Smart door lock for theater? - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 17 Old 04-24-2016, 01:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Smart door lock for theater?

I'm looking for a smart door lock that integrates with my network and phone. Ideally it can sense my phone and unlock. Fingerprint and/or keycode would be nice too. This page has some decent looking offerings: http://www.safewise.com/blog/finding...for-your-home/ .

Wondering if anyone has first-hand experience with smart locks and what works well. Thanks!
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post #2 of 17 Old 04-24-2016, 01:47 PM
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I don't trust those wifi-enabled smart locks...if the thing breaks or your wifi is down, you're locked out. If you want to be able to lock the door and not have to deal with a key, you could get a door lock with an electronic keypad on it. Lockable and no need for a key.
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post #3 of 17 Old 04-24-2016, 01:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelddd View Post
I don't trust those wifi-enabled smart locks...if the thing breaks or your wifi is down, you're locked out. If you want to be able to lock the door and not have to deal with a key, you could get a door lock with an electronic keypad on it. Lockable and no need for a key.
Yes. However some (most?) of the smart locks and a physical key override.

I'm open to suggestions for what locks people have used and liked of all types. Thanks.
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post #4 of 17 Old 04-25-2016, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post
Yes. However some (most?) of the smart locks and a physical key override.

I'm open to suggestions for what locks people have used and liked of all types. Thanks.
I have used this combo lock on my HT door for 3 or 4 years, and like it. You can have two codes. I see there are $400 touch pad lock now ;-)

http://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-SmartC.../dp/B002AQNT4Q

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post #5 of 17 Old 04-25-2016, 01:17 PM
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I use #6 on your linked list there (Schlage Camelot) and have it setup on my home automation system. (Vera) I have this setup for my main entry door though, and do not have it setup to automatically open. You could use geofencing with your phone for this, but would probably not be safe in my application.

Instead I can unlock/lock remotely, setup temporary passcodes (time window use), and perform actions when unlocked. (Turn on lights, turn off alarm system, greet user, etc.)

Works well, but can't speak to durability. I have had it a couple years, but replaced once under warranty. You will get indications of battery life, and the battery lasts longer than you'd expect.

Anyways, you will likely have better feedback in the appropriate sub-forum.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/162-home-automation/
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post #6 of 17 Old 03-01-2017, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by michaelddd View Post
I don't trust those wifi-enabled smart locks...if the thing breaks or your wifi is down, you're locked out. If you want to be able to lock the door and not have to deal with a key, you could get a door lock with an electronic keypad on it. Lockable and no need for a key.
@michaelddd I completely understand where you're coming from and honestly I used to feel the same way too. I still feel the same way about a majority of smart locks on the market because I believe that there are still many flaws that have to be overcome before these locks become a viable security measure. I think most people get a smart lock for the convenience and the bragging rights of being futuristic, rather than for the basic function of keeping your doors locked and secure.

If i'm being completely honest, I used to think that way too and I was lured into buying a smart lock because I thought it would be cool to unlock my door from my smartphone (don't judge me). It wasn't until after I started using it that I realized it was the most insecure lock I had ever come across, and many other people were echoing their mistrust of the original Kwikset Kevo. It was the search for another smart lock that really opened my eyes to pay attention to the security features and other pertinent features. This is why I look for locks that have backup power capabilities so that my home isn't left exposed when there is a power outage or when the WiFi cuts out. I think this article sums it up: http://united-locksmith.net/blog/7-e...g-a-smart-lock

Hopefully, OP takes all necessary factors into consideration when they end up choosing the smart door lock for the theater because security will be important. Especially because all the equipment in a home theater is pretty expensive.

Last edited by TateStone; 03-01-2017 at 05:11 PM.
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post #7 of 17 Old 03-06-2017, 11:07 AM
 
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Locks only keep honest people out. Even the wimpiest of men can kick a door open in 1 try. I would consider an alarm system personally. There are some great wireless options available these days.
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post #8 of 17 Old 03-06-2017, 11:21 AM
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First - assuming your theater has no windows, how would a burglar know to target that room in the first place. And if a thief really has enough time and capacity to steal gear out of a home theater setup, you've got bigger issues and all that interior lock is going to do is increase the amount of damage to the house. As drunkpenguin said, if they want in that room, they'll go through the door. Or the drywall.

I give the same advice to folks who ask about the security brackets on TV mounts for "outdoor TVs" - don't use them. If someone is already in your yard/patio/house with intent to steal a TV - they're going to rip it off the wall, and they don't care what damage they do. You're better off letting them carry off the $200 TV and not cause $500 worth of damage to your house!

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post #9 of 17 Old 03-06-2017, 12:06 PM
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I can see the desire for a locked theater/equipment room when the kids play in the basement with their friends unsupervised.
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post #10 of 17 Old 03-06-2017, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
I can see the desire for a locked theater/equipment room when the kids play in the basement with their friends unsupervised.
Oh, agreed. My theater door is lockable for the same reason (although I haven't had to use it). I didn't mean that one shouldn't install a locking door - just that doing it solely to prevent theft of gear was probably pointless or worse...

