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post #61 of 352 Old 06-07-2018, 11:34 AM
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Lately it feels like my life has been all about building these speaker columns! I'm building #6 , the left surround for the second row, which I saved for last since it's on an outside corner by the entry door. It will be one of the first things people see when entering the room, so I wanted to practice on all the others first....




Here the speaker box and verticals are all glued and nailed, speaker components are in and tested, and I'm about to add the faceplate at the top of the column.




The top/bottom faceplates are on now, so all that's left is to add wall-mounting brackets, and add a strip of 1/2 MDF to the backside that will form the outside corner. That strip will get a 3/8 roundover, same radius as on the double roundovers on front of the columns. (I'll get pics when I build it so that all might make sense...)

Separately I've been researching replacement AVRs. Not quite ready to purchase anything (as I'd really like to get the room built and operational instead of adding further gear changes to my list of things to do) - but the Elite SC-LX901 has my attention. Knowing that I will very likely make this change, it means I will not be putting any time into building my Demopad instance for now. It doesn't make sense to build things out using the Pioneer control protocol only to have to change to the Onkyo protocol when I change receivers.

Fortunately I have an IR target/emitter setup from the old theater, and an old Harmony I could leverage for some basic automation in the meantime.

I should get column #6 done this weekend, and possibly get the nail divots filled/sanded on the others so they're all ready for primer and paint.
Making progress. Taking notes from you. I just took apart me of my center channels to start planning my columns. I need to figure out internal air space for enclosure. Hope to pick up oak plywood tonight to start my soffit bottoms.
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post #62 of 352 Old 06-14-2018, 01:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Making progress. Taking notes from you. I just took apart me of my center channels to start planning my columns. I need to figure out internal air space for enclosure. Hope to pick up oak plywood tonight to start my soffit bottoms.
Your soffit progress looks great so far! The stained oak accents will be a cut above the paint grade work I am doing on my columns, soffit, etc.

I did a small bit of work on #6 over my lunch break today (some people go to the gym, apparently I go to the garage and sweat it out!). Cut and installed the wall-mounting brackets, and cut/routed a strip of 1/2 MDF to make the outside corner. That strip needs to be trimmed to length and glued/nailed - I was test fitting it here:







Also I picked up a couple of Micca M-8C for use as Atmos top-middle speakers (among other things, during the ebay 20% off last week). Top-middle is the only location I can fit an overhead pair within Atmos spec, so that's what I'll go with. (More accurately, I do not have a suitable top-rear or rear-high location, so that rules out using 4 overheads.) I tested both Miccas before boxing them back up - tweeter is a bit brighter than the RS-3 but they should integrate fine with EQ. I'll spray the bezels and grilles black at some point in the near future.



On the living room front - seems the wife and daughter really like having actual speakers available. The other night they were watching Dr. Strange at pretty high volume, and I feared for my RS-5s a bit with all the LFE going through them. So I decided it would be best to install a sub and high-pass the RS-5s. I reconnected the plate amp in my old BU-120 and snuck it down there while they were away - it's under an end table between the sofas, so nearfield to the seating and pretty effective. Wife hasn't said anything yet...


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post #63 of 352 Old 06-14-2018, 08:05 PM
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Breaking out the BU 120.

Did you thing about picking up so infinity or jbl ceiling speakers for Atmos? They have been pretty cheap lately and the tweeters match the RS2’s.
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post #64 of 352 Old 06-14-2018, 08:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Breaking out the BU 120.

Did you thing about picking up so infinity or jbl ceiling speakers for Atmos? They have been pretty cheap lately and the tweeters match the RS2’s.
I'm surprised the plate amp on my BU-120 still works. I had to replace the power supply filtering caps on it years ago (had the machine gun problem due to the caps leaking out), but maybe a year or two later I started including Crown pro amps in my setup, and bypassed the plate amp. It's been unplugged for a while.

I didn't look at a whole lot of ceiling speaker alternatives. The Infinity 6.5" was in my price range, but my preference was for something with an 8" driver to possibly keep up with the low end frequency response of the RS-2 and RS-3 (which as you know is surprisingly good for a 6.5" bookshelf). The Miccas seemed like a good value having researched them on AVS. The tweeter voice matching shouldn't be too much for MCACC to handle, especially for an effects channel. Easier to knock the tweeter down in EQ than to try and boost something that isn't there...

