Matt Cave 2.0: The unglamorous, ultra slow, and generally uninteresting build thread - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 21 Old 01-21-2017, 07:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Matt Cave 2.0: The unglamorous, ultra slow, and generally uninteresting build thread

No, I could not come up with a better name so lay off /s. Wait is unglamorous a word? Anyway, I’ve been lurking on these forums for a long time now and have finally decided it was time to start a build thread of my own. I've been planning some remodeling ideas and big changes to our current dedicated room. The current room was a quick experiment I put together with some existing equipment (before I got too serious into HT). To get the wifey on board I had to go very low key with everything, so I started without any subs and a humble 5 speaker surround setup.

Purpose of this Thread:
As I share my hopes and dreams for the second wave of my dedicated theater project, my hope is that many of you will chime in and tell me what I’m doing wrong, thereby crushing my dreams like a grape. Seriously though, it would be awesome to use this thread not only to help with the design of the room but also to help others with ideas and lessons learned. And maybe, just maybe, there will be people that can benefit from the information held therein as they read about my general misfortune and idiocy.

Regarding the name of the room, let’s just get this out of the way:
Is it a lame name? Yes.
Does it point to laziness and a general lack of creativity on my part? Yes.
Is it completely irrelevant since the room is on the second floor above the garage and clearly not in a cave? Yes. (Minor Details)
Does it perfectly describe my moronic personality and dry humor? Absolutely.


Project Goals:
1. Create an acoustically accurate, fully immersive, and visceral room in which the users disappear into another reality one hour at a time.
2. Work around the existing architecture of the room; within reason
3. Create the most efficient use of space possible in a strange FROG room (Finished room over garage)
4. Be cost effective without compromising the quality of the room.
- I plan to use DIY as much as possible, where it makes sense.
5. Have fun and make some new friends along the way.

The next post will be the current room, which was largely a quick experiment. Following that post will be my plan for updates.
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post #2 of 21 Old 01-21-2017, 07:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Matt Cave 1.0 description

As some of you may know, getting your wife on board is an essential part of any theater build process. Hence was the case in my situation as well. The main goal at this stage was to build something relatively on the cheap that would be good enough to get my wife all excited and on board. So that's what I did!

Equipment List:
Polk RTi12 LR
Polk CSi6 center
Polk FXiA6 dipole surround
Polk RTi6 rear surrounds
(2) Ultimax UM18-22 subs with 4.0cuft boxes

DIY 148" diagonal 2.35:1 screen (Carls 1.1 screen material)
Panasonic AE8000u projector
Denon 4520CI
Yamaha P7000S (for LR speakers)
iNuke 6000dsp for subs
Oppo 103D
PS4
Xbox One S
Harmony Companion Remote
Middle Atlantic Rack
All tuning done with Minidsp microphone and REW



I drew up the room in SketchUp and planned a ton with what I had. Yes the subs are in the back of the room and that's generally a bad idea. Well they were an afterthought, as I ran into some extra cash and got the green light to build after the room was already set up. Due to the weird angle of the ceiling I had to make a compromise: Do I make the screen super small and fit the subs underneath, or do I make the screen a nice large size and deal with the subs later?

I decided on the latter, fully knowing that I would eventually go to an AT screen and move them up front:



And finally some actual pics of the room, sorry for the poor quality cell hone stuff:




Last edited by turbonut; 01-21-2017 at 09:33 AM.
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post #3 of 21 Old 01-21-2017, 07:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Matt Cave 2.0 Description

Good news: I achieved my key purpose with the first version of the theater. My wife loves it!

Now after a year of wearing her down to the changes I want to make in the room..... she finally has come around to the idea of a version 2.0. There's a catch however. I have to sell lots of stuff I have stored/stacked in my workshop. A minor price to pay really and the overflow of crap was getting annoying anyway haha It'll take me some time to sell off everything, so the build will move very slowly until that point.

