Official Rhizzle Cinema build thread - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 82 Old 04-25-2017, 12:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Official Rhizzle Cinema build thread

So, after a lot of research and another thread where I rambled on and on about sporadic topics, I thought I'd start a new official build thread.

My space is currently narrow and long at 11'2" (unfinished) by 26' long.
(To finish it I need to frame out a 1" space 3.5" stud wall against the poured concrete wall) and doing 5/8 DD+GG on all 4 sides which will reduce my width to 10'7" wide.)

I'm doing 2.5ft false wall out from one end because I want to be sure and have enough depth to sit at least 1 if not 2 subs. Looking at PB1000s at some point in time.

My space currently looks like this. (Note I already have a screen that I used to use in my old house's living room. Its 107" and I plan to use it for now)

[IMG][/IMG]
(looking towards the front where the screen wall will go.)


(looking towards the back of the room.


(Main waste pipe from the house, already wrapped in dynamat, will add a layer of carpet padding)


(the pesky Air Handler closet that I'm trying block sound from)



(where I just opened up several feet of the wall here. This will be where the access doors go to the theatre, just inches back from the screen wall)

Note, I've just drylocked the concrete in these photos, ready to frame. Still have more pipes to wrap in dynamat and carpet padding.


I also took pieces of sheetrock, and worked them to the back side of that existing wall, and screwed them to the studs. There is also a sheet of dynamat on the sheetrock facing towards the Air handler. In retrospect I probably should have put it ON the airhandler, but I could possibly get more and work a piece in from the AC handler side later.

Once I got this sheetrock in there, I mud spackled all the cracks to seal it up as much as possible. Its already better but a long way to go.
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post #2 of 82 Old 04-25-2017, 12:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Can anyone help me with posting photos of the build? I posted pictures up at imgur, and inserted those links, and it put them in with [IMG] and [/IMG] tags, but it just shows those small grey boxes instead of the imbedded pictures.
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post #3 of 82 Old 04-25-2017, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhizzlebop View Post
Can anyone help me with posting photos of the build? I posted pictures up at imgur, and inserted those links, and it put them in with [IMG] and [/IMG] tags, but it just shows those small grey boxes instead of the imbedded pictures.

The problem is, avsforum doesn't know how to embed the links you links. You linked to essentially the gallery of your pictures, whereas, avs expects a direct link to a .jpg/.gif/etc.

To fixe it go to your gallery and right click on each individual picture and select "copy image address" (assuming you are using chrome. If you paste that some where else it should have a .jpg at the end. That is what you need between the [ img ] tags.

edit so I right click on the first one, and get: http://i.imgur.com/OPurLn2.jpg, which displays as:



and second is http://i.imgur.com/ybiUCnn.jpg, or:

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post #4 of 82 Old 04-25-2017, 01:31 PM
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Also, seeing as I can now see those images embedded in avsforum, they are a bit large to have displayed automatically.

I think it's worth while to continue uploading your images to imgur since that gives a free way to link them, and it doesn't seem to be going anywhere in the future. But, I'd also recommend uploading the photos directly to AVS, since it links them as attachments instead. It generally resizes them to an easier size that makes viewing mobile a little easier.
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post #5 of 82 Old 04-25-2017, 01:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sigma722 View Post
Also, seeing as I can now see those images embedded in avsforum, they are a bit large to have displayed automatically.

I think it's worth while to continue uploading your images to imgur since that gives a free way to link them, and it doesn't seem to be going anywhere in the future. But, I'd also recommend uploading the photos directly to AVS, since it links them as attachments instead. It generally resizes them to an easier size that makes viewing mobile a little easier.


Thanks.
I didn't realize I had to attach them, and then right click the attached text to get the AVS hosted URL, and THEN use THAT URL in the imbed image tag button to get it to post.

Does this method mean they wont disappear from the thread in the future? (I realize IMGUR could just decide to blank accounts at some point due to dormancy.
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post #6 of 82 Old 04-25-2017, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhizzlebop View Post
Thanks.
I didn't realize I had to attach them, and then right click the attached text to get the AVS hosted URL, and THEN use THAT URL in the imbed image tag button to get it to post.

Does this method mean they wont disappear from the thread in the future? (I realize IMGUR could just decide to blank accounts at some point due to dormancy.
Technically any site can decide to no longer host images. You are more likely to be safe with your image hosting if you are paying for the service, and at least then, they would likely have to inform you that they are no longer going to host your content.

