“The Daydream” Dedicated Theater Build - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 313 Old 05-24-2018, 06:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by James92TSi View Post
That is part of the reason I got into sketchup to model things out. My normal goto is graph paper for making scale drawings when needed for my projects, but after making a few early drawings manually, I found it simply wasn't good enough to build a three dimensional space and get perspective of how the final product would look.

So I started learning sketchup just for my HT build, and by about the second night of working in it I had an accurate scale model of the bare room to start building things into, and it progressed from there into the renderings in my build thread (which are not super detailed, but they give scale and perspective which is what I needed).

There is a series of brief tutorial videos on sketchup that will let you hit the ground running: https://www.sketchup.com/learn/videos/826

This is a bit of a departure from HT building itself... but it is a free tool that might help you as much as it's helped me to visualize what you are planning without having to do full scale mock-ups, shoebox dioramas, or however else one might build a 3D representations of HT ideas....

I use sketchup make 2017, which is the last free version they offered that installed locally on your PC. Starting with 2018 the free version moved to web browser only which I am not a fan of. https://www.sketchup.com/download/all
I tried sketch up a few years ago but I wanted something I can design on the go with my iPad. So I started using a app called room arranger. It does work extremely well but what you design and 3D model still might not look right in person. In my first post I have my renderings from first layout. I just started to update some things that have changed. I will post them soon.
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post #62 of 313 Old 05-24-2018, 07:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Here are updated rendering.
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post #63 of 313 Old 05-24-2018, 08:07 AM
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Yep, not having a basement stinks for the extra space and Sq ft is a killer, but I’m dealing with what we have.
To look in the bright side, I think some of these small theaters are very cozy and present some unique opportunities. Unless you have a big family tight knit, home theater is most often an activity of two or even one person. Small rooms also make the equipment requirements more reasonable.

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On another note I ordered my Middle Atlantic shelves with custom faceplates, 5 in total. Did not want to spend that much but already started the rack and might as well go down the rabbit hole.
The Middle Atlantic stuff is expensive but it really makes things look great in the end. I think it is worth it. I spent what I thought was way too much money on a Middle Atlantic wheeled rack in 2008 and ten years later still use it. I'll probably use it another ten years down the line. If I do a dedicated theater I'll just build a section that accepts it. The custom faceplates become useless eventually yeah but that comes down to how big of an upgrade bug you have. Also with the rack you might find yourself buying equipment you know comes with rack ears. You find that yeah that pre-processor is more money, but once I don't have to get the custom faceplate and shelf to make my rack look nice it is right in line PLUS has more features.

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Here are updated rendering.
I don't think the soffits are too big. Did you at any point consider a drop ceiling? I know they don't look as nice...
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post #64 of 313 Old 05-24-2018, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluer101 View Post
I tried sketch up a few years ago but I wanted something I can design on the go with my iPad. So I started using a app called room arranger. It does work extremely well but what you design and 3D model still might not look right in person. In my first post I have my renderings from first layout. I just started to update some things that have changed. I will post them soon.
Right on! Those renderings look really good - seems well proportioned to me.

I know what you mean about the middle atlantic faceplates. They're expensive but hard not to go for if you are building your rack to be a showpiece / design element. I couldn't spend the money on faceplates if it were going in an equipment room or closet (though I have seen some people on here do just that....).
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Also with the rack you might find yourself buying equipment you know comes with rack ears. You find that yeah that pre-processor is more money, but once I don't have to get the custom faceplate and shelf to make my rack look nice it is right in line PLUS has more features.
Excellent point, don't overlook spending that faceplate money on rackmount gear instead!
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post #65 of 313 Old 05-26-2018, 09:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Woo hoo, wife just texted me this. My rack stuff showed up 3 days early.
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post #66 of 313 Old 05-29-2018, 09:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok, got my custom rack shelves installed this weekend. Waiting on one more shelf and my new Oppo 203, notice the blank spot waiting.









Prewired in the 3 custom power bridges and 2 dedicated 20amp circuits.



Rain let up for a few so I could run to Home Depot to get wood to start framing my soffits. I made the L braces up first and made one soffit on the ground and hung it up. The drywall on the ceiling was not level and wavy. But got most of that out when screwing the soffit to the ceiling joists.







