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post #1 of 177 Old 10-08-2016, 04:02 PM - Thread Starter
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"Better Late Than Never" Build Thread...

I have been working on my theater for almost a year, and I am approaching the final phase (paint and fabric). I don't know why, but this always seems like the hardest part. I thought I would create a build thread, and hopefully solicit some input.

Also, I wanted to try and give a bit back to the forum. It is amazing all the great ideas I have gotten from other build threads. I don't have much novel to contribute, but maybe something in here will help someone in some way...

Overview:
The room is surrounded on 3 sides by concrete with no windows. There are no obstructions within the room. The 4th wall is adjacent to an unfinished storage area (4’ wide) that runs the length of the theater. The storage area will be insulated, but not drywalled. The ceiling joists run perpendicular to this 4th wall, so in theory, I will have decent access for future upgrades. This arrangement also helps with sound isolation. The concrete walls will be covered with 1” XPS foam. A 2x4 wall will be framed 24” OC with a 1” gap between the framing and the foam. The walls will be built 1” short of the ceiling joists and will be secured with IB-3 brackets. The ceiling will be hung from 25 GA hat channel on IB-1 clips. The room will be drywalled with 2 layers of ⅝” drywall with green glue.

Interior Room Dimensions:
Length: 21’ 9”
Width: 15’ 3”
Height: 8’ 10”

Inspiration:
As is often the case, my inspiration is the Cinemar theater, but specifically a design he discarded. Thanks @mcascio !!! We hope it turns out half as good as yours! I don't have fancy rendering tools, but I use Chief Architect to get a basic visual feel for home renovation projects I work on. The images below give an idea what we have planned. And before someone asks, no, those are not windows. As mentioned before, colors have not been decided...

Tentative Equipment Plan:
Denon AVR‑X4100W
BEHRINGER iNUKE NU6000DSP
OPPO UDP-203
JVC RS400
Falcon Vision Horizon FVS120
LCR: 3 1099s
Surround: 4 Volt 6LX
2 Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 18" subs in Stonehenge enclosures
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post #2 of 177 Old 10-08-2016, 04:19 PM
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I know you are already well into the project, but the renders look great! I look forward to seeing how you have progressed!
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post #3 of 177 Old 10-09-2016, 06:06 AM - Thread Starter
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pre-drywall

Here are some images that capture the room pre-drwall.

I ran all my wiring in a soffit, which was constructed later inside a sealed room. As a result, I didn't have to worry about running low voltage wiring at this point.

I have no idea if this was necessary in GA, but I applied 1" XPS foam to the rim joists and walls, and sealed it all up with great stuff. I referenced basement finishing forum posts (tons of resources). The good ones often pointed back to articles found on buildingscience.com, which I rather liked. (example).

For some reason, I only have one shot of the framing within the room. At any rate, not very interesting. General framing details are captured in the first post.

Also, I live near Atlanta, and I wanted to mention that I found 25 GA hat channel here
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post #4 of 177 Old 10-09-2016, 06:30 AM - Thread Starter
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drywall

I have gutted 2 houses, so I have a fair amount of experience with drywall work. As a result, I no longer bother.

I hired this phase out, and I am glad I did. They rocked the entire basement in ~ 1.5 days, and the taping took ~ 3 days.

I will say, I was involved with the green glue phase. The guys I hired didn't want to caulk all the drywall seems on the initial layer. So I just did it. I probably annoyed them, but I was not about to spend this kinda money and end up with a subpar result...

Also, the taping guy was amazing. I am an annoying/nosey homeowner, so I went down to check on him while working, and the lights were off. I was ticked! I stayed up late to get the lights going so he could see, and he was working in the dark! When I flipped them on, I was amazed. He was doing a better job in the dark than I do with 500W halogens... It was all by touch I guess... The edges where the mud feathers to nothing are so straight it looks like he rolled it on...

No issues with screw lengths or hitting the channel on the ceiling. I was worried about that, but I measured off their screws after they left, and they were all spot on.

Another interesting tidbit, the guys that delivered the drywall were carrying 2 12' 5/8 sheets of drywall by themselves. I don't know what that weighs off hand, but I am glad they were doing that and not me...
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post #5 of 177 Old 10-10-2016, 08:45 AM
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Looking forward to your progress.