Old avs build threads are riddled with the problem of people using their own web servers or older image hosting sites, and them changing their mind or not resubscribing etc, and it effectively breaks their threads. Now that AVS hosts their own images, you are probably pretty safe there for a while.

I don't think there is a "perfect" way though to make your thread/images hosting be perfect forever. I'd venture to say that your pictures are safe on avs as long as avs keeps running though. If you were to lose one, you were probably going to be losing both.
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post #7 of 82 Old 04-25-2017, 07:25 PM
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Looks like you will have to have some nice soffits that can perform multi-function of hiding piping along with hold some lighting. Also, looks like you have a supply from the HVAC into the room already, is there a return? If not, you may want to consider adding one before you button that wall completely up to the 'pesky Air Handler'

Overall, you can have a good space. your room is very similar in size to the one i am doing now. I always tell myself that 'it has to get worse before it get's better.' you will get there.. I think if you do it right, you will have a good room to enjoy.

One last thing, you might wanna cover the screen in there.. wouldn't want anything getting on it.

Looking forward to watching your build.

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post #8 of 82 Old 04-26-2017, 05:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sirjaymz View Post
Looks like you will have to have some nice soffits that can perform multi-function of hiding piping along with hold some lighting. Also, looks like you have a supply from the HVAC into the room already, is there a return? If not, you may want to consider adding one before you button that wall completely up to the 'pesky Air Handler'

Overall, you can have a good space. your room is very similar in size to the one i am doing now. I always tell myself that 'it has to get worse before it get's better.' you will get there.. I think if you do it right, you will have a good room to enjoy.

One last thing, you might wanna cover the screen in there.. wouldn't want anything getting on it.

Looking forward to watching your build.
Thanks. Do you have a build thread?

I am very worried about the narrowness of the room. I'm sitting here contemplating trying to rip 2x4 lumber and frame the long wall to save 2", and cut the 1" wall gap to .5". But then, I think, will 2" really make much diff?

I'm looking at about 10'7.5" finished if I go standard framing, and probably 4" columns.

My plan is, at column and speaker install time, I'll cut into the double sheetrock, a square, and install an MDF recessed box into the cutout giving me a cubby hole for a speaker to sit. If the MDF goes in JUST BARELY not touching the concrete wall, (like 1/4" off) then that gives me 3.5" stud depth,plus 1.25" sheetrock plus 4" column depth, so 8.75" for a speaker to sit behind a speaker grill in the column.

The opposite wall is 2x6 framed so I have just as much room to work with.

I just have to be sure that where I cut a hole in the sheetrock, I make the box thick, and seal it well.

Where would you suggest a return air duct and how would you do it?
I have never built a duct, or installed one. Would it be made from faced OC703 and just make a plenum pass to get out into the adjacent space where the actual unit return and filter is? I originally thought just a transfer grill, but all this noise isolation talk has changed that, and I forgot to get back to addressing the return air. Thoughts?
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post #9 of 82 Old 04-26-2017, 05:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Here is a layout of what I am currently planning.

My room is long, but I have big goals, so I wish it were a couple more feet.



So, The room is pretty much all to scale except for that second door to the theatre thats "above" the AC closet. The edge of that door will fall at 7'6" off the finished back wall, and on this plan it looks to be around 9' off.

I REALLY want 3 rows, and I'm not greatly concerned about the accoustics of the back row. That row will mostly get used for football parties, or maybe less interested parents of kids at a kids party, so they will get what sound they get.

With that said, I realize a back row sofa or theatre seats will be 6-10" off the back wall face.

Looking at a 7ft rear riser (20" tall) and a 6' front riser (10" tall), that puts the front of the front riser at less than 10' off the false screen wall.

I want to have 2 chairs down on the main floor in front of that riser. I already own a La Z boy recliner that I will use for one of those, and will need to acquire another. My primary seats will be the middle row, where I want a nice 3 seat wide theatre seat set.

The rear row MAY be more theatre seats, or might piece together something modular from Ikea thats comfortable for overflow seating (wouldn't recline). But I want to the build that riser for the future where I may have more theatre seats back there that DO recline.

This is putting my first row chairs VERY close to the screen. This screen is currently 107" diag. In the future I may bump up to around 120" if it fits the room, but thats a few years down the rd.

Whats the closest that front row can sit and me comfy? Also might end up with a couple bean bags on the floor down front for kids.

The "stage" is going to have to be VERY small to not look like its too close to the first chairs.