My current AVR (VSX-49TX) is non-Atmos anyway, so the ceiling speakers are just future consideration. (Actually the 49TX doesn't even have HDMI or decode HD streams - I use its 7.1ch analog in and the 7.1ch analog out on the Oppo 103D, and the Oppo has two HDMI ins so I can run other sources through its DAC and HDMI out)..

I have my eye on the SC-LX901 - just trying to talk myself out of making that purchase too soon when I have so much work left on the room and other room expenses coming up (screen, fabric, carpet).

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post #65 of 352 Old 06-14-2018, 09:04 PM - Thread Starter
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I continued on column #6 after work. Here the 1/2 MDF strip for the outside corner was glued and brad nailed, then the seam and nail holes filled and sanded:



A better look at the whole thing so you can see how the addition of that strip forms an outside corner on the back of the column:




In its place in the room, not yet shimmed and bolted to the wall. The whole idea behind cheating this column over 4" from the existing wall was to get a better position for the speaker relative to the 2nd row. I could have put this speaker in the entry nook but really didn't want to.



Left side under the can lights:





And a quickie cell phone panorama showing all 6 columns:


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post #66 of 352 Old 06-15-2018, 05:07 AM
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Now I see what you were doing on that column, could not figure out why you were finishing the back, lol. That pano shot looks great, the room is really coming together.

I too had the machine gun sounds on both my bu120’s. I ended up getting 2 plate amps from PE and using them as nearfield too. These are the infinities I was referring too. https://www.jbl.com/loudspeakers/JBL...eakers#start=1
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post #67 of 352 Old 06-15-2018, 08:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Now I see what you were doing on that column, could not figure out why you were finishing the back, lol. That pano shot looks great, the room is really coming together.

I too had the machine gun sounds on both my bu120’s. I ended up getting 2 plate amps from PE and using them as nearfield too. These are the infinities I was referring too. https://www.jbl.com/loudspeakers/JBL...eakers#start=1
Ah, I didn't see those JBLs previously but $120/ea is a bit more than I had in mind. I might feel differently if it were a music application or a primary channel, but for overhead effects it is a pretty big jump - $240 vs $70 for the pair of M-8Cs.

If the BU-120 dies again I will definitely replace its amp with a Dayton/PE to squash the problem. My replacement capacitors looked good when I had it apart, though. Surprising how well it works nearfield.

I'm so glad to have the columns substantially done and checked off my project plan. Next up - dealer's choice! Build the in-wall RS-3 LCR, or take a break from speaker building and start on the crown molding - which will be a 3 layer affair inspired by Bacon Race. I'm leaning toward crown molding next.



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post #68 of 352 Old 06-23-2018, 09:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Just to mess up the momentum I had upon finishing the columns, I had to fly out for work early Sunday through Thursday. I took yesterday off to make this a 3-day weekend, and in the late afternoon, I started up Ye Olde Crown Molding Factory and put in a few hours.

First step was to rip several 12-1/4" widths of 1/2 MDF. The initial rips were done with the Kreg rip-cut jig since it's a lot easier than feeding a full 4x8 sheet through the tablesaw. (file photo from our pals at kregtool.com forward slash my shop isn't this clean and long sleeves would kill me in this heat)




With all of those rips done, I routed a 3/8" roundover on one edge of each piece.




Then ran each piece through the tablesaw to trim off a 2" width with the rounded edge. The 2" strip will be the top step of the crown, and the approx 10-1/8" remainder will make the middle 4" and bottom 6" steps.



I routed another roundover onto one edge of the 10-1/8" pieces and that's where I left it for the night (wife home from work to go out for dinner). These pieces are ready to go through the tablesaw again with the fence at 4" to produce the middle step of the crown.



Then one more roundover and a pass through the tablesaw with the fence set at 6" to clean up the width.

Here is a preview of the crown profile (just arranged some 2" strips) -







Once the 3 steps of the crown are assembled I will route a 45 onto the top-rear edge. That is where the aluminum channel & diffuser for LED strips will be mounted, aiming the LEDs toward the soffit.

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post #69 of 352 Old 06-23-2018, 10:11 PM - Thread Starter
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I finished the router and tablesaw work for the crown, then took a second to think about assembly and threw this quick jig together It's just some stop blocks clamped down in a straight line to act as a fence to push the parts against. Smarter, not harder!




The stop blocks made lining everything up quick, easy, and repeatable. Here's a dry fit.




And the glue-up. With the bottom 6" piece in position, I applied glue where the middle 4" piece would cover.