Design Direction for new room:
- Dreamscreen Ultraweave V6 screen material with poplar frame and screen tight channel
- Proper sound treatment of all first reflection points (Roxul Rockboard 40)
- Dead front wall and minimalist screen wall structure (i.e. no baffle wall.... for now at least)
- Tuned bass traps (RXL 80 with tuned front baffle)
- Theater recliners with second row riser

Current plan for upgraded components (though subject to change):
- Titan-615LX LCR
- Volt 10lx side and rear surrounds in sealed boxes. Eventually 4 more in ceiling for atmos
- 4 B&C 21DS115-4, 15cuft ported boxes @16 Hz
- New 4k projector (currently looking at Epson 5040ub and JVC offerings)

Last edited by turbonut; 05-24-2017 at 11:43 AM.
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post #4 of 21 Old 01-21-2017, 07:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Latest progress post

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post #5 of 21 Old 01-21-2017, 09:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Please don't be shy folks, any comments and conversation would be appreciated I'm also getting aorund to adding the current room response for the sub tuning (then you'll understand why I am tuning bass trap center frequencies for 70Hz)
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post #6 of 21 Old 01-21-2017, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbonut View Post
Purpose of this Thread:
As I share my hopes and dreams for the second wave of my dedicated theater project, my hope is that many of you will chime in and tell me what I’m doing wrong, thereby crushing my dreams like a grape. Seriously though, it would be awesome to use this thread not only to help with the design of the room but also to help others with ideas and lessons learned. And maybe, just maybe, there will be people that can benefit from the information held therein as they read about my general misfortune and idiocy.
I really like your space. I have a soft spot for rooms over the garage and love the 'hangoutability' (as long as we're making up words ) that they offer. Must be the angled ceilings...

I really like your 2.0 upgraded equipment list as well! Should be unreal in a compact space like that. Bonus rooms like this tend to have great tactile response due to their floating nature (as you're well aware of with the UM's I'm sure), and the 8-18's should get things moving big-time! The 4722's will rip your face off if you let them too.

The question is, how do you plan to contain all of that firepower being that the room is finished? I had a bonus room in my last house and had planned a high power theater for it, but testing with some of the planned equipment in the room proved that it was going to be exceedingly difficult to not pi$$ off the neighbors in all directions (suburban neighborhood with 1/3-1/2 acre lots). This (and other factors) led to the room never getting off the ground. The walkout basement where the 'temporary' (for 10 years ) setup was located was infinitely better at containing sound even though it had a whole wall of windows at ground level at the back of the room. My bonus room wasn't finished using any sound containment strategies, but I've read enough to know that even if it was, it could only have helped so much.

Not trying to dissuade you from the project...perhaps you are out in the country or something, or have enough of a buffer to not be 'that guy'? Lucky if so! I've since embarked on a new project that was intended to contain the collateral damage caused by having fun with my gear (new house on a 1-acre lot with a HT room below the garage room surrounded with solid concrete and earth on all sides...link below), but often times I think that the best compromise of all things considered would be a huge bonus room in a house with a large amount of land (5+ acres)for the sound to dissipate...no extraordinary (expensive) sound control measures needed and great SQ from the limp, lossy walls.
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post #7 of 21 Old 01-21-2017, 01:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Aaron Smith View Post
I really like your space. I have a soft spot for rooms over the garage and love the 'hangoutability' (as long as we're making up words ) that they offer. Must be the angled ceilings...

I really like your 2.0 upgraded equipment list as well! Should be unreal in a compact space like that. Bonus rooms like this tend to have great tactile response due to their floating nature (as you're well aware of with the UM's I'm sure), and the 8-18's should get things moving big-time! The 4722's will rip your face off if you let them too.

The question is, how do you plan to contain all of that firepower being that the room is finished? I had a bonus room in my last house and had planned a high power theater for it, but testing with some of the planned equipment in the room proved that it was going to be exceedingly difficult to not pi$$ off the neighbors in all directions (suburban neighborhood with 1/3-1/2 acre lots). This (and other factors) led to the room never getting off the ground. The walkout basement where the 'temporary' (for 10 years ) setup was located was infinitely better at containing sound even though it had a whole wall of windows at ground level at the back of the room. My bonus room wasn't finished using any sound containment strategies, but I've read enough to know that even if it was, it could only have helped so much.