It'll be cool to see a discarded design come to reality!
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post #6 of 177 Old 10-10-2016, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post
Looking forward to your progress.

It'll be cool to see a discarded design come to reality!
Mario, your theater inspired so many builds on these forums (not just mine and jhermsmeyer's). The detail you provided allowed so many of us to "steal" design and concepts. Thanks for all your attention to detail.

I'm also super excited to see the fruits of jhermsmeyer's efforts to produce his version of one of your original ideas. He is much further along than he has shown here. We need more pictures!!
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post #7 of 177 Old 10-10-2016, 06:10 PM - Thread Starter
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riser

I constructed my riser based on examples I have seen (primarily from Jeff (thanks @BIGmouthinDC ))

I used 2x12s on the perimeter with 2x10s within, supported at the midpoint by scraps you can see in the photos. I held the structure off the wall by 1/2" all the way around, and if I had to do it again, I would go a full inch.

I wimped out and changed my mind last minute, skipping the radius I had planned for the front of the riser. Since I still hadn't selected seating, I wasn't sure what that radius should be, and the straight edge was easier to build and apply a bullnose. Or so I thought... I probably spent more time correcting issues caused by this shortcut than it saved me. Don't change your mind last minute without properly thinking it through! More on this later...

I ran some 12/2 and low voltage runs within the riser: HDMI, CAT6, USB, 3.5 mm audio extension, and 14 AWG speaker wire for all 7 seats.

The short black wires you see at each step are for LED lighting.

Stuffed it with brown n fluffy, and topped it with 2 layers of 3/4" subfloor with tar paper in between (glued and screwed).

I bought some cheapo 1/8" "hardwood" veneer that I applied to the face of the riser. It will be painted (I just wanted a smooth surface).

The tops of the stairs are oak stair treads where I routed the side to match the profile on the front. The bullnose is stock oak bullnose, which I chose because I am lazy and didn't want to bother glueing shoe mold on the front edge of an oak plank...
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post #8 of 177 Old 10-10-2016, 06:50 PM - Thread Starter
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stage

When I modeled the theater, I played with the stage quite a bit (to find the right look). As a result, I had all the measurements (radius, etc), and construction of the stage was pretty straight forward.

My stage is constructed out of 2x10s, and I chose not to fill it with sand. There is a very interesting thread topic by @granroth you should take a look at: click here. I did, however, fill it with insulation and topped it with a couple layers of 3/4 subfloor with tar paper in between (glued and screwed).

For the radius I actually cut each of the 2x10s at the appropriate angle. I am not sure I would do this again... It took more time, and I am not sure it made any worthwhile difference.

After I installed the variable length 2x10s for the radius, I then installed 2x10s ripped in half (~5" height) next to those to form the framing for the step. It was all screwed together and very sturdy.

I used double layers of 1/8" "hardwood" veneer glued together to cover the radius on the stage (top and bottom). I was worried this would be flimsy. Not a problem at all (I used lots of glue).
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Last edited by jhermsmeyer; 10-10-2016 at 07:45 PM.
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post #9 of 177 Old 10-10-2016, 07:06 PM - Thread Starter
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light control

I agonized over this, and finally went with Insteon. Despite the negative reviews, lots of people have good luck with them, and I really liked their dimming keypad with scene control... No issues so far...

I mounted 4 of the 5 switches in the storage area where my equipment will be located. I will control lighting via an ipad with simplecontrol, and don't need the switches to be accessible within the room. There is 1 light switch in the room which is a dimming keypad with scene control that also handles zone 1.

Zone 1: dimming - 10 can lights in soffit (4 left, 2 back, 4 right)
Zone 2: dimming - 3 can lights above screen
Zone 3: switched - 1 outlet centered on back soffit for 4 16' strands of RGB LED lighting with 2 16' extension cables (hitlights)
Zone 4: switched - 1 outlet hidden in riser centered and accessible via double gang low voltage box used to power 2 16' strands of RGB LED lighting with for step lighting
Zone 5: switched - 2 outlets centered on left and right side in soffit for future black lights and painted star ceiling
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post #10 of 177 Old 10-10-2016, 07:29 PM - Thread Starter
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power

I ended up using 3 20A circuits for the theater as noted below:

- Rack Circuit 1
- Rack Circuit 2
- Theater Outlets Circuit
* Front Riser Centered
* Middle Riser Centered
* Right Riser Column (back side)
* Right Rear Riser Column (center side)
* Left Rear Riser Column (center side)
* Left Riser Column (back side)
* Screen Left
* Screen Right

It is not clear to me if this is just a glorified power strip or not, but I plan to use a Furman M-8Dx line conditioner (with surge protection) for the equipment.
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post #11 of 177 Old 10-10-2016, 07:37 PM - Thread Starter
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low voltage wiring plan

The distances are not exact. That is me guessing how much wire I might need so I knew how much to buy...

Subwoofer Front Wall Left (12 AWG) (70 ft)
Subwoofer Front Wall Right (12 AWG) (60 ft)
Subwoofer Back Wall Left (12 AWG) (50 ft)
Subwoofer Back Wall Right (12 AWG) (40 ft)

Speaker Front Wall Left (12 AWG) (70 ft)
Speaker Front Wall Center (12 AWG) (60 ft)
Speaker Front Wall Right (12 AWG) (50 ft)
Speaker Left Wall Surround (12 AWG) (60 ft)
Speaker Right Wall Surround (12 AWG) (50 ft)
Speaker Back Wall Left Surround (12 AWG) (50 ft)
Speaker Back Wall Right Surround (12 AWG) (40 ft)
Speaker Front Wall Left Height (12 AWG) (future) (70 ft)
Speaker Front Wall Right Height (12 AWG) (future) (50 ft)
Speaker Back Wall Left Height (12 AWG) (future) (50 ft)
Speaker Back Wall Right Height (12 AWG) (future) (40 ft)

Speaker or Subwoofer Left Wall Wide (12 AWG) (future) (80 ft)
Speaker or Subwoofer Right Wall Wide (12 AWG) future) (60 ft)

Screen Centered 1 CAT6 (future) (70 ft)

Projector Back Soffit 2 HDMI Cables (30 ft each)
Projector Back Soffit 5 CAT6 (2 for Balun, 1 IR/RS232, 1 IP, 1 spare) (30 ft each)

Riser Front Centered 1 HDMI (30 ft)
Riser Front Centered 1 CAT6 (30 ft)
Riser Front Centered 1 USB (30 ft)
Riser Front Centered 1 3.5 mm M/F Audio Extension Cable (Microphone) (30 ft)
Riser Front Centered 3 Butt Kickers (14 AWG) (30 ft each)

Riser Middle Centered 4 Butt Kickers (14 AWG) (30 ft each)
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post #12 of 177 Old 10-11-2016, 06:27 AM
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I like that window look. That window insert design over acoustic material would look really cool.

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post #13 of 177 Old 10-11-2016, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhermsmeyer View Post
It is not clear to me if this is just a glorified power strip or not, but I plan to use a Furman M-8Dx line conditioner (with surge protection) for the equipment.
I just bought one of these myself, with the built in lights(Furman M-8Lx). I haven't tore it apart to see what 'surge suppression' it has, but most likely just a small capacitor. I plan on connecting mine to a APC UPS to ensure clean sinusoidal voltage, and only really use it as a wall wart collector.

Your build looks nice thus far.
What Insteon gateway are you going to use? Are you planning on using something like iRule for complete room control, or something else?

HT1.0 | HT2.05
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post #14 of 177 Old 10-11-2016, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhermsmeyer View Post
I agonized over this, and finally went with Insteon. Despite the negative reviews, lots of people have good luck with them, and I really liked their dimming keypad with scene control... No issues so far...

I mounted 4 of the 5 switches in the storage area where my equipment will be located. I will control lighting via an ipad with simplecontrol, and don't need the switches to be accessible within the room. There is 1 light switch in the room which is a dimming keypad with scene control that also handles zone 1.