There was another thread like this a few years back, and someone smartly commented (maybe it was you, BIG?) that if they were a thief, alone in someone's house, and came across a keypad-locked door, they'd absolutely break into that room.

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post #11 of 17 Old 03-06-2017, 01:48 PM
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Part of this depends on how you "really" want to unlock. If you want to recognize bluetooth connection from phone, there are a few that cover it like the Kwikset Kevo. I'd definitely lean towards models that still have a key funtion as well unless there's another inside entrance or the like. The downside of the bluetooth models is they work on detection alone, so anyone holding your phone could get in. If you can live with something that takes a little more input, look for something like one of the Yale Real Living locks with either Z-Wave or Zigbee, and combine with a controller. Samsung Smartthings is fairly cheap (and has a decent online community for customization and support). I use the Yale locks on my house, integrated to my alarm system, have been very happy with them. I can lock/unlock from the app, or use the code.

I actually use the SmartThings for my theater automation (it doesn't control the door locks or devices that my alarm does), and find it pretty easy to work with. You could easily set up a door lock with that, and have it either a) use the app to unlock meaning the person would need not only your phone, but how to get into your phone (assuming you lock it in some manner) or b) automatically unlock the door when it detects your phone on the wifi. That latter of course means any time you're home the thing would be unlocked.

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post #12 of 17 Old 03-06-2017, 02:06 PM
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there is a cautionary tale in my Curve Frenzy project. Outward opening door, fingerprint activated door lock. Theater owner decided to really tighten up the adjustable acoustic door seals. Was demoing his theater and the mechanism sheared off a pin inside the lock because of the resistance, You couldn't open the door by turning the knob in the theater or the one outside. The locksmith had to do some surgery to release the prisoners.
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post #13 of 17 Old 03-06-2017, 02:09 PM
 
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
there is a cautionary tale in my Curve Frenzy project. Outward opening door, fingerprint activated door lock. Theater owner decided to really tighten up the adjustable acoustic door seals. Was demoing his theater and the mechanism sheared off a pin inside the lock because of the resistance, You couldn't open the door by turning the knob in the theater or the one outside. The locksmith had to do some surgery to release the prisoners.
So they were locked inside? Scary!

I built my theater when I built my house and I designed the room with no windows obviously. This is a ground floor room, not a basement. The idea of having only one way out scared me into adding a 2nd door that exits to the outside. That door has always been a nuisance trying to work around it, but I feel better having it there "just in case".
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post #14 of 17 Old 03-06-2017, 03:02 PM
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Locks only keep honest people out. Even the wimpiest of men can kick a door open in 1 try. I would consider an alarm system personally. There are some great wireless options available these days.
Well, it's true that if you want actual security you have to fit security doors, in a solid frame, with walls that aren't thin drywall. For my under-construction HT I've ordered steel doors with wood veneer, seven-point locking, steel frame attached directly to 8 inch reinforced concrete walls. That's an entrance door for the upper level, a locking interior door to the stairwell, and I'm planning a stainless steel sliding fire door at the bottom of the stairwell (non-locking). It won't stop someone with a gas-powered angle grinder, but you can force them to plan ahead and then spend half an hour doing a very noisy break-in.

Single exit is generally not allowed for basements in the UK. For the HT I had to add a fire escape that goes to an exterior trapdoor (basically a closet with a ladder in it). The trapdoor is also thick steel with multi-point locking and no exterior handle or keyhole. Most basements get away with a window in a light well, and an emergency hammer to smash it.
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Last edited by bitphase; 03-06-2017 at 03:06 PM.
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post #15 of 17 Old 03-06-2017, 03:06 PM
 
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Originally Posted by bitphase View Post
Well, it's true that if you want actual security you have to fit security doors, in a solid frame, with walls that aren't thin drywall. For my under-construction HT I've ordered steel doors with wood veneer, seven-point locking, steel frame attached directly to 8 inch reinforced concrete walls. That's an entrance door for the upper level, a locking interior door to the stairwell, and I'm planning a stainless steel sliding fire door at the bottom of the stairwell (non-locking). It won't stop someone with a gas-powered angle grinder, but you can force them to plan ahead and then spend half an hour doing a very noisy break-in.
You sir, have won this conversation! I would love to have a house that secure, but I settled for a barking dog and a raging temper that comes out of me like the hulk when someone tries to mess with my stuff!

Seriously though, those doors sound awesome!
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post #16 of 17 Old 03-06-2017, 03:43 PM
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bitphase our current codes here require two ways out of the basement. The stairway and one emergency exit or door. The emergency exit can be a window but there is a maximum height requirement for the widow sill and a minimum size requirement. The best is a walk out basement on a sloped lot. The only rooms which requires two exits are bedrooms which each must have a backup. A bedroom exit can support all the other rooms in the basement like a theater.
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post #17 of 17 Old 03-06-2017, 03:51 PM
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bitphase our current codes here require two ways out of the basement.
I think the UK is stricter in that every 'inhabited room' has to have its own fire exit. That's basically everything except hallways, toilets and closets. I am kind of pushing it by having the bar area for my theatre not having its own exit, but the pocket sliding doors aren't on the plans and if an inspector visited I'd just dog them open and pretend it was one space with archways.
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