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post #67 of 313 Old 05-29-2018, 10:11 AM
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That entry is looking very nice indeed!

And just who makes those linear slat vent panels?
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post #68 of 313 Old 05-29-2018, 11:39 AM - Thread Starter
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That entry is looking very nice indeed!

And just who makes those linear slat vent panels?
Thanks.

The rack vents, blanks, drawers, and fans are all from AC Infinity. Price is right and I think the vents look the best from all makers of av rack accessories.
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post #69 of 313 Old 05-29-2018, 11:51 AM
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Those vents are certainly the nicest I have seen, and mine are getting the boot......
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post #70 of 313 Old 05-29-2018, 07:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Did other side soffit tonight. I used like last night 2 extra 2x4’s to pin and hold the soffit in place. They became my helping hand. Finished the drywall around the modified projector niche.





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post #71 of 313 Old 06-01-2018, 07:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Got some of the front soffit done last night. Still need to add more cross support as it’s way deeper for the front faculae wall and stage. My room or should I say most rooms are not square or level. So trying to get everything lined up has been a real chore. It’s the best it can be.


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post #72 of 313 Old 06-01-2018, 09:46 AM
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Soffits are looking great! The projector nook just give a bit extra room for cables and cooling?
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post #73 of 313 Old 06-01-2018, 10:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Soffits are looking great! The projector nook just give a bit extra room for cables and cooling?
That space is 28 wide by 14 tall. I redid it a few days ago to add more room. The nook is only part of the projector box. I needed the extra depth for my throw distance and biggest screen possible.

But now I think I’m going to abandon the whole projector in soffit idea. I’m going to mount the projector under the soffit with my peerless mount. Still need to make a niche in the wall for the depth. I’m afraid of the heat even with intake and exhaust on the front of the Epson. Plus this way it’s flexible in replacing the projector with something else down the road. Easier to fine tune alignment too with the mount vs shelf mounted. I’m so torn on what to do.
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post #74 of 313 Old 06-01-2018, 10:53 AM
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That space is 28 wide by 14 tall. I redid it a few days ago to add more room. The nook is only part of the projector box. I needed the extra depth for my throw distance and biggest screen possible.

But now I think I’m going to abandon the whole projector in soffit idea. I’m going to mount the projector under the soffit with my peerless mount. Still need to make a niche in the wall for the depth. I’m afraid of the heat even with intake and exhaust on the front of the Epson. Plus this way it’s flexible in replacing the projector with something else down the road. Easier to fine tune alignment too with the mount vs shelf mounted. I’m so torn on what to do.
Projector in soffit is certainly going to be the cleanest look, but I think with your setup using the peerless mount has a WHOLE lot of advantages and that's probably the way I'd go. One thing also to keep in mind is that you want to be able to make a picture a little bit bigger than your screen, an inch or so all around. If you go to exactly the calculated max screen size for the distance it is almost impossible to get the screen entirely full because the projector is always ever so slightly off and you have no room for adjustment left.
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post #75 of 313 Old 06-01-2018, 10:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Projector in soffit is certainly going to be the cleanest look, but I think with your setup using the peerless mount has a WHOLE lot of advantages and that's probably the way I'd go. One thing also to keep in mind is that you want to be able to make a picture a little bit bigger than your screen, an inch or so all around. If you go to exactly the calculated max screen size for the distance it is almost impossible to get the screen entirely full because the projector is always ever so slightly off and you have no room for adjustment left.
Thanks, that the plan to make it that way. When using a small room have to deal with what I have.
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post #76 of 313 Old 06-02-2018, 09:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Need some help everyone. After going back and forth with where to place the projector I decided this morning to build a soffit box. It’s better to see it in person. Does it look ok and does everyone think there is enough room around it? I like the looks a lot.






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post #77 of 313 Old 06-02-2018, 12:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Christmas in June. Too bad my rack shelf and faceplate arrive next week. Also received my middle Atlantic vertical lacing bars from eBay.








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post #78 of 313 Old 06-02-2018, 09:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Got the rear soffits done tonight.

