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post #91 of 258 Old 04-19-2018, 07:29 PM - Thread Starter
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The Sierra Nevada Theater!

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Originally Posted by TMcG View Post
I like it. My only reservation would be if the dark gray of the cloud will be noticeable or will it just end up looking like black. If you have other colors happening in the carpet and fabric you may want to make the cloud black as well, keeping the lighter gray to help the LED strip lights seem a bit brighter and to provide that contrast between the soffits and the cloud.

I dunno...just spitballin' here.


Agreed. The lighter color should help the LED lights at the ceiling. Grizzle Gray is the next shade lighter for the cloud and might be a better separation. I think I could even go one shade lighter for the ceiling?







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post #92 of 258 Old 04-21-2018, 09:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Did a test fit for the Seaton F2 rear subs before painting the columns. Felt good that I had planned correctly, but was nice to see them in their spot.

Tricorn Black paint on the columns. Although these will be wrapped in fabric, seems like good practice.

Got the conduit ran into the mechanical room for 6 surrounds and 6 Atmos. Last 1 1/2” pipe will handle balanced cables for the LCR and subs on the stage.

Tomorrow will have some more painting after going with a light gray (Gray Matters) on the ceiling between soffit and cloud. I will try to determine whether the cloud will be a dark gray or just stay black.











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post #93 of 258 Old 04-22-2018, 04:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post
I like it. My only reservation would be if the dark gray of the cloud will be noticeable or will it just end up looking like black. If you have other colors happening in the carpet and fabric you may want to make the cloud black as well, keeping the lighter gray to help the LED strip lights seem a bit brighter and to provide that contrast between the soffits and the cloud.

I dunno...just spitballin' here.


Well, looks like your thoughts were pretty damn accurate. Tried a few grays, end up liking the contrast of black/gray/black. It’s interesting that the gray in person does not look nearly as light as in this picture? Of course this is with natural light coming through a window that will be framed in! With dark carpet and can lights it may be a different story!




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post #94 of 258 Old 04-22-2018, 06:31 PM
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Hey,

The house is a new build, so it's a little bit of both. My contractor has allowed me to do a lot of the work and really has no idea about sound proofing etc. ALSO!! I have had many phone calls and a bunch of guidance from Jeff Parkinson (BIGmouthinDC).

I have also hired a bunch of help for "side work" during the evening and weekends. The builder has been VERY understanding. Trying to stay ahead of their general schedule.

The window wall will be the last thing finished, after we get COO.

Thanks
James
Hey James,

Looking good on this. The wife and I will be building our "forever" home in the next few years and I want to take the same approach that you are, having a contractor that will allow me some leeway in regards to my dedicated room. Any tips on how you approached that conversation with your contractor during the initial meetings? Like you, I certainly would want to stay ahead of the contractor's team to not delay the building of the rest of the home.

Thanks,
DM
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post #95 of 258 Old 04-23-2018, 06:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey James,

Looking good on this. The wife and I will be building our "forever" home in the next few years and I want to take the same approach that you are, having a contractor that will allow me some leeway in regards to my dedicated room. Any tips on how you approached that conversation with your contractor during the initial meetings? Like you, I certainly would want to stay ahead of the contractor's team to not delay the building of the rest of the home.

Thanks,
DM
The process started with the initial meeting to discuss the entire home and layout. The builder was encouraging and wanted to make sure we built the house the way we wanted.

During our discussion he figured out I had a better knowledge base on the room itself and the acoustics for building a theater. Once the “door” was open for me to complete some items myself, and they did not interfere with the general house build, he has basically let me run.

Most of the “side” work has been accomplished with the very subs that are working on the house, I just hired them outside of their responsibilities on my house for their employer. I have gotten very lucky, not sure many contractors would allow what we have accomplished. Best of luck on your build!
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post #96 of 258 Old 04-23-2018, 02:40 PM - Thread Starter
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The Sierra Nevada Theater!