I'd like a little better riser layout but cant figure what makes the most sense. I want that second door back there, and I'd like to keep a slab floor surface from door to door so little kids can make their way around the "loop" without having to climb risers.

I think the first riser step needs to be in the middle front, not the side.

The 102" width there should be plenty of room for a 3 seat theatre row and still have a step down to access the second door. This way, during a movie back row people don't have to come all the way to the front to exit, and middle row people can go to the front or the side depending how kids are sitting on beanbags.

Thoughts?
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post #10 of 82 Old 04-26-2017, 05:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Here is a layout that moves the lower 5" high step down front. I made it a curve thats 26" wide by 8"-9" deep in the middle.



Then on the side of the first riser, I did a curved step at 18" x10" off the corner for middle row side door access.

Would do similar at the back row.

Thoughts?

Notice, I also plugged in a couple 34" squares to simulate the scale size of a couple recliner chairs there. I might would have that front step riser carpeted and installed separately to give me flexibility for a loveseat in that area later if I needed to change it.
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post #11 of 82 Old 04-26-2017, 09:44 AM
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Now I see why you want to go with a drop ceiling to avoid all the stuff hanging below the joist. Is you 107" counting the pipes and duct work below the joist?

With a 20" riser in the back you will have about 7' or a little less for clearance I believe. I was wanting a third seating row as well and my room is a little of 26' long, but if I do it would put the back row right under the the rear surround so I thinking of going with bar top with stoles to get away from the back wall and and not have such a high riser in the back.

It is good to see pictures now and it sounds like you have a plan. I keep changing mine, but hopefully will decide on one soon.

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post #12 of 82 Old 04-26-2017, 10:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladeback View Post
Now I see why you want to go with a drop ceiling to avoid all the stuff hanging below the joist. Is you 107" counting the pipes and duct work below the joist?

With a 20" riser in the back you will have about 7' or a little less for clearance I believe. I was wanting a third seating row as well and my room is a little of 26' long, but if I do it would put the back row right under the the rear surround so I thinking of going with bar top with stoles to get away from the back wall and and not have such a high riser in the back.

It is good to see pictures now and it sounds like you have a plan. I keep changing mine, but hopefully will decide on one soon.
Yes, the avoid it, but also to not conceal it behind drywall. I realize the room will be a little louder. Further, if I do proper soundproofing of the walls now, and in 4-5 years f I'm displeased with the drop ceiling, I can come back and redo the ceiling, and sound proof it and be a 100% locked up tight room.

However, if i half ass the other aspects today, I can never sound proof it properly.

With all those pipes, I want to maintain access to that stuff relatively easy. While there COULD be a broken pipe at some point, there could also be a need for a new pipe for relocating my laundry room as I plan to do in a few years. Maintaining access will make that a lot easier.

The actual bottom of the joists are at 8'10"-8'11".
The pipes that hang below are at about 8'7" clear (Not counting stuff near the edge of the room where soffits will go). So, I'm hoping to slide in at 8'6" in the front 2/3 of the room.

For the rear 1/3, there are NO pipes in the middle area (inside the soffit edges), which means I hope I can squeeze 8'8"-8'9" clear there.

Yes, I'll then have 7ft clear under the ceiling, and 6'4" clear under the soffits (unless I step down at the back a couple more inches.

I origianlly planned for a bar and snack area. After everyone in the dedicated theatre forum said NO snack bar or popcorn inside the movie room, I dumped that whole area in favor of comfy seating.

We aren't drinkers, and while some will drink at our house, a bar just didn't seem like comfortable seating so I just ditched it.

I know the back row will be under the surround, but so what? They will be alright.

To that point, I'm looking for some cool column designs for the rear specifically whereas I can keep them VERY shallow at the seat back height, but then they get deeper above that height to allow for greater depth to conceal rear surround speakers. Similar to what I discussed for the side surrounds, except the rear surrounds could be 10-12" deep speakers, so I need the column to come out further, along with a framed wall box into the sheetrock to conceal it.

I'm wondering if I should bite the bullet and buy a table saw? I have a hand skill saw, a jig saw, a sawsall, a dual bevel 12" compound miter saw, but wondering if I'll end up with enough ripping to justify owning a table saw for this build.


