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post #1 of 177 Old 09-29-2017, 05:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Precise Home Theater Build

Updated 7/28/19

Current Layout



The goodies that will go into the Theater Room...

Epson 5040UB
144" 2.4:1 AT Screen
DENON 4400
Acurus A125 Amp
DIYSG HTM-12's for L/C/R
DIYSG Volt-6's for Surrounds and Atmos
4 BIC America F12's (corner loaded)
iNuke 3000DSP
18" Dayton UM18-22 (Not sure where it is going yet)
Roku Ultra
KM8500 4k Disk Player
MRCOOL 9k Minisplit
7 Seats of some kind






Old boring post...

Hello.... I have been working on a design for a while to turn my existing 2 car garage (half of which I had already converted into a small theater room (11'x10') with a 55" LG flat screen and 5.2.2 Denon system plus a "lady lair" know as the laundry room). Since I built a large carport over the summer I have decided this winter I will close in the other half of the garage and redo all of it into a Family Fun Room (that's what I keep telling my wife), a tool room (just finished it last week (see picture)) and I will keep the laundry room as is. Attached is my layout which has a pool table, small theater room and an acoustic "wall" that can separate the two. The pool table side is 17'-0" L x 12'-6" W and the theater room is 11'-6" L x 11'-6" W and both rooms have a finished ceiling height of 7'-1". I plan just to finish the room space and then buy the components as things might change (tech/price) once the room is actually finished.

I am not going to go crazy on soundproofing as I really don't care if sound travels upstairs. The plan is to fill the 8" joists with Roxul (half has already been done) and use two 5/8" layers of drywall. The 2x4 walls will be filled with pink stuff and a single layer of 1/2" drywall. I will build acoustic panels for the walls and ceiling that will also hide the speakers (speaker area of panel will just be fabric).


I am sure I am forgetting something and will update this as needed..



-Chris
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post #2 of 177 Old 10-02-2017, 10:19 AM
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If you are going through the effort of using double drywall with green glue, you might as well use the cheap A237 clips with hat channel and substitute pink foam for the rest of the Roxul. Far more bang for the buck.
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post #3 of 177 Old 10-02-2017, 11:29 AM
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I've got another low cost suggestion. Even if you only do only one layer of drywall on the walls, use 5/8" type-X fire rated drywall. It is not much more expensive than 1/2", and the installation essentially the same. Most 1/2" drywall these days is the "ultralight" stuff. 5/8" type-X has almost twice the mass of 1/2" "ultralight".
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post #4 of 177 Old 10-06-2017, 01:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by impreza276 View Post
If you are going through the effort of using double drywall with green glue, you might as well use the cheap A237 clips with hat channel and substitute pink foam for the rest of the Roxul. Far more bang for the buck.
I am only doing that on the ceiling since my ceiling height after I use DD will be 7'-0". I really do not want to go any lower as I am already going to do a 4" dropped coffer style ceiling for the lights and atmos speakers. I am just looking to contain some of the sound and since doing DD will greatly reduce the transmission of sound so I am not too worried.. My wife already knows I like to listen to things loud.. I have a Denon/Boston Acoustic 5.1 in my tool room and a Denon/Micca 5.1 (my old 5.2.2 receiver) in the living room. My old man cave (where the new HT will be) had 5.2.2. and with minimal sound proofing it still shook the house (wife's words)...

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I've got another low cost suggestion. Even if you only do only one layer of drywall on the walls, use 5/8" type-X fire rated drywall. It is not much more expensive than 1/2", and the installation essentially the same. Most 1/2" drywall these days is the "ultralight" stuff. 5/8" type-X has almost twice the mass of 1/2" "ultralight".
2 of the walls are concrete block and the other 2 are not shared with living space.. Do you think it is still a good idea to go with 5/8" on the walls??

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post #5 of 177 Old 10-06-2017, 01:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Here are some of my latest designs. I have modified a few things.
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post #6 of 177 Old 10-06-2017, 04:16 PM
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Doesn't code specify 5/8" for ceilings???
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post #7 of 177 Old 10-06-2017, 04:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Doesn't code specify 5/8" for ceilings???
What is this "Code" you are referring too? I kid I kid... But seriously that is for new construction and only for garages that have a living space above them... Since I will be using 2 layers in a living space, I think I will be ok... Plus my entire house had 3/8" thick junk which I have been replacing room by room as I rewire, add windows and insulated all the walls in my home.