Zone 1: dimming - 10 can lights in soffit (4 left, 2 back, 4 right)
Zone 2: dimming - 3 can lights above screen
Zone 3: switched - 1 outlet centered on back soffit for 4 16' strands of RGB LED lighting with 2 16' extension cables (hitlights)
Zone 4: switched - 1 outlet hidden in riser centered and accessible via double gang low voltage box used to power 2 16' strands of RGB LED lighting with for step lighting
Zone 5: switched - 2 outlets centered on left and right side in soffit for future black lights and painted star ceiling
Much like you, this is something I pondered greatly. Just last week, I went with insteon (also concerned about the reviews). I have my switches on one of my columns. Right now, I have the hub installed in another room. I don't have the multi-switch for scene control yet, but that's my plan. I will put that outside the door for setting the scene prior to entrance. I'm curious to know more about "simple control". I will have to read up on that.

Keep it up, looks great!
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post #15 of 177 Old 10-11-2016, 07:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdy2179 View Post
I like that window look. That window insert design over acoustic material would look really cool.

thanks

and that is exactly what I plan to do.

it was hard to give up the wainscoting, cause it looks so good, but I think this might look ok too...

some panels will be absorption and some dispersion, but you won't be able to tell, as they will be covered with fabric in these large wall hangings, which are easily movable.

when the room is done I want to play with and learn to use REW, experimenting with treatments to see what sort of affect they have.
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post #16 of 177 Old 10-11-2016, 08:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sirjaymz View Post
I just bought one of these myself, with the built in lights(Furman M-8Lx). I haven't tore it apart to see what 'surge suppression' it has, but most likely just a small capacitor. I plan on connecting mine to a APC UPS to ensure clean sinusoidal voltage, and only really use it as a wall wart collector.

Your build looks nice thus far.
What Insteon gateway are you going to use? Are you planning on using something like iRule for complete room control, or something else?
thanks

I would be interested in what you find about the Furman's surge suppression capabilities. I will put a watch on your build thread. your outdoor views are stunning btw.

I started off intending to go the iRule path, but when I was honest with myself, I realized my needs are simple. I really just want a few "macros" to adjust lighting and AV inputs when doing different things in the theater. I probably would not get more complicated than that. So I backed up a bit, and I hope to accomplish that with a combination of the Insteon Central Hub (2245-222) and SimpleControl. I have only played briefly with this stuff, so I can't say how this will all pan out yet. I will report on it when I do.
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post #17 of 177 Old 10-11-2016, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhermsmeyer View Post
thanks

and that is exactly what I plan to do.

it was hard to give up the wainscoting, cause it looks so good, but I think this might look ok too...

some panels will be absorption and some dispersion, but you won't be able to tell, as they will be covered with fabric in these large wall hangings, which are easily movable.

when the room is done I want to play with and learn to use REW, experimenting with treatments to see what sort of affect they have.

Yea the classic column/ wainscoting look is a safe great looking design has been done so much it's normal around here. I wish I could change my design out all the time when I see new cool designs like the one you're looking at. I saw this one over the weekend. Really cool and looks like a simple design.

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post #18 of 177 Old 10-11-2016, 10:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crankycowboy View Post
Much like you, this is something I pondered greatly. Just last week, I went with insteon (also concerned about the reviews). I have my switches on one of my columns. Right now, I have the hub installed in another room. I don't have the multi-switch for scene control yet, but that's my plan. I will put that outside the door for setting the scene prior to entrance. I'm curious to know more about "simple control". I will have to read up on that.

Keep it up, looks great!
simplecontrol was originally called roomie remote, I think, which you may have read about.

I was turned off initially by the notion of a yearly fee, but later I downloaded their IOS app and played with it. I was pleasantly surprised. I have a lot to learn yet, but my notion is that the app will do everything I personally need, and I don't need separate equipment...

I was controlling my denon receiver in under 5 minutes via IP via the app on my phone. I think I payed some small fee, but I see they have a free version now for a single device. so you can just download it and play with it to see what you think.

I can't say I am in love with the app. I haven't had time to play with it much yet. however, based on what I have seen so far, I am hopeful it will work well.

allowing everyone in the house to use their phone to control the av gear in whatever room they are in could be a nifty feature...
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post #19 of 177 Old 10-11-2016, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhermsmeyer View Post
simplecontrol was originally called roomie remote, I think, which you may have read about.

I was turned off initially by the notion of a yearly fee, but later I downloaded their IOS app and played with it. I was pleasantly surprised. I have a lot to learn yet, but my notion is that the app will do everything I personally need, and I don't need separate equipment...