As for false walls, I see a lot of talk about 2' of depth. However, the PB1000 subs I've looked at seem to be around 28" deep. I'm afraid if I don't make it at least 30" clear space behind, I'll end up too shallow at some point. I'd love to squeeze it down and get another 6" for the mid riser, but can't see how I can make that work.
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post #13 of 82 Old 04-26-2017, 11:07 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm also looking for a few design ideas. I'll add some photos of the current pool table room thats immediately outside where I opened up the wall and put in the header seen in photos above.
EVENTUALLY I'd like to incorporate that space into the theme. Possibly I should go ahead and drop wire for wall sconces right OUTSIDE the theatre so that the theme starts before you enter? Or at the top or bottom of my stairs to the basement? to extend the theme further?

As for room design, I'd like some ideas on colors and finishes.
I found this sconce in another guys post.


He talked about going for this Indiana jones/mummy theme with colors etc. I thought it was REALLY cool.

I also found this guys soffit which is AWESOME. Its part of the design detail, not just a soffit.



I want to do my soffit like this whereas I want to use some base trapping, as well as can lights, as well as an inner floating edge for LED strip lighting. What I don't know is why did his face panels need to be so thick and heavy with 3/4 MDF. Why not thinner? Or for the base trap sections, can I just fabric wrap rigid foam insulation panels and use velcro? Did he not do that because his panels are just open frames covered, and only batt up behind it becasue rigid foam is so pricy?

I also really like this guys sound absorption panel design. It looks very star trek to me.


My apologies on the terrible picture and its sideways. Not sure how to fix it.

Are those rigid foam or soft duct liner inside a frame?

These columns are kinda cool. Fairly simple, shallow, thought they were nice. I like the transluscent panel to add light up and down the column without a sconce sticking out making a narrow room even more narrow.



I'm also a BIG sports fan, and especially my USC Gamecocks, so NO ORANGE permitted whatsoever, and garnet is a plus but not required.

Lastly, the opposing challenge here is my wife pictures this more as a bright and airy hangout room. I picture it as a room that when finished you'll feel like you're in another world, a disney ride, a theme place from far far away. She said "it needs to match the decor of the rest of the house. I told her if it did match, then I failed at the design of it.

I want it to feel like walking to another place. Like I could totally see coming down the basement stairs looking like walking into a castle dungeon, or onto a holideck. (If I knew how to create such a feel). I'm not a designer, i'm an engineer who is VERY function over form, so I need lots of input and suggestions.
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post #14 of 82 Old 04-26-2017, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhizzlebop View Post
Yes, the avoid it, but also to not conceal it behind drywall. I realize the room will be a little louder. Further, if I do proper soundproofing of the walls now, and in 4-5 years f I'm displeased with the drop ceiling, I can come back and redo the ceiling, and sound proof it and be a 100% locked up tight room.

However, if i half ass the other aspects today, I can never sound proof it properly.

With all those pipes, I want to maintain access to that stuff relatively easy. While there COULD be a broken pipe at some point, there could also be a need for a new pipe for relocating my laundry room as I plan to do in a few years. Maintaining access will make that a lot easier.

The actual bottom of the joists are at 8'10"-8'11".
The pipes that hang below are at about 8'7" clear (Not counting stuff near the edge of the room where soffits will go). So, I'm hoping to slide in at 8'6" in the front 2/3 of the room.

For the rear 1/3, there are NO pipes in the middle area (inside the soffit edges), which means I hope I can squeeze 8'8"-8'9" clear there.

Yes, I'll then have 7ft clear under the ceiling, and 6'4" clear under the soffits (unless I step down at the back a couple more inches.

I origianlly planned for a bar and snack area. After everyone in the dedicated theatre forum said NO snack bar or popcorn inside the movie room, I dumped that whole area in favor of comfy seating.

We aren't drinkers, and while some will drink at our house, a bar just didn't seem like comfortable seating so I just ditched it.

I know the back row will be under the surround, but so what? They will be alright.

To that point, I'm looking for some cool column designs for the rear specifically whereas I can keep them VERY shallow at the seat back height, but then they get deeper above that height to allow for greater depth to conceal rear surround speakers. Similar to what I discussed for the side surrounds, except the rear surrounds could be 10-12" deep speakers, so I need the column to come out further, along with a framed wall box into the sheetrock to conceal it.

I'm wondering if I should bite the bullet and buy a table saw? I have a hand skill saw, a jig saw, a sawsall, a dual bevel 12" compound miter saw, but wondering if I'll end up with enough ripping to justify owning a table saw for this build.


