McTheatre II build thread - Page 8 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #211 of 379 Old 02-15-2019, 02:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markswift2003 View Post
I don't suppose you'd mind sharing your Sketchup model would you? Just curious - my room is roughly the same size as yours and it'd be nice to see how you're doing the riser and seating?


If you remember, we talked about screen sizes earlier in the thread.


The issue I have with scope screens is that 1.85 movies (and there seem to be more and more these days) become so tiny in the middle of a scope screen whereas for a given width, a 1.78 screen allows for the same size scope image but then a much taller 1.85 image at the same width.


Problem is of course masking - scope images look terrible (to my eye) on a 1.78 screen - my screen has motorised masking which is awesome, but I've seen a lot of Mcgyver masking systems on AVS, some motorised, some manual and some Velcro on velvet panels, so it may be worth looking at that as an option if you're going for a taller screen?


By the way - the image you posted didn't show...
I have several iterations of the Sketchup project - happy to share when I'm back at at the home computer where they're stored. It's not modeled down to the 2x4 or anything, just the finished interior surfaces are modeled. Intended purpose was to design the proportions of the room for visualization / proof of concept. I sketch most simple things by hand; this design was a bit to complex for that process. (Can't say I didn't try, though - there are some early manual sketches...)

I fixed the picture in the post above (thanks Google Photos...) - pretty much the same thought you expressed regarding the small 1.78 and 1.85 images centered on a scope screen. (I attached the image here just in case it's still messed up.)

I am biased toward scope (have never had a scope screen before, and would enjoy those movies being as large as possible and perfectly framed) but I think a best of both worlds approach in this room could be a 2.0 screen, if the sigh lines to the bottom edge of the screen would allow for it.

My last room had a large 1.78 screen; great for casual TV but lackluster for scope movies - not the direction I want to go this time around.

Masking might be a future improvement. I know I wouldn't have any interest in manual masking... so it'd be automated and complex if I go down that road.
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post #212 of 379 Old 02-15-2019, 03:05 PM
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...

Masking might be a future improvement. I know I wouldn't have any interest in manual masking... so it'd be automated and complex if I go down that road.

Apologies for even mentioning manual masking


I love your ethos.
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post #213 of 379 Old 02-15-2019, 03:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TMcG View Post
I'll call this post "the hazard of only reviewing current subscriptions and not going through the Dedicated Theater Design & Construction forum looking for new and interesting builds".

I'm glad you made a post this morning as I just so-happened to see it at the top of the thread list. Great job on your theater so far! I especially like your engineered solution for the attic steps while maintaining room aesthetics (bonus point for the recessed light as part of the assembly!!!!) and the dual subs mounted in the attic coming through a baffle in the ceiling. Excellent!

I'm officially subscribed and look forward to seeing the finish work come together.

PS - You should add a link to your build thread in your signature!!!
Ah, pleased to have one of the foremost AVS-OCD authorities here on my thread! Thanks for the compliments and I'll try to keep the momentum rolling. I fear my cable management will disappoint you eventually (I do not own a single pair of cable pants), but try not to let that run you off...

And yes, I'm also guilty of looking at only subscribed threads and ones I've replied in. Sadly (but happily!) a few builds I've been following are nearing completion - I'm gonna have to find some new ones to keep tabs on.
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post #214 of 379 Old 02-17-2019, 09:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Didn't have much time this weekend - only a couple hours today. I did all of the touch-ups on the ceiling and tray, then barely had enough time to put a first coat on one of the columns before my hockey game. Hopefully I'll get into the room after work this week to get the columns knocked out.



This evening, took a little time to remove masking from the HVAC return and can lights. It's the little things...



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post #215 of 379 Old 02-17-2019, 10:30 PM
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@James92TSi What are you using as the "rings" to route your wiring in the soffit?
Do you plan on having a way to access the wiring in the soffit once completed?


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post #216 of 379 Old 02-19-2019, 12:16 AM - Thread Starter
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@James92TSi What are you using as the "rings" to route your wiring in the soffit?
Do you plan on having a way to access the wiring in the soffit once completed?