Here is a new picture of the door molding and wide throw hinges. I am not using any baseboards or trim, but needed protection for the sound panels. These are only about 1 1/4” wide, but 2” deep to meet the panels. Here is what we went with:






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post #97 of 258 Old 04-24-2018, 05:17 AM
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I dig the wide throw hinges, I did the same thing for mine. I have a word of caution for you though:

My door is a solid core, with a panel attached to the inside, so it has a lot of weight to it. It was perfectly set and level, with ~ 1/8" all the way around. Over time it "settled", causing it to stick. After going through several attempts to "re-square" the frame, I realized something with TMcG's help: The weight of the door is pulling the wide throw hinges out of whack. I had to add a couple more hingest (going from 3 to 5) to mitigate it "somewhat", but the real answer would've been to double or triple up the framing, as well as sister them up across to the next stud, to even out the weight.

Mine were the 8" WT hinges, so you may have different results, but I saw yours and automatically shuddered...
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post #98 of 258 Old 04-24-2018, 02:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougUSMC View Post
I dig the wide throw hinges, I did the same thing for mine. I have a word of caution for you though:

My door is a solid core, with a panel attached to the inside, so it has a lot of weight to it. It was perfectly set and level, with ~ 1/8" all the way around. Over time it "settled", causing it to stick. After going through several attempts to "re-square" the frame, I realized something with TMcG's help: The weight of the door is pulling the wide throw hinges out of whack. I had to add a couple more hingest (going from 3 to 5) to mitigate it "somewhat", but the real answer would've been to double or triple up the framing, as well as sister them up across to the next stud, to even out the weight.

Mine were the 8" WT hinges, so you may have different results, but I saw yours and automatically shuddered...
Thanks for the heads up! My door is HEAVY! Maybe 5 hinges is the best proactive approach?
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post #99 of 258 Old 04-24-2018, 03:15 PM
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4 SOLID hinges are more than enough, unless the door is like 300kg?

"If everything is under control you are just not driving fast enough"

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post #100 of 258 Old 04-24-2018, 04:51 PM
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Agreed. 4 hinges is enough. I would make sure they are ball bearing hinges as well. They last longer and the action is much smoother.

@DougUSMC - I had forgotten I gave you that advice until you mentioned it but then I remember I scared the heck out of you because I diagnosed the problem and gave you corrective actions before you even posted pictures or described the issue in greater detail. That post cracked me up...good times
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post #101 of 258 Old 04-24-2018, 07:23 PM
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I had 5 hinges put on a door I ordered a while back, They said where do you want them. I thought about it and said put them near the top and bottom hinges because that is where the push/pull forces are at work. They did just what I asked and when I installed it I discovered they put them so close that you couldn't pull the pins from the bottom hinge of each pair.
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post #102 of 258 Old 04-25-2018, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post
Agreed. 4 hinges is enough.
Unless, like me you already installed 3, and have OCD. Then you need 5 hinges so it still looks even.

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@DougUSMC - I had forgotten I gave you that advice until you mentioned it but then I remember I scared the heck out of you because I diagnosed the problem and gave you corrective actions before you even posted pictures or described the issue in greater detail. That post cracked me up...good times
Yuuup, that was definitely my problem. It's awesome that I'm never surprised any more, when someone else has a perfect solution to my problem, b/c we've seen it before!

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I had 5 hinges put on a door I ordered a while back, They said where do you want them. I thought about it and said put them near the top and bottom hinges because that is where the push/pull forces are at work. They did just what I asked and when I installed it I discovered they put them so close that you couldn't pull the pins from the bottom hinge of each pair.
Genius! Did they offer anything when you had to move one of each set?
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post #103 of 258 Old 04-25-2018, 08:13 AM
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Genius! Did they offer anything when you had to move one of each set?
Didn't move them, just unscrewed the extra hinges when I needed to take the door off. They followed my directions and I got what I asked for. I ordered the pre-hung door from DC and when I arrived in Ohio for the project went to pick it up, I loaded it in my van and it wasn't until I was ready to hang that the swear words were uttered.

