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post #1 of 416 Old 09-01-2017, 05:09 PM - Thread Starter
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'The Island View Theater' build thread

Formerly the "I suck at naming things" build thread.
____

OK, so now that things are moving along, I am editing this first post. After consideration (discussed below and over several months), I came down to two names I liked for the theater. The first is the uninspired but rather catchy "Island View Theater". The street where I built the house is called Island View Drive, and although there is no tropical islands around here for a few thousand miles, it sounds like a nice getaway. The other option is "The Rabbit Hole". This name actually fits the situation perfectly, and is a bit catchy as well. Read my You guys ruined me thread in the DIY section for my path from a small subwoofer upgrade to building a house around a desired theater space. The problem with the name is it requires the back story to understand. The only rabbit I ever bought for my kids lasted less than a year before it died from neglect, and rabbits in my city are like rats in New York - a plague that is getting out of control, lol. So it takes a few steps to get someone to connect the dots from rabbits to a theater room. So to keep it simple, I will be welcoming people to the "Island View Theater".


The Lowdown

I've recently built a new house. When deciding to build, I came up with a list of priorities based on previous renovations, purchases, and lifestyle choices. I've added game rooms, pool tables, arcade machines, nice kitchens, reading nooks, outdoor spaces, gas fire pits, hot tubs, dedicated computer rooms, etc. and I found I never utilized them after the first few months. The only two things I found myself using year after year were the shop and the theater. So those were at the top of the list. Finding an existing house with accommodation for those two things was difficult at best, even with a healthy budget. So building became the goal, and building it around those two things became fundamental.

For the theater, I wanted 9 foot ceilings with no obstructions. That meant a trussed ceiling. I wanted it big, for two reasons: sound quality and to accommodate guests. My last theater was small and perfect for just me and my girlfriend, but really once you added a third, it was cramped and nobody else got a good seat after that, so having friends over to watch a movie was always a pain. I also want "wow factor", and let's face it, like cars, there is no replacement for displacement.

The final room, without the clips, hat channel, or double drywall comes in at 26' deep, 17' 2.5" wide, 9' high. Plenty of room for two rows of 4 seats and even a bar at the back (just in case). 95% of the time it will be me and the girlfriend, but why go through the trouble of building a whole new house if you aren't going to start planning for all the little things, like super bowl parties and movie nights with friends?

Audio and Video

I am stepping up the audio system, because in my mind I can always go to a commercial theater and see a really big screen, but great audio is rare outside of the home. I don't even go to the theater unless the movie is playing on the Imax, and frankly I am even starting to feel the sound there isn't as good as it should be. This is crazy because I fell down the rabbit hole based on seeing the new Star Wars Ep 7 at the brand new Imax about 2 years ago, and now I am not just trying to get that good of sound, I am wanting to make it better. However, I am not rich, and while I am spending what I feel is "stupid amounts of money" on this theater (and on the house in general), I can't just spring for the best of the best.

So here is the plan:

7.2.4 using a (soon to be) modified Emotiva XMC-1. The two pieces I kept from my old theater were the XMC-1 and the XPA5, and everything else went to the new homeowner for a ridiculously low price. He is happy though, and I sold my house in 3 hours, so I guess I am happy too. Emotiva is being Emotiva and taking forever to release this update, but hopefully it will be released in q2 of 2018, which still works for my schedule, otherwise I will have to rethink this part. Update: Now Emotiva says late summer, which really means Q4 at the earliest, so I am shopping other options, leaning toward a Marantz 7703, which I can use until the Emotiva update comes out, then once upgraded, sell for most of what it costs. Win-Win (I think).

Like I said, I have one XPA5, and I was planning to get a shiny new XPA7 to go with it, but after shopping around, I settled on adding another XPA5 and an XPA3, which saved a bit of money over the XPA7 and even gives me two more channels in case I decide to go with front wides some day.

For subs and speakers I am going pure DIY. Front stage will be Titan LX's. Surrounds will be Volt 10lx all the way around, including the Atmos speakers. All this is purchased and sitting in my shop waiting to be built.

Subs will be 6 of the UM18's. I had 2 in my last system and loved it but wanted more. These were on backorder for like 6 months, but I ordered them before I even started this thread and finally got them in December. I hope they are all good, they are backordered again, so if any are bad I could be down some subs for a while. I decided to go ported, where I had sealed before. I went back and forth on amps and even asked for help picking, but I can't help but see the bang for the buck with three inuke 6000dsp's. I pulled the trigger on these in February so I am locked in.