Thanks,
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@CFC they are called cabling distribution rings or D rings - commonly used with wall-mounted telephone and data equipment for routing cables between devices. My low voltage cabling goes through the D rings, to keep it separated from high voltage cables along the bottom of the tray.

I got a box of 25 D-rings inexpensively on eBay. Here is a link to the mfg spec for the exact ones I used. They come in numerous sizes. http://www.macleanseniorindustries.c...ductid=SI-4753

I'll be building fabric frames to fill the open vertical face of the soffit, and those frames will be removable for future cabling access. Hope that helps!
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post #217 of 379 Old 02-19-2019, 11:54 AM
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Just caught myself up with your project. Excellent work my man. Keep it up. Enjoying the posts.


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post #218 of 379 Old 02-19-2019, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James92TSi View Post
@CFC they are called cabling distribution rings or D rings - commonly used with wall-mounted telephone and data equipment for routing cables between devices. My low voltage cabling goes through the D rings, to keep it separated from high voltage cables along the bottom of the tray.

I got a box of 25 D-rings inexpensively on eBay. Here is a link to the mfg spec for the exact ones I used. They come in numerous sizes. http://www.macleanseniorindustries.c...ductid=SI-4753

I'll be building fabric frames to fill the open vertical face of the soffit, and those frames will be removable for future cabling access. Hope that helps!
Thanks!
I'm in the VERY early stages of planning out a soffit, mainly to hide wiring.
I'll be interested in seeing how you plan on attaching the fabric frames. I was thinking of a hinged face for mine.
Are you using fabric so that the soffit can also act as a bass trap?

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post #219 of 379 Old 02-19-2019, 03:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Just caught myself up with your project. Excellent work my man. Keep it up. Enjoying the posts.
Thanks! I've enjoyed keeping up with yours as well. Fabric wall-frame mania will be upon me too before I know it...

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post #220 of 379 Old 02-19-2019, 03:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks!
I'm in the VERY early stages of planning out a soffit, mainly to hide wiring.
I'll be interested in seeing how you plan on attaching the fabric frames. I was thinking of a hinged face for mine.
Are you using fabric so that the soffit can also act as a bass trap?

CFC
Yes, the soffit verticals will be covered with Castielle Suede in charcoal - https://www.acoustimac.com/acoustic-...ic-by-the-yard - chosen to be dark enough to absorb some ambient light, but still give the RGB LED strips something to light up. With the soffits stuffed with pink fiberglass there should be some bass trapping function - which I'll take since I can't afford floor space for typical corner traps.

Walls will be DMD burgundy for the back 2/3 of the room, and speaker column grilles will be DMD black - https://www.acoustimac.com/dmd-acoustic-fabric

Front 1/3 of the room (forward of the first row columns) will be Royalty 3 black velvet from Joann's - https://www.joann.com/royalty-3-velvet/7347537.html

All of that fabric is on-hand and ready to go, since Acoustimac had a holiday sale and Joann's sent me a 50% coupon last week.

All around the room, including the soffit, the frames will be built to tight enough tolerances to friction fit (1/8" allowance for the fabric to wrap around), plus velcro for some added retention.

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post #221 of 379 Old 02-19-2019, 04:13 PM
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Yes, the soffit verticals will be covered with Castielle Suede in charcoal - https://www.acoustimac.com/acoustic-...ic-by-the-yard - chosen to be dark enough to absorb some ambient light, but still give the RGB LED strips something to light up. With the soffits stuffed with pink fiberglass there should be some bass trapping function - which I'll take since I can't afford floor space for typical corner traps.

Walls will be DMD burgundy for the back 2/3 of the room, and speaker column grilles will be DMD black - https://www.acoustimac.com/dmd-acoustic-fabric

Front 1/3 of the room (forward of the first row columns) will be Royalty 3 black velvet from Joann's - https://www.joann.com/royalty-3-velvet/7347537.html

All of that fabric is on-hand and ready to go, since Acoustimac had a holiday sale and Joann's sent me a 50% coupon last week.