Placed the 4" piece and rubbed it left/right to spread the glue. Then added glue where the top 2" piece would cover -


With the parts aligned at the ends and pushed up against the stop blocks, I shot 1-1/4 brad nails through all 3 layers. Center first, then the ends, then a few more in between.

Here's the finished product (bowing since it's only supported in the middle in this pic - even 3 layers of 1/2 MDF has some flex to it).



I stacked them out of the way on a workbench, clamped the ends, and laid some weight on the middle section so that they all dry flat and evenly.





I still need to route the 45 deg chamfer on the top-rear edge, and they'll be ready to start trimming to length and installing.

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post #70 of 352 Old 06-24-2018, 05:46 PM - Thread Starter
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More routing - this time on the router table which is a bit old/sloppy, but good enough for adding a 45 deg chamfer to the top-rear edge of the crown for mounting LED strips.

(I initially tried to do my column roundovers on the router table, and found that the depth adjustment drifts a bit when it warms up - so, not good when trying to rely on depth and fence to make a double roundover. The handheld router with fence attachment was very precise though - and I wanted to leave it setup for roundovers just in case I need it again.)





After getting it dialed in with test pieces, I ran all of the crown through, and here's how it'll end up. The mounting clips for the aluminum channel will be screwed to this chamfered edge.




Having the channel should make it a bit easier to install the LED strips, and possibly make it easier to take down and service if a section burns out or whatever. Plus there is a white plastic diffuser cap that should help the visual effect.

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post #71 of 352 Old 06-24-2018, 06:55 PM
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Holy MDF dust. That’s a lot of work doing those moulding. Look great so far as usual.
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post #72 of 352 Old 06-25-2018, 12:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Holy MDF dust. That’s a lot of work doing those moulding. Look great so far as usual.
Thanks!


Yes, lots and lots of dust. I don't have dust collection for any of my routers or the tablesaw. Half-filled a 30gal trashcan with all the dust I swept up yesterday... and it's not like I did a fantastic job getting it all.



Fortunately, my miter saw can accept a shop vac - need to test its effectiveness. If it collects well enough, I could bring the miter saw into the room for cutting the crown, to save the back-and-forth.

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post #73 of 352 Old 06-25-2018, 12:12 PM
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I have used my miter with my shop vac. They make special bags for drywall dust that help a lot. I just don’t know about the mdf dust, I would still cut outside. I set up a tent in my driveway and cut out there just to keep the dust out of the garage.
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Looking great! Lots of hard work it seems, but it will surely pay off.

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post #75 of 352 Old 06-25-2018, 01:09 PM - Thread Starter
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I have used my miter with my shop vac. They make special bags for drywall dust that help a lot. I just don’t know about the mdf dust, I would still cut outside. I set up a tent in my driveway and cut out there just to keep the dust out of the garage.

Yeah, my poor toy cars are covered in MDF junk right now. I gave them a courtesy swipe with the air nozzle, but it's on there pretty thick, especially the blue car.


The more I think about it, the more it sounds like a complete pain to setup a space large enough to work with 8ft pieces of crown in the room. So I'll probably cut it in the garage and deal with the back-and-forth.

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post #76 of 352 Old 06-25-2018, 01:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Looking great! Lots of hard work it seems, but it will surely pay off.
Thank you. Yes, it's been a lot of work, and especially a lot of sweat in this Texas summer heat. Still, I'm crazy enough to go out there for several hours at a time and push through...

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post #77 of 352 Old 07-04-2018, 11:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Minor update - the soffit is finally ready to receive the crown molding I made in my last update.

The bottom 6" of the soffit vertical face is going to be crown attached flush with the bottom of the 3/4" MDF tray lip. The remaining vertical behind and above the crown will be fabric frames - open to allow bass to pass through to the pink fluffy that the soffit will be stuffed with.

A while ago I realized I'd have to do something to keep the fiberglass in the soffit from escaping through the gap below the frames / behind the crown and becoming airborne. I'd have to address that before installing the crown.

So here's some fabric (dust cloth for the bottom of a couch, actually - quite inexpensive and breathable) cut to width and about to get stapled in.



I then cut some blocking which will support the fabric frames that will be added later. These are 5.25" tall so they'll line up with the top edge of the 6" crown when it's installed.








