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post #1 of 148 Old 07-06-2016, 03:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Arrakis Theater Build

Trying to come up with a unique theater name is for the birds. That said, i chose something from my favorite childhood movie, "Dune". This is the second time I have remodeled the room. The first time was done with the thought of having a theater/pool room. The pool table never left the garage until it was time to find a new home .


Old Theater - Original: 3/1/2013




I ended up selling this TV days before Seahawk/Patriot superbowl (perfect time to sell a big screen TV!) and purchased my first projector. In order to make things work in time for the Super Bowl I switch the layout around and painted the back wall white. I was finished with 45 minutes to spare. GO HAWKS!


Updated Old Theater - Room Flip: 2/1/2015




Over the past few years I have been chasing the bass monster (tactile response) but sadly I'm located in a daylight basement on a slab of concrete. After building 4 SI HT18 subs and not achieving what I was hoping to achieve I started playing around with decoupled platforms.


Platform on horse mat rubber chunks:




This change was enough to convince me that I needed to remodel the room once more. So here we are! My first build thread. I put together a layout in excel (sometimes you have to use what you know). The speaker layout isn't set in stone. Here's what I have so far (White Oaks Cinema info layout). I'll try to give credit if I remember where I gleamed/plagiarized info/ideas from. I will say that the White Oaks theater is the driving force for this build. It was documented so well that it made the project feel less daunting. That said...this will be unique in the obstacles I'll have to work around (subfloor/window/slider).

Room Information:
Theater dimensions: 18.5' x 26'
Ceilings: 8' 9"
OSB/drywall

Equipment List

Speakers
Front and Center Speakers: DIYSG 1099
Wide, Side and Back Surrounds: (6-8) Volt 10's
In Ceiling Atmos Speakers: (4) Volt 10's
Subwoofers: (8) Stereo Integrity HT-18's in sealed enclosures

AV Electronics - Home Theater
LCRWS Amps: (1) Sherbourn PA 7-350
Sub Amps: (2) Inuke 6000DSP
S2,SB & Atmos: A/V Receiver
A/V Receiver: Denon AVR-X7200WA

Sources
OPPO 203
Roku Premiere Plus
Charter Cable Box
PS3

Projector and Screen
Projector: Sony HW40ES JVC DLA-X750r
Screen: DIY Center Stage XD 2:1 144" x 73"

Seating
Chairs: (7) Fusion Escape (may be adding 2 more?)

Smart Home Equipment
Insteon Hub
Logitech Hub
Amazon Echo

Lighting
18 - 4" cans in soffit with gimbal & LED MR16 bulb
RGBW LED Strips - behind crown molding
RGBW LED Strips - Under riser edge and stairs

Rack
DIY in-wall (inspired by YW84U's incredible DIY rack)


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post #2 of 148 Old 07-06-2016, 03:03 PM - Thread Starter
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post #3 of 148 Old 07-06-2016, 04:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Demo time. I was originally going to leave the walls as they were but the framing wasn't ideal so I decided to pull the walls also and add a layer of OSB for ease of hanging moving forward.








Came across a lovely split in my joist. We found out we had hardwood under the carpet upstairs and during the refinishing phase we had to move everything in the kitchen and living room into our back two rooms (right above this room). We had a fridge in our bedroom along with a pantry and couches all sitting over this joist area. So between the weight of that stuff and the bass checks I'm guessing this stress crack happened.

We ended up sistering the joist using PL, clamps, nails and screws.
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post #4 of 148 Old 07-06-2016, 04:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Door, AV Rack, and another Door

Solid core door installed. Door next to my AV rack location was too big so I had to remove it. Luckily I had a pre-hung door in the garage (came with the house) that wasn't being used and was a bit narrower!





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post #5 of 148 Old 07-06-2016, 05:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Subfloor, Framing Windows, Slider

The subfloor is 2x4 sleepers sitting on 3/4" rubber squares. I attached 3/4" T&G OSB to the sleepers using subfloor glue and 2" ring shank nails. The rubber is spaced every 16" around the perimeter and under the riser, 18" under the front row and stage. Everything else is 24" spacing. This will hopefully allow the floor to float a little more than the carpet on concrete .

My plan for the window and slider is either a removable insulated plug or a hinged insulated plug. Otherwise all that has happened is I put in some R19 in the ceiling and R13 in the non-exterior wall, put up a layer of OSB and drywall, removed a gas insert and covered the hole with sheet rock (I may open it back up and stuff with some insulation if it is beneficial.







I am using the old carpet pad to hold the rubber squares in place and PL gluing them to the sleeper.






