Rapture Home Theater - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 88 Old 08-11-2016, 01:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Rapture Home Theater




"Would you kindly enjoy the show?"


INTRO
Welcome to my 2nd Home Theater build. My first one was in a prefinished room with no special care given to isolation or acoustics. We recently moved to a new house with a completely unfinished basement. This thread will be used to track progress and hopefully have discussions on design decisions.


PLANS
The unfinished space I have to work with. Major design dictated by egress window on the bottom of this image which the guest bedroom will utilize.


Planned layout I came up with.





CONSTRUCTION DESIGN DECISIONS
1. Planning staggered stud walls between bedroom/theater room and furnace/theater room. All other walls are external poured concrete walls with standard 2x4 stud construction.
2. Wife is not concerned with isolation. I think that's a mistake so pending cost I am planning the following in order of priority to me.
a. DD+GG on ceiling *almost guaranteed to happen
b. OSB-GG-Drywall on side walls, priority on interior walls. *most likely going to happen
c. Decouple side walls from ceiling with RSIC type clips. *might happen, pending expense of clips, ease of install, and if it will help much without clips for ceiling.
d. Whisper clips/hat channel *Probably not going to happen due to expense and loss of ceiling height (94" pre finished)
3. Solid core doors for bottom of stairs and leading to hallway of basement.
4. Side walls with MDF/Trim/Shallow columns.




EQUIPMENT (vastly subject to change)
1. 7.2.4 Atmos.
2. Two 18" subs powered by iNuke amp (SI DS4, iNuke 3000dsp).
3. AVR with Atmos/DTSX capability, most likely to require additional amps for atmos (Pioneer SC-95).
4. Upgraded speakers over my current Infinity's. (DIYsoundgroup 893s with Volt 6s, SVS Prime, Elac Debut, Elac UniFi, KEF Q Series, etc).
5. Epson Pro Cinema 9500UB (Currently own and plan to use for a while longer).
6. Screen will be Seymour at screen material. Size undetermined ATM (pending riser height).
7. Seating, two rows of 3 theater style seats.




QUESTIONS AND CONCERNS
1. Plumbing rough ins, which ones to use, want full bathroom. Most likely stage 2 after bedroom and theater room is complete.
2. HVAC, large square duct requires soffit which I could be okay with. Soffit cannot encompass whole room due to ceiling height (specifically by the landing from stairs).
3. HVAC, cooling concerns with only 2 vents in the entire basement. 1 in theater room, 1 in hallway. Need at least 1 in bedroom, 1 in bathroom, prefer an additional one in theater room. Questions on capacity of current system. Requires professional help I think.
4. Riser concerns. If 8" high will be enough and extend the riser the entire width of the room and step down for first row, or if I'm going to have to leave a walk way after leaving the landing of the stairs and just make the riser not as wide.
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post #2 of 88 Old 08-11-2016, 01:08 PM - Thread Starter
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INDEX OF PROGRESS

9/11/2016 - How to use Clips+Hat channel without losing ceiling height




INDEX OF PRICING
8/26/2016 - Decoupling Clips - $370
9/24/2016 - Studs, Top Plates, Bottom Plates, Drywall, OSB, Nails, Screws - $1461
9/26/2016 - Rigid foam insulation, loctite for insulation, hat channel - $551
9/26/2016 - Palliser Pacifico, row of 4 (used) - $750

Last edited by slarity; 09-26-2016 at 12:35 PM.
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post #3 of 88 Old 08-11-2016, 01:15 PM - Thread Starter
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The definition of Rapture is very fitting for a theater.



I am currently working on two small house projects before I can really dive into the basement here. (Shelf in garage, Small patio next to deck for grill).
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post #4 of 88 Old 08-11-2016, 01:21 PM
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Come on. Build something already!




Just kidding. Thought I would just jump in here and be the first post... Subscribed too.
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post #5 of 88 Old 08-11-2016, 01:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post
Come on. Build something already!




Just kidding. Thought I would just jump in here and be the first post... Subscribed too.

What's the status of yours? Surly its made progress since 2011. Your room is very similar to dimensions to mine. Curious what type of sound isolation you got without the decoupled ceiling as I am planning on the same thing due to the same reason (low ceiling height).

