Subwoofer in riser? - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 16 Old 10-10-2017, 08:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Subwoofer in riser?

Had a hard time finding information on this. Is this something reasonable to try?
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post #2 of 16 Old 10-10-2017, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmilt13 View Post
Had a hard time finding information on this. Is this something reasonable to try?


Yes, very reasonable. Did those in @Aareses theater https://www.avsforum.com/forum/#/topics/2329073

Main challenge will be finding a high output sub that will fit. Luckily we developed one of those too https://store.acousticfrontiers.com/...woofer-cabinet


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post #3 of 16 Old 10-11-2017, 05:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmilt13 View Post
Had a hard time finding information on this. Is this something reasonable to try?
A few of us on here have done this. Here is my take:






The option posted above might be great, but $5,000 is a lot of money. This cost me $300 for the drivers, and under $300 for an amp that will drive these subs and two more.
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post #4 of 16 Old 10-11-2017, 06:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VTstang View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmilt13 View Post
Had a hard time finding information on this. Is this something reasonable to try?
A few of us on here have done this. Here is my take:
[IMG]https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2296196&stc=1&d=15077
23101[/IMG]






The option posted above might be great, but $5,000 is a lot of money. This cost me $300 for the drivers, and under $300 for an amp that will drive these subs and two more.
$300 bucks is closer to my speed than 5K
Any more details on your design? How did you dress up the baffle?
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post #5 of 16 Old 10-11-2017, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by jmilt13 View Post
$300 bucks is closer to my speed than 5K
Any more details on your design? How did you dress up the baffle?
the baffle will be carpeted and the second row sofa will sit on top of the drivers (could not flush mount the drivers if I ever wanted to be able to remove them in the future). The sides (vertical portions) will also be carpeted up to and around the ports. I will build little frames out of base cap that I will add acoustic fabric to that will cover the ports so that they disappear in the room. The basic sub design is based on the Marty series of subs that are routinely built and discussed in the DIY subs section of AVS. You can see more pictures of the my subs in my build thread (link below)
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post #6 of 16 Old 10-11-2017, 06:36 AM
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Successful sub-woofer installations involve careful placement planning to achieve uniform bass response in the seating areas. Before constructing your riser sub it would be a good idea to do some reading on the subject and pick your locations carefully.
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post #7 of 16 Old 10-11-2017, 06:44 AM
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Successful sub-woofer installations involve careful placement planning to achieve uniform bass response in the seating areas. Before constructing your riser sub it would be a good idea to do some reading on the subject and pick your locations carefully.
This is true, but I thought the goal of near-field subs is to basically just get them close to the seats, however possible. If these are the only subs in the room, then it could be problematic.
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post #8 of 16 Old 10-11-2017, 06:48 AM
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Hard to tell the posters intentions.
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post #9 of 16 Old 10-11-2017, 07:00 AM
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Hard to tell the posters intentions.
Agreed, I am just trying to clarify for my own understanding (and hoping I didn't screw up my build).
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post #10 of 16 Old 10-11-2017, 07:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Hard to tell the posters intentions.
Ideally I would like to do 1-2 sealed 15 or 18" behind front baffle wall, then the ported riser. Likely keep the riser sub turned off except during movies.
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post #11 of 16 Old 10-11-2017, 07:17 AM
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A good portion of sub-woofer placement science is about avoiding nulls at the listening positions. To do that you either keep your seating out of the main null locations, 25 and 50 % of a rooms length and width. or you position subs or sub pairs to add energy at the nulls.
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post #12 of 16 Old 10-11-2017, 12:21 PM
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An alternative

If you plan to have other subwoofer(s) in the room, your objective seems to achieve some tactile sensation in these seats. an alternative would be the Clark Synthesis Tactile Transducer. Not necessarily going to be less money, tho. They make several models. What they do is vibrate the riser, seats, and people when the LFE demands. They still require an amplifier. Rather than cutting 12"/15"/18" holes and mounting bass drivers, you attach these guys (quantity required based on size of riser) to the riser or seating by bolt. It's an awesome experience and doesn't add accoustical bass energy to your room. BTW, they work even when you need to turn the audible volume down for some reason. You still get that gut-wrenching experience during explosions, etc. Just have a separate gain control for these.

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post #13 of 16 Old 10-11-2017, 10:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RickyDB View Post
If you plan to have other subwoofer(s) in the room, your objective seems to achieve some tactile sensation in these seats. an alternative would be the Clark Synthesis Tactile Transducer. Not necessarily going to be less money, tho. They make several models. What they do is vibrate the riser, seats, and people when the LFE demands. They still require an amplifier. Rather than cutting 12"/15"/18" holes and mounting bass drivers, you attach these guys (quantity required based on size of riser) to the riser or seating by bolt. It's an awesome experience and doesn't add accoustical bass energy to your room. BTW, they work even when you need to turn the audible volume down for some reason. You still get that gut-wrenching experience during explosions, etc. Just have a separate gain control for these.
I actually used these on my primary seats in my 1st theater. I think the silver ones? They never really felt that dramatic to me, they definitely helped, but I would like to do something more impact-full. I agree it is nice to have them volume dependent. Going for more powerful transducers will be something I keep in mind.
I also want to bridge the gap between sealed subs for music and ported for movies.
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post #14 of 16 Old 10-12-2017, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmilt13 View Post
Ideally I would like to do 1-2 sealed 15 or 18" behind front baffle wall, then the ported riser. Likely keep the riser sub turned off except during movies.


Mixing ported and sealed generally not a good idea, due to relative phase shift differences between the two, which will cause generally unpredictable cancellations...unless you've modeled everything and have a good understanding of what the results will be.


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post #15 of 16 Old 10-15-2017, 08:15 PM
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As Nyal mentioned above, we put 2 subs in the rear riser and 2 in the front screen wall. Here are some links:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/86-ult...l#post45614417

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/86-ult...l#post45947345

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/86-ult...l#post45959065

Evolution of My Theater Build

Speakers: Procella P8 (LCR), P6V (2 Front Side), P5 (2 Rear Side, 2 Rear, 4 Ceiling). Subs: Deep Sea Sound Custom 18" Mariana (4). Amps: Crown DCi 8|300 (2), SpeakerPower SP2-12000-HT. Processors: Yamaha CX-A5100, Xilica XP-8080 (2). Video: JVC RS400, 2.37 Seymour AV 120" Enlightor 4K Screen, Kaleidescape Strato, Philips BDP7501. Control: iRule.
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post #16 of 16 Old 10-15-2017, 08:18 PM
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default answer is 4 x 18's with one in each corner

Power: Marantz sr7008, NAD C 275Bee x 2, Video: Oppo 103, Samsung 75un6300 LG oled c9 77
Speakers: Focal aria 948, Focal cc900, Klipsch synergy KSF 10.5, Magnepan LRS, Audioengine A2+
Subs: Rythmik FV25HP, Rythmik FV15HP, Velodyne HGS 12, Velodyne VA1512
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