'The Island View Theater' build thread - Page 13 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #361 of 409 Old 03-13-2019, 05:38 AM
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Originally Posted by dkersten View Post
So here is a pic that is a fair representation of the degradation/burnup of the LED strip lights in the coffers. The left side is the end of the run, the corner moving right is where the run starts. All 12 coffers are like this and seem to be getting worse. I have had the lights on for probably around 150 hours now total...
Ugh, that really blows! IT really was a great job tho!

Not to rub salt in the wound, but this is really why I paid a bit extra for my LEDs. They've been up and running for 2-3 years now, multiple times a week, and I have ZERO of these problems. Check out FlexFire LEDs, I used them for all of the LEDs in my room.
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post #362 of 409 Old 03-13-2019, 07:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Not to rub salt in the wound, but this is really why I paid a bit extra for my LEDs. They've been up and running for 2-3 years now, multiple times a week, and I have ZERO of these problems. Check out FlexFire LEDs, I used them for all of the LEDs in my room.
I did look at those when I was first shopping, and at 10x the cost of the basic chinese imports, it was just simply out of the budget. For example, the current setup I am working on would have been in the $2500 range just for the LED strips, and if I had gotten my controllers from them (rebranded Mi-Light controllers) I would have been into the $600-800 range for those parts as well.. It is well worth my time to save ~$3000 even if I have to do it twice.

Don't get me wrong, using strips from retailers that offer warranties ensures that you are getting much higher quality control, which will lead to better uniformity, fewer failures, and overall better reliability. But when it comes down to it, the design is the same, the SMD5050 LED's are probably sourced from the exact same factories, and the key difference is quality control, both on the factory line and probably after the product arrives on the boat.

Without yanking out the old lighting strips that I glued down a little too well, I am 90% sure this is an issue with the silicon coating on the strips. I used a cheap 12v warm white strip under and over my cabinets in my kitchen and they have been on for over a thousand hours in the past year and have no degradation, the only difference being the silicon jacket. I have used the waterproof stuff before in outdoor applications with no issues, but never in a situation where the light strips were tucked into a pocket up near the top of the ceiling where they couldn't cool down easily. I am sure these got into the 200 degree range and just darkened the silicon jacket. It is even possible that if I had fed the 20' long strips from both ends that the ends wouldn't have gotten quite as hot (half the amperage going through each end, less heat). The rest of the LED strip is fine even after hundreds of hours being on.

I only went with the waterproof ones because I was looking for 10 meter spools of 24 volt warm white, and they are really hard to find. 5 meter spools are far easier to source, and 12v is something you can get anywhere. To add to the challenge, when I needed it, I needed it within a week, so ordering from China was not an option, which limited me even further. If I could have found a non waterproof version, I would have done it, and I probably wouldn't have this problem today. This was just as much my fault as it is the cheap LED strips... Live and learn, lol.

Like I mentioned earlier, when the new strips arrive, I will do a full blown burn in test before they leave the shop. I will solder the spools together, cut my 20' lengths out, wire both ends in a loop, glue them to whatever base I end up using to keep them rigid and straight, and then run them for a hundred hours straight in the shop. Any segments that fail I will replace, and if I find any degradation, I will rethink the situation before installing them. In my experience with LED's, if they work for the first 10-20 hours, they will work for the entire rated life, assuming you don't overpower them.

Anyway, the power supplies I ordered a couple weeks ago showed up yesterday. I stuck with the MeanWell brand as they seem to have the best QC. The first 24v power supply I bought last year dropped to 18 volts with just a couple amps of load, and it was rated at 500 watts! I hope I have better luck with these. I have one more on the way now, and will get another coming next week when they are back in stock.

I'm gone next week for a well needed vacation, so of course I am sure everything will show up then. I even wouldn't be surprised if my projector ships and arrives next week while I am gone, lol. Wouldn't that be nice...
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post #363 of 409 Old 03-13-2019, 08:30 PM
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LOL! Of course it will all show up when you are not there!

I wonder if there is a chemical to clear up the strips you already have? Might be hard to apply but like plastic headlights, if you spray clearcoat on them they clear up right away! I have not researched the composition but might be worth a try?

Have a good time on your vacation! Anywhere warm?