On another note..


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post #8 of 177 Old 10-06-2017, 05:16 PM
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From what I have read your results will be underwhelming without doing the decoupling. There is a method where you recess the clips and channel by attaching them to braces between the joists to keep height loss to a minimum.
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post #9 of 177 Old 10-06-2017, 05:24 PM - Thread Starter
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From what I have read your results will be underwhelming without doing the decoupling. There is a method where you recess the clips and channel by attaching them to braces between the joists to keep height loss to a minimum.
Yeah I have seen that, but it seems like a lot of work and added cost for something that really doesn't matter much to me. I know it will be an improvement over just doing DD, but how much will it really quiet things down?

I have been in HTs that went all out and honestly I can still hear it in the other rooms.. At the volume I like to listen to I do not think it will really matter... I could be wrong, but not willing to spend the money right now to find out.
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post #10 of 177 Old 10-06-2017, 05:48 PM
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A low noise floor does indeed matter....
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post #11 of 177 Old 10-06-2017, 05:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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A low noise floor does indeed matter....
To who? Nobody will be upstairs when we are in the HT..

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post #12 of 177 Old 10-06-2017, 06:02 PM
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It SHOULD matter to the people, IN the theater.

Then you can hear the whole sound track as intended, from the quietest passages, and not have the loud events
beat on your hearing. You won't need to touch the volume key during a movie, as you won't need to turn up the
volume to hear quiet passages. All that time and energy spent on the soundtrack, now can be enjoyed to it's fullest.
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post #13 of 177 Old 10-06-2017, 06:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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It SHOULD matter to the people, IN the theater.

Then you can hear the whole sound track as intended, from the quietest passages, and not have the loud events
beat on your hearing. You won't need to touch the volume key during a movie, as you won't need to turn up the
volume to hear quiet passages. All that time and energy spent on the soundtrack, now can be enjoyed to it's fullest.
So it really makes that much of a difference IN the theater? Everything I have read states the decoupling is for a difference outside of the theater.. is that not true?

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post #14 of 177 Old 10-06-2017, 06:16 PM
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That is not true but I'll leave it to the experts to explain. Do you have neighbors to worry about? There was a case where the neighbors called the cops because of noise.
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post #15 of 177 Old 10-06-2017, 06:20 PM - Thread Starter
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That is not true but I'll leave it to the experts to explain. Do you have neighbors to worry about? There was a case where the neighbors called the cops because of noise.
Most people sound proof for WAF right?.... I do not need to worry about that as she is cool AF and I am also lucky enough to not have to worry about neighbors....
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post #16 of 177 Old 10-06-2017, 06:26 PM - Thread Starter
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I now have a question.. Would Clips plus a single layer of 5/8" plus pink stuff out perform double 5/8" with Roxul? I am referring to IN theater quality not exterior..
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post #17 of 177 Old 10-06-2017, 06:43 PM
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I now have a question.. Would Clips plus a single layer of 5/8" plus pink stuff out perform double 5/8" with Roxul? I am referring to IN theater quality not exterior..
My hunch from my limited experience and reading is yes. The Roxul is the least important component. I've used it in a bathroom wall and it barely made any difference. Spend money on clips, even the cheap A237 ones that are pretty effective, and save on the Roxul. Since yours is garage theater neighbors come into the equation if you have serious sound gear.
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post #18 of 177 Old 10-06-2017, 06:53 PM - Thread Starter
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My hunch from my limited experience and reading is yes. The Roxul is the least important component. I've used it in a bathroom wall and it barely made any difference. Spend money on clips, even the cheap A237 ones that are pretty effective, and save on the Roxul. Since yours is garage theater neighbors come into the equation if you have serious sound gear.
Ok I guess I can look into it a bit more and see if it will make an impact. My garage is 8" concrete walls and 80% under ground. I have 2 6" stud walls with pink stuff where the door use to be. This is what I used as my tool room. That wall backs up to 100+ acre black dirt farm. As I said, I don't have to worry about neighbors..

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post #19 of 177 Old 10-06-2017, 06:54 PM - Thread Starter
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PS. I thought density in the walls was the most important thing? Isn't that why DD is preferred?

