“The Daydream” Dedicated Theater Build - Page 11 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #301 of 403 Old 11-23-2019, 05:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nexgen76 View Post
Hey, what speaker wire you using?
It’s monoprice 12/2 inwali , my whole theater is wired it it. For the exposed parts that might be seen behind the seats, removable panels, or behind the screen are wrapped in tech flex and speaker pants
.
Wide speakers





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post #302 of 403 Old 11-25-2019, 08:47 AM
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Very nice attention to detail. That's really above and beyond.
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My DIYSG HTM-12 build
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post #303 of 403 Old 11-26-2019, 02:45 PM
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This build is A-M-A-Z-I-N-G!!! I was lurking in another thread where it was a "Small" Black Theater but the space was rather large. Your space is the definition of a "Small" space but what you have done with it is truly special. The attention to detail is bananas! I love the clean and sleek look.

Question: Did you not consider height speakers? Also, did I see front wides in one of the pictures?

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AVR 1-Yamaha RX-A3050 (7.2.4), AVR 2 Pioneer VSX-815-K(Used for 4ch Amp TF+TR)
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post #304 of 403 Old 11-26-2019, 03:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by rontalley View Post
This build is A-M-A-Z-I-N-G!!! I was lurking in another thread where it was a "Small" Black Theater but the space was rather large. Your space is the definition of a "Small" space but what you have done with it is truly special. The attention to detail is bananas! I love the clean and sleek look.

Question: Did you not consider height speakers? Also, did I see front wides in one of the pictures?
Thank you for the kind words. My theater is a direct result of my ocd, sometimes I don’t mind it.

As for height speaker they are now going to be added before I finish the screen. I finally found a matching set to the rest of my speakers on eBay. So I need to buy a 1 RU sized 2 channel amp to power them.
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post #305 of 403 Old 11-26-2019, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by bluer101 View Post
Thank you for the kind words. My theater is a direct result of my ocd, sometimes I don’t mind it.

As for height speaker they are now going to be added before I finish the screen. I finally found a matching set to the rest of my speakers on eBay. So I need to buy a 1 RU sized 2 channel amp to power them.
Oooh... this is exciting news!

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McTheatre II Build Thread
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post #306 of 403 Old 11-30-2019, 07:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Oooh... this is exciting news!
I bought the 1 ru 2 channel amp from parts express on Black Friday. It’s going to push 60 rms @ 8ohms which should be enough for the heights.
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post #307 of 403 Old 12-02-2019, 07:34 AM
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I'm in the middle of my own build right now with a few stolen ideas from yours. I have a number of questions but Ill just trouble you for one thing at the moment. The wall frames for fabric. I see you ripped down some 5/4 to build them which is a good idea, but a little extra work. Im curious if you have an opinion on whether its worth it to rip down the 5/4 verses using 1x2. Would be a difference of the frames sticking out .34" further with the 1x2 than the 5/4. I also want try and finish the door the same way you did so i dont know if the deeper frame would create issues with that.

Lastly, im curious about the way you finished the tops and bottoms of the frames. I believe its called a chamfer cut. Did you do that with a table saw or a router?

| Emotiva XMC-2 | Monoprice Monolith 7X | Outlaw 5000 | Arendal 1723S Towers-Center-Surrounds-Monitors | Klipsch CDT 5650 (2) | Polk V60 (2) | Klipsch SPL-120 (2) | HSU VTF3 MK5 (2) | MiniDSP 2x4 HD | Crown XLS 1002 | Buttkicker LFE Mini (4) | Furman Elite 15 DMi | Panamax mr4300 | Eaton 5PX 1500 | JVC RS1000 | Silver Ticket 120” 16:9 | Panasonic UB820 | Apple TV 4K | URC MX 450 | Logitech Harmony Hub |
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post #308 of 403 Old 12-02-2019, 10:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dwander View Post
I'm in the middle of my own build right now with a few stolen ideas from yours. I have a number of questions but Ill just trouble you for one thing at the moment. The wall frames for fabric. I see you ripped down some 5/4 to build them which is a good idea, but a little extra work. Im curious if you have an opinion on whether its worth it to rip down the 5/4 verses using 1x2. Would be a difference of the frames sticking out .34" further with the 1x2 than the 5/4. I also want try and finish the door the same way you did so i dont know if the deeper frame would create issues with that.