All around the room, including the soffit, the frames will be built to tight enough tolerances to friction fit (1/8" allowance for the fabric to wrap around), plus velcro for some added retention.
Sounds like a plan. You are getting close to starting your frames. Just to let you know, mine on the walls and soffit are all friction fit with no issues of falling or moving. No Velcro needed either.
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post #222 of 379 Old 02-23-2019, 08:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Painted the columns earlier this afternoon. First coat -



All 6 drying with 2 coats. Also put a second coat on the small trap door and reinstalled it onto the tray.

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post #223 of 379 Old 02-24-2019, 06:33 PM - Thread Starter
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I found the missing screws for the HVAC supply grilles yesterday while sorting through random tools and junk in the room. Today I worked on other projects around the house, but took a little time to look at attaching one. The screws are self-tappers, so I tried just holding the grille in place and driving them, but it was pretty wonky considering the long bit needed to reach the hole locations at the ends of the slots..

Ended up measuring/marking/pre-drilling.the HVAC boot to accept the screws and that did the trick. Blacked-out ceiling is almost complete.

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post #224 of 379 Old 02-24-2019, 06:35 PM
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Those look clean. I might have to this for my grills as well. Gotta repaint


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post #225 of 379 Old 02-27-2019, 12:44 AM - Thread Starter
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A little progress this evening. I put all of the columns back in their homes, bolted them to the walls, and fed the speaker cables into them from the soffit.



Then reinstalled the speaker drivers into the columns, and powered the AV UPS on. Music while working is BACK!



I added the other HVAC supply grille - much easier the second time around, like everything. This is with all the lights in the room on 100%. Hard to photograph the blackness...



Big picture with the lights on 100%. Rubble everywhere, columns in their homes, and a rack with blinky lights. I need to do some cleaning and put some tools away...



While I was working on the columns, I had my 3D printer working on this. It's a mounting bracket for the Fibaro z-wave RGBW controller (for my LED strip lighting) which I found on thingiverse. I'll drill a couple holes and screw it to the wall along with the 24V power supply that I designed and printed brackets for a while back. They'll go inside one of the columns with a surface-mount receptacle to power it.



RGB strip lighting in the soffit is next on my list. The W channel will come later - that will be used for a warm white LED strip under the riser lip.


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post #226 of 379 Old 02-27-2019, 11:14 PM - Thread Starter
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I started on the LED strips tonight - or the groundwork for them at least. I couldn't recall the lengths of strips (or where I wrote it down), so I measured it real quick.

Top diagram is the length (mm) of each aluminum LED mounting channel on the crown.

Bottom diagram is where I worked out the LED strip lengths. I decided to pull parallel homeruns of RGB wire from the power supply to each corner of the room, to keep voltage drop to a minimum - and the circled numbers are length of LED strip (again in mm) that will be connected to the wire at each corner. My whole install is slightly less than 10m of 24V strip, 970mm to be exact - so 4 parallel homeruns is probably overkill regarding any voltage drop concerns. Overkill = just right on AVS...



The 24V power supply and the Fibaro RGB controller are mounted inside the SR2 column with their 3D printed brackets. I'll add some cable clamps to secure all that wire against the wall. It's running outside the column since the speaker enclosure goes all the way to the wall, preventing any wire from passing through. There is an access hole near the windowsill for the wires to pass into the column, and this will all be hidden later by fabric frames.



Another view. You can see the RGB wire hanging down from the crown - plenty of slack at each corner to make the connections. Speaking of connections, I plan to solder and heat-shrink RGB wire onto the LED strips, stick them into the channels, and make the field connections at the corners of the room with wirenuts so it's all serviceable.



Now I know what lengths of strip I'll need to cut and solder, so that's next.
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post #227 of 379 Old 03-02-2019, 10:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Today, the Acme™ LED Strip Factory churned out all of the strips in the lengths measured in my last update. RGB wire was soldered to each section (flux the pads, tin the pads, tin the wires, then a brief moment of heat is all it takes to stick 'em).