I then setup the miter saw for 45° bevel and cut the first couple pieces of crown to length. That's where I stopped for the night and will pick up this weekend. Here's a preview (all my corners are inside corners so hopefully they'll turn out this well installed) -




I need to figure out exactly how I want to attach this to the front face of the tray. Most likely I'll add some blocking on the back of the crown to index it on the tray lip - then glue and shoot brads from below through the tray lip into the blocking.

If possible I'd like to glue and brad the mitered corners together too. We shall see - may or may not be possible to maneuver the brad gun into the corners.

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post #78 of 352 Old 07-05-2018, 05:40 AM
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Minor update - the soffit is finally ready to receive the crown molding I made in my last update.

The bottom 6" of the soffit vertical face is going to be crown attached flush with the bottom of the 3/4" MDF tray lip. The remaining vertical behind and above the crown will be fabric frames - open to allow bass to pass through to the pink fluffy that the soffit will be stuffed with.

A while ago I realized I'd have to do something to keep the fiberglass in the soffit from escaping through the gap below the frames / behind the crown and becoming airborne. I'd have to address that before installing the crown.

So here's some fabric (dust cloth for the bottom of a couch, actually - quite inexpensive and breathable) cut to width and about to get stapled in.



I then cut some blocking which will support the fabric frames that will be added later. These are 5.25" tall so they'll line up with the top edge of the 6" crown when it's installed.








I then setup the miter saw for 45° bevel and cut the first couple pieces of crown to length. That's where I stopped for the night and will pick up this weekend. Here's a preview (all my corners are inside corners so hopefully they'll turn out this well installed) -




I need to figure out exactly how I want to attach this to the front face of the tray. Most likely I'll add some blocking on the back of the crown to index it on the tray lip - then glue and shoot brads from below through the tray lip into the blocking.

If possible I'd like to glue and brad the mitered corners together too. We shall see - may or may not be possible to maneuver the brad gun into the corners.
The moulding is going to look great. Why did you not do a full top to bottom fabric frame on the soffit instead of the furniture fabric to contain the fiberglass? I’m doing fabric frames for the soffit face to and stuff voids with pink fluffy. Might as well use the space for traps.
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post #79 of 352 Old 07-05-2018, 09:37 AM - Thread Starter
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The moulding is going to look great. Why did you not do a full top to bottom fabric frame on the soffit instead of the furniture fabric to contain the fiberglass? I’m doing fabric frames for the soffit face to and stuff voids with pink fluffy. Might as well use the space for traps.
I want the fabric frames to be removable in order to access cabling runs etc. in the soffits. With this tall crown moulding that is vertically constructed (not a 45 or 38 degree angle like store-bought crown) there would not be enough room to insert a full-height panel.

Here is a quickie mspaint cutaway that is totally not to scale.

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post #80 of 352 Old 07-05-2018, 10:58 AM
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I want the fabric frames to be removable in order to access cabling runs etc. in the soffits. With this tall crown moulding that is vertically constructed (not a 45 or 38 degree angle like store-bought crown) there would not be enough room to insert a full-height panel.

Here is a quickie mspaint cutaway that is totally not to scale.

I see now. Mine will be removable too but I’m not as tall. Will slide in bottom and friction fit with ceiling.
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I see now. Mine will be removable too but I’m not as tall. Will slide in bottom and friction fit with ceiling.
With a shorter crown or angled crown, it would have been possible to do full height panels. I originally intended full height until I thought about the geometry and realized the problem.

The panels will still friction fit against the blocking, and I'll likely use some velcro for added retention. (Planning on friction fit with velcro for my wall frames as well when that time comes.)

For now I'm concentrating on getting the ceiling/tray/crown ready for paint. If I can get that painted, and install the two ceiling speakers, I could order carpet and screen.

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post #82 of 352 Old 07-08-2018, 08:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Got a little less than half of the crown installed in the theater yesterday. Part of it was figuring out how I wanted to attach it - got that worked out and the rest should go together reasonably quickly.


Did a dry fit of the piece along the back wall first -





Here's the attachment method I came up with - added blocking on the back of the crown, offset from the bottom edge of the crown by 3/4" to index on the top edge of the tray during installation. During installation I applied glue to the bottom of the blocking then placed the moulding and shot brads up through the tray into the blocking. And a brad across each mitered corner as I go, to further stabilize and allow any imperfections to be filled without cracking down the road.

Added the mounting channel for the RGB LED strip before install.