Lastly, im curious about the way you finished the tops and bottoms of the frames. I believe its called a chamfer cut. Did you do that with a table saw or a router?
The 5/4 wood is going to be more true than the 1x2’s. I also went with the 5/4 because I was using 1” linacoustic behind my material so it was just the right depth. I needed all the room I could gain for my small room. Using the 5/4 also allows you to cut your width and height on the miter saw first. Then I ripped those cuts on the table saw which left a scrap piece a little thicker than a paint stick. Then I used the table saw to rip the 45 degree chamfer on the pieces that needed it, very simple. Also using 1x2 will have a natural rounded edge with 5/4 and ripping them gives the perfect sharp corners.
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post #309 of 403 Old 12-05-2019, 05:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is the height speakers being tried out with the new amp. I found a set of Infinity HPS 1.5 SPS Bookshelf Speakers on eBay that match my Infinity reference I already have.


Last edited by bluer101; 12-07-2019 at 03:48 PM.
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post #310 of 403 Old 12-06-2019, 09:21 AM
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Not seeing the pic

Denali Cinema
JVC-RS540, 124" Wide 2.40:1 DIY Screen, Denon 8500H, Denon 6200W, Panasonic UB820 UHD Player, (3) iNuke 6000DSP; (2) iNuke NX3000D; (3) HTM-12; (14) RSL C34e surrounds; (2) 18" DA RSS460HO-4 Subwoofers; (1) DA UM18-22 18" Ultimax Subwoofer; (4) DA RSS390HO-4 15" Reference HO Subwoofers; BOSS Platform - (12) 12" Subwoofers
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post #311 of 403 Old 12-07-2019, 01:12 PM
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Not seeing the pic
Me either.

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post #312 of 403 Old 12-07-2019, 03:51 PM - Thread Starter
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I hope it’s fixed now, damn google photos.
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post #313 of 403 Old 12-07-2019, 06:03 PM
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Denali Cinema
JVC-RS540, 124" Wide 2.40:1 DIY Screen, Denon 8500H, Denon 6200W, Panasonic UB820 UHD Player, (3) iNuke 6000DSP; (2) iNuke NX3000D; (3) HTM-12; (14) RSL C34e surrounds; (2) 18" DA RSS460HO-4 Subwoofers; (1) DA UM18-22 18" Ultimax Subwoofer; (4) DA RSS390HO-4 15" Reference HO Subwoofers; BOSS Platform - (12) 12" Subwoofers
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post #314 of 403 Old 12-09-2019, 06:20 AM
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The quality of your work is outstanding. I might have missed this but how are you going to 'close' the soffit?

I ask as I like the fact that they are still accessible. I much prefer this to sealed design if it's possible
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post #315 of 403 Old 12-10-2019, 07:21 PM - Thread Starter
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The quality of your work is outstanding. I might have missed this but how are you going to 'close' the soffit?

I ask as I like the fact that they are still accessible. I much prefer this to sealed design if it's possible
Thank you. The soffits have removable fabric panels on the sides of the tray. The space in the soffits are also stuffed with Walmart body pillows. This makes it easier to pull out to have access vs insulation. Look through my build a few pages back for photos.
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post #316 of 403 Old 01-19-2020, 04:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Took a while but here they are. Mounted the amp at the bottom where I had a slot.



