Acoustical Treatments Master Thread - Page 414 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #12391 of 12396 Old 05-13-2019, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdurani View Post
The air gap in the corner behind the panel will help, but three inches of that material will absorb down to a couple hundred Hertz while four inches will get you closer to a hundred hertz. Which means that the bass being absorbed will be from your speakers, above the crossover point, not bass from your subs (the lowest frequencies would require absorption several feet thick).

Also, you'll have to cover significant surface area to have any effect. There is 1,054 square feet of surface area in your room. Your two 7' x 15" panels have 17.5 square feet of surface area. Will covering 1.7% of the surface area of your room have noticeable effect on bass? If you add in your other "bass traps", will it amount to even 5% of the surface area of your room?
Thanks for the reply. I actually have a total 19 panels disbursed across the room. This is about 102 square feet or closer to 10%. The panels range from 1" to 6" as I just added a 6'x2'x6" panel with left of OC rock wool. Most are in the 1-2" thickness and have helped significantly with high and midrange sound.

I also have a large closest to the left of the room to which I have several bags of cellulose insulation in large canvas bags. Cheap experiment that I felt was very beneficial as that closet seemed to have bass that just resonated inside and affected the room. In my opinion, the biggest bang for my buck return on things I have done to perfect and imperfect space.

Think I have done all that I can do short of literally stripping down walls and starting a turn home theater room build. That will not be happening anytime soon!
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post #12392 of 12396 Old 05-14-2019, 05:23 PM
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Final Trial

Beginning to see , or not, the light

big panel, #3 , the other the aforementioned amazon velvet

#3 cleans more easily, has enuf bulk, so no staple point show thru, no 'artifacts" from the double sided tape, less stretch , no edge show thru while tightening for final assembly

(more obvious in the 3rd pic), consistently blacker looking in 2 differently shaded outdoor lighting conditions

nowjust need to check how to use the self tapping panhead screws going thru the velvet and not create a problem- pre-drilling and a slight puncture to start thru

I also scored a 50% off coupon from Joann's , so " only' $10 / yd .
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post #12393 of 12396 Old 05-14-2019, 08:43 PM
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some last thoughts /tips before entering production mode

the mounting holes for each panel laid out and drilled before covering
some panels will take 4, others 6, others 8
keep track of where the holes are-DUH!

I use an icepick to re-find those holes , after covering
poking thru the good side.
that spot i make with a silver sharpie dot that disappears under the panhead,

which have been spray painted- black , of course

i reverse the icepick to the good side try to enlarge the fabric hole

my tests of bare-ass trying to put a 5/32 hole straight thru the fabric- https://www.avsforum.com/forum/image...s/rolleyes.gif
you can do it- but you won't like it.
a few times the fabric twisted up so tight it loosened the keyless chick , pulled out the bit

it's important to be sure that the backside fabric at the hole gets a few extra stabilizing staples. the tape alone > won't

from the pic, in the back left corner- 2 slightly different angles blacker than the flat black paint
that's just f'n swell . . but a problem for the next run of the rabbit hole
I'll finish all panels first , 15 to go, and report back.
I'll be working from the center of the room ,from around the ceiling fan , out to the edges.
gives me wiggle room for adjustments
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post #12394 of 12396 Old Today, 05:16 AM
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Room help...

Long time lurker, first time poster in this section.

I had recently finished my first attempt at a small theater (13x10 spare bedroom) and now that my honeymoon of a 120” screen is fading, I want to tackle some treatments.

I will attach the layout of the room at the bottom, as well as the current placement of screen.


Quick description of the setup:

Room is 9’11x13’ with a small closet (~3’x3’) in the back right of the room which houses the AV equipment; I have removed the door in order to have IR access as well as mitigate some vibrations. On the right wall, at approximate midpoint there is a 6’x6’ window. The door to the room is on left wall at the back of the room (grrrrr). The screen is a 120” 16:9 spandex hung on a frame in-front of the exterior wall (currently not dry-walled/open insulation, wrapped in velvet). Behind the screen are 3x DIYSG HTM10’s; there’s roughly 6” of air gap between the false wall and the back wall insulation. Subs are 2x sealed DA 18-22 Ultimax in 4cuf boxes at the ¼ and ¾ on the front wall. Ls/Rs, Rear L/R are RSL CG3’s hung roughly 1’6” above ear-level, canted towards the MLP.The front and right walls are exterior walls with insulation. Back and left walls are interior with no insulation. Ceiling goes to the attic and is insulated.

Basically, this room is an acoustical nightmare, sound and bass feel muddy; bass is missing that punch...especially for having 2 18” subs in a room that size.

Now to the meat and potatoes of this mess. Here are some things I was thinking about tackling based on everything I’ve read on the forums over last couple of months.
1. Add some absorption panels directly behind the MLP/couch on the back wall, maybe something like 4” or 6” frames of OC 703 (suggestions?). This may get messy as part of the wall behind the right side of the MLP is an open closet...but I’ll get to that later on.

2. BASS TRAPS! Ugh this is going to be tough. If you look at my masterpiece of a drawing below (being facetious, please don't stone me), the only place where I could do a proper wall to ceiling trap (2x4 sheets of material cut into 4 triangles) is the back right corner. The back left, due to the door placement I have about 4” of room to work with on the left wall….so unless I make movable traps, I don't think it’s going to happen. Now the front...while not as terrible as the back left, it’s not great. I only have about 8” of space between the edge of the AT screen and adjacent wall, a far cry from what a “standard” 24” that would be taken up by the triangle trap.
Possible workarounds:
a.Make the traditional triangle corner trap, but carve the inside corner to accommodate the screen or cut the corner in an odd shaped triangle to fit...Both ways seems kind of wasteful but I will leave that for you guys to decide.
b.Fill the cavity behind the screen and the corners with absorption material, making a wall-sized trap...I can take out the pink R-13 OC insulation on the exterior wall and replace it with something more absorbent if needed/possible which would give me total of ~10” of material depth.

3. First reflections. Of all my problems, I think this would be the easiest to deal with. For LCR - 2’x4’x2”/4” OC 703 framed with an inch air-gap. Part of my solution for the window was to build a 6’x6’ frame filled with 4” OC 730 hung on cleats over the window to double as blackout material as well as an absorption panel. For ceiling, similar solution of 2’x4’x2”/4” OC703 frames on cloud-mounts.

4. Lastly...the dang closet. I haven’t measured, but that thing seems to collect bass like it is it’s job. Should I put the door back (replace with solid core) or is there another/better way to deal with it? Treat with panels? Fill it with material (could get expensive).

Ok, I think this is everything I can think of for now, hopefully this wall of text makes sense. Basically, I have no delusions that this is a great room for HT setup. Unfortunately, this is what I have to work with and I want to make the best of it in a way that makes the most cost/benefit sense.

What do you guys think? What would you suggest and how would you go about implementing it. What should I prioritize?

Attached is my finger-painted rough layout of the room.

~cheers
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post #12395 of 12396 Old Today, 06:46 PM
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Would it be better to do 2'x2'x6" traps in the top of the corners where it meets the ceiling or to use bigger 2'x4'x6" traps in the middle of the corners. I would say the top measures about 7 db louder than the middle at the corners. I can't fit the four foot traps in at the top due to speaker placement and a door. Thanks!
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post #12396 of 12396 Old Today, 10:06 PM
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One main thing you can do is move your seating position (couch) about 2 to 2.5 feet forward. It is currently too close to the back wall. And where are those giant subwoofers currently located?
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