Door suggestions for dedicated theater room? - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 13 Old 08-23-2017, 02:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Door suggestions for dedicated theater room?

I can't believe a door is tripping us up - but such is the case. I've read enough to get me thoroughly confused and stressed out about our door selection. I know we want solid core and heavy, don't know if wood species matters. We asked our contractor about a solid core flush interior wood door - the contractor's "door guy" (who knows what the goal is) says there's no such thing as a solid core wood interior door and quoted a Flush Panel Thick Rift White Oak Veneer Architectural Grade Solid Core Single Door. The solid core in this case being a particle board. As a layperson "particle board" doesn't sound very "soundproof" to me. We've also been surprised at the cost of doors and would like to keep it under 2k if possible, but wondering if it is.

Does wood species matter? Where's a good place to look for doors? Any other door advice is greatly appreciated

Thanks!
Laura
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post #2 of 13 Old 08-23-2017, 03:36 PM
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Wood veneer solid core doors are what you want, 1 3/4 thick instead of 1 3/8. I usually get a flat flush birch veneer solid core door then paint it. The best way to describe it is a heavy office door from deluxe office space. If you are tying to match stained wood elsewhere you may need a different veneer. I'm not a fan of Oak

Once you have a door you need to think about air tight acoustical door seals around the perimeter with an automatic door bottom that lowers a rubber seal when the door is closed. They usually cost more than the door.

Solid core doors are usually filled with particle board or MDF and are actually better at containing sound than a solid plank of wood.

I get a prehung solid solid wood veneered door for under $200 delivered.

If you want even better sound control you can do better than a single 1 3/4 thick solid core door, but that is another topic.
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post #3 of 13 Old 08-23-2017, 03:51 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LMeyers View Post
I can't believe a door is tripping us up - but such is the case. I've read enough to get me thoroughly confused and stressed out about our door selection. I know we want solid core and heavy, don't know if wood species matters. We asked our contractor about a solid core flush interior wood door - the contractor's "door guy" (who knows what the goal is) says there's no such thing as a solid core wood interior door and quoted a Flush Panel Thick Rift White Oak Veneer Architectural Grade Solid Core Single Door. The solid core in this case being a particle board. As a layperson "particle board" doesn't sound very "soundproof" to me. We've also been surprised at the cost of doors and would like to keep it under 2k if possible, but wondering if it is.

Does wood species matter? Where's a good place to look for doors? Any other door advice is greatly appreciated

Thanks!
Laura
Solid core/masonite door. Special 42" door which was custom trimmed out.
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post #4 of 13 Old 08-24-2017, 08:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks, Jeff! I'm definitely planning on getting the automatic door bottom and acoustic seal. I've seen a few options. Is there one in particular you would recommend? I want to ask, more out of curiosity, what we could do that would improve sound control - at the same time I don't because our contractor is well underway.

LFE Junkie - love the custom trim on the door interior!
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post #5 of 13 Old 08-24-2017, 09:14 AM
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these are the ones I use, you have to call and order from them.
http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/...tom-jamb-stop/
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post #6 of 13 Old 08-25-2017, 05:32 AM
 
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Originally Posted by LMeyers View Post
Thanks, Jeff! I'm definitely planning on getting the automatic door bottom and acoustic seal. I've seen a few options. Is there one in particular you would recommend? I want to ask, more out of curiosity, what we could do that would improve sound control - at the same time I don't because our contractor is well underway.

LFE Junkie - love the custom trim on the door interior!
Thanks,

Just keep in mind if you seal the bottom of the door and your AC return is not in the theater room, the return will have a very hard time pulling the air out of that area and potentially damaging your unit. Just FYI
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post #7 of 13 Old 08-25-2017, 05:41 AM
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The chance of damaging the unit is low if there is a return elsewhere in the house. The chance of you being miserable due to the heat and stuffy air is 100% if there isn't a dedicated return for the theater space. This is a common builder error. Of course there are a lot of other details about building your theater we could discuss other than the doors.
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post #8 of 13 Old 08-25-2017, 10:42 AM
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I would just use a fire door, the cores are generally solid and dense.
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post #9 of 13 Old 08-25-2017, 07:07 PM
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I would just use a fire door, the cores are generally solid and dense.
This is what I did. It is fairly effective. Since it is a slab door (at least mine), you can also put additional layers or wood with GG sandwiched in it but you may have a harder time finding a door knob for that thickness. I bought an off the shelf Schlage black lever door knob and it barely had the length for the standard thickness of the fire door.

As mentioned previously a Quality automatic door bottom closer and quality frame seals are critical. I just installed mine three days ago. I bought an automatic bottom closer locally (not the one that Jeff/Big references) and it is crap. It didn't close / seal very well on the opposite side of the push rod / hinge side, The floor was slightly sloped or had a small hump. I took the automatic bottom closer apart and it was a single cheap leaf type spring. I had to put a traditional spring on the end of one side so there was enough pressure for it close on the handle side but this also means it drags a bit on the handle side when opening and closing the door. The gap under the door was maybe 3-4" wide and 1/8" high on that one side before my spring modification and I could hear my bluetooth speaker playing podcasts and make out the voices when I had the door closed with the gap (unmodified bottom door seal) under the door. Once I got the seal on the bottom working for the full 36" door width the sound from the speaker was reduced 2-3x easily and the voices sounded like murmurs. Similarly, adjacent to my HT is a mechanical room (furnace, hot water with powered blower) and it has a cheapo hollow core door but the wood door stops are fairly tight and there is only a 1/16-1/8" gap on the bottom because of the transition from concrete to a raised engineered wood floor. When the door is closed you can still hear a bit of the sounds from the mechanicals but if you pull the door knob, it reduces the sound significantly because of a very very small gap along one section of the door stop. I bought 3/8" thick 1/4" wide sponge weather sealing and put it around the door stop and voila. The sound is reduced significantly without pulling the door knob.
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post #10 of 13 Old 10-21-2017, 03:04 PM - Thread Starter
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The place my GC ordered the door from failed to process the order, so now the 6 week lead time for a door would need to reset. Everything else will be done in three. Looking to see if any big box stores or online sources have anything with a shorter lead time. Anyone have any recommendations for brands/models that worked for them or anything to avoid? Thanks!
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post #11 of 13 Old 10-21-2017, 04:46 PM
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It usually takes me two weeks to get a door of my choice in a custom width jam. It's a custom mill-work shop in Fredericksburg VA.
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post #12 of 13 Old 10-22-2017, 03:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
The chance of damaging the unit is low if there is a return elsewhere in the house. The chance of you being miserable due to the heat and stuffy air is 100% if there isn't a dedicated return for the theater space. This is a common builder error. Of course there are a lot of other details about building your theater we could discuss other than the doors.
Sorry for the off topic question but if in the designing phase of my room. I plan on using a ductless mini split, do you still need a return with this type of setup?

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post #13 of 13 Old 10-22-2017, 07:25 AM
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Sorry for the off topic question but if in the designing phase of my room. I plan on using a ductless mini split, do you still need a return with this type of setup?
most ductless minisplits are wall hung units that draw in air, pass it over cooling coils, and spit if back into the room. That means the room is a sealed closed loop system and you have to think about whether the size of the room and occupancy will result in an uncomfortable build up of CO2. There are a few units that have a provision for drawing in air from outside the theater. You nay be able to get by with just opening the door periodically. However the best practice would be to provide for fresh air in the theater.
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