Not trying to dissuade you from the project...perhaps you are out in the country or something, or have enough of a buffer to not be 'that guy'? Lucky if so! I've since embarked on a new project that was intended to contain the collateral damage caused by having fun with my gear (new house on a 1-acre lot with a HT room below the garage room surrounded with solid concrete and earth on all sides...link below), but often times I think that the best compromise of all things considered would be a huge bonus room in a house with a large amount of land (5+ acres)for the sound to dissipate...no extraordinary (expensive) sound control measures needed and great SQ from the limp, lossy walls.
Thanks @Aaron Smith for the compliments and man I love the new word that's hilarious Hangoutability is indeed a good way to describe the room now haha. It's cozy up there and a good place to hide when things get crazy in the rest of the house. Whenever I have friends over for a movie night they never want to leave. Wait, maybe I should rethink this as it might not be a good thing..... They're typically bugging me for when the next movie night will be lol, it's all in good fun though

The cool thing about the room is that it's almost completely isolated from the other living spaces and even to the outside due to massive amounts of attic space around most of it. The back wall of the stairwell is the only one that's shared with the the rest of the house. I have plans to isolate that wall and the back wall of the theater room to avoid annoying the kids at night. Right now even with no treatments (beside insulation inside the walls) it's not so bad, but eventually I plan to tear out the drywall in the stairwell to install isolation clips and redo the insulation. I'll also add a thick sealed door at the landing in the stairwell which will help as well.

The noise pollution to the outside of the house will not be a huge deal, fortunately. We live in a neighborhood where the lots range from 3-10+ acres so the houses are really spread apart. The closest house to us is probably 500-600 feet but they're also about +/- 100 foot change in elevation too. It's on the side of a mountain so the terrain helps in that regard. In the year or so we've had the system there's never been a complaint and I've asked them specifically if they ever hear any bass coming from the house.

I think the biggest thing I'll have to deal with is the windows behind the screen. I plan to make some plywood plugs with OC703 inside to avoid too much sound bleeding out the front of the house. On top of that there will be (2) 1" layers of linacoustic covering the front wall which will definitely help with noise bleeding outside. I realize it won't stop everything but even now with no treatment over the windows it's surprisingly not very loud on the outside. I think it helps a lot that there are no speakers pointing toward them.

Last edited by turbonut; 01-21-2017 at 02:09 PM.
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post #8 of 21 Old 01-21-2017, 03:49 PM
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The cool thing about the room is that it's almost completely isolated from the other living spaces and even to the outside due to massive amounts of attic space around most of it. The back wall of the stairwell is the only one that's shared with the the rest of the house. I have plans to isolate that wall and the back wall of the theater room to avoid annoying the kids at night. Right now even with no treatments (beside insulation inside the walls) it's not so bad, but eventually I plan to tear out the drywall in the stairwell to install isolation clips and redo the insulation. I'll also add a thick sealed door at the landing in the stairwell which will help as well.

The noise pollution to the outside of the house will not be a huge deal, fortunately. We live in a neighborhood where the lots range from 3-10+ acres so the houses are really spread apart. The closest house to us is probably 500-600 feet but they're also about +/- 100 foot change in elevation too. It's on the side of a mountain so the terrain helps in that regard. In the year or so we've had the system there's never been a complaint and I've asked them specifically if they ever hear any bass coming from the house.
Exactly how my room was set up. Sound just bled right out of the structure though...the fact that I was going to run a big IB subwoofer setup would have made it 10x worse.

That's awesome that you have the huge lot with undulating terrain...envious for sure. Pretty much makes the annoyance factor to the neighbors a moot point. I bet I had 20-25 houses within 5-600 feet.

Quote:
I think the biggest thing I'll have to deal with is the windows behind the screen. I plan to make some plywood plugs with OC703 inside to avoid too much sound bleeding out the front of the house. On top of that there will be (2) 1" layers of linacoustic covering the front wall which will definitely help with noise bleeding outside. I realize it won't stop everything but even now with no treatment over the windows it's surprisingly not very loud on the outside. I think it helps a lot that there are no speakers pointing toward them.
Sounds like a good idea...many examples here on the forum. I had 3 large 6-8' tall arched windows in my old bonus room and was just going to baffle wall them off...they would have been a serious hindrance to viewing any type of screen in the room (not too mention a serious source of heat gain in the room). The new bonus room is 31'x16' with two 10'x10' dormers; a real fun space. The only two windows are a 4'x5' in each dormer.

Finally getting around to hooking up the system in this room today after moving in a few months ago (LS-6 mains, pair of Picowreckers for now)...a large box containing my Onkyo's remote and a bunch of important wire/cables was missing and just turned up this after being unburied in the garage.