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post #364 of 409 Old 03-14-2019, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by dkersten View Post
I did look at those when I was first shopping, and at 10x the cost of the basic chinese imports, it was just simply out of the budget. For example, the current setup I am working on would have been in the $2500 range just for the LED strips, and if I had gotten my controllers from them (rebranded Mi-Light controllers) I would have been into the $600-800 range for those parts as well.. It is well worth my time to save ~$3000 even if I have to do it twice.

Don't get me wrong, using strips from retailers that offer warranties ensures that you are getting much higher quality control, which will lead to better uniformity, fewer failures, and overall better reliability. But when it comes down to it, the design is the same, the SMD5050 LED's are probably sourced from the exact same factories, and the key difference is quality control, both on the factory line and probably after the product arrives on the boat.
Yeah, I dig it, and you're definitely not wrong about that price difference. I was researching and doing it 3-4 years ago, when there was a lot less on the market. Those guys had a ton of awesome how-to videos, and a solid rep. I went back and forth a million times, then decided to bite the bullet and buy their stuff. I feel your pain on the price difference, but I've never had a problem with them, all the way down to having them switched and dimmed off the Lutron wireless system I have.

That being said, I'm REALLY hoping that those secondary markets like you used have matured in the next few years before Theater 2.0 is built. I'd love to whack 50-75% off my lighting budget!
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post #365 of 409 Old 03-14-2019, 07:10 AM - Thread Starter
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LOL! Of course it will all show up when you are not there!

I wonder if there is a chemical to clear up the strips you already have? Might be hard to apply but like plastic headlights, if you spray clearcoat on them they clear up right away! I have not researched the composition but might be worth a try?

Have a good time on your vacation! Anywhere warm?

I thought about trying something but in order to get them to a place I can even see them, I would have to unwire them, peel up the hot glue, and then pull a few feet out. They have the double stick tape to a nice clean MDF surface, followed by hot glue every 6 inches, so unfortunately it is not an easy task to even get the strips to a point where I can inspect them, let alone try to clean them off. Besides, my best guess is that the silicone itself darkened, and there is no cleaning that. I am pretty confident it isn't something on the surface of the silicone.

We're heading to Phoenix for a few days, then over to Vegas for the rest of the week. Warmer weather, but it's gonna be in the 40's and 50's here, a veritable heat wave. I kinda wish it would stay in the -25's here while we are gone, lol. Maybe I will return to no more 6" ice ruts in our carriage lane and a bunch of boxes of cool stuff waiting to play with...
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post #366 of 409 Old 03-14-2019, 11:03 AM
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I thought about trying something but in order to get them to a place I can even see them, I would have to unwire them, peel up the hot glue, and then pull a few feet out. They have the double stick tape to a nice clean MDF surface, followed by hot glue every 6 inches, so unfortunately it is not an easy task to even get the strips to a point where I can inspect them, let alone try to clean them off. Besides, my best guess is that the silicone itself darkened, and there is no cleaning that. I am pretty confident it isn't something on the surface of the silicone.

We're heading to Phoenix for a few days, then over to Vegas for the rest of the week. Warmer weather, but it's gonna be in the 40's and 50's here, a veritable heat wave. I kinda wish it would stay in the -25's here while we are gone, lol. Maybe I will return to no more 6" ice ruts in our carriage lane and a bunch of boxes of cool stuff waiting to play with...
Enjoy your trip!

After yesterdays storm, it's time to go over to Moab and hang out there for a while! Weather is warming up over there as well! Maybe get some more done on the addition and closer to starting the theater!!
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I would love to get back out to Moab for Easter Jeep Safari or sometime to go 4 wheeling again. I would have to rent something now since I don't have a Jeep anymore and that hobby kind of went away when our son came along 10 years ago. I am not sure my wife and kid would like it though. My didn't like it when we were driving up Estes Park road to the top of the mountain. She made me turn around. Moab would scare the hell out of her. I was a little nervous my year there in 2000, but had no issues in 2001.

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post #368 of 409 Old 03-27-2019, 09:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Things are moving again... After returning home from vacation I was inspired to get back to work. Unfortunately my new projector is still not on the way, but I have plenty to do yet, and although there are hundreds of little details to get done before any real progress is made, I know the only way to get moving is to just start working on it. Thankfully the weather is no longer in the negatives, and it even got into the 60's, so snow is melting and it feels good to get outside.