As for false walls, I see a lot of talk about 2' of depth. However, the PB1000 subs I've looked at seem to be around 28" deep. I'm afraid if I don't make it at least 30" clear space behind, I'll end up too shallow at some point. I'd love to squeeze it down and get another 6" for the mid riser, but can't see how I can make that work.

When I said bar I was meaning something like this.


Or this. This is kind of what I am looking to build. My candy/snacks will be out in the lobby/entry way I will build. I am not sure I would have a popcorn maker when my wife is fine with microwave popcorn and that would be in our game room when it is done. I have attached my current idea for my theater. I like this one because it seems more balanced with boxing in the two beams running the length of my house.



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post #15 of 82 Old 04-26-2017, 01:09 PM - Thread Starter
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When I said bar I was meaning something like this.
Dude, those look amazing. Very high end looking rooms. Frankly, they look like 30-40K theatre rooms. Way beyond my budget.

Personally, for my taste, I still feel like the bar seating is not comfy movie seating. Eh, worst case, I can always add a bar later if I want.

I wish some other folks would chime in on my thread! No offense, but the collective think is more powerful than the singular.

I'm trying to frame walls this weekend. Will be having a guy quote sheetrock and electrical rough in hopefully next week.

You think its reasonable to not penetrate the sheetrock at all and have them sheetrock, and then just drop 12/2 and 14/2 wire down inside the sheetrock where the columns will go, and I'll add my outlets there, cans in the soffits, so still inside the sheetrock, and ceiling cans, essentially everything inside the envelope?

I'm looking at probably 8 switches that will go on the wall I have to build right beside the fridge, just OUTSIDE the theatre. Those circuit wires will have to pop into the sheetrocked room, but can caulk those.

I can't figure a better place to put the switches. I'm probably going with Zwave smart switches and that way I can control all the zones with scenes by linking the circuits to the smart switches. Still trying to figure exactly how that will work, but I think if I essentially wire 8 switches there, wired to hard circuits, I think I can have scene buttons on the face of those switches that when I press one scene, it basically activates several of those switches to generate a scene.

8 smart switches like that is about $450 bucks I think.

Thinking maybe even themed sconces right outside the room to add to the experience.

Thinking a snack cabinet like your photo above showed on the wall beside the pool table.
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post #16 of 82 Old 04-27-2017, 08:42 AM - Thread Starter
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What are yalls thoughts on running all of my electrical wiring within the double sheetrocked surfaces? Just basically get the main wires from the panel int othe room, seal the small holes, and then route all the high voltage in the soffits and drop down on the face of the wall within column locations to keep from penetrating the wall?

Of course for the riser, I would come down inside the sheetrock, and turn out in conduit to under the risers to get outlets on the risers.

I bought some hangers that mount to stud faces that separate wires and you can string them along horizontally this way.
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post #17 of 82 Old 04-28-2017, 12:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Not getting a lot of traction in this thread from the community. You guys are also, I hope you'll come to this thread and share.

'm trying to get a handle on the acoustic insulation I need (board and linaccoustic).

Locally I can only find Certainteed (item number 708305) 1.5" thick in 4x10ft sheets I believe its foil faced at $52 a sheet.

Not locally, but will dorp off to me, I found 6 pc boxes of foil faced 2'x4' 1" thick OC703 for 64 a box OTD.

Everyone else I've calls says they don't see much of that stuff, its special order, yada yada.

Online I found at buyinsolationproductsonline (dot) com they have 1" 2" 4" faced and unfaced OC703 for anywhere from $52-75 per box, BUT for ONE BOX its around $35 shipping.

For 4 BOX BUNDLES its around 80 shipping.

For ductliner, the guy that will drop off can get JM Linacoustic to me, 100' x 4' roll for $295 total.

Locally they want $325 for a similar product.

On that website above, they have a 25'x4' roll of duct liner for $40 plus some shipping.

What do I really need for my room? This is supposed to be a room on a budget but with DD+GG, 2 risers, carpet, soffits, etcetc etc, about 10 big bags of pink fluffy and EVERYTHING else, this room is knocking on the door of 10K it looks like.

Anyhow, so for my wall behind the screen, I'm confused if I should specifically use Linacoustic which means about 100 sqft 1" thick, line the wall, and be done or if it needs to be 2" thick or if I should just used 1" or 2" unfaced OC703, stick a layer of clear plastic poly over it (or between it) and wish it well?
Maybe cover it in cheap black cloth?

For my soffits, I want to do base trapping as shown above, and I will need some THIN accoustic panels on the walls. My room is narrow so no room for 4"-8" thick panels on the walls. maybe 1-2" is all.