The pile of soldered and tested strips, waiting for heatshrink. (The quick-splice connectors in the background were extras from a friend, but I opted not to use them due to their reputation for loosening up and causing trouble later on.)



I added some 16-ga leads to the Fibaro controller then put it back in its bracket. Yellow +24V, black ground, and RGBW are the color grounds from the Fibaro.



After placing the strips around the right side of the room, I couldn't resist the urge to see them light up. (Plus I wanted to make sure they work... yeah... that's it.) So I connected the rest of the power supply and controller wiring, and here's a first look -



And a better view of the power supply & Fibaro controller wiring. I'll have to take this column down when it's time to add the outlet inside it - at that point I'll cut a notch in the back for those few wires that are temporarily crossing in front and clean this up the rest of the way.



A close-up of the back of the crown and LEDs, at the front of the room.



A section before I added the plastic diffuser to the channel.



Finished all the way around!



Still a mess.



A little attic door action...



Here's the sample of charcoal Castielle Suede taped up. Obviously not as bright as the original white ceiling behind it - but it should show the LED effect well while not being so reflective of stray light.



Next up will be either building and wrapping the vertical frames for the soffit, or in-wall LCR speaker build. I'm leaning toward the speakers.
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post #228 of 379 Old 03-03-2019, 10:06 PM
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A little attic door action...
Always love the McAttic Theater room photos.
Will love to see the LCR go up.

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post #229 of 379 Old 03-04-2019, 05:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Always love the McAttic Theater room photos.
Will love to see the LCR go up.

Aaron
Thanks! Last night I redesigned the left and right mains to give them 2" of toe rather than the 1" designed previously. The screen frame will be about 3" deep so I had a little more depth to play with than I knew about when I first designed them. The increased toe angle (~15 degrees) lines up better with the seating positions.


As for cutting them into the wall - I'll wait until the seats arrive, at which point I can test row depth and finalize whether the screen will be 2.35 or 2.0 aspect ratio, based on sight lines. Then the screen frame will be built and the LCR installed into the wall accordingly.
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post #230 of 379 Old 03-14-2019, 11:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Since last update, I've done a few minor things. Sadly my seats are still in shipping purgatory and I haven'r heard much lately... (believe my rep is out on spring break, so maybe we'll figure it out next week). It's getting close to a point where I'll need the seats on hand for progress to continue.

Bananas are soldered on the cables for LCR and Atmos pair. Other than pulling another cable or two for tactile transducers and maybe a nearfield 12, speaker cabling is done. I'll have a few more signal cables to pull to a wallplate at the front of the room, for ad-hoc connection of game system type things without going through the rack.



I pulled the rack out of the closet and swapped in the Unifi POE switch -



I finally cleaned up tools and debris - first time I'd bothered since the project started, and it was a bit out of hand. And this evening, I finished the designs for the in-wall LCR speaker boxes - had to redo them at the component level so that I can use these designs to make cut lists. Hopefully I'll get some progress on these this weekend.





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post #231 of 379 Old 03-16-2019, 12:11 PM - Thread Starter
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I heard from the seating rep yesterday afternoon - my seats are in Dallas now, and they're working out how best to get the last leg of their journey completed. Yay!

Now to get started on the LCR...

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post #232 of 379 Old 03-16-2019, 10:01 PM - Thread Starter
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After spending some more time in Sketchup to gather dimensions and build my list of LCR parts, I went outside and got busy. First order of business was to add the dust collection hood I'd bought for the tablesaw a while back. It's a "big gulp" hood with a 4" outlet, adapted to fit a 2.5" shop vac hose.



The saw used to make a huge mess on the floor below it, and that's not a problem anymore. If I can enclose the back some (a lot of guys use cardboard or sheet magnets) it should draw air around the blade and contain even more dust. (The small hose is from the router table wing.)



I don't think I ever mentioned the other end of my el-cheapo dust collection rig. I bought a chinese dust separator cyclone and installed it on a gamma bucket lid (screw off lid with gasket seal). That keeps dust from getting to the 2.5" shop vac behind it - all but the very finest dust stays in the cyclone, keeping the shop vac filter clean and free-flowing.