Although I was up hella early on Friday to catch a 6 am plane from Vegas to home, I took advantage of the nice weather to hit the hardware store and pick up about 15 2x4's to get some more framing done on the rec room. Then I dug in to one of the many items on the list to fix before I can start thinking drywall. This might not seem like part of the theater, but in order to get the second door on the theater and finish the soundproofing and the entrance to the room, I need to get going on drywall, and I can't do that until electrical and framing is complete.

I have a fireplace in the house, and to accommodate it, they had to bump out the foundation. This carries all the way to the basement, and left me with a good opportunity for a nice feature in the rec room. But it needed to be framed in so I can insulate and drywall. First step, clear it out. This was a pain as there was more than just some insulation and framing in the way, I had months of miscellaneous items stacked along that wall.


Then I got the back and side walls framed in and connected to the existing baseplate. From there I could square it up and get it level and plumb. Then I could cut the baseplate to complete the opening. The top of the opening is 8 feet up, and that allowed me to put a light in the nook.


After a little more framing to accommodate drywall, I was able to move on to electrical, which again was a chore. I not only had several items stored along the back wall of the rec room, some of it was the pool table and the heavy slate that goes with it. Once it was all cleared out, I had to pull insulation up to drill holes and feed romex. It took the better part of the day to install 5 more outlets in the room, including one that will be at the back of the nook, but it is finally done. I replaced all the insulation and then cut and installed the insulation around the nook.


I then framed out one small area around an HVAC return that couldn't be avoided (it is above where the bar will go, to the left of the Theater entrance). With that done, I just have a few more details left before I can start drywalling the ceiling. First, I needed to rethink the exhaust fan for the theater air circulation system. Despite using a couple IB-3 clips to isolate it, these 300cfm fans vibrate and it was audible upstairs in the living room. I removed the bolts and suspended it with zip ties. I will finish with some rigid fiberglass around the fan (leaving enough room to reach up in there to service or replace it later). Ultimately I will leave an opening in the ceiling that I will cover with an access panel so I can service the fan in the future.

I still need to move some water lines that are too close to the edge of the trusses and could easily be hit in the future if putting any kind of nail or screw in the ceiling. Then I need to build the vent box for the exhaust vent, which I decided to just do with 1/2" MDF and a 6" collar to adapt the flex duct to the box. And finally, I need to insulate the ceiling. This will go a long way toward reducing sound from the rec room from getting up into the living room above. It isn't actual soundproofing, but for reducing upper frequencies it is plenty effective. I have 16" of depth in the trusses, so filling that with 12-14" of pink fluffy will do the trick.

Once that is done it will be time to sling some drywall on the ceiling. And after that, the outside of the theater wall will get a single layer of 5/8, and the rest will get some regular 1/2".

I hope to get the insulation in this next weekend, and maybe even start getting a few sheets up on the ceiling.

In more theater related news, I got the fan installed for the projector and tested that out. The 12v trigger turns the fan on, and then when the projector turns off the fan stays on for about 10 minutes. It works perfectly, and despite the fan being fairly loud and vibrating like crazy, inside the theater you can barely hear it from 2 feet away. It is rated at about 110 cfm, and I need about 95cfm for the projector, so I think I am good. Once the projector box is enclosed, I don't think I will hear anything from the circulation system. If I can knock the projector noise down by 6-10 db when on high fan, it will be virtually silent from the seats, and that is the goal.

The RGBW lighting all showed up, so at some point I will work on getting that all cut and soldered, tested, burned in, and eventually installed. I found some drop ceiling wire and I think it will be perfect for attaching to the LED strips so I can just drop it all into place and feed the power wires through and hook it all up. I really want to get the rec room further along though, so my focus is on that right now. I will also probably keep working toward finishing the rest of the basement in the coming months, but with so much to do, I am just taking it a day at a time...

Finally, I took a couple pics of the current state of the theater. As panels went up I don't know if I posted any broader pics. So here are a couple. The carpet of course is darker in person, but without good lighting and a good camera (and someone to operate it), this is the best I can get. It is also fairly dirty as I have not yet taken the time to go and dust, wipe down panels, and touch up paint. I do plan to have it all professionally photographed when it is "done"...