One thing from your post piqued my interest...mountains in North Carolina???
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post #9 of 21 Old 01-21-2017, 06:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Exactly how my room was set up. Sound just bled right out of the structure though...the fact that I was going to run a big IB subwoofer setup would have made it 10x worse.

That's awesome that you have the huge lot with undulating terrain...envious for sure. Pretty much makes the annoyance factor to the neighbors a moot point. I bet I had 20-25 houses within 5-600 feet.

Sounds like a good idea...many examples here on the forum. I had 3 large 6-8' tall arched windows in my old bonus room and was just going to baffle wall them off...they would have been a serious hindrance to viewing any type of screen in the room (not too mention a serious source of heat gain in the room). The new bonus room is 31'x16' with two 10'x10' dormers; a real fun space. The only two windows are a 4'x5' in each dormer.
Haha, an IB subwoofer design would have certainly been a challenge to isolate from the neighbors. The new bonus room and also the basement theater sounds like an awesome space! I checked out your thread and man you have a beautiful place there. Would love to see some pics with your latest updates up in there

Now I realize the best way to isolate a room is with isolation clips and sealing. But if you're like me and too lazy to tear everything up, in FROG rooms like ours I bet some spray foam in the attic walls/roof would help quite a bit due to its mass and absorption characteristics. Either way I'm currently looking at doing this in our attic mainly because the previous owners did a poor job insulating the attic and we need some R value up there. Similar to this:



Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Smith View Post
Finally getting around to hooking up the system in this room today after moving in a few months ago (LS-6 mains, pair of Picowreckers for now)...a large box containing my Onkyo's remote and a bunch of important wire/cables was missing and just turned up this after being unburied in the garage.

One thing from your post piqued my interest...mountains in North Carolina???
That's exciting! Moving is my least favorite thing to do, but when you finally find your toys which have been buried in crap for months it's a great feeling getting them out and all set up again

Yep contrary to popular belief there are actually mountains in North Carolina! But shhhhh don't tell anyone, we don't need more yuppies moving here hahaha. This is the view from our deck, we've been blessed with some nice scenery here:



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post #10 of 21 Old 01-21-2017, 06:59 PM
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Haha, an IB subwoofer design would have certainly been a challenge to isolate from the neighbors. The new bonus room and also the basement theater sounds like an awesome space! I checked out your thread and man you have a beautiful place there. Would love to see some pics with your latest updates up in there

Now I realize the best way to isolate a room is with isolation clips and sealing. But if you're like me and too lazy to tear everything up, in FROG rooms like ours I bet some spray foam in the attic walls/roof would help quite a bit due to its mass and absorption characteristics. Either way I'm currently looking at doing this in our attic mainly because the previous owners did a poor job insulating the attic and we need some R value up there. Similar to this:
That's exciting! Moving is my least favorite thing to do, but when you finally find your toys which have been buried in crap for months it's a great feeling getting them out and all set up again

Yep contrary to popular belief there are actually mountains in North Carolina! But shhhhh don't tell anyone, we don't need more yuppies moving here hahaha. This is the view from our deck, we've been blessed with some nice scenery here:


I usually remove pictures from quoted posts, but for yours I am going to make an exception. That is some seriously fantastic scenery you have there. Okay, mountains in North Carolina exist. The mountain a couple miles behind me is 8300'...yours may not be as tall as ours, but I guess it's all relative to sea level.

We moved 3 times in 15 months while the house was being built. $ucked big time, and was complicated largely by my somewhat sizable audio and weightlifting equipment collection.

The picture you showed of the bonus room space is exactly what my current bonus room looks like (save for the HVAC line on the floor...WTF???). I'm guessing your room is insulated with fiberglass? This is the way my previous house was done (by yours truly... ...which we still own) and it's both hot in the summer and cold in the winter...foam is totally where it's at. I completely agree with you that it's silly to tear it all down...especially so given your superb lot spacing with the neighbors.

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post #11 of 21 Old 01-23-2017, 06:36 AM - Thread Starter
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I usually remove pictures from quoted posts, but for yours I am going to make an exception. That is some seriously fantastic scenery you have there. Okay, mountains in North Carolina exist. The mountain a couple miles behind me is 8300'...yours may not be as tall as ours, but I guess it's all relative to sea level.