To conserve floor space, the shop vac is on a platform in the garage attic (on a RF remote relay to trigger it) and the cyclone bucket lives on some pegboard hooks.



With that out of the way - I got most of the parts cut for the in-wall LCR speakers. Tomorrow I'll cut the rest, route the speaker openings, and start assembly.



Excel tracking sheets for everything!



The new saw fence is so freaking nice to work with. I made several cuts on both sides of the blade today and everything came out bang-on the number. Very glad I spent the money and effort on the upgrade.
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1) your sketchup skills are great. Someday I need to spend time in that application and learn.

2) I love the el cheapo dust collector and the ingenuity you put into it. That big gulp is perfect for the bottom dust port on your table saw. I kinda wish mine had a bottom port; instead, it’s a side rear port.

3) I should be better than I am with using tools like excel to document and help with work. I dig the spread sheet.


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post #234 of 379 Old 03-17-2019, 07:21 PM - Thread Starter
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1) your sketchup skills are great. Someday I need to spend time in that application and learn.

2) I love the el cheapo dust collector and the ingenuity you put into it. That big gulp is perfect for the bottom dust port on your table saw. I kinda wish mine had a bottom port; instead, it’s a side rear port.

3) I should be better than I am with using tools like excel to document and help with work. I dig the spread sheet.


Aaron H.

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Thanks Aaron!

1) there are lots of Sketchup tutorials out there. I can't find the specific one I started with or I'd pass that along - it had me start by drawing a rectangle then used various tools to turn it into a basic house.

I learned sketchup just for this project. Back at the beginning of the thread (getting close to 2 years ago now) I was just learning the basics. I'm sure there's plenty more I don't know, but I can cruise around it pretty quickly now.

2) the big gulp and shop vac are way better than nothing. As a contractor saw it's an open frame, not really designed with collection in mind. Enclosing the back should help a ton. A cabinet saw like your Powermatic will always do a better job at handling dust. I did some routing today and with the shop vac hooked up at the router fence, no dust escaped.

3) I've made cut lists like that for as long as I can remember. It helps keep the pausing and thinking to a minimum while at the saw - just run all the cuts then start assembling. Excel is easier than writing it all down, which I used to do with manually sketched designs.

Update on the LCR:

Today I cut the rest of the parts out, routed the speaker cutouts in the baffles, dry fit the center channel box, assembled it, and added the components. Here it is with some Queen (Dragon Attack) flowing through it via the garage stereo.



Gotta go clean things up out there and get ready for a late hockey game. Assembly of the L and R boxes will have to wait until later this week.
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post #235 of 379 Old 03-19-2019, 05:35 PM - Thread Starter
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MOAR speaker building!

Since the left and right main boxes are a little out of the ordinary with the toe angles I designed in, I figured extra pics would be interesting. I worked through lunch to get done with work early today, then started assembling the left main. Here I've already glued and nailed the two leftmost pieces of the baffle together (just a 90 degree joint, nothing special). I've clamped on a couple scraps as stop blocks to assist with positioning the next piece.



The stop blocks line up the long edge for me, so I just have to line up the ends and shoot it with the brad nailer.



With the 3 baffle pieces assembled, I started on the sides. Here the left side piece is propping up that side of the baffle, and I'm working on attaching the right side. Again, stop blocks clamped to the workpiece to make alignment easier during glue-up. Just get it against the blocks, line up the ends, and shoot it.



Here I'm repeating the process for the right side panel. I took this pic from the side so you can see all the clamps being used. Two small blocks are clamped to the table, and the side panel is clamped to those blocks to hold it vertically. Two stop blocks are clamped to the side panel, to assist with lining up the long edge of the baffle. With glue spread on both pieces, I positioned it and shot it.



After that, I added the back panel. Here I'm tracing the shape of the box onto the top and bottom pieces so they can be cut with the jigsaw. (Not going for any fine woodworking awards here - these are going behind the screen after all )



Top and bottom pieces in place, and a wild tweeter cup appears.