And one shot along the wall, showing how the varying depths turned out.


More to come in the next couple months...
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post #369 of 409 Old 04-01-2019, 08:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Productive weekend, again mostly focused on the rec room outside the theater.

First thing I did was hit the shop and build a box for the theater air circulation exhaust. Simple 12x12x14 box built from 1/2" MDF with a 6" collar mounted in it to fit the 6" flex duct. Got it mounted up centered between two lights.


While in the shop, I decided to cut the drop ceiling hangers to length with the chop saw. I made some serious sparks, but I was able to chop all 50 at once, lol. It was kinda fun.



Here's a pic of the fan motor, which sits a couple feet from the theater wall. I suspended it with zip ties to keep the vibrations down, and then after this pic, I surrounded it with insulation to lower the amount of noise that goes up into the living room above. Of course I left some room around it so it doesn't overheat, and I ordered up a 14x14" door that will go in the ceiling to allow for access to the motor if I ever need to service it.


I then moved a few water lines to get them up out of the way in case I missed with any screws, then hit the hardware store for some insulation. The space between trusses is 12.5" (went with 16" centers to keep the floor from being too bouncy above, and since the trusses are 3.5" wide, there isn't much room between them). I used the 9" deep 15" wide pink fluffy just to kill some of the sound coming from the rec room up to the living room. With the ceiling all filled, I was ready for drywall..


But, the 1/2" stuff was below 6 more sheets of 5/8", and since I was going solo on Saturday, I got started on the theater wall. I managed to get 3 sheets up, doing my best to keep the dust down. The door seal at the bottom of the theater door did a decent job of keeping the dust from the dremel out of the theater. Unfortunately I eventually had to use an outlet in the theater to power the dremel for some of the outlet holes, so I ended up tracking some dust in there. Nothing a vacuum can't clean up... Anyway, the theater side wall was starting to look like a wall when I called it a night.


The next morning my son came over, and then another friend, and we made some serious progress. Got the 4th sheet up on the theater wall, which came out horrible as I misjudged a couple of the cuts and had to patch a little drywall in, but nothing a little mud can't fix. Then we busted out the drywall lift and started slinging the 1/2" ultralight sheets up on the ceiling. Lighter drywall, no green glue, and some easy cuts made this much more fun than doing the theater ceiling. Having help was even better. With the stack of drywall in the middle of the room, we couldn't use the lift on all pieces, but 3 people and a couple ladders made it pretty easy...


After a little cleanup, we called it a night. The ceiling is all up, and two walls are mostly done.


So I decided yesterday to frame the bar in and drywall it, rather than build a standalone bar later. So now I have a little more framing to do, which is why the corner isn't drywalled in yet. Also the two exterior walls are the most exposed walls as far as potential moisture, and while the concrete is well sealed on the exterior side, I am going to go ahead and throw up a moisture barrier before the drywall goes up. We have very low humidity and moisture is almost never an issue here, but if there is ever a chance that condensation could happen on my basement walls, it would be in the NW corner and along the north wall, and this room is in the NW corner of the house. So it is an easy precaution that could prevent a little mold in the future. Not required, but prudent.

Also, the builders of the house framed the window VERY loosely, meaning I need to fill in 3" all the way around before I am even close to ready for casing the window. If I don't build up the frame around the opening, I will be shimming 3-4" when I go to case it, which will mean I need over 5" of trim to cover it up. So when I pick up the lumber for the bar, I will get some more for the window frame.

Stopping to consider the moisture barrier got me to realize the window issue, so it was good that I stopped where I did. I will try to get those details finished this week and next weekend I will finish the drywall in this room. Then I have to decide if I want to move everything out of the other side of the basement and finish wiring, insulation, framing, and drywall and then mud/tape all in one shot, or if I want to get the rec room done and deal with the other side as a separate project.
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post #370 of 409 Old 04-02-2019, 03:41 PM - Thread Starter
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I got notice that my projector shipped and I should have it before the end of the week.