1 3/4 solid core door with two layers of 1/2 MDF added along with GG. Heavy beast.
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post #104 of 258 Old 04-26-2018, 05:19 AM - Thread Starter
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This week I finished up my subwoofer selection for the stage. I have bounced around from the following:

4 HST 18 mkii and a DIY build (time and effort canceled this plan)

2 Seaton 18” Terraform Subwoofer (285lbs ended up being a challenge to ship)

And the winner.....

Seaton F18+ Master and 3ea. F18 Slaves Thank you Axpona for the demo’s!!

I have the Seaton F2’s in the back and Seaton Catalyst 12C for LCR, so I’m a fan.....

Now the remaining equipment needed is down to a processor and a projector.
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post #105 of 258 Old 04-26-2018, 05:48 AM
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Didn't move them, just unscrewed the extra hinges when I needed to take the door off. They followed my directions and I got what I asked for. I ordered the pre-hung door from DC and when I arrived in Ohio for the project went to pick it up, I loaded it in my van and it wasn't until I was ready to hang that the swear words were uttered.

1 3/4 solid core door with two layers of 1/2 MDF added along with GG. Heavy beast.
Dang, that's impressive! How did you man-handle it into position, to get the pins/screws in??
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post #106 of 258 Old 04-26-2018, 07:01 AM
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Dang, that's impressive! How did you man-handle it into position, to get the pins/screws in??
Very carefully, just put some shims under the door until it was the right height and shoved it together mating with the hinges. The hard part was carrying it into the house and standing it up.
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post #107 of 258 Old 04-26-2018, 08:46 AM
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Liking how this is progressing! You'll love the end result
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post #108 of 258 Old 04-27-2018, 01:48 PM
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So what color/type fabric you putting on your columns.? Also, are you planning on adding diffusion to your ceiling on the cloud that you have installed as well?

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post #109 of 258 Old 04-28-2018, 05:08 AM - Thread Starter
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So what color/type fabric you putting on your columns.? Also, are you planning on adding diffusion to your ceiling on the cloud that you have installed as well?
So, still deciding on the exact color for wall panels and columns. They will be in the style of Peter M's theater

Columns will most likely be GOM Anchorage Onyx, wall panels leading contender is GOM Anchorage Asteroid. There is an outside chance of a color though, still considering Amber or Pumpkin!

The ceiling will not be treated. I did initially consider wood slats on the cloud portion, possible a baffle, but it mostly was for aesthetics. It now provides an architectural design and functional place (via the tray area) for LED lighting.

Between all of the walls having some type of acoustic panel and the carpet, ceiling should be fine. I was concerned it may be too dead, and still putting a final plan together. I have a plan from Quest, just is a matter of $$$. The house itself is 100K over budget already!! BIG and I have discussed alternatives that he has used with good results.
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post #110 of 258 Old 05-05-2018, 02:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Things are moving at a much slower pace waiting for the rest of the house to catch up.

Next up this week is to order fabric for columns and panels. Current favorites are Onyx for the columns and Goose for the panels. This is a big change away from gray and into a warmer taupe. The carpet and upper ceiling paint will need to change.

Then the big task of making frames for the sound panels. About 60!! With the always strong advice of BIG I have found some 5/4 (1 1/8”) primed FJ pine. Should work well for a 3/4” bevel.

Here are a few other updates....

The front subs arrived and are patiently awaiting their duty. 4 Seaton F18’s



Theater base paint is complete. SW Tricorn Black.



Starting painting the Volt 10’s with Duratex too!




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post #111 of 258 Old 05-06-2018, 07:54 PM - Thread Starter
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And the Volt 10’s are coated and ready for assembly.

I bought a gallon and barely used 1/3 of it, and THAT was 2 coats!



Installed the Atmos ceiling speakers (RSL), the can lights and the linear registers too....






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post #112 of 258 Old 05-07-2018, 12:09 AM
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I thought you said things had slowed down?!? You are moving much faster still than the rest of us

Love the look of the room, especially with that floating drop down ceiling in the middle! Do you have any additional pictures of how it was made? I’m guessing just a wodden frame with some drywall screwed onto that?

Keep it up with the nice pictures.

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post #113 of 258 Old 05-07-2018, 07:40 AM - Thread Starter
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The Sierra Nevada Theater!

