
Sorry, just saw this. I decoupled the soffit from the joist with the IB-3 clips. As a result, I just attached the two layers of 5/8 drywall directly to the soffit framing around the heat run.
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post #15 of 150 Old 07-24-2016, 07:34 AM - Thread Starter
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I've slacked on updating this thread as we had a more than minor setback. We had some water damage, but were able to rectify the situation after stripping some of the drywall and sealing some of the poured cement. We plan to do some external water mitigation over the coming year, but hopefully the current fix lasts for awhile. We've had several big storms since then and no water in the basement as a result. Fingers crossed.

Now with that out of the way, below are some updated pics with the first layer of drywall installed. The second layer on the sides of the soffit had not been installed in the below pics. In certain spots we used plywood as the first layer so we can easily hang any given item (projector, speakers, false wall, etc.).






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post #16 of 150 Old 07-24-2016, 07:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Below are some pics after painting. The floor board trim still needs to be painted. We initially were going to use DriCore; however, after advice from some folks on the board and some research, we decided to use Platon and Advantech treated plywood for the subfloor. Nailing/tapconing the plywood to the cement was not easy. Luckily, we didn't need to use too many.






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post #17 of 150 Old 07-24-2016, 08:59 AM - Thread Starter
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I decided to go with speakers from DIYSG (3 Elusive 1099s, 2 Stonehenges with Dayton 18s and 4 Volt 6s) and will be using Duratex to paint the cabinets. Added the first coat of Duratex and began sanding before putting on the second coat. I'm going for a smoother finish than with the textured roller and bought a smooth high density foam roller and nap roller from Home Depot. I attempted laying a relatively thick first layer and then will be diluting the remaining Duratex with some water (4 oz for half a gallon I believe).








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post #18 of 150 Old 10-18-2016, 11:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Some additional progress has been made:
  • Largely finished painting
  • Went with Platon and Advantech Subfloor instead of DriCore
  • Built a minimalist screen wall using BIG's method.
  • Finished the three 1099s for LCR, the four Volt 6 LXEs for side and rear surrounds and the two Stonehenges with Dayton RSSHO-18s. I'm in the process of building two LTD02 modified Cyclops subs to sit on top of the Stonehenges.

Some updated pics:





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post #19 of 150 Old 10-18-2016, 11:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Still deciding on the arrangement of my LCR and subs and what baffle wall setup to use. I might build a narrow wall around the center channel and enclose the center channel in between the four subs and then build a baffle wall surrounding the LR. Alternatively, I could build the subs into the baffle wall and place the subs below the LCR. Lastly, I might just use room treatments and avoid building a baffle wall altogether. Decisions, decisions....


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post #20 of 150 Old 10-18-2016, 01:22 PM
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post #21 of 150 Old 10-18-2016, 01:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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If you stack them you'd likely get more even bass coverage.
Yeah. I'm leaning towards stacking them as the subs are a little too high to use as stands.
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post #22 of 150 Old 10-18-2016, 01:26 PM
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Yeah. I'm leaning towards stacking them as the subs are a little too high to use as stands.
@eng-399 has had his success this way.
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post #23 of 150 Old 10-18-2016, 01:39 PM
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VicTorious1's Build Thread - Help Needed

I stacked my slot ported boxes on top of each other. I attached them together with some brackets and screws so the top box doesn't shift or move around with heavy bass clips. My vote would be to do the same. Hopefully You should have enough room for LCR for all this. Maybe some nearfield subs down the road for you to. Hopefully its not to late to wire them behind your seats. If I did it over again I would of planned for more room for nearfield subs having only 14" inches makes it hard but I made it work. There's nothing like getting kicked in the back of the chair with bass during gun shots and explosions it's a lot of fun.
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post #24 of 150 Old 10-18-2016, 02:33 PM - Thread Starter
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I stacked my slot ported boxes on top of each other. I attached them together with some brackets and screws so the top box doesn't shift or move around with heavy bass clips. My vote would be to do the same. Hopefully You should have enough room for LCR for all this. Maybe some nearfield subs down the road for you to. Hopefully its not to late to wire them behind your seats. If I did it over again I would of planned for more room for nearfield subs having only 14" inches makes it hard but I made it work. There's nothing like getting kicked in the back of the chair with bass during gun shots and explosions it's a lot of fun.
Yeah, I think stacking them will work nice. I wired for nearfield. Initially I'll be using two SVS PB12-NSDs for nearfield. I ran both two subwoofer/RCA cables and two 12 gauge speaker wire runs.

Any suggestions for nearfield subs?
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post #25 of 150 Old 10-18-2016, 02:45 PM
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There's so many options out there... diy you can buy the um18-22 or the stereo integrity ds4 or hst sub there's so many out there it all comes down to your budget and if going diy having the time to build everything. I first used 8-12's and now I'm using a Legacy 15" driver that was a buy out from parts express that use to be in there legacy extreme HD box that you can still buy and its way better than my 8-12's by fair. I'm glad your thinking nearfield when people sit in the last row of my room and underworld awaking or other gun fighting movies play the seats push and pull like your getting hit In The back. It almost makes you feel like your right there in the movie.

I went sealed because of the limited space but if you have the room go for a ported box by a commercial company or diy it.
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post #26 of 150 Old 10-18-2016, 03:05 PM
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...Continued from the Martysub thread

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Originally Posted by VicTorious1 View Post
Three 1099s, two Stonehenges, two Cyclops, two SVS PB12s (for nearfield), and eight Volt 6s (when all's said and done).
An embarrassment of riches if I've ever seen one  .

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I haven't yet installed the Atmos speakers, just wired for it. Still debating whether to get the Marantz SR6011 or the Denon X6200 or to just go with Dirac (and no Atmos).
Why no atmos if you grab an avr with Dirac? I'm assuming cost? Also, did you purchase the XPA 3 specifically for the 1099's?



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post #27 of 150 Old 10-18-2016, 03:28 PM - Thread Starter
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...Continued from the Martysub thread


Why no atmos if you grab an avr with Dirac? I'm assuming cost? Also, did you purchase the XPA 3 specifically for the 1099's
I'm not aware of an Atmos solution that also uses Dirac. I believe Dirac is only 7.1, so it would be quite pricey to buy an Atmos receiver and then simply bypass the Audyssey.
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post #28 of 150 Old 10-18-2016, 03:28 PM
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Ahh makes sense, I was completely unaware.

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post #29 of 150 Old 10-18-2016, 04:36 PM
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I'm not aware of an Atmos solution that also uses Dirac. I believe Dirac is only 7.1, so it would be quite pricey to buy an Atmos receiver and then simply bypass the Audyssey.
It's pricey compared to other receivers, but I thought the Arcam Atmos receiver was updated to have Dirac for all channels and not just 7.1.
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post #30 of 150 Old 10-18-2016, 05:40 PM - Thread Starter
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It's pricey compared to other receivers, but I thought the Arcam Atmos receiver was updated to have Dirac for all channels and not just 7.1.
Yeah, forgo about that because of the price. I wasn't trying to spend $3500-$4000 on my receiver. Not yet at least. I don't think there's enough Atmos material yet for it to be worth that price.
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