I was controlling my denon receiver in under 5 minutes via IP via the app on my phone. I think I payed some small fee, but I see they have a free version now for a single device. so you can just download it and play with it to see what you think.

I can't say I am in love with the app. I haven't had time to play with it much yet. however, based on what I have seen so far, I am hopeful it will work well.

allowing everyone in the house to use their phone to control the av gear in whatever room they are in could be a nifty feature...
Great info, after your post, I looked them up. Looks very interesting. I will have to download the trial version and play with it some. Right now, I'm using the insteon app to control scenes/lighting. I have a Harmony Elite that I had originally planned to integrate as it was doing well at controlling my HTPC and other AV components....but now I'm intrigued by this app (and I had heard of roomie remote on the Plex forums, but hadn't checked it out previously). Thanks for the input!
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post #20 of 177 Old 10-11-2016, 05:12 PM - Thread Starter
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soffit (framing)

I struggled with the soffit, primarily because I had a hard time deciding what I wanted it to look like, but also because I made it a bit small. I had a lot going on inside the soffit: recessed lighting, HVAC, lots of wiring, projector mount framing, and conduit. In the back especially, I had a tough time getting everything to fit, and not compromise my attempt to keep lighting and columns spaced symmetrically in the room. If I had spent some more time planning, I probably could have avoided this issue...

The soffit was 12" tall, 17" deep on the sides, 24" deep in the back, and 41" deep in the front.

Construction technique was the same followed by many here on these forums. I couldn't find straight 2x2s so I ripped 2x4s in half. I glued and screwed them to the ceiling into hat channel which was placed in the right spot before drywall went up.

I was a bit worried about PJ weight, so I used some metal pipe strap to reinforce the framing so the weight was carried by the wall and not the ceiling (which is hung on channel).
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post #21 of 177 Old 10-11-2016, 05:42 PM - Thread Starter
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soffit (hvac)

I struggled with HVAC as well. In fact, I created a separate thread on the topic you can read here. In the end, everything worked out well.

I have an 8" supply coming in the back of the room and 8" return exiting the front of the room. I understand now that this is backwards, but I don't think it will be a huge problem.

The 8" flex supply enters the room into a box constructed of 2 layers of 1/2" MDF with green glue and proceeds to a plenum on the other side of the projector which I lined with duct board. I wanted to use a good sized grille to prevent any air noise (see calculation below) and couldn't get a vent that size to fit in the bottom of the soffit (lights and columns in the way) so I put the grille in the vertical face of the soffit.

The return was constructed at the front of the room in a similar manner.

I can't find the thread where I got this, so I can't give credit, but here is the formula I stole to calculate vent size:

15W X 21L x 9H = 2835 cubic feet room
Need ~ 8 air exchanges per hour
2835 * 8 = 22,680 CFH
22,680 / 60 = 380 CFM
380 CFM / 250 FPM (max for no noise) = 1.5 sq ft = 216 sq in
Assume 20% grille blockage, so I need 216 / .8 = 270 sq in

The return and supply are connected to HVAC at the moment, and the duct switch mentioned in the thread above will be implemented later (remember I have full access to the side of the theater in the storage areas).

I hear no noise coming from the 8" supply / return outside the room.
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post #22 of 177 Old 10-11-2016, 06:04 PM - Thread Starter
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soffit (lighting)

I used Globe Electric 4" Dimmable Downlight Swivel Spotlight Recessed Lighting Kits for lighting. Price was right, and they worked out just fine.

I used these LED strips in the soffit (4 strands (2 of which on 16' extensions to reach all the way around the room)). I used the same kit for the riser (only 2 strands). I am happy with the LED lighting, however, on the riser, it is awfully bright, even on the lowest setting. I kinda wish I had used luma5 there instead.

I used 1/2 MDF on the vertical and horizontal face of the soffit. I had a 7" ledge (where the soffit bottom extended beyond the vertical face of the soffit). With the 1/2" MDF I didn't have crazy 3/4" MDF weight, I had no waviness on the edge, there was no ledge sag, and I won't have to worry about it breaking off (like drywall could) if someone bumps it. I would use this approach again.