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post #79 of 313 Old 06-03-2018, 02:08 AM
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Soffit and rack are looking great so far! Congrats on the new baby Oppo

On the projector box and space around the projector - looks like your PJ has both the intake and exhaust on the front (lens) panel, so I think I'd be comfortable with your soffit box arrangement.

Maybe a good question to ask or research on the owner's thread for your PJ if you need some reassurance? https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-dig...rs-thread.html

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post #80 of 313 Old 06-03-2018, 06:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Soffit and rack are looking great so far! Congrats on the new baby Oppo

On the projector box and space around the projector - looks like your PJ has both the intake and exhaust on the front (lens) panel, so I think I'd be comfortable with your soffit box arrangement.

Maybe a good question to ask or research on the owner's thread for your PJ if you need some reassurance? https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-dig...rs-thread.html
Baby Oppo

I have been looking all over the forums and google images for projectors in soffit or similar. I’m just a over planner about things and heat with electronics is something I have always addressed. I will come up with something for that area for just incase. But I really like my original design with it in the soffit and gets the light path up higher. Especially with my entrance at the front of the room, but then that does not matter after the movie starts.
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post #81 of 313 Old 06-03-2018, 08:10 AM
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Just how much vertical offset will a chosen projector get you? And where is it's intake and exhaust located?

I might be very tempted to make that box easily removed and replaceable, and think about what happens if there's a projector upgrade
down the road.
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post #82 of 313 Old 06-03-2018, 10:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Just how much vertical offset will a chosen projector get you? And where is it's intake and exhaust located?

I might be very tempted to make that box easily removed and replaceable, and think about what happens if there's a projector upgrade
down the road.
Plenty of lens shift on the Epson 5040ub. The intake and exhaust is on the front so we are ok. I can replace the projector box in the future if need be. It’s screwed in from the inside of the box. Will take a little work but not too bad.
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post #83 of 313 Old 06-03-2018, 11:48 AM
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I'd say you have your boxes all checked off nicely.
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post #84 of 313 Old 06-03-2018, 04:07 PM
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I'm planning on a projector in a box in the rear soffit too. Was going to add a side vent with a fan that ducts into an adjoining room, and maybe make it either switched or heat controlled.

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post #85 of 313 Old 06-03-2018, 04:50 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm planning on a projector in a box in the rear soffit too. Was going to add a side vent with a fan that ducts into an adjoining room, and maybe make it either switched or heat controlled.

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My room air exchange exhaust vent will be in the front of the soffit right beside the projector exhaust. I did not want it in the box due to the projector exhausting out the front it would suck the hot air back into the box. The front of my box is going to remain open too.
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post #86 of 313 Old 06-05-2018, 06:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Ordered my seating yesterday and will be delivered in 3-4 weeks. I went with Octane Dream HR row of 3.

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post #87 of 313 Old 06-10-2018, 10:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Still working on soffits. Getting all 3/4 oak ply fitted on the soffit bottom. Then I will put the tray light front on today. Then remove the 3 panels and sand and stain, then reinstall.








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post #88 of 313 Old 06-12-2018, 06:12 AM - Thread Starter
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For those who are following.

Small update but takes time to work on. Woodwork that will be finished takes more time than other materials. Cannot hide things with caulk and such. Put on the soffit / light tray edge. This takes care of the unfinished oak ply edge and the tray edge. I used my handy kreg jig all the way around to attach the edge board. The board is solid oak 3/4 thick x 3.5. In pictures below you can see the pocket holes. I also used 2 inch coarse kreg screws to mount the soffit bottom to the soffit framing. Seeing it’s going to be stained I don’t want any visible screws. So being a bigger flat headed screw it acts as a washer and allows to go through the 2x4 and about 1/2 to 5/8 into the oak ply. I did every other support because I will be removing the soffit oak to sand and stain. The soffit is assembled in 3 pieces now. Then when I put it back up I will drill and screw the other supports. I’m also considering to put caulk bead between the oak ply and 2x4 supports to help hold and to make sure no vibrations.

Then I need to get my flooring in to do my stage and columns.





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post #89 of 313 Old 06-12-2018, 03:57 PM
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post #90 of 313 Old 06-13-2018, 06:29 AM - Thread Starter
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