Projector was going to be the JVC 640, but brightness considerations made this unrealistic. I would love a laser, but short of blowing my budget on one piece, that just isn't an option. That being said, I grew tired of my "puny" 120" screen in the old theater, and want a little more real estate, so I will be casting it onto a ~150" wide 2.35:1 screen. For now I will use zoom to get the scope format and I might make some panels for masking, but this isn't a big concern for me. I have lived with bars on top and bottom of the screen for years, now I will just deal with bars on the side. I am still up in the air on the screen choice. For HDR I need brightness, and even with an Epson 5040 uncalibrated, I need gain to get the requisite 30fL needed for HDR to look halfway decent. Finding an AT screen with gain that doesn't cost more than a car is kind of a challenge. The screen wall will sit 30" from the front wall, giving me ample space for my speakers, subs, and a little room to breathe.

When I add it all up, even already owning the base XMC-1 and one amp, I am finding myself somewhere in the $20-24k range for electronics……. Ugh. But I am not discouraged.

The Room

The room is, as I alluded to earlier, going to start with a nice clean soundproof shell. Double 5/8" drywall with GG over hat channel and clips. I will probably do some kind of mat over the concrete and put a layer of ¾" OSB over that. Carpet will go on the concrete with just a nice thick memory foam pad. Riser for the back row of course, and a stage that probably will not be anything original. Ceiling will be coffered, but to save space, I will build out faux beams and use backer boxes for lighting and atmos speakers to be recessed into the ceiling. I only pray I have the room after all mechanicals are up there. Placement may have to be fudged to get it all to fit.

I did a little consulting on a theater a while back, and his drywallers did what seems to be something common and skimped a bit on the Green Glue. The result is he had 2 full 5 gallon buckets left and one half bucket. He gave them to me, and while at the time I had no idea what to do with them, now I am looking at some savings!! Cha-Ching!! I ended up adding 2 more 5 gallon buckets to this, and I hope I have enough. I used over a bucket and a half on drywalling the floor in between the trusses and in building HVAC vents and backer boxes.

HVAC

The plan is twofold on the HVAC – a mini-split for cooling the room and a way to circulate air from the rest of the house to keep it fresh.

The mini-split is to simplify air handling in the room, as well as have an avenue for air conditioning in the harsh Montana winters. You can't turn on a regular AC system when it is -20*F outside, so we needed a better solution. If you don't think so, you have never been in a soundproof (and mostly air tight) room with 8 people (or 12 or more) after an hour. I don't care if it is 20 below outside, it's gonna get hot in there, and I need to cool it down.

I had picked out a unit that was capable of running down to -14*F outside. Then the HVAC contractor had a brilliant plan. Put the outside unit in the garage. That way the "outside air" will never be below about 50*F (the garages are heated), and in the winter, when I run the AC in the theater it will heat the garage and save some cost on the gas bill. In the summer it will get hot, so we added an exhaust fan directly above the unit on a thermostat. I only intend to have cars and some shelves in there, so who cares if it gets too warm in the summer. Plus it will only get hot in there when I am in the theater room and need to get it cooled down. The minisplit is roughed in with power, the copper lines, and a drain for condensation.

But AC alone won't keep it fresh in there. Someone is gonna fart. In my last theater I set up an air circulation system that helped, but even at over 200 CFM, it couldn't keep up with even 3 people in there with the door closed. Granted it was only about 40% of the size of the new theater room, but I know this is a problem and I needed to address it.

So that is where the HRV system comes in. I was originally doing the HRV for just the theater room, but decided to go with a bigger HRV for the whole house, and then set up a way to exchange air from the theater to the rest of the house. Doing this with soundproofing is a bit of a challenge.

Electrical

I am finishing the entire basement myself, so I had the electrician run a 100a sub panel downstairs. The house will only have 200a service, but it's a pretty efficient house, so it should be more than enough. I had him move the box into the equipment room instead of the mechanical room, so I can pull a few 15A 220V runs for the amps and a few 20A 110V runs for the rest of the equipment very easily. This ended up being 5 20a 110v and 3 20a 220v for the rack, and another 6 20a breakers for the rest of the basement electrical and lighting.