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post #6 of 88 Old 08-11-2016, 01:38 PM
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1. Plumbing always, and i mean always, takes 3 trips to the hardware store. <good luck.> Get a plumber. then you know your permitting will be done right.
2. Soffits are good, as long as they perform a function. HVAC, or lighting. if you have one, make sure it's treated. put some Dennis Erskine recommendations to it.
3. HVAC systems. Get a Pro to come in and re-design it. You definitely don't want to have to rework that after the fact. also, it will be properly permitted as well.
4. Use the Riser Calculator. Definitely will help you get design parameters outlined for riser height, and screen placement.
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post #7 of 88 Old 08-11-2016, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slarity View Post
What's the status of yours? Surly its made progress since 2011. Your room is very similar to dimensions to mine. Curious what type of sound isolation you got without the decoupled ceiling as I am planning on the same thing due to the same reason (low ceiling height).

Yeah, yeah, yeah... My build thread (housed elsewhere) is fairly up to date, my cheesy website, not so much. :-) Besides, if I say that the room is "done" then I will never be able to add anything or update it...

UPDATE: Oh wait, you actually asked a question, and I didn't respond. Oops.
Somewhere buried in my build thread, I documented the decoupling solution that still maximizes ceiling height. It came from The Soundproofing Company, so all credit goes to them... Let me dig it up and post it here when I find it.

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post #8 of 88 Old 08-11-2016, 01:46 PM
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Found it... This way you only loose 1/2" more than the drywall was going to be itself instead of about 2-3 inches if attaching the clips and hat channel directly to the ceiling joists.
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post #9 of 88 Old 08-11-2016, 01:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post
Found it... This way you only loose 1/2" more than the drywall was going to be itself instead of about 2-3 inches if attaching the clips and hat channel directly to the ceiling joists.

That's a neat way of doing that. Did you end up going that route? Space wasn't my only concern, cost is as well. Especially since my wife doesn't want me to spend money on the isolation. She thinks two layers of drywall and green glue is dumb.
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post #10 of 88 Old 08-11-2016, 01:54 PM
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post #11 of 88 Old 08-11-2016, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slarity View Post
That's a neat way of doing that. Did you end up going that route? Space wasn't my only concern, cost is as well. Especially since my wife doesn't want me to spend money on the isolation. She thinks two layers of drywall and green glue is dumb.
I did, and it worked well.

I have a video sort of showing it (ignore the heavy breathing, LOL) just jump to 2:35 in the video, and go to about 3:50 if you aren't bored by then:

Cost was a big concern for me too. I was just going to go with extra Green Glue for the ceiling, but it was when I called and talked to John at The Soundproofing Company, he told me how little it would actually cost to do it. You buy the hat channel locally for like $3.50 or so for 12 feet of it. WhisperClips were just under $2 each for the 52 that I bought.

So when I bought two 5-gallon pails of Green Glue, a Speed Loader, and added shipping, it was $495. The clips added $108, and I don't recall how much hat channel I needed. Nothing was over 12 feet so that helped. Maybe $50 or a little more for hat channel. So about $650 instead of just under $500, but I knew that I was getting a LOT better sound isolation for the ceiling.

Our bedroom is right about the space, and while I can't watch a movie at reference level (if it is an action movie) without disrupting upstairs if someone is trying to sleep, I can watch it at reference level with minimal disruption during the day, and at night I just turn it down to the volume level that my wife and kids like it at anyway. LOL
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post #12 of 88 Old 08-11-2016, 04:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Nick. Those prices are considerably cheaper than what I've seen elsewhere. I was thinking I would need a lot more clips than that as well. I may consider it pending prices even remotely to that.

I just picked up 2 sheets of 19/32 OSB, 12 studs, and some joist hangers for my garage shelving. Should be done by Sunday. Decided to wait on patio until next year, so theater room is next! So many questions, so few answers, need to start hiring some professionals to come tell me what I can do, specifically with plumbing, HVAC, and electrical.
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post #13 of 88 Old 08-11-2016, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slarity View Post
Thanks Nick. Those prices are considerably cheaper than what I've seen elsewhere. I was thinking I would need a lot more clips than that as well. I may consider it pending prices even remotely to that.