Can someone summarize how much of this stuff I really need?
What do I need?

If I do the soffits, and base trap the bottom with fabric wrapped panels, do I need to cut out MDF frames and wrap those and fill the centers with rigid duct insulation? Or just cut OC703, fabric wrap that and velcro it into the bottom of the soffit?
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post #18 of 82 Old 05-01-2017, 08:34 AM - Thread Starter
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I found a local place that has 2" thick linacoustic 4ft x 50ft for $240 a roll. Or 2 hours away I found 1" thick 4x100 for $300 a roll.

Will I need Linacoustic or similar anywhere else besides behind the screen wall? Will 2" thick be best?

I found a local place with Certainteed rigid duct board (don't carry OC703) in 1" faced sheets for 4x10ft at $52 a sheet.

I havn't figured out yet however if that is the same 3lb density stuff as the OC703?

Also not sure how much of that I'll need as I'm not sure everywhere I'll need it.

For the soffit base traps do I fill with pink fluffy and use the rigid duct liner for the face panels of the soffit? (sitting in an MDF frame and wrapped in cloth??)
...or do I use the linacoustic sitting in a frame and wrapped in cloth?
...or do I just stuff the soffit with pink, and then wrap an MDF frame in cloth and no other insulation product in the panel?

Thanks
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post #19 of 82 Old 12-06-2017, 01:36 PM - Thread Starter
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An update:
I've been slowly working on the build over the months but with a 2 year old, and our second son born in August its been slow slow progress.

I finally have the soffits basically built. All electrical run, panel etc all done. Screen wall framing is mostly up, and the behind the screen wall is all done with linacoustic.

Risers are done, and the lighting around the risers are done.

At this stage I'm ready to start the ceiling install, and the bottom of the siffit and light tray creation.

Im attempting to attach an image here where I modeled the room and looking for suggestions on color.

Essentially, the ceiling will be black Ceilume stratford tiles, and the walls are gonna be a light grey acoustimac fabric.

The soffit will be 18" wide to the inner edge of the light tray, a 3" tall light tray face, and then the soffit will be 3 more inches taller than/behind that.

I was thinking the bottom and light tray edge of the soffit should be the same grey as the wall fabric, and the vertical face of the soffit in behind the light tray should be the same black as the ceiling.
Suggestions? good bad? indifferent?

If i go with this, the fabric sections in the soffit bottom should be a grey fabric to blend in, or black fabric light the soffit picture i imbedded up a few posts above? That's sort of the look i'm going for, but I think in that photo his soffit isnt painted yet and I'm not sure what color it ended up being.
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post #20 of 82 Old 12-07-2017, 01:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Any feedback is appreciated. Not sure why this thread seems to get such little traction. I know I'm not building a 100K room, but I do appreciate the inputs here on the forum.
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post #21 of 82 Old 12-11-2017, 07:03 AM
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Hey Rhizzlebop,

I'm in a very similar boat -- modest build, slow progress (we also have a two year old and also just added twins in August), and not much traction in my build thread. Just letting you know I'm following along!

I'll add my two cents on a few things you were looking for feedback on:

Quote:
I was thinking the bottom and light tray edge of the soffit should be the same grey as the wall fabric, and the vertical face of the soffit in behind the light tray should be the same black as the ceiling.
Suggestions? good bad? indifferent?
This is exactly what I'm doing -- I bounced around on doing fabric for the vertical face since I'm also using my soffits for bass traps, but in the end I landed on just painting the vertical face the same flat black as the ceiling - I think this will really make the ceiling disappear above the light tray. I'm doing black velvet on the bottom face to open up the traps, but I think gray GOM or something matching your wall or acoustic panels would look great too.

Quote:
For the soffit base traps do I fill with pink fluffy and use the rigid duct liner for the face panels of the soffit? (sitting in an MDF frame and wrapped in cloth??)
...or do I use the linacoustic sitting in a frame and wrapped in cloth?
...or do I just stuff the soffit with pink, and then wrap an MDF frame in cloth and no other insulation product in the panel?
I used 2" semi-rigid mineral wool on the outside edges to create a stable surface for the fabric panels to butt up against, and then stuffed the inner cavity with pink fluffy. I'll build the fabric panels out of poplar, wrap with velvet, and probably fasten them to the soffit framing with heavy duty velcro for accessibility later on. My insulation is in place, so I'll post pics on my build thread later if you're interested.