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I thought you said things had slowed down?!? You are moving much faster still than the rest of us



Love the look of the room, especially with that floating drop down ceiling in the middle! Do you have any additional pictures of how it was made? I’m guessing just a wodden frame with some drywall screwed onto that?



Keep it up with the nice pictures.


Hey Chris



The previous updates all seemed like big moves, these are the little one’s I guess!



I didn’t take any pictures building the cloud, damn. The frame is 2 x 4’s placed on the small end, giving me 3.5”, then 1/2” plywood and 1/2” lightweight drywall. Overkill really, but need enough space for the can lights to

mount. Roxul insulation between the studs, and then finished with 1” x 2” trim on the tray portion. The tray is tight, but hides the LED lights perfectly and no dots on the ceiling

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post #114 of 258 Old 05-08-2018, 08:33 AM
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Does Duratex have an option for flat black or is it all flat black? Did you roll or spray the Duratex? This room is looking great!
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post #115 of 258 Old 05-08-2018, 12:32 PM
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The OSB is complete!!



The alcoves under the rear surrounds will house a pair of Seaton F2+ subs. The F2 is only 15” deep. The surrounds and subs will be inside the same rear columns, the recess allows them to be the same depth as the backer boxes = 6”




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NOw tell me, how did you manage to get BIG approve of the OSB for the first layer all around? Looks like you twisted his arms far enough !!!

Impressive build..I'm still pondering over different options and plans and every time I see a new thread, my plan changes (for good or bad, I dunno). With summer starting, I'll have to hold off until fall since I don't want construction mess..

Any reason why you didn't plan on having the PJ in the mech room behind? I intend on doing it as that will also be my AV rack storage..and I can tackle the heat issues much easily..Not sure if there are any cons with that. haven't seen anyone done that with detailed pics. only have seen a few threads that talks about it.
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post #116 of 258 Old 05-08-2018, 12:37 PM
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NOw tell me, how did you manage to get BIG approve of the OSB for the first layer all around?
As long as BIG doesn't have to waste his time doing it and picking splinters out of his hands you can use as much OSB as you want.
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post #117 of 258 Old 05-08-2018, 12:43 PM
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As long as BIG doesn't have to waste his time doing it and picking splinters out of his hands you can use as much OSB as you want.
. Now I know..But, whenever I see your comment on the splinters, I always thought, why was he not using some gloves..and the BIG's response to it immediately followed as my mind voice...(BIG: Coz, real men don't use gloves)..I'll make sure, I'm not posting pics of myself with my gloves on when I start my build..

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post #118 of 258 Old 05-08-2018, 02:09 PM
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Thanks Chris,

The inside soffit idea worked really well for the Atmos Speakers. The joists above were not in the ideal position for Atmos placement and the backer box route, and this solves that perfectly. I think visually it looks great too, and creates I nice acoustic space for the Atmos speakers. I’m using the RSL in ceiling speakers that many people really like.
I'm sure, it does have a clean look. But, looks like it might be positioned outside the rear seats once everything has been completed and may be too close to the side surrounds (pics are deceiving with scale). Is this the recommendation you received from Quest?
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post #119 of 258 Old 05-08-2018, 02:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Does Duratex have an option for flat black or is it all flat black? Did you roll or spray the Duratex? This room is looking great!
I think it is all flat black. I brushed it on and then used their textured roller. Parts Express has a good video.
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post #120 of 258 Old 05-08-2018, 02:57 PM - Thread Starter
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The Sierra Nevada Theater!

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I'm sure, it does have a clean look. But, looks like it might be positioned outside the rear seats once everything has been completed and may be too close to the side surrounds (pics are deceiving with scale). Is this the recommendation you received from Quest?


The Atmos speakers are just barely above the rear outside seats (4), and certainly outside the front seats (3). The Atmos speakers are aligned with the front speakers width, and are not supposed to be directly overhead of the listener. The Atmos Speakers are centered about 27" away from the side walls in the 2nd soffit, as each soffit is 18". Side surround speakers sit out 5" from the wall inside of the backer box.



Check this out:


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