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post #317 of 403 Old 01-19-2020, 05:35 PM
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Those things are quite... HUGE!
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Denali Cinema
JVC-RS540, 124" Wide 2.40:1 DIY Screen, Denon 8500H, Denon 6200W, Panasonic UB820 UHD Player, (3) iNuke 6000DSP; (2) iNuke NX3000D; (3) HTM-12; (14) RSL C34e surrounds; (2) 18" DA RSS460HO-4 Subwoofers; (1) DA UM18-22 18" Ultimax Subwoofer; (4) DA RSS390HO-4 15" Reference HO Subwoofers; BOSS Platform - (12) 12" Subwoofers
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post #318 of 403 Old 01-20-2020, 08:15 AM
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Everything about this room is so slick and clean. Love it.
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"You can never have too many clamps."
My DIYSG HTM-12 build
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post #319 of 403 Old 01-20-2020, 09:15 AM
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It really is such a well-executed small room. That hinged screen is already paying off as you branch out from building the things to modifying them...
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post #320 of 403 Old 03-28-2020, 11:12 AM
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I just found and read through this thread. A very impressive build sir and the level of craftsmanship is amazing. I've been in rooms that were "professionally built" that do not approach your attention to detail.
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post #321 of 403 Old 04-13-2020, 06:57 AM - Thread Starter
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With some quarantine time (I’m still working though) I decided to start finishing the screen with masking. So yesterday morning I decided to pull apart the screen wall and ran the router on the inside of the screen frame. Sanded everything down and gave it a coat of black spray paint. I also had to paint the right side pillar for where the screen swings out too. So now I need to design the electronic masking. I’m going to be using linear actuators with a controller with programmable presets. The upper and lower masking panels are going to be made out of 1/8 aluminum flat stock. For the joints of the aluminum I’m going to use aluminum brazing rods to minimize the thickness without using rivets or screws. As for the sides to move up and down I already have black drawer slides that the aluminum masking will attach too. I need to figure out the pulley system to move the masking panels up and down. The reason for using a pulley system is so the linear actuators will be in cased into a hush box stuffed with insulation and such on the right side of the stage. This is to reduce the actuator noise, I think the extra work will pay off in the end. So if anyone has some ideas as I have been brainstorming for months on materials and how to pull this off.



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post #322 of 403 Old 04-13-2020, 01:25 PM
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With some quarantine time (I’m still working though) I decided to start finishing the screen with masking. So yesterday morning I decided to pull apart the screen wall and ran the router on the inside of the screen frame. Sanded everything down and gave it a coat of black spray paint. I also had to paint the right side pillar for where the screen swings out too. So now I need to design the electronic masking. I’m going to be using linear actuators with a controller with programmable presets. The upper and lower masking panels are going to be made out of 1/8 aluminum flat stock. For the joints of the aluminum I’m going to use aluminum brazing rods to minimize the thickness without using rivets or screws. As for the sides to move up and down I already have black drawer slides that the aluminum masking will attach too. I need to figure out the pulley system to move the masking panels up and down. The reason for using a pulley system is so the linear actuators will be in cased into a hush box stuffed with insulation and such on the right side of the stage. This is to reduce the actuator noise, I think the extra work will pay off in the end. So if anyone has some ideas as I have been brainstorming for months on materials and how to pull this off.



You might want to look at Sor's thread here where he uses aluminum t-channel for an outside frame and tubular motors to move the masks into place: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-d...ld-recipe.html

His solution is for side masking a scope screen to 16X9 but I am more interested in top and bottom masking. I started working on a screen incorporating the tubular motors and aluminum blind tube but have been struggling with creating a mask that can easily roll up and down the tube. I have accumulated some supplies including drawer slides as well but have been struggling putting it all together. Attached is as far as I have got. I look forward to seeing your solution and maybe stealing some ideas!
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post #323 of 403 Old 04-13-2020, 01:37 PM
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Hi!
I have been brainstorming on a masking system as well. And since I'm only at the "double 5/8" drywall between the joist" step, I can't show you what I mean with pictures. Hopefully I can explain well enough.

