The MoorNam Uniplex - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 20 Old 09-18-2017, 04:11 PM - Thread Starter
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The MoorNam Uniplex

Hey, you guys. Long time lurker, here. Many, many thanks for literally years of great indirect advice. My first home theater was not great, but it was certainly stronger than it would have been had I not had the AVS Forums as a resource.

But now it’s time for HT 2.0. I’m starting with an unfinished room in the basement. I've attached pre-build photos and a very basic theater floor plan to start.

Unfinished, the room is 13’3” x 30’. Concrete floor, cinderblock walls, wood floor overhead. I need some of this unfinished space to be an office/potential bedroom, so the finished theater will be (I think) 12’5” x 20’. Finished ceiling should come to 8’. Ducts run on three sides of the ceiling (all except the screen wall).

I’m not going to be buying everything at once, equipment-wise, but the construction is about a month away and that stuff I can’t go slowly on, so I want to make sure I get the build right and have it future-proofed as much as possible.

I have a breaker box to move, as it would be behind the screen if I don't and the idea of getting an electrician back there once I have a screen in place seems like a bad idea. I don’t mind squeezing back behind the screen to fiddle with the speakers, but I don’t want to ask anyone else to do that.

Also, I gotta get the air squared away. Had a new HVAC installed not long ago and it’s loud as hell! Plus I need to make sure my room has a return. In my old house, there was no return and it was pretty miserable unless you enjoyed being very cold/extremely hot/not breathing. But I need to get a handle on how to keep it quiet.

SCREEN: The screen will be fixed and 2’ off of the short concrete wall. I’m looking at doing a 125” 2.4:1 AT screen. So LCRs and two subs behind the screen.

SEATING: The seating will live at 9’ and 12’, I think - but I’ll be testing out sizes once we get things walled in and before I buy a screen.

AUDIO: Right now I have an Onkyo HT-S780 7.1 home theater system that I’ve had for 12 years - nothing fancy but it gets the job done. A receiver upgrade is a definite - any recommends would be appreciated. Eventual speaker upgrades are a little up in the air. One friend recommends three JBL 3722Ns across the front with a 3635 sub, but I feel like that’s WAY too big for the space. I don’t think I can even fit all of those across the front. But please feel free to tell me I’m wrong, especially if you’re rocking those in a similar space. I was thinking about upgrading to the Klipsch 7.1 RP-280 package with 2 R-115SW subs. I’ve heard that set up before and I liked it.

RACK: The rack will sit on the back wall, screen right. It will be hidden behind an absorption panel door. The back of the equipment will be accessible from my office. I'll need to run conduit up into the ceiling for the projector.

CABLES: One of the most pressing things is running cables. My plan is to run 3’ conduit in the screen right wall (it will have to travel past the breaker box to do this, so how bad is that?) that will carry 2 RCAs for the subs and in-wall 12AWG wire for the other speakers. I'll also be running conduit from the rack into the ceiling for the projector carrying Cat6 cable and 2 HDMIs.

PROJECTOR: If I can find a solid used 1080p projector to start ($200 - $400), that’d be great. Otherwise I’m watching the Sonys, 1080p and 4k. I like those the most from what I’ve seen - contrast-wise and how quiet they are. But I’m still pretty young in my projector searching. I’d also like to use an anamorphic lens but I’ll have to see where the budget is once I get everything built.

Questions:

Should I bother drywalling the wall behind the screen? I'll be putting up absorption back there anyway.

How many circuits should I have this room on - if I went with the Klipsch package mentioned above, for instance?

The plan right now is to run the speaker cable for the speakers behind the screen in 3’ conduit past (most likely below) the breaker box? Good idea or worst idea?

Any and all questions, critiques and advice will be very much appreciated as I go along. Thank you!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Screen wall.JPG (3.52 MB, 47 views)
File Type: jpg Back wall.JPG (3.36 MB, 36 views)
File Type: jpg Floorplan.jpg (927.3 KB, 43 views)
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post #2 of 20 Old 09-18-2017, 07:31 PM - Thread Starter
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post #3 of 20 Old 09-19-2017, 06:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craigmohead View Post
Questions:

Should I bother drywalling the wall behind the screen? I'll be putting up absorption back there anyway.