Not much else to say here since I have all that power right there and can use it as I need.

Lighting

I was leaning toward Caseta for lighting control, but I hate the switches. I am already doing a ton of automation in the rest of the house, but not going nuts with lighting. My number 1 concern is being able to dim it down to 1-2%. I like a tiny bit of ambient light in the room, and I have yet to find an LED that can do what I want, so it will be most likely be primarily incandescent lights. I settled on 4" cans for downlighting in the faux beams of the coffered ceiling, and warm white LED strips in the coffers behind some crown molding. I will prewire for RGBW for future upgrades, but the cost of ~400 feet of RGBW with a controller to make it all work was just too much for now, so I settled. I've done RGB before and I found it was a cool gimmick but I never used it outside of showing off once in a while.

Seating

Last summer I took a road trip to California under the guise of visiting the girlfriends parents. The real reason to go was to stop off at the showroom for 4Seating. We spent about 5 hours there trying out every model. We settled on the Palliser Media in the 2500 leather. I was planning to buy a row of 3 for my old theater, and thankfully I failed to get it done earlier this year. Now I want to go 2 rows of 4. With the 2500 leather, these are around $1500 per seat…….. Ugh. That's gonna eat into the budget, so I will re-evaluate as I get closer to completion. ROAD TRIP! I have since looked at others but am still undecided. Chances are row 2 will not be as high of grade as the front row.

Update: Now looking at Fusion seating due to the low cost and good reviews. The only place to sit in them is in New Jersey (not happening) or find someone who owns them (unlikely anywhere near where I live) so this is a tough one for me. I hate the idea of spending thousands of dollars and not being comfortable. Thinking I will order one row of 4 and if I don't like them, put them in the back row, lol.

The Rest

Acoustic treatment, hush box, air exchange design, and a thousand other details are still undecided, although I am slowly putting a picture together in my head. I was leaning toward getting a professional acoustic design and have already been in touch with Shawn at QuestAI (Erskine Group referred me to them for something this small). The cost is reasonable and considering the total investment, it is a worthy investment. Time and money have more or less dictated that this is not going to become a reality though, so while I am still considering it, at this point I am just going to plan to do all the acoustic design myself.

On to the Pictures!

I don't have much at this time, but I will continue to post stuff as it comes up.

Here is the basement floor plan. Pretty much all focused around the theater and rec room, with one spare bedroom and a bathroom thrown in for the hell of it.


This is from a few weeks before I started this thread. The red outlines the theater room. Doesn't look to big from up here.


A lot of trusses! Can you see the theater hiding underneath it all?


The house was completed on the 3rd week of December and we moved in on the 22nd. I spent a couple weeks building the shop and then started working on the theater space.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg theater1.jpg (247.5 KB, 3784 views)
File Type: jpg theater2.jpg (271.3 KB, 3761 views)
File Type: jpg Basement Floorplan.jpg (106.9 KB, 3638 views)

Last edited by dkersten; 05-21-2018 at 05:28 PM.
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post #2 of 416 Old 09-01-2017, 05:09 PM - Thread Starter
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So far here is the list of equipment: (updated 12/10/18)
At some point I will start adding pics here as well.

Electronics:
Receiver: Emotiva XMC-1 Marantz 7703 (while waiting to upgrade XMC-1 to 4k and Atmos)
Front Amp: Emotiva XPA-3 (gen 1)
Surround Amp: Emotiva XPA-5 (gen 1)
Atmos Amp: Emotiva XPA-5 (gen 1)
Sub Amps: 3x inuke 6000DSP

Speakers:
Front Speakers: 3x DIYSG Titan-615LX
Surrounds: 4x DIYSG Volt-10LX
Atmos: 4x DIYSG Volt-10LX
Subs: 6x UM18-22 in 11cuft ported enclosures

Display:
Projector: Epson 5040UB JVC RS2000
Anamorphic Lens: Panamorph Paladin DCR
Screen: Severtson 2.35:1 150" wide AT

Power:
4x 20A 120v, 3x 20A 240v at rack
2x 20A 120v behind screen for future use.
1500VA UPS for projector (Tripplite)

Other stuff:

WHA:
Russound MCA-88 (8 zone, 60w x 12)
6x MDK-C6 controllers
2x SLK-1 controllers
Russound Smart Tuner
Echo Dot for streaming
Elan 40w x 12 auxillary amp
10 pairs 6.5" ceiling speakers
2 pairs outdoor speakers

Network:
Ubiquiti USG gateway
3x Ubiquiti Unifi AP Pro
Ubiquiti US-24-250w 24 port POE switch
Netgear 16 port PoE switch
Netgear 8 port 10gbe switch
7x Hikvision outdoor POE cameras w/blue iris server
cat5e and cat6A wiring to all TV's, access points, appliances, etc.