Re: insulation products in general, my advice is not to overthink it too much. I spun my wheels for a long time trying to find the exact products that I saw in other builds (OC703, Linacoustic, etc.) and it turned out to be a real pain - nobody carries this stuff in my area. I ended up calling around to various commercial supply shops and found products that were equivalent, or close enough at least, without having to pay crazy shipping costs or buying huge quantities. FWIW, I'm using Roxul ProRox SL as an alternative to OC703/705, and using Knauf Atmosphere duct liner as an alternative to Linacoustic. Both are sold in 24"x48" semi-rigid panels and you can buy them by the case (10-20 "boards" each depending on thickness).

You're doing good work, keep it up...

Cheers,
Mark
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Hey Rhizzlebop,

I'm in a very similar boat -- modest build, slow progress (we also have a two year old and also just added twins in August), and not much traction in my build thread. Just letting you know I'm following along!

I'll add my two cents on a few things you were looking for feedback on:


This is exactly what I'm doing -- I bounced around on doing fabric for the vertical face since I'm also using my soffits for bass traps, but in the end I landed on just painting the vertical face the same flat black as the ceiling - I think this will really make the ceiling disappear above the light tray. I'm doing black velvet on the bottom face to open up the traps, but I think gray GOM or something matching your wall or acoustic panels would look great too.


I used 2" semi-rigid mineral wool on the outside edges to create a stable surface for the fabric panels to butt up against, and then stuffed the inner cavity with pink fluffy. I'll build the fabric panels out of poplar, wrap with velvet, and probably fasten them to the soffit framing with heavy duty velcro for accessibility later on. My insulation is in place, so I'll post pics on my build thread later if you're interested.

Re: insulation products in general, my advice is not to overthink it too much. I spun my wheels for a long time trying to find the exact products that I saw in other builds (OC703, Linacoustic, etc.) and it turned out to be a real pain - nobody carries this stuff in my area. I ended up calling around to various commercial supply shops and found products that were equivalent, or close enough at least, without having to pay crazy shipping costs or buying huge quantities. FWIW, I'm using Roxul ProRox SL as an alternative to OC703/705, and using Knauf Atmosphere duct liner as an alternative to Linacoustic. Both are sold in 24"x48" semi-rigid panels and you can buy them by the case (10-20 "boards" each depending on thickness).

You're doing good work, keep it up...

Cheers,
Mark

Thank you for the kind words. I'd love to read your build thread. Please share a link.

A buddy of mine suggested painting the bottom and light trey edge of my soffit a garnet color that matches the garnet fabric inserts that will go in my columns.

My wife has been skeptical from the beginning about the black ceiling, and grey fabric walls. She wanted light and airy.

Wondering if maybe the garnet soffit will add a little more color pop that shed like, or just look tacky.

Im planning to just use pink fluffy, fill the soffits, and make square framed panels wrapped in black fabric to go in the base trap slots in the bottom of my soffit.

I'm ready to get this rooom back to functional. I started in March, and dont want this to be a year. My 2 year old son, comes home and when he doesnt see me he goes to the basement door to call for me! I really dont spend that much time down there, but apparently its enough that he notices. Its a disaster so he cant come down there. I'm ready to get this room and the play room beside it functional for him to come down and play!!
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Originally Posted by Rhizzlebop View Post
Not sure why this thread seems to get such little traction.
One thing that I think might help is updating your site signature with a link to the "Official Rhizzle Cinema". That way when you are weighing in on other threads, people might see that, then go ahead and click on yours, and weigh in back.

Side note, where are you located? I may have missed it earlier
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post #24 of 82 Old 12-12-2017, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhizzlebop View Post
An update:
Essentially, the ceiling will be black Ceilume stratford tiles, and the walls are gonna be a light grey acoustimac fabric.

The soffit will be 18" wide to the inner edge of the light tray, a 3" tall light tray face, and then the soffit will be 3 more inches taller than/behind that.

I was thinking the bottom and light tray edge of the soffit should be the same grey as the wall fabric, and the vertical face of the soffit in behind the light tray should be the same black as the ceiling.
Suggestions? good bad? indifferent?