How many circuits should I have this room on - if I went with the Klipsch package mentioned above, for instance?

The plan right now is to run the speaker cable for the speakers behind the screen in 3’ conduit past (most likely below) the breaker box? Good idea or worst idea?

Any and all questions, critiques and advice will be very much appreciated as I go along. Thank you!
I'll help the best I can.

I would personally drywall behind the screen. Are you doing any type of soundproofing?

I have 4 circuits for my room. Circuit 1 is for equipment. Circuit 2 is for equipment and the outlet for the projector. Circuit 3 is for the outlets in the room. That will handle the chairs, the wall outlets and the sub-woofer. The chairs won't be used much and I'll never be vacuuming and watching a movie at the same time, so the wall outlets are mostly just for code. Circuit 4 is for the lighting. The three outlet circuits are 20 amp and the lighting is 15 amp.

I kept all of my low voltage as far away from any high voltage as possible. Anywhere I had to cross, I did so at a 90 degree angle. How close will you have to get to the box?
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post #4 of 20 Old 09-19-2017, 08:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyderturbo007 View Post
I'll help the best I can.

I would personally drywall behind the screen. Are you doing any type of soundproofing?
Yes - the plan is to have the back wall be staggered studs with extra insulation. The ceiling will be isolated and heavily insulated. The door will be sealed, solid core, 1 3/4" thick. And then absorption and diffusion and bass traps once all of that is done.

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Originally Posted by Spyderturbo007 View Post
The chairs won't be used much and I'll never be vacuuming and watching a movie at the same time, so the wall outlets are mostly just for code.
Yeah, same here.

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Originally Posted by Spyderturbo007 View Post
I kept all of my low voltage as far away from any high voltage as possible. Anywhere I had to cross, I did so at a 90 degree angle. How close will you have to get to the box?
I think I can comfortably keep low voltage stuff at least 1.5' away from that box. It would be running under it to do that, but I think that would be the best way.
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post #5 of 20 Old 10-07-2017, 06:22 AM - Thread Starter
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It looks like I'm about a week away from my contractor framing the theater room, so I need to get some in-wall materials pronto. Here's what I'm about to get for running cables and the like. I'm running everything through the ceiling as that will require the least drilling and intersectioning with other wires.

If anyone has an opinion on any of this stuff - what's missing, what's junk, etc. - I would love to hear it:

I'm going to run everything through this:
2" Carlon resi-guard conduit (http://a.co/gRtB1HC)
Heavy Duty Rigid Pipe Strap (http://a.co/2gbVW6V)

To the projector:
2 BlueRigger in-wall CL3-rated high speed HDMIs (http://a.co/0gyUQgx)
2 Cat 7 Shielded Lan Network Cable (http://a.co/fCSawzx)
2 mini-jack cables for trigger lines (http://a.co/2Hn7e6b)

To speakers:
2 Mediabridge ULTRA Series Subwoofer Cables (http://a.co/gNDpHYS)
Mediabridge 12AWG 2-Conductor Speaker Wire (http://a.co/0ceeJgV)
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post #6 of 20 Old 10-07-2017, 07:55 AM
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When you pull the cables in the 2" conduit, pull in a very strong piece of nylon twine as well. In the future if you need to pull in another cable then the pull rope is already there. And if you do pull in another cable, pull that cable and another piece of twine.