I installed a strip of plywood ripped at the appropriate angle to mount the crown on the soffit ledges outside edge. I also used this plywood strip to mount the LED lighting on. I thought this was a great idea when I did it, however, the LEDs should have been mounted higher as I have a semi hard line of light on the ceiling when the room is dark and the rope lighting is turned on due to the crown... No big deal though, maybe I can fix this later...

Oh, and I primed the room and painted the ceiling...
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Last edited by jhermsmeyer; 10-12-2016 at 04:46 AM.
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post #23 of 177 Old 10-12-2016, 05:26 PM - Thread Starter
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columns and trim

Column construction was typical of what I have seen others do, but I tried to mix things up a bit by mitering my outside corners. I wanted to see if I could avoid having to seal and paint an MDF edge. It actually worked pretty well.

The first 45 I cut was a problem, because my outfeed table was a bit lower than my table saw, and the MDF lifted during the cut. This caused a wave in the first joint I attempted. I corrected this, and the rest of the joints turned out pretty good. I posted closeup pictures of the worst joint and the best joint. I figure with some wood filler and sanding, I will have some really nice corners.

I guessed on dimensions based on what I have seen from others. I also had to make my volt 6s fit. I can measure and post dimensions if anyone is interested.

I mentioned earlier that avoiding the radius on the stage caused a problem. This was because I had power run to all the columns in the back of the room. When I moved the front of the stage (where it meets the wall) that forced the columns back, and my 12/2 was no longer in the right spot... I had to punch holes in the wall and move it all, and seal it back up. I won't bore you, but there were other issues along the way. It is all fixed up now though...

I ran speaker wire to the column locations before I sealed up the soffit, and I installed some shelving brackets I saw someone else use once to hold adjustable shelves for the surround speakers.

In this post you can also see that I installed a bunch of trim. Installing crown on square things (which is no room I have ever worked with) is a treat!

There is also something special in one the shots. Some will call this foolish... I call this awesomeness!

Now that the "boss" can visualize the room, she is all sorts of interested. I even got an ok to buy the seating this year if I get that far...

A couple more posts, and we are at present day!
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Last edited by jhermsmeyer; 10-12-2016 at 05:33 PM.
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post #24 of 177 Old 10-12-2016, 06:17 PM - Thread Starter
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speaker and rack pron

1099 build pics as well as my super duper fancy rack...

I don't have any volt 6 build pics (they went together to fast)...
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post #25 of 177 Old 10-12-2016, 10:57 PM
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....just when I was getting in to this thread, you go and do this!



...now we'll never get to see the end result!



Looking really good. If my room ends up anything like half as good as this, I'll be happy!
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post #26 of 177 Old 10-13-2016, 04:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhermsmeyer View Post
There is also something special in one the shots. Some will call this foolish... I call this awesomeness!
Uh oh! I know I said, you might catch up to me....maybe I was wrong

Actually, I'm not as far ahead as you think. I still have all my crown to do, finish the oak on the stage (first step) and the trim around the risers. So we are pretty close.

I really love some of the design decisions you made. Looks great, don't let that projector slow you down!
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post #27 of 177 Old 10-13-2016, 05:21 AM
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It's looking great! Are you going with any hidden room acoustic treatments?
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post #28 of 177 Old 10-13-2016, 07:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UK Dreamer View Post
....just when I was getting in to this thread, you go and do this!



...now we'll never get to see the end result!



Looking really good. If my room ends up anything like half as good as this, I'll be happy!
Thanks a lot! I scanned your build thread, I will have to read it in detail. Your kitchen looks amazing!
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post #29 of 177 Old 10-13-2016, 07:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crankycowboy View Post
Uh oh! I know I said, you might catch up to me....maybe I was wrong

Actually, I'm not as far ahead as you think. I still have all my crown to do, finish the oak on the stage (first step) and the trim around the risers. So we are pretty close.

I really love some of the design decisions you made. Looks great, don't let that projector slow you down!
Thanks!

Although the PJ is mounted, it isn't very effective yet. You will see why in a bit.
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post #30 of 177 Old 10-13-2016, 07:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdy2179 View Post
It's looking great! Are you going with any hidden room acoustic treatments?
Thanks!

Most of my acoustic treatments will be those window looking wall hangings. I will have bass traps in the front corners though, which will be hidden by the screen wall. In fact, I was just getting ready to post about that...
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