I'm not as excited as I was back in November and December, partly because I have some steam going now and want to keep pushing ahead with the basement. It will take a day to get the new projector installed and dialed in, especially if I finish building the hush box at the same time. Chances are I will get it installed and then end up watching movies the rest of the weekend, lol.
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post #371 of 409 Old 04-04-2019, 02:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Projector won't get here until next week, but I scheduled the mini-split to be installed in the theater next week... I put that one off for a while, partly to see how necessary it would be and partly because I ran out of money for a while, lol. Turns out I need it more for heat than for cool, but it will come in handy for cool once in a while... With no HVAC, it stays about 65 in there during the winter, and maybe 68 in the summer, and that's a bit too cold for my taste. So I went ahead and got a quote from a dealer who knew what they were talking about when it comes to Mitsubishi mini-splits (surprisingly harder to find than I expected), and at just under $3k installed, I pulled the trigger.

If you've been following, you might recall that the original HVAC contractor sized the room for 15-18k BTU of cooling, which is overkill considering all electronics are in another room and 99% of the time there is only 2 people in a very well insulated and sealed 17x26x9 room that resides underground. Unfortunately I paid good money to have a line set pre-run for this, and it turns out that for 15k and up, you use 1/2" for the return line, and that doesn't work with units under a ton. So I am having a new line set run. Actually, the savings on going with a 12k btu unit over a 15k btu unit paid for the new lineset, but I sure wish I had done more research before I paid for that larger line set. Oh well, money is already spent and the smaller unit is 8db quieter, so it is well worth it.

I will need to look into a wrap for the unit in the theater since it is white... Or I will just take off the cover and paint it black...

So the next week will be interesting. I will continue to drywall the rec room, the projector should be in early next week, Thursday the mini-split gets installed, and Friday we are hosting a neighborhood gathering for 15-25 guests... So a bit of a mad dash to get drywall done, the room cleaned up, the new projector up and running for demo's, and of course the entire rest of the house cleaned up and ready for a bunch of neighbors to come visit and tour the house...


In other news, last night I decided to radically change my design on the rec room. I started framing out the small bar and realized how much that would impede on the pool table. After some discussion we decided the space is better suited for a liquor cabinet against the wall than a small bar anyway. But then I threw out the idea of scrapping the pool table completely. I'd been planning to use it since pretty much day 1, partly because I had the pool table already and partly because what is a rec room without a pool table... ? But the truth is, I didn't use it in the old house. I maybe shot 2 games in the last 2 years of owning it, and while guests would use it, it was more for decoration than anything else.

The rec room is about 18' x 16' with 9' ceilings and a 3.5x3.5' corner taken by the closet in the corner by the stairs. It is plenty big enough for the pool table, but the pool table would pretty much dominate the space. The more I thought about it, I realized I would prefer a space that groups of 6-12 people could comfortably hang out and not be in isolated groups, and not be forced to all stand around for hours. As we get older, having a place to sit is nice, but that usually means smaller groups.

So with the idea of not having a pool table in that room, my mind started envisioning a "statement piece" coffee table that can convert to a gaming table or even a poker table, surrounded by a fairly large U shaped sectional that 8-10 people could sit at. Add a couple smaller single seats opposite the couch and you have room for 12 people to sit and socialize.

The arcade cabinet will still fit nicely in the corner I had planned, the nook in the foundation wall will still end up being for display and a mini-fridge, and I'll still have room for the dart board. And best of all, I am wired for a pool table light (or a disco ball, lol) in the center of the room and I can always change things around if I wanted to. Hell, I might just change my mind and go with an air hockey table where the pool table was going to go, lol.

To keep myself from waffling, I called my son and offered to give him my pool table, which he quickly accepted. That solves another problem which is the 3 pieces of heavy slate that are in my way right now, lol. I told him to get a strong friend and come get it before the weekend...

Anyway, last night I added another layer of framing to the window so I will be able to easily trim it out after the drywall is done, and in the process I managed to pull a muscle in my back. It will be slow going for a couple days, but I am determined to have the drywall done in the rec room by the end of the weekend.
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post #372 of 409 Old 04-04-2019, 04:25 PM
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I too wondered about a pool table but cards and board games get so many more people involved and are great for the kids too! I think you have made a great choice but of course that is my opinion.

I too, have been getting an education on mini splits. In my case, I will install all of my own gear probably except charging the system.

You have made some great choices!