The flexible conduit I use for work is "sticky" for lack of a better term. It is very hard to pull wires through. It is Carlon brand but it is a dark gray color so I am not 100% sure it is the same as you picked out but I am guessing it probably is. Flex conduit does not hold its form when pulling wires, so a nice 90 deg sweep can turn into a tight corner. If your conduit run is going to have a lot of twist and turns you may have problems pulling the cables through it. I would personally suggest using PVC electrical conduit. Easy to work with and likely much cheaper than the flex conduit.
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post #7 of 20 Old 10-08-2017, 08:09 AM
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Don't assume you will always be using active subs and plan accordingly. I've found that when pulling in multiple cables in a conduit, pull them in as a bundle, all at once. If you need to add a cable pull everything out and pull in the new bundle. Otherwise your pull string may be wrapped around various cables along the path and it will be difficult.
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post #8 of 20 Old 10-08-2017, 09:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I would personally suggest using PVC electrical conduit. Easy to work with and likely much cheaper than the flex conduit.
Oh wow, yeah. Do you mean Schedule 40 PVC conduit? If so, yeah, that would be a lot cheaper for sure.
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post #9 of 20 Old 10-08-2017, 09:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Don't assume you will always be using active subs and plan accordingly.
Very good point, Jeff. Thank you!
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post #10 of 20 Old 10-08-2017, 12:10 PM
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Looks like single row home theaters are gaining some traction!

Why move the electrical panel when you could simply frame it out and put in a gasketted exterior door? The gas meter could also get that treatment.

BigmouthinDC's AT screen wall with his ladder frames, and the screen hung via french cleats, could make for easy and full access up front, just by
moving a few speakers.

I do like a friend's use of speaker grill fabric frames, for his side walls. He used larger panels, and beveled edges, to introduce some detailing and the grill
cloth adds some nice texture and it all hides acoustical treatments. His lower panels are removal, and those hide cables and when paired with an AT space,
offer some future proofing potential, with your av rack location.

The flip side of a nice wide screen is that maybe you just might prefer 16x9 content being bigger, if you watch sports and Bluray concerts.

I fit in three JTR T8's and dual Servodrive Contrabass subs in a 9'5" wide room. The condition being the AT space was built 59" deep. That JBL system would
also be complete and total overkill too.
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post #11 of 20 Old 10-08-2017, 12:32 PM
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I found it beneficial to run CAT6 network cables in most of my tubes together with speaker and signal cables.
"You newer know..." etc.
Inexpensive and probably beneficial later on ^^.
And so much easier to pull a bundle than trying to add a cable later.
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post #12 of 20 Old 10-09-2017, 05:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Looks like single row home theaters are gaining some traction!
On that point - it seems like I have enough room for a second row and a riser. Is there anything else in that plan that rule that out down the road?

Quote:
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Why move the electrical panel when you could simply frame it out and put in a gasketted exterior door? The gas meter could also get that treatment.
Yeah, you're right. That panel is staying put. And I plan to build BigMouthinDC's screen wall, for sure.

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The flip side of a nice wide screen is that maybe you just might prefer 16x9 content being bigger, if you watch sports and Bluray concerts.
This one is easy for me - I'm a movie guy first and foremost. Tommy Boy being bigger than Lawrence of Arabia would bother me. And only me, mind you. But it would definitely bother me.

Thank you!
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post #13 of 20 Old 10-09-2017, 10:24 AM
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I think of myself as a movie guy too, but these days, I think I am more of a tv series guy these days.

I also think if one is doing a single row of seating, then maybe the ultimate screen isn't 16x9 nor scope.
If your projector has presets and motorized zoom, then I really like the idea of something like a 2:1 screen.
Simple motorized top mask, and maybe two cleat hung manual end masks, along the lines of BigmouthinDC's
use of metal cleats for mounting a screen. Two sets of Home Depot cleats could be two side masking panels and
two cleat covers, when scope is employed.

You do have the room to do two rows, but with the duct work and ceiling height, that would impact on a 16x9 screen's
height, so I would think a scope screen is the right fit there.


And if you choose to stick with a single row seating configuration, you could carve off 4-5' of room depth up front, and
and do a storage closet with some Gorilla racking backing the theater wall. That would move the electrical panel and gas
meter out of your space.

Another thought would to be to suspend shelving in the closet space, but do a baffle wall up front. Then builds inwards,
for subs, down low, in the closet.

You might also want to consider not having the av rack in the room, but outside the entry door.

The good news is there's so many ways to pull of a great room in your space. The bad news is there's so many ways to
pull off a great room in your space. I guess it comes down to where you want to plant your money, and how important is the
size of the guestroom/office?
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post #14 of 20 Old 10-09-2017, 06:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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The good news is there's so many ways to pull of a great room in your space. The bad news is there's so many ways to pull off a great room in your space.
Ha! Yeah, man, that's exactly how I feel!

