"Are We Done Yet?" Build Thread - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 86 Old 09-11-2017, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Spyderturbo007 View Post
Thanks javeryh!

I'm planning on Underworld Blood Wars in 4K. Kate Beckinsale in leather makes me smile.
Ditto...and your theater looks pretty good too.
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post #62 of 86 Old 09-12-2017, 06:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Sooooooo.......I finished up the crown last night. All that's left is a little touch up and a door. At that point I'm done!!!!!!

I just need to figure out how to hang a door and what I should buy. I've installed split jam doors, which are easy, but I've never hung a normal door, let alone a solid core.

Is that something I should be able to do myself, or would I be best to hire someone?

I wish my iPhone didn't hate the lighting so much. It looks a lot better in person.














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post #63 of 86 Old 09-12-2017, 07:16 AM
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Hanging a door is a pain but not something you couldn't figure out based on your skill set in building the rest of the room. I assume you'd buy a pre-hung door - it makes things much much easier. If you are going to try to mortise the area for the hinges on both the door and the jamb then I'd just hire someone and save on the aggravation. Basically you install the jamb and shim the crap out of it until all 3 sides are straight/level and the door can open and close. Then you tack the jamb in place (through the shims to hold them in place), break or saw off the excess material from the shims sticking out and then the moulding covers everything (the moulding will also really tighten the jamb in place).

Your room looks GREAT! Do you have any plans for the back row? Man, I'm so close so this is making me jealous!!
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post #64 of 86 Old 09-12-2017, 07:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javeryh View Post
Hanging a door is a pain but not something you couldn't figure out based on your skill set in building the rest of the room. I assume you'd buy a pre-hung door - it makes things much much easier. If you are going to try to mortise the area for the hinges on both the door and the jamb then I'd just hire someone and save on the aggravation. Basically you install the jamb and shim the crap out of it until all 3 sides are straight/level and the door can open and close. Then you tack the jamb in place (through the shims to hold them in place), break or saw off the excess material from the shims sticking out and then the moulding covers everything (the moulding will also really tighten the jamb in place).

Your room looks GREAT! Do you have any plans for the back row? Man, I'm so close so this is making me jealous!!
I was hoping it wouldn't be too horrible. I was guessing that if I could finish my basement and build a theater, I should be able to hang a door.

My assumption is that I should leave the floor height + 1/2" at the bottom of the door for the automatic drop down seal thing?

As for the back row, it's going to be another row of 3 chairs. The money is just earmarked for other things right now. Next is a floor in the bar / sitting area and carpet in the game room.
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post #65 of 86 Old 09-12-2017, 08:21 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm hoping someone can answer some door questions for me. I'm looking around and am finding that these doors, when reinforced, are really heavy. I didn't really plan for something with the weight I'm reading people are ending up with after reinforcement. I'm wondering if my door frame isn't strong enough?

Now that I look back at some pictures, I'm thinking I might not have built it correctly.

Will this work It's framed with 2 x 4's.

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post #66 of 86 Old 09-12-2017, 11:12 AM
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Looks fine to me. Seems like you have 2 more jack studs than I normally see for a non load bearing wall, but I would imagine it would be fine.

I'm assuming you will have your door open "out" from the theater? That avoids the need for getting wider hinges, which is nice.

edit: so the main point will just be to confirm that you do have hinges that can support the weight if you do beef it up.
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post #67 of 86 Old 09-12-2017, 11:45 AM - Thread Starter
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I was scared there for a second with the framing. I was planning on going with more / higher grade hinges.

It will open out into the rest of the basement. There wasn't the room to have it open in.

How do I handle wanted to beef up the inside of the door? Won't that involve moving the door stop to accommodate the additional thickness? I'm also thinking that if I make it thicker, I would have to make the panels more narrow than the door, so it doesn't hit the jam when you try and get it open?
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post #68 of 86 Old 09-13-2017, 06:40 AM
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Check out @javeryh , build thread. He has some good post about what he did with his double doors.

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post #69 of 86 Old 09-13-2017, 08:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Check out @javeryh , build thread. He has some good post about what he did with his double doors.
Thanks for the link. I took a look, but his door opens in and mine has to open out.
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post #70 of 86 Old 09-15-2017, 07:20 AM - Thread Starter
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So I need some door help.