Media:
Rack server running Plex (i7 8700 cpu, 16gb RAM, 32tb backup storage, 32tb main storage, 800+ blu rays ripped)
16tb WD NAS (full)
6tb WD NAS
Fire TV 4k boxes (x6 for regular TV's)
nVidia Shield for theater room
HDHomeRun with antenna in attic for local channels

Security:
ELK M1 Gold
all windows and doors hard wired
motion sensors
ethernet interface
wireless interface w/remotes

Racks:
1 42u 4 post
1 25u 4 post
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Last edited by dkersten; 12-28-2018 at 12:40 PM.
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post #3 of 416 Old 09-01-2017, 05:27 PM
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After reading post 1, the Name EPIC came to mind.
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post #4 of 416 Old 09-01-2017, 06:34 PM
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This looks like it is going to be a very nice build! I would love to start with a blank slate. Looking forward to following along.
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post #5 of 416 Old 09-01-2017, 06:45 PM
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Clearly you don't suck at naming things!
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post #6 of 416 Old 09-01-2017, 07:09 PM
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200cfm couldn't keep up with three people?! What are you? elephants??
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post #7 of 416 Old 09-01-2017, 08:32 PM
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200cfm couldn't keep up with three people?! What are you? elephants??
LOL! I just loved the fart reference he originally threw in there
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post #8 of 416 Old 09-02-2017, 10:02 AM - Thread Starter
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As promised, more pics, this time of the actual room!

The landing. This room is the rec room and theater entrance. Just enough room for my pool table, arcade cabinet, dart board, and maybe a couple other toys I will use twice a year.


The inside of the theater room from where the screen wall will be.


The inside of the theater room from the back corner... Kinda looks the same as the other view. For now.


And an odd shot of the equipment room. All low voltage stuff throughout the house will end here, as well as all the theater wiring. I intend to have 2 full racks before it is all done, but they probably won't be completely full. One just isn't going to do it though, I am pretty sure of that. The amps alone will take up almost 20u if I stacked them without any space in between, and I don't think the Emotiva XPA's would like that much. The inukes can handle it fine since they blow out the front. Anyway, the idea is one rack will be dedicated to the theater, one for network, WHA, and whatever else comes up..
Attached Images
File Type: jpg theater5.jpg (448.7 KB, 3552 views)
File Type: jpg theater4.jpg (497.8 KB, 3637 views)
File Type: jpg theater3.jpg (340.5 KB, 3592 views)
File Type: jpg theater6.jpg (599.3 KB, 3593 views)
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post #9 of 416 Old 09-02-2017, 10:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Clearly you don't suck at naming things!
I've written two novels around 160k words each that contain dozens of characters, and I struggled to name every single character. The main female character got her name from the fast food wrapper sitting on my desk when it came time to name her. The rest mostly came from randomly opening a phone book and pointing with my eyes closed. Every new character was a painful process. And the irony is, I spent weeks randomly picking names until I came across one I thought sounded perfectly masculine for the main character (Jack Taggart), only to find a year after publishing that some other author has a series with that same main character name. Who'd a thunk?

I built an arcade cabinet (mame based) a couple years ago, and after several sleepless nights, I settled on the mundane "Dave's Time Machine". It was the best I could come up with. I suppose I was more original than "DaveCade"

My last name isn't well suited for naming either.. Kersten. The Kersten Theater. Meh.. Kersten's Sanctum. Yawn. Or how about my initials, which a lot of people use to refer to me - "DAK". DAK's Mancave. Uh, no. DAK's Hall of Bass. Eh... uh uh.