And here's where I left off. Should get more in this afternoon. First pic is the back-left corner. The piece of moulding that will be attached to the attic access door will mate up to the compound cut (45 bevel 45 miter) at the front of this short piece. The bevel angle should help guide the two pieces to a tight closure, and the miter angle will allow the door to swing down and away.






And here's the big picture. More to come -



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post #83 of 352 Old 07-09-2018, 03:01 AM
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A lot of detailed work. Looking good.
Subscribed to see how it all turns out.
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post #84 of 352 Old 07-09-2018, 05:39 AM
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That’s looking really good, nice choice.

A side question. With you soffit can lights, did you center them from wall to edge? I’m getting close to doing mine and my mind is telling me centered but maybe closer to wall for wall wash light. The lights I got have an adjustable gimbal too.
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A lot of detailed work. Looking good.
Subscribed to see how it all turns out.
Thank you! It's really satisfying at this stage to see the room taking shape.

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That’s looking really good, nice choice.

A side question. With you soffit can lights, did you center them from wall to edge? I’m getting close to doing mine and my mind is telling me centered but maybe closer to wall for wall wash light. The lights I got have an adjustable gimbal too.
Thanks, really glad I saw the Bacon Race build (brought to you by @BIGmouthinDC ) which gave me the idea for the 3 step crown.


Depth-wise, the cans are centered between where the fabric wall frame will go, and the edge of the tray. So centered on the portion of the tray that will be visible in the end.


Width-wise, the side wall cans are centered between row1 and row2 columns. The rear corner cans are centered between row2 column edge and the back wall (future fabric frame location). And the screen wash cans are set at 1/6, 1/2, and 5/6 of screen width, idea being each would light 1/3 of the screen.


My side/rear cans are fixed-lens and the screen wash cans are gimbal. In your case with gimbal for all I think it would be really hard to mess it up. I like the appearance of having them centered in the available space, but have seen them offset in other builds and it looks great too as long as it's uniform.



If you offset them closer to the wall I think it would create more of a hot spot of higher intensity near the can, where a centered or offset-far location would soften and spread the wall wash effect. I temporarily powered a can with a cord and zwave dimmer so that I could move it around and see what I liked...With my specific cans I did not notice much of a difference, so I went centered.




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MOAR crown moulding!

I've worked my way around to the left front corner of the room - so I have 3 pieces left to go. One fixed piece at the LF corner, and two that will attach to and swing open with the attic access doors. These will probably have to wait till the weekend when I can take over the wife's garage spot again.



In case it helps someone, here's how I'm quickly attaching the blocking to the back of the crown during prep - edge jig made out of some straight MDF scraps.



With the jig held tightly to the bottom-rear of the crown, I use the other hand to shoot the block with the brad gun (obviously with all precautions not to shoot oneself with said nail gun). Helps that the gun has a grippy rubber tip, useful for pressing the block against the jig before pulling the trigger.



Here's the big picture as it sits now -





Finally, some cell phone pano shots to make it look bigger than it really is - from front wall:



And from the back wall.



Thanks to some input from @bluer101 over on his build thread, looks like I might be building my own screen frame and giving a matte white over matte black spandex screen a try. Even if I end up not liking the spandex, it wouldn't be much of a leap to order DIY Seymour UF material and replace it. This cuts about $1000 out of the room budget meaning I just might be able to swing that SC-LX901 sooner. But I'm still resisting the urge to buy that.

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post #87 of 352 Old 07-11-2018, 05:25 AM
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Thank you! It's really satisfying at this stage to see the room taking shape.

Thanks, really glad I saw the Bacon Race build (brought to you by @BIGmouthinDC ) which gave me the idea for the 3 step crown.


Depth-wise, the cans are centered between where the fabric wall frame will go, and the edge of the tray. So centered on the portion of the tray that will be visible in the end.


Width-wise, the side wall cans are centered between row1 and row2 columns. The rear corner cans are centered between row2 column edge and the back wall (future fabric frame location). And the screen wash cans are set at 1/6, 1/2, and 5/6 of screen width, idea being each would light 1/3 of the screen.


My side/rear cans are fixed-lens and the screen wash cans are gimbal. In your case with gimbal for all I think it would be really hard to mess it up. I like the appearance of having them centered in the available space, but have seen them offset in other builds and it looks great too as long as it's uniform.



If you offset them closer to the wall I think it would create more of a hot spot of higher intensity near the can, where a centered or offset-far location would soften and spread the wall wash effect. I temporarily powered a can with a cord and zwave dimmer so that I could move it around and see what I liked...With my specific cans I did not notice much of a difference, so I went centered.