We moved 3 times in 15 months while the house was being built. $ucked big time, and was complicated largely by my somewhat sizable audio and weightlifting equipment collection.

The picture you showed of the bonus room space is exactly what my current bonus room looks like (save for the HVAC line on the floor...WTF???). I'm guessing your room is insulated with fiberglass? This is the way my previous house was done (by yours truly... ...which we still own) and it's both hot in the summer and cold in the winter...foam is totally where it's at. I completely agree with you that it's silly to tear it all down...especially so given your superb lot spacing with the neighbors.
8300ft is really getting up there! The Appalachians are pretty mild in elevation compared to the Rockies for sure The peak off in the distance of the picture is ~5800ft, and we're sitting at an elevation of just under 3000ft so nothing too crazy.

Yep it's all fiberglass up there at the moment. They did a pretty good job insulating the bonus room itself and used R30 everywhere (which is fine for the moderate climate here). In the rest of the attic they used blow-in insulation and didn't do the best job. The bonus room really needs it's own zone but unfortunately does not. In the summer the AC tends to keep up without an issue if I keep the projector off. But after watching something for an hour it can get pretty warm up there. Fortunately we don't have the cold issue in the winter, mainly because they're pretty moderate (~45-50F peaks in the dead of winter, this year has been more like 55-60F though!).

I'll need to do something with either a mini-split or a smaller separate unit to address the summer months. It's going to be a huge chunk of change though so I've been balking so far lol
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Your view is amazing, I would lose a lot of movie viewing time just setting on that deck.
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Hi,

I like your build thread a lot, including the thread title. Self-deprecating humor has always appealed to me.

The only comment I have, at this point, involves your proposed row locations. I don't know which row will be your MLP, but the first row is almost dead-on the mid-length of the room. That will put the entire front row in a potential bass null. Ideally, you would have seating locations about 2' or more, either forward, or backward, of that mid-point of about 14'. I hope this helps, although it's probably not something you were hoping to hear.

Regards,
Mike

GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #14 of 21 Old 01-23-2017, 12:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Your view is amazing, I would lose a lot of movie viewing time just setting on that deck.


Thanks, we definitely love sitting out there taking it all in!
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post #15 of 21 Old 01-23-2017, 12:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi,

I like your build thread a lot, including the thread title. Self-deprecating humor has always appealed to me.

The only comment I have, at this point, involves your proposed row locations. I don't know which row will be your MLP, but the first row is almost dead-on the mid-length of the room. That will put the entire front row in a potential bass null. Ideally, you would have seating locations about 2' or more, either forward, or backward, of that mid-point of about 14'. I hope this helps, although it's probably not something you were hoping to hear.

Regards,
Mike
Howdy there! Hahaha, finally someone that understands

Thanks for the comments on sitting at the null! The front row is meant to be the MLP. You bring up an extremely valid concern - and one that I've been grappling with for quite some time now. You'll notice that I have some lines on the top view guiding me where to place the seating (between 10' - 13' from the front wall based on the a quick REW simulation) and a datum line at the center point of the room. In the current room the seating position of the mlp is right near 38% of the length which was my goal. In playing around with the new layout I've not been able to achieve this at all.

This was something I've been struggling with for a few reasons:
1. I'm having a hard time convincing myself to reduce the size of my screen / viewing angle in order to sit closer to the front. It's something I'll have to compromise on if I want to shoehorn those JBL's in there though, that's for certain.

2. The room is not rectangular, as the back wall varies in shape substantially. This confuses me to no end because I'm pretty sure this affects the location of the null. I guess it all comes down to taking measurements along the length of the room and doing a scientific study.

3. Originally I'd planned to put in a baffle wall but at first will probably go minimalist until I decide I like the new setup. As a result, I was (maybe incorrectly) assuming this would affect the null in the room in my favor.

So this brings up a question to ponder. If I were to incorporate a baffle wall design into the room, would this actually change the null point? In other words, would I now calculate the 'new' center of the room from the baffle wall and not the outside wall behind the screen/baffle wall?