I just picked up 2 sheets of 19/32 OSB, 12 studs, and some joist hangers for my garage shelving. Should be done by Sunday. Decided to wait on patio until next year, so theater room is next! So many questions, so few answers, need to start hiring some professionals to come tell me what I can do, specifically with plumbing, HVAC, and electrical.
Slarity - I have some good options for hvac and electricians if you need help with the theater. They have been thru the savoy build so they know what they would be getting into.
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post #16 of 88 Old 08-13-2016, 11:25 AM
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Subscribed....should be interesting to see this go. If you are still interested to hear the Elac B6's let me know and we can figure something out.
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post #17 of 88 Old 08-13-2016, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slarity View Post
Thanks Nick. Those prices are considerably cheaper than what I've seen elsewhere. I was thinking I would need a lot more clips than that as well. I may consider it pending prices even remotely to that.
I ended up with the least expensive clips, likely what Nick did as well, and the hat channel... the least expensive clips still do a very comparable job... when I asked the Soundproofing Company (Ted White), about saving a little money by going with less Green Glue, but the 'better' clips, or 'standard green glue' and the less expensive clips, they said definitely the less expensive clips. The decoupling is a big element of soundproofing, so, I would definitely recommend doing that if you can manage to do it. I think for attaching my walls to the ceiling, I used IB-3 clips, don't remember the exact cost, but you don't need a ton of them. I think every 4 feet, and on each side the the door.
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I support this project

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post #19 of 88 Old 08-15-2016, 07:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmhvball View Post
I ended up with the least expensive clips, likely what Nick did as well, and the hat channel... the least expensive clips still do a very comparable job... when I asked the Soundproofing Company (Ted White), about saving a little money by going with less Green Glue, but the 'better' clips, or 'standard green glue' and the less expensive clips, they said definitely the less expensive clips. The decoupling is a big element of soundproofing, so, I would definitely recommend doing that if you can manage to do it. I think for attaching my walls to the ceiling, I used IB-3 clips, don't remember the exact cost, but you don't need a ton of them. I think every 4 feet, and on each side the the door.
I think I've decided to do the decoupling and skip on the double drywall right now. I'll use RSIC-1 clips and hat channel on the ceiling, and RSIC-3 clips for the side walls. I did however, convince my wife today that we do need to spend money on isolation. Here's how I did it... a very temporary setup.




Quote:
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Subscribed....should be interesting to see this go. If you are still interested to hear the Elac B6's let me know and we can figure something out.
Yeah I have a lot of work ahead of me. I absolutely would love to hear the Elacs and even compare them to my Infinitys or the AJ Pioneers if possible. Specifically because I know exactly what the Infinity and AJs sound like. If I enjoyed the Elacs enough it could save me a ton of money. However, I expect my appetite will be bigger than those will fill.

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I support this project
Haha thanks. I wish I had enough funds to do a fully themed theater but it wont be. I'm aiming for a finish similar to the Cinemar or The Savoy in looks.
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Last edited by slarity; 08-15-2016 at 07:04 AM. Reason: Grammer because I always hate the way I word things the first try
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post #20 of 88 Old 08-15-2016, 07:14 AM
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I LOVED this game. This reminds me of the days when I had time to play video games Good times... Good times!

I understand you have to live with a budget, but I would highly recommend soundproofing the space. At least decoupling+DD+GG. If you have hardwoods or tile on the floor above, I'd recommend at least one layer of DW+GG on the back of the floor above as well. It would really suck to build a room and then not get to use it because of the "turn it down" complaint, or (as would have been my case) worrying what the kids could here.


How set are you on this layout? Feels a bit odd going through the theater to get to the rest of the basement spaces, though I suppose it will ultimately depend on the finishes in the room. Also, soundproofing steps, even just the common wall there, can be a challenge. The door in particular.

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post #21 of 88 Old 08-15-2016, 07:22 AM - Thread Starter
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I LOVED this game. This reminds me of the days when I had time to play video games Good times... Good times!

I understand you have to live with a budget, but I would highly recommend soundproofing the space. At least decoupling+DD+GG. If you have hardwoods or tile on the floor above, I'd recommend at least one layer of DW+GG on the back of the floor above as well. It would really suck to build a room and then not get to use it because of the "turn it down" complaint, or (as would have been my case) worrying what the kids could here.


How set are you on this layout? Feels a bit odd going through the theater to get to the rest of the basement spaces, though I suppose it will ultimately depend on the finishes in the room. Also, soundproofing steps, even just the common wall there, can be a challenge. The door in particular.
The wife didn't want to spend any money on isolation. She understands why I want to do it but still doesnt really think its necessary, I think shes crazy. So were meeting in the middle.