Thank you, that’s what I was thinking about the lights but no one really talks about measurements. I’m I have the 1” of fabric frames so I will center after that. Mine will be also centered between columns so that’s easy. Hope to mount columns this weekend and get lighting in so I can stop using my work light.


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MOAR crown moulding!

I've worked my way around to the left front corner of the room - so I have 3 pieces left to go. One fixed piece at the LF corner, and two that will attach to and swing open with the attic access doors. These will probably have to wait till the weekend when I can take over the wife's garage spot again.



In case it helps someone, here's how I'm quickly attaching the blocking to the back of the crown during prep - edge jig made out of some straight MDF scraps.



With the jig held tightly to the bottom-rear of the crown, I use the other hand to shoot the block with the brad gun (obviously with all precautions not to shoot oneself with said nail gun). Helps that the gun has a grippy rubber tip, useful for pressing the block against the jig before pulling the trigger.



Here's the big picture as it sits now -





Finally, some cell phone pano shots to make it look bigger than it really is - from front wall:



And from the back wall.



Thanks to some input from @bluer101 over on his build thread, looks like I might be building my own screen frame and giving a matte white over matte black spandex screen a try. Even if I end up not liking the spandex, it wouldn't be much of a leap to order DIY Seymour UF material and replace it. This cuts about $1000 out of the room budget meaning I just might be able to swing that SC-LX901 sooner. But I'm still resisting the urge to buy that.
The crown is turning out great. It’s really hard to tell with a piece held up until it starts to all come together. It funny how our rooms look really big with those pano shots, lol.

Are you keeping the ceiling fan? I removed mine but have always had a fan in every room of the house. If I don’t do a star ceiling I might have to add one back, glad I have attic above.
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Thank you, that’s what I was thinking about the lights but no one really talks about measurements. I’m I have the 1” of fabric frames so I will center after that. Mine will be also centered between columns so that’s easy. Hope to mount columns this weekend and get lighting in so I can stop using my work light.
I am hanging onto my work light (the ceiling fan) for as long as I can. The can lights on 100% are plenty bright, but by design they do not disperse light evenly through the room, so I like to have the cans and the overhead (fan) light for doing any kind of detailed work in the room. It's almost enough to make me consider a fan with a low-profile light kit just to have an overhead light available for work/maintenance/whatever.


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The crown is turning out great. It’s really hard to tell with a piece held up until it starts to all come together. It funny how our rooms look really big with those pano shots, lol.

Are you keeping the ceiling fan? I removed mine but have always had a fan in every room of the house. If I don’t do a star ceiling I might have to add one back, glad I have attic above.
Thanks! It's almost like adding the crown makes that big ol' soffit look proportioned...

I am keeping a ceiling fan, but not that brass one (it will get broken down and stored as we have the same model in other rooms). Going with a $50 basic black 52" harbor breeze (lowes) when the time comes...



Also have a GE zwave fan controller already in place and tied into my Vera system. So I should be able to control the fan from the demopad room-control tablet when the time comes.

Having a fan in the theater room might not be popular here, but having the air movement is popular with my people so it stays.

James

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post #89 of 352 Old 07-11-2018, 05:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Slight change - I found a deal on a matte black Minka Aire Concept II 44". Will be a much nicer unit than the $50 harbor breeze special, and moves nearly the same CFM per energy star ratings.

I think the 44" size should work better than 52" anyway since I've shrouded the fan by building the tray ceiling around it. (The current brass fan is a 52 for size reference.)

Plus it has a low-profile light kit included should I choose to keep a center "work" light for my 100% scene, and a blank metal insert (same shape as the light kit glass) if I decide not to use the light.




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post #90 of 352 Old 07-11-2018, 06:17 PM
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Slight change - I found a deal on a matte black Minka Aire Concept II 44". Will be a much nicer unit than the $50 harbor breeze special, and moves nearly the same CFM per energy star ratings.

I think the 44" size should work better than 52" anyway since I've shrouded the fan by building the tray ceiling around it. (The current brass fan is a 52 for size reference.)

Plus it has a low-profile light kit included should I choose to keep a center "work" light for my 100% scene, and a blank metal insert (same shape as the light kit glass) if I decide not to use the light.



That’s a nice fan. Can it be low profile mounted of that’s it in the picture.
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