The subdivision has a great name - Josephine Crossing. But using that seems kinda weak to me to put in the name. The street is much better - Island View Drive... The Island View Theater. That might stick... The irony here is that this is Billings Montana, and while I am a block away from the Yellowstone River and a tiny island right across the water, Billings isn't exactly known for our water views. My view is of a Catholic Cemetery, or other houses.. No water in sight. I suppose I could play off the cemetery, and do something like "Zombie Theater", but I really don't like horror movies, and while I am a Walking Dead fan, I am more of a "non zombie post apocalyptic fan" (and author, no ZomPoc here)... Likewise, "Undead Cinema" and "Hall of the Dead" are too horror reminiscent. Some other derivative, like "Peaceful Rest Sanctum" ... Ugh, that sucks, nevermind.

My head hurts, time to go work on measuring out drywall. I didn't think ahead far enough and should have had a drywall drop before the floor went up (I realized this the day after the floor went on) and could have had it dropped right into the basement with a crane. Now I have to figure out how to get 4.5x12' sheets down a stairway that has a 90* bend in it 4 feet down, and ends less than 6 feet from the wall. If I act now, I can knock out a couple studs and have a straight shot to the bottom of the stairs. I just need to find some laborers willing to haul all that drywall down... My builder looked at me like I was crazy when I asked if his guys could do it. Basic Laborers aren't easy to find in Billings..
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post #10 of 416 Old 09-02-2017, 10:39 AM
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When you do the clips and channel on the walls be sure to notice you have 24OC framing not 16. Your clip spacing will look a little different than most published pictures. I really love those open web ceiling joists,
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post #11 of 416 Old 09-02-2017, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkersten View Post
I didn't think ahead far enough and should have had a drywall drop before the floor went up (I realized this the day after the floor went on) and could have had it dropped right into the basement with a crane.
Is there no chance to pass it through that window? Cannot tell if the angle is too shallow. It worked for me. In your case the pieces would have to be oriented with the long side vertical. Looks like the window is just wide enough for 4'.



The delivery guys were prepared to hand carry the materials though the house, so just wondering if your suppliers guys wouldn't provide the labor?

Deadwood II Theater (Previous Deadwood Theater HTOM)
Anthem AVM 60 7.4.4; Classé SSP-800 PLIIx 7.4; MiniDSP OpenDRC-AN
Oppo UDP-203; Oppo BDP-93; Win7 media PC w/Roon+Kodi; Roku Ultra; DirecTV Genie
Adam Audio S3V/S3H LCR, KEF Ci200QS 4 srrnd, Tannoy Di6 DC 4 hts, Hsu ULS-15 4 subs
JVC RS520; Stewart Cima Neve screen 125" diag 2.35:1, MLP at 115"
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post #12 of 416 Old 09-02-2017, 12:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Is there no chance to pass it through that window? Cannot tell if the angle is too shallow. It worked for me. In your case the pieces would have to be oriented with the long side vertical. Looks like the window is just wide enough for 4'.


The delivery guys were prepared to hand carry the materials though the house, so just wondering if your suppliers guys wouldn't provide the labor?
Getting it into the house is easy, getting it down the stairs is the trick. The basement windows are 5 feet below grade, no way to feed anything down there, the wells are not big enough. Plus 4.5'x12' sheets would be a tight fit through a 4' window..

Right now if I take out one small 2x4 brace, we can straight shot from the garage to the bottom of the stairs if we handed off sheets through the framework. The trick is finding a company that will deliver and haul it by hand down into the basement. The regular suppliers my contractor uses won't do it. If all I can do is get it delivered to the site, I can maybe round up some young backs to haul it down stairs. My window to calculate how much I need, arrange delivery and getting it downstairs is getting tight, and I am travelling all next week for work
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When you do the clips and channel on the walls be sure to notice you have 24OC framing not 16. Your clip spacing will look a little different than most published pictures. I really love those open web ceiling joists,
Good call Jeff, thanks!! The ceiling is 16" on center, so it will be different from the walls too, so I will have to make sure I am paying attention.. Plus I am doing 4x8 sheets of OSB for the first layer, but the drywall will all be 4.5x12, so I need to make sure the spacing works for that too. Maybe I should do 4x8 drywall on the ceiling and only use the 4.5x12 on the walls..?
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I'm not concerned about the drywall you can always make that work, but you really have to twist my arm to do OSB on the first layer. I can attach speakers, columns, soffits, woodwork, sconces and just about anything to two layers of DW. I usually only use one sheet of 19/32 plywood where the projector is going to be mounted.