If i go with this, the fabric sections in the soffit bottom should be a grey fabric to blend in, or black fabric light the soffit picture i imbedded up a few posts above? That's sort of the look i'm going for, but I think in that photo his soffit isnt painted yet and I'm not sure what color it ended up being.
One thing to think about is reflective materials near your screen. The bottom surface of your soffit in the front will be right next to the screen, and if you go with a lighter color, it will reflect more light than a black material. This can be a little distracting when watching a movie. It can also reflect light back onto the screen and lower contrast. I would go with black fabric at least in the front near the screen.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sigma722 View Post
One thing that I think might help is updating your site signature with a link to the "Official Rhizzle Cinema". That way when you are weighing in on other threads, people might see that, then go ahead and click on yours, and weigh in back.

Side note, where are you located? I may have missed it earlier

Thanks, I'll try to figure out where to add that link you mentioned. Good idea though!

I'm near Columbia SC.
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post #26 of 82 Old 12-12-2017, 11:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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One thing to think about is reflective materials near your screen. The bottom surface of your soffit in the front will be right next to the screen, and if you go with a lighter color, it will reflect more light than a black material. This can be a little distracting when watching a movie. It can also reflect light back onto the screen and lower contrast. I would go with black fabric at least in the front near the screen.

Thats a solid idea for sure. I wasnt planning to make my entire soffit fabric, so thinking along your idea there, not sure how to transition from a fabric covered front part, to a non fabric covered parts down the side walls in a clean manner. Maybe as simple as a trim moulding covering the edge wouldn't look bad. Not sure, but if you have any pics of this type thing, would love to see it.
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post #27 of 82 Old 12-12-2017, 11:27 AM
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Thanks, I'll try to figure out where to add that link you mentioned. Good idea though!

I'm near Columbia SC.
From regular PC you just click "User CP" in the upper right hand, and then "edit signature" from the left side.

One other thing is if you feel like you have a specific enough question that might help others, you can start a thread asking that question (after thoroughly searching first) and then incorporate what you've learned into your thread.

Then it may seem obvious, but the more you update your thread, the closer on average it will be to the top on the subforum, so browsers that are not subscribed have a better chance of happening upon your thread. That can be tricky though (congrats on the new addition), but if your thread is currently buried, it'll be tricky to get passer-bys in.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhizzlebop View Post
Thats a solid idea for sure. I wasnt planning to make my entire soffit fabric, so thinking along your idea there, not sure how to transition from a fabric covered front part, to a non fabric covered parts down the side walls in a clean manner. Maybe as simple as a trim moulding covering the edge wouldn't look bad. Not sure, but if you have any pics of this type thing, would love to see it.
Well, I just installed fabric on my front soffit this past weekend. I have yet to put up trim pieces, but that is what I plan on doing to cover the staples. Small black trim pieces on the side, line of staples in the back will be hidden by the screen frame, and in front, we stretched the fabric around the front and stapled it on the vertical portion of the soffit. We will then get a small piece of trim and bend it around the curvature of the front soffit to hide those staples as well. I have not gotten to that point in the updates in my build thread, however.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sigma722 View Post
From regular PC you just click "User CP" in the upper right hand, and then "edit signature" from the left side.

One other thing is if you feel like you have a specific enough question that might help others, you can start a thread asking that question (after thoroughly searching first) and then incorporate what you've learned into your thread.

Then it may seem obvious, but the more you update your thread, the closer on average it will be to the top on the subforum, so browsers that are not subscribed have a better chance of happening upon your thread. That can be tricky though (congrats on the new addition), but if your thread is currently buried, it'll be tricky to get passer-bys in.
Yup. I have tons of updates and pics in my thread and get pretty minimal traction as well. A couple times a particular topic has taken off for a day or so, but you can just go through my posts and see how many updates there usually are without any other member input.
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post #30 of 82 Old 12-16-2017, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhizzlebop View Post
An update:
I've been slowly working on the build over the months but with a 2 year old, and our second son born in August its been slow slow progress.
Looking good, Rhizzlebop. Keep it up Even slow progress is still something. I have tried to constantly make some progress every week, even though it might just be an hour here or there sometimes. Similar to you and @ElementML I also have a two-year old and a another one just two weeks old so time is limited.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhizzlebop View Post
I also found this guys soffit which is AWESOME. Its part of the design detail, not just a soffit.

I totally agree, very cool soffit design! You shouldn’t happen to have a link to which build thread you’ve taken the picture from?

Speaking of which, the threads I’ve enjoyed reading the most are the ones with lots of pictures. Maybe you could snap some more pics and make smaller, but more frequent updates, in order to get more traction. Just a suggestion

Make sure to keep updating us on your progress. Looking forward to seeing what you’ll end up with!

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