I called a local lumber yard and they said they can get me whatever I want from Simpson Door. He said check out their website, call them back with the style number and they will get me a quote.

What should I look for in a door? Interior, Exterior, Fire Rated, etc?

http://www.simpsondoor.com/
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post #71 of 86 Old 09-19-2017, 05:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Does anyone have any ideas on the door?

I picked up a rack yesterday. It's huge, but at $150 I couldn't pass it up. It's a Chatsworth 45U, 4 Post rack at 30" deep.

I'm going to have to hack up the supports so I can slide it against the wall, but for that price, it was a no brainer.



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post #72 of 86 Old 09-21-2017, 12:17 PM - Thread Starter
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So I'm still stuck on this door thing. I know I'm supposed to look for a 1 3/4" solid core door. I found this door and I'm wondering if the entire thing is 1 3/4" or just the perimeter? From their specs drawing, it looks like the center panels are only 3/4"?

Am I looking for something that's a full 1 3/4" thickness all the way around? I'd like to get something with a little class to it as opposed to just a slab, if possible.

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post #73 of 86 Old 09-25-2017, 03:54 AM
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You could check out the Salt Mine Dedicated Theater Build for a 'self made' door with soundproofing in mind. Posts 216 and 222 (around February 24, 2015) . A picture of the outside of the door can be found on post 252.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-ded...theater-8.html

The outside is a little plain, but if you cut strips of 1/4" or 1/2" plywood, you could likely make it look like that barn door style.

I think most 'manufactured' doors, will definitely have less wood in the center areas. If sound reduction is a goal, then I would personally avoid that, but if the sound reduction isn't a big deal, then it would probably be fine.
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post #74 of 86 Old 02-09-2018, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyderturbo007 View Post
Thanks!


Thanks for pointing me over here. Looks fantastic. Great job.

I still have some questions about the fabric.....

You bought both the red and black velvet from DMD?
What did you use to hang it?
Is there any way to change the fabric color mid wall without hiding it under trim? Or is the edge of the fabric really noticeable? Not sure how clean and straight it can be cut to maybe overlap it?
I have floor trim installed already, I imagine this would need to be removed, install the fabric, then replace the trim? It probably wouldn't look good butting up to the trim?

That's all I got for now. Thanks in advance for your response.
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post #75 of 86 Old 02-09-2018, 08:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jpbb2003 View Post
Thanks for pointing me over here. Looks fantastic. Great job.

I still have some questions about the fabric.....

You bought both the red and black velvet from DMD?
What did you use to hang it?
Is there any way to change the fabric color mid wall without hiding it under trim? Or is the edge of the fabric really noticeable? Not sure how clean and straight it can be cut to maybe overlap it?
I have floor trim installed already, I imagine this would need to be removed, install the fabric, then replace the trim? It probably wouldn't look good butting up to the trim?

That's all I got for now. Thanks in advance for your response.
Thanks for the compliments.

I bought the Velvet from JoAnn fabrics but the DMD was purchased from Acousticmac.

You can change mid wall, but you would have to do it differently than I did. It would just be a matter of either building them off the wall and then mounting them, or just wrapping them differently, similar to how I handled the corners. I wanted the crown & chair molding, so building them on the wall was much faster and easier in my opinion.

I built all my velvet panels off the wall, so a few pictures might be helpful. I put them together with 1" birch plywood and a Kreg pocket jig tool. Then wrapped them in velvet and stuffed them with Lineacoustic. From there, it's a matter of deciding how you want to hang them. I experimented with a few different options, but in the end, opted to fire 2" brad nails in the sides at an angle to hold them up. Where I couldn't go at an angle, I went right through the corner. If you set the gun correctly, it leaves a very small hole that you probably wouldn't see.

If I knew better and put the outlets in the columns, I would have probably built everything off the wall and mounted them so they were removable, but I didn't know any better at the time and put the outlets in the wall. That meant that I needed to cut out the fabric and staple it for the outlet meaning that I wouldn't be able to remove it if I wanted.

You'd probably want to pull the trim regardless. If you don't, the panels will stick out further than the trim and would probably look weird.



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post #76 of 86 Old 02-09-2018, 09:22 AM
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Wow, very impressive. When I first saw your walls, i was thinking it would be much easier. I almost hate myself for seeing this.....