Since your screen is on hinge (if I remember correctly) you might want your masking system that, when retracted, leave your screen completely free.

What are you planning to use to control the actuators and the actuators?


-Matt

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post #324 of 403 Old 04-13-2020, 01:42 PM - Thread Starter
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You might want to look at Sor's thread here where he uses aluminum t-channel for an outside frame and tubular motors to move the masks into place: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-d...ld-recipe.html

His solution is for side masking a scope screen to 16X9 but I am more interested in top and bottom masking. I started working on a screen incorporating the tubular motors and aluminum blind tube but have been struggling with creating a mask that can easily roll up and down the tube. I have accumulated some supplies including drawer slides as well but have been struggling putting it all together. Attached is as far as I have got. I look forward to seeing your solution and maybe stealing some ideas!
I have looked at his build too, he is doing a phenomenal job. I have gathered some ideas from around the web and have come up with something but until I start building I won’t know if it’s going to work. Mine is more complicated due to having my screen also swing out like a gate. Plus I already bought over a year ago the linear actuators and control box. I’m going to build masking frames that move up and down as opposed to the fabric on a roller concept. I just figured I would throw out the question before I start again this weekend. I will post here as usual with updates as I build.

Here is the actuators with feedback and controller.



This I found online awhile ago and going to build it or close to it. Just instead of using the H channel I’m using the drawer slides. I originally was going to do wood lattice but I’m afraid it will not be stable enough.



I ordered from Amazon today black vinyl coated wire and turn buckles. Also ordered black CNC v grooved pulley wheels with bearings.
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post #325 of 403 Old 04-26-2020, 11:10 AM - Thread Starter
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I started on the masking 2 weeks ago and had to scrap the first design. I built fixed wooden bars on each side of the screen so the masking would move all the way to the bottom and top to allow the screen to swing open. After doing the mockup it just would not work like I needed it to do. Plus with the masking in the way of the speakers and rack I would not be able to service things with it in the way. So I have been thinking it over again for a week and half to come up with a way to attach the masking to the screen itself. This way when the screen swings open it leaves the equipment wide open to work on. Another issue was the standard drawer slides were to wide with my small space to work with.

So yesterday and today I worked on the 2 sides of the masking rail system. I also ordered and received some very small drawer slides that will work perfectly now. I only took 2 photos of a quick mockup but will take more when it starts to come together.

Here is the size difference between the standard slides and the smaller slides. These save lots of space for me.



You can see here the left side of the screen masking rail. The ball bearing pulley wheels and drawer slide on the bottom.

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post #326 of 403 Old 05-04-2020, 05:22 AM - Thread Starter
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A little more progress this past weekend. I built the hush box for the linear actuator, will add stuffing, and tweaking for sound. I temporarily put some kitchen towels in it and it defiantly quieted it down. Also built both top and bottom masks out of the aluminum. I don’t have a final picture with the diagonal cross beams yet. I will start assembling the whole screen and masking to do test runs and tweaking. After I have it all working properly I will take it apart, paint black, wrap the masks, and install the spandex screen. Then move onto the surrounding panels.







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post #327 of 403 Old 05-04-2020, 08:17 AM
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@bluer101 not seeing the pictures - I blame Google Photos again
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post #328 of 403 Old 05-04-2020, 08:34 AM
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@bluer101 not seeing the pictures - I blame Google Photos again
The masking is working a bit too effectively
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post #329 of 403 Old 05-04-2020, 04:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Fixed. What is it with google photos.

Tonight’s work, added the side boards, and test fitting the masks. I’m going to do a full operating mockup then pull it apart to do the spandex and masking fabric to reduce damage.


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post #330 of 403 Old 05-04-2020, 06:02 PM
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How did the aluminum brazing go? From the pics it looks good. How much of a learning curve was it?
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