Thanks for sharing!
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post #373 of 409 Old 04-05-2019, 06:56 AM
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Great idea with the gaming table! Do you plan to build it yourself, or source one that's ready to go? I've been hoping to build one of my own eventually after the basement and theatre are finished, and there are tons of great ideas online for DIY tables, and some beautiful pro options available for inspiration (or purchase if you have the cash!).

Companies like Geek Chic paved the way (then went out of business, then were restarted as Bandpass Designs), and there are a few others I like too, like Wyrmwood and Wheatland Woodwork. There are a ton of neat ideas for compartments, LED lighting, removable tabletops, and even inset large format displays. You can have a lot of fun with that project if you want to.

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post #374 of 409 Old 04-05-2019, 11:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Great idea with the gaming table! Do you plan to build it yourself, or source one that's ready to go?
I would probably build it myself. My only problem with this is time.. I have so many projects that need to get done this year, it could be over a year before I will have the time to build one.
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post #375 of 409 Old 04-05-2019, 04:35 PM
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I would probably build it myself. My only problem with this is time.. I have so many projects that need to get done this year, it could be over a year before I will have the time to build one.
Yeah, mine is a very distant project too. I just take a look once in a while to get ideas. Might as well start planning early to make sure I get all the cool feature ideas I like.

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post #376 of 409 Old 04-08-2019, 08:27 AM
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Companies like Geek Chic paved the way (then went out of business, then were restarted as Bandpass Designs), and there are a few others I like too, like Wyrmwood and Wheatland Woodwork.
I'm not a board gamer but I enjoy poker. But as a woodworker the craftsmanship on the Wyrmwood tables is phenomenal to behold - and the lift mechanism is beyond cool. I very much like the Bandpass design one as well being a big fan of mid century furniture.
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post #377 of 409 Old 04-08-2019, 09:12 AM
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Wow. Those tables are nice! I'd love to have one, even for just playing Monopoly with the kids. But whew, they've got a price tag. I suppose that's the price of something purpose built, though.

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!
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post #378 of 409 Old 04-08-2019, 11:15 AM - Thread Starter
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The weekend was productive, but all spent on the rec room space outside the theater room. I got the rest of the drywall up and took care of a few little details. I even got one door hung for the closet under the stairs. It's amazing how much drywall can transform a space. I also did a little furniture shopping and started thinking about wall color and carpet. Nothing terribly exciting, but it was satisfying to get this step done. Now I have to decide if I am going to work on drywalling the other side of the basement next, or get the stairwell and rec room finished first. It would be nice to have it finished as we go down to the theater several times a week and it's getting tiring walking through the unfinished construction zone. But if I do, it could be months before I finish the rest of the basement, including the bathroom, and it would be nice to have a functioning bathroom in the basement as well, lol. Decisions, decisions.







It's amazing how much dust just cutting and hanging drywall makes. I swept up thoroughly before these pics, and then later went back and hit it all with a Dyson vacuum, and probably pulled another 3-4 cups worth of dust off the floor!


In other news, the tracking number I got for the projector shows it hasn't shipped, and now it shows the destination is somewhere in Canada! I informed my dealer that while the rest of the U.S. wants to sell Montana to Canada, we are still part of the U.S. for the time being, lol. I still hope to see the projector before the end of the week, preferably before it travels several thousand miles in the back of a UPS truck, particularly given how prone these new JVC's are to shipping damage.
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post #379 of 409 Old 04-09-2019, 07:50 AM
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Catching up on a few threads as a 'break' from work. Excellent progress! Really coming together.

My vote is to push forward with hanging the drywall. Nothing feels more like accomplishment than using up a virtually immovable stack of drywall. I had all my theater 5/8" sheets in the main basement hallway and it was WONDERFUL to have all of that material gone and installed. Plus you have the extra motivation of wanting to do the taping after finishing...plus the all-important downstairs bathroom!

Which inline fan did you go with and how are you controlling it??
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post #380 of 409 Old 04-12-2019, 09:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Which inline fan did you go with and how are you controlling it??
I went with two of these for the air circulation, and this 4" model for the projector circulation.

The air circulation is switched off one of the light switches by the door. I have that powering 3 outlets in the equipment room and each have a basic fan controller plugged in between the fan and the outlet. The one up in the ceiling in the rec room uses an inlet to go from the outlet, through the controller, and back to romex that runs to the fan itself. The controllers do make the fans noisier as you turn them down, but it is effective for getting the flow down to a near silent level.