In the past 12 hours, I have completely redesigned my screen wall after seeing your thread. My carpenter is going to think I lost my mind, this will be the 4th change from original plans. I blame you, lol.

So the red walls you did are also 'panels'? If so, I may have to stick with paint. I can't do that myself and I wouldn't trust the carpenter either. Thanks again.
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post #77 of 86 Old 02-09-2018, 09:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Wow, very impressive. When I first saw your walls, i was thinking it would be much easier. I almost hate myself for seeing this.....

In the past 12 hours, I have completely redesigned my screen wall after seeing your thread. My carpenter is going to think I lost my mind, this will be the 4th change from original plans. I blame you, lol.

So the red walls you did are also 'panels'? If so, I may have to stick with paint. I can't do that myself and I wouldn't trust the carpenter either. Thanks again.
No worries. My wife blames me for stuff all the time.

It's actually really easy to do.

The red walls are just stretched fabric over furring strips. I took a piece of plywood and ripped it down into strips. The strips get nailed and glued to the wall. Then I just hung up the fabric with some push pins to hold it in place. Then it was a matter of stretching and stapling the fabric to the furring strips. Put up some trim to cover the staples (where applicable) and viola', you're done. You can also buy this fabric track stuff, but it's expensive. Apparently you just stick it to the wall and roll the fabric in with a pizza cutter looking thing. I just opted to go the route I did because I was cheap and didn't want to spend the money on the track. But it is pretty slick.

Even building them off the wall was easy too.

Before I started finishing my basement, I had never even cut a 2 x 4 in half (seriously), if that gives you any indication of my "pre-build" skill level.

This post shows pictures of how I did the walls. It's actually a lot easier than you think. I did the red and black walls over a weekend. The velvet took about another day and a half.
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post #78 of 86 Old 02-09-2018, 10:38 AM
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No worries. My wife blames me for stuff all the time.

It's actually really easy to do.

The red walls are just stretched fabric over furring strips. I took a piece of plywood and ripped it down into strips. The strips get nailed and glued to the wall. Then I just hung up the fabric with some push pins to hold it in place. Then it was a matter of stretching and stapling the fabric to the furring strips. Put up some trim to cover the staples (where applicable) and viola', you're done. You can also buy this fabric track stuff, but it's expensive. Apparently you just stick it to the wall and roll the fabric in with a pizza cutter looking thing. I just opted to go the route I did because I was cheap and didn't want to spend the money on the track. But it is pretty slick.
That actually sounds like something I might be able to handle and it will more or less take care of my worry about my son ruining the paint.

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post #79 of 86 Old 02-09-2018, 03:35 PM
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@Spyderturbo007 , what did you do about the door? Did you get the second row of chairs in yet?

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post #80 of 86 Old 02-12-2018, 07:11 AM - Thread Starter
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@Spyderturbo007 , what did you do about the door? Did you get the second row of chairs in yet?
I haven't tackled the door yet. I still haven't found something that I like and haven't gotten a chance to get to the lumber yard and ask about a custom door. I'll probably end up going with a solid core slab door and adding some MDF on the inside of the door.

Just one row for right now. I was talking with Roman about a second row. The plan was to go with two rows of the Jive line, but the backs on the Jive just aren't very high. If I want to lay my head back, I have to slouch down so far in the chair my feet hang way off the end. Unfortunately I end up sitting pretty upright with them. It's my fault for not trying them before I bought them.

I was considering going with a different style, but then I would only be able to get two in the front because of my limited width. I'm also not sure how dumb it would look with two different style chairs.
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post #81 of 86 Old 02-12-2018, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyderturbo007 View Post
I haven't tackled the door yet. I still haven't found something that I like and haven't gotten a chance to get to the lumber yard and ask about a custom door. I'll probably end up going with a solid core slab door and adding some MDF on the inside of the door.

Just one row for right now. I was talking with Roman about a second row. The plan was to go with two rows of the Jive line, but the backs on the Jive just aren't very high. If I want to lay my head back, I have to slouch down so far in the chair my feet hang way off the end. Unfortunately I end up sitting pretty upright with them. It's my fault for not trying them before I bought them.