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post #6 of 148 Old 07-06-2016, 05:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viruscwu View Post

The rubber on both sides of this sleeper was due to the riser's edge ending right here. We laid 2x4 sleepers between the runs. It was going to need more support and this was my solution.

Last edited by Viruscwu; 07-11-2016 at 09:32 AM.
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post #7 of 148 Old 07-06-2016, 05:34 PM - Thread Starter
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All caught up as of 7/5/2016

2x12 riser and 2x8 stage









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post #8 of 148 Old 07-06-2016, 08:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Riser

I'm wondering if I should decouple the riser from the subfloor. How much would that affect the front row?
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post #9 of 148 Old 07-11-2016, 12:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Riser, Stage, Soffit

Got the riser done! Decoupled, stuffed, double layered 3/4'' OSB with roofing felt between (already had it). Stage is 90% done. Soffit is started.







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post #10 of 148 Old 07-11-2016, 12:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Soffit Issue

I ran into a couple issues with the soffit layout. With my atmos speakers positioned where they are I had to shrink the soffit attached to the support beam. Not a bit deal in the end. The bigger issue is on the other half of the room. I only have ~6" above the door so I can't continue my 8" soffit in front of the door. I can make that whole side 6" (as outlined in red below) which should look fine. The only problem is I planned on putting LED strip lighting behind crown molding on the inner side of the soffit.

I could have the crown start at the bottom of my 6" soffit and continue that line around my 8" soffits also (2" above the bottom).

Any suggestions?

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post #11 of 148 Old 07-11-2016, 12:51 PM
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Great progress!

-Aaron
English Way Cinema and Bar - moving on to v3.0... projector time in 2017!
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post #12 of 148 Old 07-11-2016, 01:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Great progress!
Thank you! I'm hoping to be done by the end of the month. Most of the way done at least lol.
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post #13 of 148 Old 07-12-2016, 02:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Hoping to get some opinions...any foreseeable issues with my column/speaker layout?
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post #14 of 148 Old 07-13-2016, 08:37 AM
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Sub'd. I am in the planning stages for a very similar sized theater and I am doing almost the same speaker setup (volt 6 for sides/atmos, a 6300 receiver, 1299 for the LCR and 2 full martys). I look forward to seeing how it comes along, good luck! Could you explain more about what benefits you saw from decoupling the floor? I will also be on a cement slab, but no upstairs above me.
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post #15 of 148 Old 07-13-2016, 09:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Sub'd. I am in the planning stages for a very similar sized theater and I am doing almost the same speaker setup (volt 6 for sides/atmos, a 6300 receiver, 1299 for the LCR and 2 full martys). I look forward to seeing how it comes along, good luck! Could you explain more about what benefits you saw from decoupling the floor? I will also be on a cement slab, but no upstairs above me.
That will be a great setup! I decoupled my floors to increase the tactile response from my subs (which is nil on slab concrete). You would think the upstairs was possessed during bass scenes and in the theater you would hardly know anything was happening. You get some shaking from your seating (resonating frequency?) but it is very minimal compared to a floating subfloor.

So I ran some nearfield tests both on a decoupled riser and off (on slab) and the difference was enough for me to give up the 3" needed for my decoupled floor. I had 8'9" to start with so 3 inches wasn't the end of the world for me.

I'll be testing the floor this week...to see how well this translated (floating riser to full floating floor).
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post #16 of 148 Old 07-13-2016, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viruscwu View Post
I could have the crown start at the bottom of my 6" soffit and continue that line around my 8" soffits also (2" above the bottom).

Any suggestions?
I wonder if it might look a bit funny having 3 walls with some of the soffit below the crown and some flush... what about 3" up on the three walls and 1" up on the short wall? I can't really visualize which would look better.

Great looking room, I'm sure the new theatre is going to be amazing.


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My DIYSG HTM-12 build
My dual sealed UXL-18 build
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post #17 of 148 Old 07-13-2016, 10:50 AM - Thread Starter
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I wonder if it might look a bit funny having 3 walls with some of the soffit below the crown and some flush... what about 3" up on the three walls and 1" up on the short wall? I can't really visualize which would look better.
Yeah I'm in the same boat...trying to visualize what will look better. I'm almost wondering if I forgo the 6" soffit above the door and take my 8" soffit up to the entry and terminate the lighting something like the picture below.



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post #18 of 148 Old 07-13-2016, 10:58 AM
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Wow, that's really nice.