I added the rest of the components and gave it a quick test.



With the left completed, I started on the right. Here's a dry fit of two baffle pieces, sides, and back. To set the angle of the two baffle parts, I clamped a bunch of blocks to the table.



Sadly with the angles involved, I couldn't think of any way to add mechanical fasteners to hold this while the glue sets. I thought of maybe splining the joint, but... it's just a speaker baffle, under no mechanical stress. So I spread on a ton of glue, set the pieces between the blocks, and added some weight to drive the two pieces together. This is drying, then I'll get started on the rest of this speaker.


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This is very interesting! It’s going to be a thing of beauty when this is done.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by James92TSi View Post
MOAR speaker building!

Sadly with the angles involved, I couldn't think of any way to add mechanical fasteners to hold this while the glue sets. I thought of maybe splining the joint, but... it's just a speaker baffle, under no mechanical stress. So I spread on a ton of glue, set the pieces between the blocks, and added some weight to drive the two pieces together. This is drying, then I'll get started on the rest of this speaker.




Brilliant!



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Very well thought-out! It may be uber-nerdy to some, but I really enjoy these detailed updates.

Questions....what is the planned physical separation between Left and Right speakers (in feet and inches)? Will the speakers be behind the screen? Is that Infinity speaker just a front baffle? What model number is it?
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@Oklahomie and @Tyborg - Thanks guys!
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post
Very well thought-out! It may be uber-nerdy to some, but I really enjoy these detailed updates.

Questions....what is the planned physical separation between Left and Right speakers (in feet and inches)? Will the speakers be behind the screen? Is that Infinity speaker just a front baffle? What model number is it?
@TMcG I will always take uber-nerdy as a compliment.

Should be 8' between left/right. They will be recessed into the wall behind the screen (spandex DIY). Here is an old mspaint of the wall stud locations and LCR, which shows why I offset the drivers to the right in each box. Studs are 16" OC.



The LCR are infinity RS-3, and column surrounds are RS-2; both originally bookshelf speakers. I built my own boxes, same internal volume as the originals, but much shallower depth to suit my room. I transplanted all of the infinity parts, down to the polyester in the boxes, over to my boxes. Here is what the RS-3s used to look like - 11" deep and rear-ported.



This is 90s era Infinity stuff, some of which I bought new at that time, and others I have acquired used/inexpensively over the years. Other than the nine in the theater, I have RS-5 towers in the living room with a CC-2 center and BU-120 powered sub - and on the shelf I have a lone RS-3 (spare parts for the theater LCR?) and four more RS-2s which might end up in my office or the MBR at some point.
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Last night, after dinner and a late conference call, I resumed working on the right main. Here's the baffle after the glue had a couple hours to set. I drilled the various holes and am about to add the port shim. (Don't know if I mentioned it, but the whole reason I shimmed the port forward 3/4" is to get the port entrance away from the back panel.)



Here I've already added one side piece and the tweeter cup, and am setting up to glue/nail the other side piece. (I forgot to add the tweeter cup at this stage of the left main assembly. It's easier to deal with before the box has a back panel.)



More glue, and the stop blocks again for positioning... same old, same old...



Both sides on, getting set to add the back panel.



Special shout out to the rockler silicone glue brush. What a stupid simple thing that I didn't know I needed until I had it. So much better than the old dollar paintbrush that I'd forget to rinse out. I don't have to clean this thing... the old glue just peels off next time you go to use it. What a time to be alive.



I had to use a little extra persuasion to get the ends to line up on this one. It was maybe 1/16" out. No problem!



With the baffle, sides, and back assembled - on to the top and bottom. Traced the edge and freehand cut with the jigsaw.






Completed box, ready to receive the rest of the speaker guts!



tada.wav



And the three of them hanging out in the room, waiting for activities. Another line crossed off the project plan. (I put the grilles on for driver protection while the speakers are sitting on the floor - not planning on using them once they're behind the screen.)

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