The layout is pretty much dictated by the egress window and load bearing bulkhead that runs at the back of the closet left to right in the layout picture. If we weren't concerned with having a 5th true basement I would have loved the theater room where the bedroom is going because it could have been much wider. The only sound isolation I am even remotely concerned with is up. Not concerned about the guest bedroom or anything like that. However I understand that the more sound that gets into that room the more chance there is for it to get upstairs. I was planning a staggered stud wall between the theater room and other rooms in the basement. Ted at soundproofingcompany recommended not to do that and build two independent walls. I'm still unsure of this as I do not want to lose floor space but I might do it anyways.
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post #22 of 88 Old 08-15-2016, 10:03 AM
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I hear you. Unfortunately, the way this tends to go is wife doesn't want to pay for sound proofing then doesn't let you watch movies because they're too loud

Keep in mind that soundproofing sounds getting into your theater is just as important to keeping it from getting out (and into the rest of the house). I'd listen to Ted at the soundproofing company. They won't lead you wrong, and won't try to sell you a bunch of stuff you don't need.

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post #23 of 88 Old 08-15-2016, 11:08 AM
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My SO still thinks it is dumb that I am isolating my theater. She thinks since she is the only other person in the house it doesn't matter to her. She has no idea how loud these speakers will truly be though lol

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post #24 of 88 Old 08-16-2016, 08:30 AM
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My SO still thinks it is dumb that I am isolating my theater. She thinks since she is the only other person in the house it doesn't matter to her. She has no idea how loud these speakers will truly be though lol
My wife took the opposite stance...
She said she doesn't want people in the bar or the living room above the theater to be disturbed by someone watching a movie and vice versa...but since it is just the two of us 90% of the time, I am doing the best I can within a limited budget and calling it good.

I keep confusing my intentions with my abilities.
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post #25 of 88 Old 08-16-2016, 01:08 PM - Thread Starter
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My theater room has chicken pox!


No really, just calculating how many RSIC clips I need for the ceiling. By my count its 62, the calculation they told me was 1 for every 4sqft, which would mean 74. I think I'll order 70.
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post #26 of 88 Old 08-26-2016, 07:58 AM - Thread Starter
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I just ordered 34 IB-3 clips and 70 IB-1 clips from Ted at http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/


I have someone in construction coming over tonight. Hopefully he can give me some solid information on the plumbing and electrical. If not, hiring the professionals is probably the next step.
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post #27 of 88 Old 08-26-2016, 11:04 AM
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Plumbing and electrical isn't really THAT complex. There are a number of rules and guidelines for each and even a "non-professional" like me can not only pass all inspections on the first go around doing all of the work myself, but also hear comments like "This is the cleanest wiring install." and "Very nice. Better than most contractors."

I live in Marion and the city really seems to want people to be successful, so they offer all sorts of tips and tricks for finishing a basement. They have checklists for electrical and other components of finishing that made it really easy. I also picked up a book from my local library (yes, real building, and not the internet) and read through the current codes for plumbing and electrical. I took notes of course.

Along the way, I would come across a question, and I would simply call the city inspector's office and they would answer any question I had.

Not sure about Des Moines though.
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post #28 of 88 Old 09-06-2016, 10:56 AM - Thread Starter
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So we taped out the plan on the floor the other night. Decided I didn't like the extra space behind the stairs where the door to the hallway would face you when watching a movie. Plus @desertdome highly recommended I make my room rectangle. So here is kind of what I am thinking now.



I also drafted up seating distance and viewing angles. This is for a 135" 16:9 screen. I am planning an elaborate masking system that will mask to 2.35:1 from the top and bottom.

Last edited by slarity; 09-07-2016 at 06:37 AM.
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post #29 of 88 Old 09-17-2016, 01:47 PM
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Plumbing is not difficult if you have somebody to guide you through it. If you put up a reasonable diagram I can help you out.

As for HVAC.. While it may be worth having a pro come do the install.. You are 99% likely to get bad advice from them. Thread after thread in this forum tells of improperly designed systems. HVAC contractors simply don't understand how to cool a sealed, dedicated room with 10 people in it. Heck, tell them you want 200fpm at the face of the grill and you will likely get a blank stare. Get your design worked out and then tell the contractor what you want.

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post #30 of 88 Old 09-26-2016, 01:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Construction has officially started!

I get my big order of studs, top/bottom plates, and drywall on Friday.

In the mean time, I picked up my rigid foam insulation for the exterior walls, loctite glue for it, and tyvek tape for the seams.


I test fit my IB-1 clips with the hat channel to ensure I got the right hat channel. Fits perfect!


Torn down the insulation blanket that they had on the exterior walls. This blanket only went half way down the wall for some reason. I will reuse this insulation in interior walls or ceilings that are not part of the theater room.



And here is the seating I purchased.

Last edited by slarity; 09-27-2016 at 06:38 AM.
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