OSB is just so much slower and I always get splinters.

if I was doing this, I usually mount the drywall perpendicular to the channels so on the walls you sould see if you can find 9 or 10 ft sheets, I can get them here. Hanging vertically results in only tapered joints. One the second layer just start off with a 1/2 sheet rather than a full to get all the seams staggered.

12s are a good idea for the ceiling you can really stagger the butt joints from side to side.
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post #15 of 416 Old 09-02-2017, 02:21 PM
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Can you pull a section of floor, to slide the drywall down?
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post #16 of 416 Old 09-02-2017, 02:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I'm not concerned about the drywall you can always make that work, but you really have to twist my arm to do OSB on the first layer. I can attach speakers, columns, soffits, woodwork, sconces and just about anything to two layers of DW. ..
What kind of anchors do you use when attaching to the ceiling? Or do you shoot for hitting the hat channel?

BTW, the one long wall in the middle of the house is on 16" centers the rest are 24", lol. Thanks again for pointing that out, I might have screwed up my order when ordering clips..

I can understand the pain in the butt of using OSB on the ceiling as the first layer, but I can't help but think that when I lay out the faux beams for the tray ceiling that it will go way easier if I take the time to start with something I can just sink a screw into and not worry about anchors or hitting hat channel or anything. Perhaps I am overthinking it...

Do you usually attach the projector mount to the shell, or attach it to the trusses/joists and run it down through the shell and caulk? I suppose since I intend to do a hush box I can just set the projector inside on a shelf, and have the box hinge open at the back... I just worry about the ceiling vibrating with the heavy bass and making the picture blurry.
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post #17 of 416 Old 09-02-2017, 02:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Can you pull a section of floor, to slide the drywall down?
At this point, no, the house structure is more or less done with the roof going on today, so it wouldn't make it any easier. Plus the floor is a system called Advantec, it uses a glue that is something like Gorilla glue, along with 8p ring shank nails. It has a limited lifetime warranty with 10 year guarantee against squeaks.. There is no pulling up this floor once it is down (or at least there better not be a way, lol).

If I can find someone to haul it down in the next week, I should be fine. Unless the electrician or plumber goes and fills the path with wire or pipe, lol.
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post #18 of 416 Old 09-02-2017, 03:03 PM
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depends on what I'm fastening, I pre position a channel where the outer edge of a soffit needs the top be mounted and we already talked about the projector.

As for the projector if you use the attach it to the joist method you need to make sure there is no foot trafic overhead, that is worse than sub shake.

If you are building a hush box make it heavy, attach to the ceiling and keep your finger crossed that you aren't going to shake it. A double layer ceiling with GG is already damped against vibration but anything is possible if you are into your bass.

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Thanks again Jeff, all helpful advice. The floor is pretty solid but there are still 17' spans and there will always be a little bounce. The projector will be below the pantry more or less, but the bounce will travel through the trusses nevertheless. I think I will rely on the shell to be stable enough to not vibrate with heavy scenes.
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About the HRV I'd skip one and exchange the air with the main house unless there is a significant percentage of time where the HT room is the only one in use. What setup did you have that was running 200cfm yet was insufficient? I was looking at a 40cfm ERV for my 300sf basement.
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About the HRV I'd skip one and exchange the air with the main house unless there is a significant percentage of time where the HT room is the only one in use. What setup did you have that was running 200cfm yet was insufficient? I was looking at a 40cfm ERV for my 300sf basement.
The setup in my old theater swapped air from the rest of the house, but was a very basic setup with a circulation fan and some basic duct work. The biggest problem with it was the placement of the vents. I had it pulling air from the front of the theater room, which would come in from under the door. There were two big flaws - the first was that the path from the door to the vents passed the main seating. The second was that it was loud, so I had it on a fan controller that was usually dialed down until it was just above the noise floor. At that speed it probably wasn't pulling more than around 30-40 cfm, and since the room was not really sealed up and the issue of the path of the air, it didn't do much for keeping it cool in there. It was never really stuffy though, unless I had 5 people watching with the door closed. That room was tiny though... 14'x13' with 7' ceilings. Didn't take much to make it stuffy and hot. The only electronics in there was the projector, but that Sony 40es was a mini furnace...

