I spent a day painting the ceiling and walls. Then I painted all vents and outlet covers flat black. I left the outlets white so when everything was in you could still find them in the darker room. Most are not visible at all with everything in the room, so it worked out and saved me having to replace all outlets with black.
When I swapped the room around, I figured the screen would be too big to mount the IR receiver on the wall above it, so I tested it (old Niles IRP6+) 90 degrees off axis and it worked. So I mounted it in the ceiling above the screen. Problem was, it only had about 10' of range, and from the sitting position, the remote was about 11' away. Since the receiver for the old Niles unit was a full single gang box, I needed an alternative. I wanted full IR control of my equipment, even if I was going to run z-wave to control it later. So I bought a cheap ($30) unit on Amazon and mounted the eye on a blank plate. It has about 30' of range now, way more than I need. The blasters have to be dead on the receiver eye on the equipment in the other room, but it works way better.
With flat red paint on the walls and flat black on the ceiling and the remote eye figured out, I could assemble the new 120" screen!
I ended up with a silver ticket screen, and while the clips to stretch it were easy, there isn't one thing I prefer over the Elite Screen I had before. The screen itself is equal to the Elite Screen, but the frame and mounting setup is not nearly as good. However, once it was finally up I saw there was a half inch gap between the screen and wall. That got me to thinking about lighting. So I researched and found a z-wave RGBW controller and went ahead and ordered up 30m of RGBW strip LED and a 12v power supply that could do 100+ watts.
I pulled the screen down and on the back of the frame it looked like the perfect place to attach the strips. I used a hot glue gun to attach them because the adhesive on this kind of strip LED always sucks. I got the screen back up and ... it was horrible. Only a tiny bit of light bled out from the sides. Then I tried spacing the screen another 1/2" out and it still was not what I wanted. So I started over the next day with strips of 1/2" baltic birch. I mounted them about 1.5" smaller than the frame size and attached the LED strips to the outside edge. Here is a pic: (this is one of those pics where you can see the HORRIBLE mudding job I did 15 years ago.. lol)
Then I hung the screen and it was exactly what I had hoped for:
Red, about 20% output:
With the zwave controller (Fibaro, expensive but cool) and a plugin for my Vera z-wave controller, I was able to set any color, or even go pure white (both white LED's and the RGB white). Here are a couple shots:
Blue 100% output:
Purple with old ceiling lights up full:
So with the projector up (LOVE that projector), the screen up, the walls painted, and detail work complete (for now), I had to re-do the acoustic treatments. The wider screen meant I didn't have a full 24" on each side of the screen. So the 2 24"x36" treatments I had wouldn't work.. BUT, while all this was going on, I also was doing a lot of testing at night, and I found that corner bass traps did a LOT for the midrange nulls from room issues if I placed the left and right speakers about 20 inches in front of them. I learned this by stacking 2 of my 2" treatments in the corners behind each. So I decided to build corner traps. I had a few 2'x4' pieces of OC703 left and 4 2'x4' units I had already made. I got back into the shop and started building.
First, I built frames:
Then I meticulously cut about a million pieces with angles on them to stack up and make up 6" deep of the trap. These are 64" tall because they go from the floor to the top level of the 3'x4' treatments that are on the wall at ear level to the left and right of the MLP. These sit on the floor though, where those hang 18" up to avoid outlets. It so happened I had exactly 64" of DMD fabric left (and of the dust fabric for the backs). In fact, I couldn't believe how perfect it all worked out, almost like I had planned it, even though I just over ordered DMD and OC703 when I first started.
Once I got both stacks in, I used a full sheet of OC703 and cut 45 degree angles on it and dropped it in place. It makes for 8" deep of OC703. The face is 24" wide. I wrapped them with DMD and put the dust cloth on back to keep the fiberglass where it belongs.
I topped them off with a solid cherry shelf on top (cut in the triangle shape to fill the whole top), and used heavy duty velcro to attach them to the wall so they don't wobble or lean away at all..