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You might also want to consider not having the av rack in the room, but outside the entry door.
The plan right now is to put the rack in the office closet with just the faces of the components in the theater room. Then that will eventually be behind an absorption panel. I think that'll work - should keep the noise and heat down, I hope! Plus I think, eventually, I'll want that second row for sure.

Now, about the side masking and the cleats - I don't entirely follow, but I'm intrigued. Especially because I'd love to mask for 1.85, 1.33, etc. I'll go digging. Thank you, Tedd!
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You may need to 'seal' the cinder block walls prior to framing in front of it, at least for piece of mind from moisture penetration.
Additionally, you may want to add some additional insulation against the cinder blocks prior to the framing installation for better temperature control.
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Quote:
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You may need to 'seal' the cinder block walls prior to framing in front of it, at least for piece of mind from moisture penetration.
Additionally, you may want to add some additional insulation against the cinder blocks prior to the framing installation for better temperature control.
Yes, absolutely. That was my primary concern when I started talking to my contractor about it - I'm glad to say he's on top of that one!
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Looking at all that HVAC in there, it actually does not look like you have a supply or a return into the room.

Also, with the electrical panel so easily accessible, I'd definitely layout out your power early on, as this will allow you to install the additional circuits into the room/rack space/lighting/subwoofer circuits.
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Quote:
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Looking at all that HVAC in there, it actually does not look like you have a supply or a return into the room.

You're 100% right there - there's no return in the room. The HVAC is set up on the other side of the cinderblock wall, so not a very long run. We could punch through the cinderblock and create a return that would join the main house return - that would be pretty much right next to the seating position. Is there any way to keep that quiet? I feel like I'll end up having to depend on a space under the theater door, which I don't want to do.

Quote:
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Also, with the electrical panel so easily accessible, I'd definitely layout out your power early on, as this will allow you to install the additional circuits into the room/rack space/lighting/subwoofer circuits.
Good point and a question on that - should I have my projector on a separate circuit? Right now I have it on the same circuit as my equipment (which is separate from the amps circuit).
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post #19 of 20 Old 10-11-2017, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craigmohead View Post
You're 100% right there - there's no return in the room. The HVAC is set up on the other side of the cinderblock wall, so not a very long run. We could punch through the cinderblock and create a return that would join the main house return - that would be pretty much right next to the seating position. Is there any way to keep that quiet? I feel like I'll end up having to depend on a space under the theater door, which I don't want to do.
There are ways to keep it quiet, however, I will defer to others that have more experience in the HVAC department, as I typically just replicate what's there to make it work for my needs. As far as recommendations, I'd reach out to @BIGmouthinDC , as I'm positive he's ran into this previously in his many builds. I would not rely on the 'under the door' methods for a 'RETURN', as you're gonna wanna seal that up for sound control.

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Good point and a question on that - should I have my projector on a separate circuit? Right now I have it on the same circuit as my equipment (which is separate from the amps circuit).
I would not put a dedicated circuit for the projector. IMHO, you want to power your PJ with a UPS circuit.
This is what I would installed.
2 circuits to your equipment location. (at least...) 1 for a UPS. then back feed your projector with a UPS circuit. This allows for proper cool down if there is ever a power outage.
1 circuit to your subwoofer locations. I would think you'd at least want 2 if not 4 subwoofers. That's the going rate. also, put a 12v trigger line to each of the locations as a JIC.
1 circuit for your lights and room power, incidentally, this will be to power your recliners as well.
Add more from that list.. you have access to power panel.. use that access to your advantage. Its realatively cheap now to add more circuits. Once the room is complete, you are not gonna want to go back and say "I wish I would have..."
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post #20 of 20 Old 10-13-2017, 10:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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you're gonna wanna seal that up for sound control.
Exactly. Looking into options now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sirjaymz View Post
I would think you'd at least want 2 if not 4 subwoofers.
I've planned for 2 and I think that's the most I can comfortably fit into the space...

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put a 12v trigger line to each of the locations as a JIC.
Good point. I'm doing this! Thanks!
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