I ended up placing an upright fan in the far corner and having it oscillate, which really made a huge difference in the circulation in the room.

My goal here is to keep it fresh and keep it at a normal temp. All while keeping it quiet.

Thanks for the advice on the ERV/HRV setup. I am leaning the direction of a DIY circulation system to keep the air fresh.
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post #22 of 416 Old 09-02-2017, 10:01 PM - Thread Starter
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I calculated out 62 sheets of 5/8" 4x10 drywall for the theater room (along with 15 sheets of 5/8" 4x8 OSB if I decide to go that way, or about 14 more sheets of drywall if I don't), 70 sheets of 1/2" 4x10 drywall for the rest of the basement, and 15 4x8 sheets of 3/4" T&G OSB for the theater floor. That's a lot of material to haul in, lol. I hope I can find someone to haul it in for me... Stupid weekends and holidays are messing with my planning...
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post #23 of 416 Old 09-03-2017, 06:43 AM
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When we built our house I planned on finishing our basement myself. We also have the same issue of a 90 deg turn on the stairs - it SUCKS!!! We also wanted the drywall in the basement for the future however our drywall supplier actually delivered it to the basement. They had four guys that man-handled it down stairs while it was still a straight shot through the framing. Perhaps you can find a different drywall supplier that will deliver it to the basement. And don't forget to add a few extra sheets for screw-ups, mind changes & damaged pieces.

Bring down anything else you can think of while you can. I did not think to have the OSB delivered with the drywall and had to carry it downstairs and ended up beating up the walls leading down stairs. Longer 2 x 4's and other lumber I brought in through a basement egress window. That wasn't too bad but would have been much easier if it was there from the beginning. I started the theater first so the rest of the basement is still unfinished. Otherwise I am sure I would have dinged up some walls getting that lumber in as well. I also HIGHLY recommend studs that are finger jointed from smaller pieces of wood. These are about the same price as premium studs and are 10 times straighter. The big box home centers don't carry them (might be able to order from Menards) but the local lumber yards do. You can't use them for horizontal places though.

I would also recommend putting up OSB for the first layer. I did that on mine. As you pointed out, there are no worries about not hitting something solid when attaching stuff to the walls.

I am by no means an HVAC expert but my vote would be to skip the HRV unit and just come up with a plan to exchange air with the rest of the basement. I found an inline fan from a garden store (hyper fan) that can move a bunch of air, is quite, includes a speed controller & is very energy efficient. My air supply outlets are at the front top of the theater and the exhaust outlets are at in the riser floor at the rear of the theater. Check out monstergardens.com for fan options.


Good luck on your build.
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post #24 of 416 Old 09-03-2017, 11:11 AM
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I used OSB as the first layer when I built my basement wood shop (and am using OSB for my theater as well) and didn't notice it to be any more difficult than 2 layers of drywall. Of course in a shop it makes perfect sense to use OSB because lots of things will get attached to the walls and ceiling. I have a DeWalt 20v oscillating saw for making any small cuts/trimming and I used a jigsaw for all the electrical cut-outs. BIG is right about the splinters but every wood shop should have some tweezers, needle, and a magnifying glass for such times! OSB does take a little more effort but you get some of that back when adding your second layer of drywall because you don't have to worry about hitting any studs (or in the case of our theaters - hat channel). You can also install the drywall in the same orientation as the OSB if that is more convenient - just be sure to offset the seams.
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post #25 of 416 Old 09-08-2017, 02:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Not much new this week, I have drywall being delivered today. It was rather spendy.. about $15 per sheet hand delivered to the basement for 4x10 sheets. I decided mudding and taping would go WAY faster with doing vertical seams rather than having horizontal regular seams and vertical butt seams, so it made sense to go with the 4x10's that I can cut 12" off and just line them up. This is opposed to 4.5x12, which is rare enough around here to be even more expensive. I thought at first they were full boating me on price since I didn't buy through a contractor, but I called around and the price is legit.

The electrical, HVAC, and plumbing in the house are pretty much done, and the amount of mechanical in the trussed ceiling is very minor, I am happy about this. Lots of room for backer boxes for lighting and speakers up there.


The mini-split is plumbed in and ready to go as well.