I drew some new lines quickly on the top view to illustrate the point, what does everyone think on this? With a baffle wall, would the red line become the 'new' null point?
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Howdy there! Hahaha, finally someone that understands

Thanks for the comments on sitting at the null! The front row is meant to be the MLP. You bring up an extremely valid concern - and one that I've been grappling with for quite some time now. You'll notice that I have some lines on the top view guiding me where to place the seating (between 10' - 13' from the front wall based on the a quick REW simulation) and a datum line at the center point of the room. In the current room the seating position of the mlp is right near 38% of the length which was my goal. In playing around with the new layout I've not been able to achieve this at all.

This was something I've been struggling with for a few reasons:
1. I'm having a hard time convincing myself to reduce the size of my screen / viewing angle in order to sit closer to the front. It's something I'll have to compromise on if I want to shoehorn those JBL's in there though, that's for certain.

2. The room is not rectangular, as the back wall varies in shape substantially. This confuses me to no end because I'm pretty sure this affects the location of the null. I guess it all comes down to taking measurements along the length of the room and doing a scientific study.

3. Originally I'd planned to put in a baffle wall but at first will probably go minimalist until I decide I like the new setup. As a result, I was (maybe incorrectly) assuming this would affect the null in the room in my favor.

So this brings up a question to ponder. If I were to incorporate a baffle wall design into the room, would this actually change the null point? In other words, would I now calculate the 'new' center of the room from the baffle wall and not the outside wall behind the screen/baffle wall?

I drew some new lines quickly on the top view to illustrate the point, what does everyone think on this? With a baffle wall, would the red line become the 'new' null point?
Hi,

I'm glad I don't have to design these things for a living, because everything involves some degree of compromise. And, everyone would probably choose a slightly different place to compromise. According to Jeff Parkinson, who does design HT's for a living, a rigid baffle wall will change the place where a null is calculated, where an acoustically transparent (fabric) wall will not. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-ded...-response.html

I'm with you on wanting to maximize screen width, but leaving yourself some flexibility for front speaker placement, including proper toe-in, is also important. And, finding yourself sitting in a null in the front row would absolutely bite. So, this is one that I would probably keep pondering, perhaps with some advice from Jeff.

Regards,
Mike

GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #17 of 21 Old 02-22-2017, 10:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Since I'm basically talking to myself here, I'm adding my latest (and FINAL) design for documentation purposes. It helps me to keep a log of sorts on here to keep track of progress.

Finally made a decision on the front LCR. I've decided to go with the Titan-615LX and have my preorder in. I'll need to make a custom bottom cabinet to fit into the room but I couldn't be happier with how the layout has worked out in the end.

- LR speakers are at 60 degrees from MLP
- Front row is 2'+ from the length null of the room, with sealed door in landing of stairwell + airlock setup
- Viewing angle was maintained / same as current setup (41 degrees from MLP, 16:9)

Build posts will follow as I get the kits, probably within the next month or 2.











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post #18 of 21 Old 03-21-2017, 11:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Titan 615's are in!

We got a nice little shipment the other day, party on!


The youngest is intrigued, as evidenced by him walking into the photo op.....



The rest of the family approves of the waveguide design, which also works well as a telescope or long range viewing device:



Beautiful work by Matt @mtg90 on the crossovers!!




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post #19 of 21 Old 03-21-2017, 11:19 AM - Thread Starter
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I have 2 of the boxes together so far and will probably finish the 3rd tonight.


Gratuitous clamp overkill shot:






YAY!



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post #20 of 21 Old 05-16-2017, 09:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Lots of update photos to show:
- Titan-615's are complete
- Screen frame was modified and updated to fit the new material. I decided on Dreamscreen Ultraweave V6 and am loving it!
- Screen was hung with minimalist design

Next Steps (pretty much in this order):
- Acoustic treatments behind screen and at first reflection points
- Subs moving to front behind screen. Will build 2 ported boxes with 21DS115's later this year
- Black AT panels around screen to finish off the wall
- Adding 60A electrical sub panel to equipment closet
- Adding doors to equipment closet and open stairway

Old:




New (but not close to finished yet!):


A few pics during the process:













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post #21 of 21 Old 05-24-2017, 11:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Got the Linacoustic on the front wall and the subs moved this weekend. Ended up doing 2 layers of 1" thick separated by 3 mil plastic. Next will be masking panels around the screen, blacking out the ceiling behind screen, and the side + rear wall treatments:




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