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post #20 of 177 Old 10-06-2017, 07:09 PM
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The short answer is it's complicated. Some mass and decoupling is better than more mass and no decoupling.
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post #21 of 177 Old 10-06-2017, 07:16 PM - Thread Starter
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The short answer is it's complicated. Some mass and decoupling is better than more mass and no decoupling.
I think I can do this and spare the 1/2". I was going to do can lighting in the pool room, but I'm thinking that would be a bad idea if I go down this route.. time to revise the lighting lol..

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post #22 of 177 Old 10-06-2017, 08:06 PM
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To who? Nobody will be upstairs when we are in the HT..

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I'm in the same boat as you. I didn't do any real soundproofing because it didn't matter much to me. When I have everything turned all the way up I can almost knock the picture frames off the wall in the rooms directly above due to the bass. Never thought that would be an issue when building everything. Not sure how much the decoupled walls and all that other stuff would help. But if I'd start again I would seriously consider the recessed clips. Without having experience with it I can't see how much of a difference it would really make anyways. Like someone said on here, you either need to commit to soundproofing or not do it at all.
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post #23 of 177 Old 10-06-2017, 08:12 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm in the same boat as you. I didn't do any real soundproofing because it didn't matter much to me. When I have everything turned all the way up I can almost knock the picture frames off the wall in the rooms directly above due to the bass. Never thought that would be an issue when building everything. Not sure how much the decoupled walls and all that other stuff would help. But if I'd start again I would seriously consider the recessed clips. Without having experience with it I can't see how much of a difference it would really make anyways. Like someone said on here, you either need to commit to soundproofing or not do it at all.
Yeah it looks like I'm heading that way.. what kind of setup do you have?


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Yeah it looks like I'm heading that way.. what kind of setup do you have?


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Here's my build thread: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-ded...estions-2.html


I've got a Denon AVR, DIYSG waveguide speakers in 5.1, VBSS sub with an iNUKE1000 and the same projector you're looking at Epson 5040UB. If I put on the Inception soundtrack and turn it to 11, it kicks some serious ass for a simple setup
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So it really makes that much of a difference IN the theater? Everything I have read states the decoupling is for a difference outside of the theater.. is that not true?

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Sound isolation is a two way street. As for making much of a difference in the theater, it certainly does, when the typical home's noise floor is around the 55 db mark. Basically it
preserves the dynamic range of a sound track.
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post #26 of 177 Old 10-07-2017, 02:54 AM
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And you also have to consider the flanking paths.
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post #27 of 177 Old 10-07-2017, 06:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Here's my build thread: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-ded...estions-2.html


I've got a Denon AVR, DIYSG waveguide speakers in 5.1, VBSS sub with an iNUKE1000 and the same projector you're looking at Epson 5040UB. If I put on the Inception soundtrack and turn it to 11, it kicks some serious ass for a simple setup
Ha I had posted on that the other day... I love the look of your theater!
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Ok here is the latest design..

I have removed the use of can lights as I might go with the A237 clips and hats with 2 layers of 5/8" (no GG). I will build a 4" tall soffit that will house the Atmos speakers and all the LED down lights. It will have a 3" crown for a LED reveal out of the 1" gap. I think this will make the ceiling actually feel taller then they actually are. I will also use vertical stripping/sound pads to aid in that.

let me know what you think.



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post #29 of 177 Old 10-08-2017, 03:56 AM
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Love the soffit in the pool room but you could eliminate the soffit in the theater by using backer boxes.

BTW, your surround speakers don't belong in the corners of the room. They should be at the end of seating row.
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post #30 of 177 Old 10-08-2017, 04:07 AM
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So what is in the closet? Could some of the lower closet be utilized for the sub woofer? That would remove the near boundary sub woofer
reflective surface, both in audio, and video terms. Not only would this eliminate early reflections audio-wise, it also would eliminate a surface
near the screen that will be lit up, by light coming off the screen.

Another way to make a smaller room feel larger, is to go very dark in finishes. Pretty hard core but the dark finishes make walls and ceiling recede.
The dark nature of the room also helps push picture quality closer to what a projector is capable of. It also helps dial down the light coming off a
screen, and that lighting up the room.
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