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My DIYSG HTM-12 build
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post #19 of 148 Old 07-13-2016, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
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Yeah I'm in the same boat...trying to visualize what will look better. I'm almost wondering if I forgo the 6" soffit above the door and take my 8" soffit up to the entry and terminate the lighting something like the picture below.
I'm in a similar position as well. I was working with a pretty short ceiling to begin with, so my soffit only drops 8" from the ceiling. However, in my theater there's a window behind the screen (that needed to stay for a multitude of reasons), so the center channel is above, and the shelf hangs about 9.5-10" down. So when I finish the soffit facing, I'm going to have to figure out how to work the offset.

Remember, no matter where you go... You're not where you were anymore.

HJ Movie House Build Thread
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post #20 of 148 Old 07-13-2016, 12:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I'm in a similar position as well. I was working with a pretty short ceiling to begin with, so my soffit only drops 8" from the ceiling. However, in my theater there's a window behind the screen (that needed to stay for a multitude of reasons), so the center channel is above, and the shelf hangs about 9.5-10" down. So when I finish the soffit facing, I'm going to have to figure out how to work the offset.
I understand having to keep an inconvenient window in a home theater . Are you also putting light strips in the soffit? If not, check out this build, swapping his projector for your center channel.

Center Channel Option
post #65 and #73
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post #21 of 148 Old 07-13-2016, 02:00 PM
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I understand having to keep an inconvenient window in a home theater . Are you also putting light strips in the soffit? If not, check out this build, swapping his projector for your center channel.

Center Channel Option
post #65 and #73
Yep, will have light strips. I figure I can either hang a bit beneath the side soffits and have a light strip across, or start even, have the small drop where the speaker is, and don't have light strip in front of speaker.

Remember, no matter where you go... You're not where you were anymore.

HJ Movie House Build Thread
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post #22 of 148 Old 07-14-2016, 09:08 AM - Thread Starter
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AV Rack

I made some progress on my DIY AV rack. Painted my shelving and inner trim. I also purchased some hard board that I'll paint black to use as face plates. I played around with the layout a bit. I like the look of the AVR being lower but not the functionality.

I also received my screen yesterday! I still have to build a frame for it though.







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post #23 of 148 Old 07-14-2016, 12:15 PM
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Rack looks nice.
I'd really like to redo the shelf area in my room and put a DIY rack in there that can roll out... a project for the future

-Aaron
English Way Cinema and Bar - moving on to v3.0... projector time in 2017!
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post #24 of 148 Old 07-14-2016, 12:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Rack looks nice.
I'd really like to redo the shelf area in my room and put a DIY rack in there that can roll out... a project for the future
Thank you...it's a start! I wanted to have access to it from inside the theater but with cinder blocks all behind every wall I figured this was my best option. A roll out rack is a very nice option .
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post #25 of 148 Old 07-14-2016, 01:50 PM
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Looking great! I love your naming, although I have to say I am looking around for a sandworm or two somewhere in your decor.
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post #26 of 148 Old 07-14-2016, 02:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Looking great! I love your naming, although I have to say I am looking around for a sandworm or two somewhere in your decor.
Lol, I'm guessing the concrete slab is keeping my worm sign to a minimum.
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post #27 of 148 Old 07-18-2016, 01:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Soffit Over Door Solution

I decided to keep the majority of the soffit at 8" and terminate the crown into the door wall on both sides of the door. This will give me some lighting above the door which will be nice to have!




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post #28 of 148 Old 07-18-2016, 01:45 PM - Thread Starter
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AV Rack

Most of my weekend was spent running wires and/or terminating them. I got everything roughly organized. Cable management will need a bit more time to look like a finished product.











I made some headway on the face plates. After messing up two cuts in a row I called it a night. The next morning I decided to start over with 1/8'' masonite...there wasn't enough hard board to finish the job. I got the bottom half dry fitted and will paint everything black tonight.











Trying to decide whether or not to cut a small hole above my receiver to put the Harmony hub or make a small cut next to the PS3 for its final home.

CURRENT:



OPTION 2:


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post #29 of 148 Old 07-19-2016, 09:54 AM
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Nice work, I'm pretty intimidated thinking about running and bundling all the various cables. Yours looks great so far.

I like the hub where it is, it keeps the panel sleeker.

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post #30 of 148 Old 07-19-2016, 10:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OJ Bartley View Post
Nice work, I'm pretty intimidated thinking about running and bundling all the various cables. Yours looks great so far.

I like the hub where it is, it keeps the panel sleeker.

Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk
Thank you for your input! I'm with you on keeping the hub where it is at. Cabling is definitely a chore. I made the mistake of not labeling the five runs to the front stage. Much easier to label as your run each line vs having to do the battery test afterwards.
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