The mini-split system required a drain for condensation, so we were able to tap into one of the main drains in the wall. To do this and meet code, they used a laundry drain setup so we can access it to clean it out or deal with any issues down the road. Works for me. (you can also see the 100A box panel going in, which will almost be exclusively for the theater)


Tomorrow I start running speaker, coax, and network cables to the rest of the house. Not part of the theater exactly, but I'm still excited to be working on my own stuff finally. Gonna wire this house up for every contingency I can think of.
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post #26 of 416 Old 09-08-2017, 06:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Drywall is in the basement... Took 6 guys 2 hours to get it all loaded down there and stacked.

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post #27 of 416 Old 09-09-2017, 08:19 PM
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Silly question and a few days late, but why not simply cut a 1" wide slot 12' long next to a truss and then drop the drywall sheets through to a helper in the basement ? Then screw a 2x4 to the truss and replace the removed slot of Advantec plywood. Is it a no-no to sister a 2x4 to an open web truss ? Sounds like it would have saved you $4 per sheet considering HD price for 4x10 5/8 is $11. Of course you would have had to deliver it yourself.

Also, I thought the building codes required windows in all habitable rooms with a glazed area at least equal to 8% of the floor area. I thought only closets, bathrooms and kitchens were exempt from that rule. But in your drawing there is no window in the rec room or theatre room.

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post #28 of 416 Old 09-09-2017, 09:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Silly question and a few days late, but why not simply cut a 1" wide slot 12' long next to a truss and then drop the drywall sheets through to a helper in the basement ? Then screw a 2x4 to the truss and replace the removed slot of Advantec plywood. Is it a no-no to sister a 2x4 to an open web truss ? Sounds like it would have saved you $4 per sheet considering HD price for 4x10 5/8 is $11. Of course you would have had to deliver it yourself.

Also, I thought the building codes required windows in all habitable rooms with a glazed area at least equal to 8% of the floor area. I thought only closets, bathrooms and kitchens were exempt from that rule. But in your drawing there is no window in the rec room or theatre room.
The floor system has the warranty and I imagine cutting it up and patching it like that would have caused issues with it. The delivery was really not that horrible, I am just glad I didn't have to move the sheets down myself.

Our HD does not carry the 10' sheets, only 8' and 12', and 12' sheets in 5/8 are nearly $20. Even if they could price match to other stores without charging the extra shipping (doubt it, shipping heavy stuff in is never cheap), there is no way they could have made my time frame. And I have never been able to get Home Depot to deliver materials for free, and if I paid to have them delivered, there is no way they would haul them downstairs like the construction suppliers will. I was able to get contractor pricing quotes from other suppliers who had the 4x10's in stock and the price was in line with the place I ended up using. 4x10 is not common here so the price is a lot higher.

The rec room does have an egress window, as does the bedroom on the opposite end of that side of the basement. One of the delivery guys claimed to be able to get 4x8 sheets through those window frames, but his buddies all laughed at him. There is no window in the theater room, and here my understanding is the building code only requires it in bedrooms. I wouldn't have been able to do it anyway, unless I wanted a window well right in the middle of the patio and right in the path from the shop door to the kitchen door. The original plan was not to have a window in the rec room at all, but we had to make a last minute adjustment to the entire bottom half of the basement so the drawing I was given to approve wasn't even complete, just the basic layout.

Building code in Montana is far more lax than many places. Definitely not like it is in California, lol. My last house had 2 bedrooms downstairs with just tiny buck frame windows, no full egress, and one of the bedrooms didn't even have a closet, yet they were still allowed to be called bedrooms. Code here is a bit more lax than other places I guess.
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post #29 of 416 Old 09-09-2017, 10:53 PM
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Code here is a bit more lax than other places I guess.
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post #30 of 416 Old 09-10-2017, 01:25 AM
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The floor system has the warranty and I imagine cutting it up and patching it like that would have caused issues with it.
They must make allowances for plumbers and other mechanics to make holes in the floor. Still, not taking chances with the warranty and the delivery issues would be worth more than the few hundred you would save. I wondered where your were located -- your profile doesn't say -- and I imagine Montana limits your choices more than So Cal does. I thought the 8% rule was part of the IBC, an it has thrown a wrench in my decision whether or not to build a basement when I build a house in the mountains next year. It is tough to place that much window area in a mostly buried basement.

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