The projector is controlled off the 12v trigger on the projector, with a timer circuit and a couple relays that allow it to stay on for 10 minutes after the projector is powered off. At this point I run it wide open as I need 95cfm minimum, and the fan is rated at 113 cfm, and I am sure I am losing some through the 4" ducting. I am hoping once I seal off the projector that it can keep up, if not I will have to go to something bigger to suck more hot air out.

Now between the circulation fans, the projector exhaust, the projector itself, and the minisplit, despite everything being quiet and very low frequency, the noise floor has increased in the room and without anything playing it is very noticeable. In a normal room it would never be noticeable, just present. It's like when the power goes out in the middle of the night, and the sudden lack of hearing the low drone of various mechanicals in your house wakes you up.
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post #381 of 409 Old 04-12-2019, 09:15 AM - Thread Starter
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OK, a couple BIG ticket items checked off.

First, minisplit. I went with a 12k btu Mitsubishi mini split unit. It ended up costing $3k, because I just wanted it done and didn't want to deal with installing it, then trying to convince some company to come charge the lines, and then of course if there were any issues, they would point the finger at my install work. We did have to pull another lineset, but it went really well, and nothing is intrusive.

The pre-install box that my last HVAC people put in was worthless. The drain on these is on the end and they installed it dead center, so it was never going to work. The upside is I can now patch in the double drywall in that spot and close up that hole without having to putty the heck out of a cheap plastic box. We were still able to use the drain that I installed, they just cut it off and put a fitting on and done..

I took a couple pics while they were working




Of course, at the same time this was happening, my projector arrived! 5.5 months of waiting finally paid off.

This thing is a beast! The Epson wasn't exactly small, and this is significantly larger. And heavier, lol. It put some strain on my shoulders getting this beast up onto the shelf.




Long story short, the new projector is in, the Paladin DCR is mounted, and it is all working very nicely. There were some challenges and I had to improvise a little to get it all mounted up and lined up nicely, but now it is done. Once I got the tone mapping figured out on the JVC, my HDR came to life! I am even able to use the color filter to get all the P3 color gamut and the cost in light was more than made up for with the A-Lens. I will do some more critical watching this weekend of course, but so far it was worth the ~$12k upgrade. It was an expensive week though, totalling $15k and bringing the total budget on the theater to over $65k! Imagine if I had to pay someone to do all this work... Nobody could ever say that DIY didn't save me hundreds of thousands of dollars...


And one final pic of both my new "investments" in one shot. Yes, I plan to do a wrap or some paint on that Mits Mini-split, but I still have a lot of work ahead of me, so it might take a while to get around to it..
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post #382 of 409 Old 04-12-2019, 09:51 AM
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Very cool!
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post #383 of 409 Old 04-12-2019, 10:55 AM
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Awesome update, but what are we looking at in that last one??

It looks like the shadowbox w/the PJ in it, sits on the wall above the minisplit. The thing that's catching my eye is that it looks like the minisplit is ~ 1/2 the size of the hush box??

Is that a trick of perspective, or am I right?
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post #384 of 409 Old 04-12-2019, 03:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Awesome update, but what are we looking at in that last one??

It looks like the shadowbox w/the PJ in it, sits on the wall above the minisplit. The thing that's catching my eye is that it looks like the minisplit is ~ 1/2 the size of the hush box??

Is that a trick of perspective, or am I right?
Just a trick of the camera

The hush box sits about 3 feet off the back wall, extending another 2.5 feet toward the front of the room (about 32 inches deep, 22 inches wide, and 12 inches tall). The rear of the room is almost all 18" off the back wall, with columns, bass traps, and a fresh air circulation vent all flush with each other, and a space about 5' tall and 4' wide that is at the depth of the regular drywall wall. It gives the effect that there is a nook there, and the minisplit sits in that nook. It is mounted where the top of the unit is just a little higher than the bottom of the projector hush box, but there is about 30 inches between them, so from this angle it looks like they are connected but they aren't, and the perspective makes the minisplit look pretty small. In fact, it is around 3' wide, so a bit wider than the hush box.

I will try to get a pic of the rear from an angle that shows it off.