I was considering going with a different style, but then I would only be able to get two in the front because of my limited width. I'm also not sure how dumb it would look with two different style chairs.
So I take it you are 6' or over? I am at 6' and was wondering about the height of some chairs. The Jive is 41.5 and the Tribute is 44.75. I don't think it would like that different if you stay with the same color. I do see that the tribute is 8.5" wider for a row of 3. You could do the 3 seated sofa and get some armrest for when there are a bunch guys watching in the room. That's what I have thought about doing for the front row when I would be watching football alone in my theater and could lay down then.

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post #82 of 86 Old 02-12-2018, 08:06 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm 6' on the nose. I was talking to Roman about the Tribute. My concern is that the additional height will screw up the view from the back row if I put them in the front row. My riser was built with the Jive in mind.

He did say that the "back can be bent up to 30 degrees", which I'm assuming means that the head rest can be bent up for more support. He also told me that all his chairs use the same leather, so they would match perfectly except for the style being different.

It's normally just my wife and I watching a movie, so two in the front would probably be fine. 5 chairs is a weird number, but I don't think I'll have the room for 3 of the Tributes.
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post #83 of 86 Old 02-12-2018, 09:01 AM
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The Tribute 3 row is 96" and your room is 12' wide or 144" right? If you have it 12" of the far wall it would leave you 3' to get by. How wide is the landing inside the room where you come through the door? There is also the Escape 1019 Evolution sofa that is only 83" wide and 42.5 tall. Not one more inch would be enough to help or not, but the middle seat folding down would be nice for two people in the front row. If I stay with my room at 14' or little less, I am thinking about this one and a couple arm rest for when the guys come over to watch a move. All though I am thinking of making my room 17' wide now so I can get 2 rows of 4 in maybe 5. I was thinking of adding a bar, but like you said it is mostly me and my wife in the room, although if I get it done in the next year or so, my son who just turned 9 may want some of his buddy's over to watch things I bet. My room is almost 26' long and I currently have a 120" 16:9 screen and want to go to a 163" 2.35:1 AT screen at some point.

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post #84 of 86 Old 02-12-2018, 09:10 AM - Thread Starter
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I think the room is only 11' 4" wide after clips, channel, DD and 1" treatments. I need to measure it again, but I've been working on the floor in the bar / sitting area and haven't had time to deal with the chairs. So much to do, so little time.
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post #85 of 86 Old 06-23-2018, 03:25 PM
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In-Ceiling Boxes

Hi there,

Great thread and installation! I wanted to know how effective the in-ceiling boxes have been from deadening the sound traveling through the floor and upstairs? Now that you've had time to enjoy your setup is there anything you would do differently with the boxes to help reduce the noise, or do they eliminate the sound altogether?

Im currently building a 2-story property and have the same challenges with bedrooms above the theatre room, and really only want to install in-ceiling speakers.

Thanks for your feedback.
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post #86 of 86 Old 03-16-2019, 12:58 PM
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Have you decided on front and overhead speakers, subs, and a Dolby Atmos pre-amp or receiver for the theater room yet?



If not, I would have to recommend three Emotiva T2 towers for across the front if you are looking to not break the bank and have fronts that can put out some oomph and timbre match fairly closely to your GoldenEar surrounds (they use planar type folded ribbon tweeters too). You have an acoustic screen, so you would want identical vertical speakers just like a commercial theater.


As for ceiling speakers, I would go with four or more of the same GoldenEar Invisa's you have for sides and rears.


Depending on your budget and desires, I have two suggestions: either get a 7.1.4 receiver like the Denon 4400H or Marantz 7012 on sale for $899 or $999, respectively, through Amazon and an authorized dealer on their seller list (like ListenUp)... or... consider the upcoming Monoprice HTP-1 9.1.6 pre-amp/processor for more flexibility with the possibility of up to six overheads and the addition of Front Wides too, along with Dirac auto calibration.



The sub depends on how much space you have to work with behind your screen (or in front, if you need more room for the sub cabinet). Monoprice's THX 15" ported or HSU Research VTF-15H would be good bangs for the buck. I have the Monoprice and really like it, as long as you want a tighter, somewhat more musical sound rather than more air output and tactile feel via the ports. The Monoprice is a beast as far as size and weight goes.

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