I'll get right to it. Like many others I would not have attempted such a robust build had I not read and learned on here for what is going on 4 years now. Many of you answered my questions over that time and I am truly appreciative (Jeff, Dennis, Ted to name a few). Started construction last month (Feb 2017) and I'm currently about 50% done. We ended up going with our home builder to finish our basement with the emphasis on the theater. We looked at dedicated HT builders but they wanted the same amount of money for the theater room as others wanted for the entire basement. I knew I could save a ton of money by doing the critical things myself (clips, channel, wiring, insulation, etc). I have some construction background so I was up to the challenge. Primary usage will be gaming followed by movies.
I've learned a ton so far, every day. The one thing that sticks out the most is that many builds I've seen do not follow code, or at least my local code in the Midwest. For example, I did not want any outlets in my theater room for obvious reasons. Called inspector, forced me to put in minimum (6 for my room). Additionally, I planned on a 12" riser height but code only allows for 7 3/4" (standard step height) without resorting to rails. I could go on and on but I'll let pictures tell the story.
Link to flickr album, has ALL pictures in this thread: https://www.flickr.com/photos/214002...57680471609033
The blank slate. Dimensions are 12' x ~23' (2x6 wall is 27'). Tape outline is for a ~120" diagonal screen.
Framing up. I went back and forth between a 34" or 38" door. Chairs will be the biggest item going in and out so I settled on 34" to lessen the amount of area sound could leak out. Door will swing out to give more room for the riser.
Wired for a 7.2 setup. I made sure I could retrofit Atmos ceiling speakers but have no interest/plans for them right now. Same goes for height/wide speakers.
Backer boxes for surrounds. I looked at acoustical caulk but after much reading I decided to go with DAP Alex Flex, their most flexible latex caulk available in my area. I did not cheap out with GreenGlue because there is so much data behind it. With "acoustical caulk" I decided it was more marketing. I used 1/2" MDF since we don't have 5/8" locally.
Putty pads. Guy on ebay was selling them super cheap, got 15. This picture is before I realized they made extendable gang boxes. I eventually swapped them all out.
I'll be honest, deadvents intimidate me. This is my simple version. 2 supplies and 2 returns all using flex-vent snaked for 10-18' each. I stuffed some rockwool where I could. These will eventually be put into the 11"x16" soffits. The original plan was to add a zone to our geo heat pump but they couldn't do it without tearing everything out. The options were mini-split or keep the geo's fan on to constantly circulate air. HVAC guys gave me 200 cfm to work with, seats for 6 butts but normal seating will be for 4, maybe 8 for rare circumstances for a 253 sq ft room. I made sure I could retrofit a mini-split should the fan solution not work.
Front setup. False wall will be 20" deep. Doing a stage with sand on rubber horse mats. 2 cat6 (one for IR repeater), 2 RCA coaxial for subs and LCR speakers. Dedicated 20-amp 4-plex for subs. Plan is to build a minimum screen wall enough to mount black AT fabric.
1.5" conduit for HDMI, power and cat6. I test-ran all 3 cables before mounting. I turned the 2-gang box sideways so the scoop plate will direct the cables to the back of my projector. I plan to run an extension cable to my line conditioner/surge-protector on my rack in the mechanical room. Still going through options to cap/seal the end as sound will easily travel through this. (Edit - Thanks Dave for a good solution in post #4)
Tape is for rough riser location.
Rockwool in. Doubled up the ceiling/joists and the 2x6 wall. An extra $250 for rockwool over fiberglass was an easy decision. I can already tell a big difference with the rockwool. I can no longer hear the doorbell or my dog barking when it rings. Worked in here over the weekend and nearly missed some people. You can also see the a237r clips. I went with the staggered setup. Some corners were tight. If I had more foresight I would have installed extra studs in the corners to help with this. (Edit - I went back and added them. Just doubled up the tight corners)
Thanks to Jeff for this one. Used some RSIC-04 clips to decouple the projector mount. I measured so the first layer of drywall will lay on it. Another option is to replace the first layer of drywall with it but it's less cutting this way.
Backer boxes are decoupled with clips. Measured so they should come into the first layer for drywall but not the second. Should be a good lip to caulk between them. I'm still waiting on Elac to release their in-wall speakers so I made sure the backer boxes were oversized.
This is why you supervise the drywall guys. There were 8 of them and 1 of me (not to mention a language barrier). I didn't see him working in the rack room. Thankfully there's enough left to work with (8.2 plate).
More to come. I plan to build my own AT screen from milliskin spandex thanks to other threads on this forum. Right now I'm not doing anything fancy with the room finishes. I don't have enough width for 3-wide chairs and sconces with walking room on both sides of the chairs. This also eliminates columns as options. Surround speakers will be in-walls for the same reason. The 25 gauge hat channel is being delivered tomorrow (3/14) and the drywall guys will be coming back to finish the theater room.