Before I am done, the plan is to fill most of the nook with a large wide-band diffusor that pretty much wraps around the mini-split unit, hiding the last bit of drywall. The nice thing is the equipment room is on the other side of that wall, so I could easily pop a hole in the wall and feed power and HDMI through and put a bluray player on the shelf there, giving me easy access. Of course, all my media goes to disk before I watch it, so it isn't necessary, but it's always an option.
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post #385 of 409 Old 04-13-2019, 04:41 AM
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Nice progress and I am wanting a mini split, but the wife doesn't like the price for one room.

What are you going to do with the Epson projector? Is it going up for sale.

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post #386 of 409 Old 04-13-2019, 11:23 AM
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Just a trick of the camera

The hush box sits about 3 feet off the back wall, extending another 2.5 feet toward the front of the room (about 32 inches deep, 22 inches wide, and 12 inches tall). The rear of the room is almost all 18" off the back wall, with columns, bass traps, and a fresh air circulation vent all flush with each other, and a space about 5' tall and 4' wide that is at the depth of the regular drywall wall. It gives the effect that there is a nook there, and the minisplit sits in that nook. It is mounted where the top of the unit is just a little higher than the bottom of the projector hush box, but there is about 30 inches between them, so from this angle it looks like they are connected but they aren't, and the perspective makes the minisplit look pretty small. In fact, it is around 3' wide, so a bit wider than the hush box.

I will try to get a pic of the rear from an angle that shows it off.

Before I am done, the plan is to fill most of the nook with a large wide-band diffusor that pretty much wraps around the mini-split unit, hiding the last bit of drywall. The nice thing is the equipment room is on the other side of that wall, so I could easily pop a hole in the wall and feed power and HDMI through and put a bluray player on the shelf there, giving me easy access. Of course, all my media goes to disk before I watch it, so it isn't necessary, but it's always an option.
Ok, I think I get it. Very cool design, and thanks for the explanation!
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post #387 of 409 Old 04-13-2019, 11:37 AM
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Regarding the HVAC, i read many times in this forum about how hot a theater room gets, especially when the equipment is inside. If anything, even in the summer, my room gets a bit chilly and we like to sit in the recliners with a blanket.
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post #388 of 409 Old 04-15-2019, 04:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Regarding the HVAC, i read many times in this forum about how hot a theater room gets, especially when the equipment is inside. If anything, even in the summer, my room gets a bit chilly and we like to sit in the recliners with a blanket.
Friday night we had a social event at my house, and at one point we packed in 9 people into the theater and were in there for maybe 15-20 minutes and it was already starting to get warm. Bodies generate a lot of heat, and of course they consume oxygen and exhale CO2, so it doesn't take long to need both something to cool the air and something to exchange the air for fresher air.

I can turn on just the 12 can lights and after about 30 minutes it starts warming up, and after an hour with nobody else in the room, it is over 70 degrees in there no matter what time of year, and that is just too warm even in the winter time. It's amazing how quickly a well insulated and sealed room will warm up with even a small source of heat.

But yeah, with just me and the woman in there, especially this time of year when the ground is still frozen but it is warm enough upstairs to keep the heat from running, it stays around 63-65 degrees in the theater unless I leave the lights on. 4 or 5 people for 2 hours can be kept comfortable with just the air circulation. But a full room definitely warrants air conditioning.

I'm really liking the mini-split. Even with nothing else on in the room, I can't hear it running unless I get within about 7 feet of the unit. And even right next to it, the 22db rating is definitely too high, it is easily 20db or quieter. Way more comfortable in the room. I easily could have gone for half the capacity though, even 12k BTU is overkill.
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post #389 of 409 Old 04-15-2019, 04:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Nice progress and I am wanting a mini split, but the wife doesn't like the price for one room.

What are you going to do with the Epson projector? Is it going up for sale.
It sure is a lot of money for one room, but when you add everything up, even with a budget system, theater rooms are not cheap. The Mr.Cool minisplits are a pretty good deal for a DIY, far less than a Mitsubishi installed by a dealer...

I will probably get the Epson up for sale this week, $1600 with the Chief RPA mount and plate. I just remembered that I forgot to get the hours off it before taking it down though, lol, whoops, I guess I gotta plug it in and get that information...
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post #390 of 409 Old 04-15-2019, 04:29 PM
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Im assuming your can lights are maybe halogen vs led?
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