Now, with the couch on the shorter wall, I couldn't use my end tables (that used to be subwoofers, lol). I had about 10" on each end, and I wanted to add more cherry to the room, so after thinking about it for a few days, I decided to model them after the speaker stands. Simple to build, solid and stable, and they look pretty good too. Some PVC, sand, poplar bases, some flat black paint, attach the cherry to the top and shoot 4 coats of satin lacquer and boom, end tables:
They weigh about 25 lbs each, lol.
No pics of the next step, but I had to order some black trim for the can lights. It took some looking, but I found some that converted my cans to airtight, allowing me to use Par38 bulbs. I went with 92watt equivalent, which were still over twice the output of the old 65w par30's I used before. Even with dark walls and carpet the room can get brighter than it was with off-white walls and carpet... And the black trim came out really nice.
Finally the day came: carpet day! Woot!
I watched over the installer's shoulder as he laid down the best pad money can buy (soft and squirshy) along with a nice quality black carpet. I just wanted something super comfortable and nice looking that would disappear when the lights went down. This stuff does it perfectly. In bright enough light it has a slight purple tint, not as bad as the paper cones in the DIYSG speakers, but still looks fantastic in the room. It is dark enough that now my dark charcoal tile around the fireplace looks like light gray!
And once the carpet was down, I got to work installing floor trim, painted flat black of course. I also got busy hanging treatments back up and getting wires all ready to go... Also on the right corner there is now a wall plate with 3 jacks: a 3.5mm for the audyssey mic, an HDMI for laptop or console game, and a USB for the DSP in the iNuke 6000dsp. This way I can just plug in and do adjustments without having to pull those cables through the wall.
I snapped pics of the room before speakers and furniture went back in... The red doesn't look quite right now that the camera has to compensate for the darker room. It does have a slight tint of orange, but overall is a nice dark red that goes perfect with the black. Not fire engine or bright red at all. The fireplace pic above is the closest representation of it, the ones below just don't do it justice:
After a couple hours of reassembling couches and placing speakers, it was all done! Here are the final pics:
I still have some alterations in mind. I spent a day dialing the subs in perfectly flat then doing my best to place the left and right and center to get the best possible sound. I am planning to replace a couple of the treatments with diffusion (thinking BAD diffusers over the top of the OC703 behind the posters), and now that I am more or less done, I have an itch to upgrade the LCR's to maybe 1099's.. I didn't have the room before, but now that it is flipped, I could do that.. not for more output (it can go louder than I can stand and still be crystal clear) but rather to add some depth to the midbass.. that is the weak point now.
I am not terribly fond of the brown couches now, and the loveseat might go completely since it adds just a little too much absorption on the right side (and would cover part of a 1099 if i decided to go that way)... I want to order up some theater seating, but there isn't anywhere to test it out around here (Billings, MT), so I am in the early planning stages of either a short trip to California or to Phoenix to find some places to sit in some different brands and styles and find what I like. I don't want to order a heavy couch and get it, assemble it, and sit in it only to go "ugh, this sucks" and end up paying $500 to ship it back. I am looking at the seatcraft Grenada right now as I like the look, but until I can sit in some seats, I will stick to my triple recliner couch for now...
The tops of the subs are satin finish and being literally at the edge of the screen, they reflect a little light, so I also plan to get some velvet cloth and drape it over the subs. With the screen so low they no longer tuck under the screen like they were designed to do, so I might just rebuild them.. with the extra width I am contemplating doing ported enclosures instead of sealed, just building them twice as wide... decisions decisions...
That's it for now, I hope you enjoyed the pics! A BIG thanks to all the people who post here, I couldn't (and wouldn't) have done it if I hadn't seen some of the stuff you shared and given me incentive to "up my game"..
One more note, just days after completion, I was able to buy the new Star Wars movie on blu-ray and watch it... The movie that inspired me to upgrade (and ended up costing me about $8k more than I wanted to spend, lol) ended up being one of the first movies I viewed after completion. It was worth every penny!