Soundproofing: I think I screwed up - Hoping for some advice - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 14 Old 12-03-2017, 10:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Soundproofing: I think I screwed up - Hoping for some advice

Hi All,

I'm building a soundproof rehearsal space (built a room inside my garage not touching any existing walls, used clips, hat channel, DD & GG), and I think I screwed up my doorway. Due to the space created by the clips and channel between the studs and first layer of drywall, there's a roughly 1.5" gap all around the rough opening for the door, which I figured was problematic, especially since the doorway is probably already my weak link. So I thought I'd be clever and seal that gap by putting some 1x2 lumber in the gap, which fit perfectly, and seal it all up with acoustical caulk. However, after I'd done that and hung the door (see pic), I realized I'd just created a short circuit, since the 1x2 is touching both the first layer of drywall and the stud.

So did I just screw up everything I'd done with clips, channel, DD & GG, and should I take the door off and rip out the 1x2s? (of course I used liquid nails in addition to screws, so that will be a pain) Or is it not such a big deal since it's just one small part of the room?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Chris
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post #2 of 14 Old 12-04-2017, 05:46 AM
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It is really hard to seal the doorways airtight and still maintain 100% isolation, I've often filled that area with wood but the main reason is to provide backing for an inward swinging door and having some wood to screw the hinges to behind the jamb for really heavy doors, I wouldn't have screwed the drywall to the wood , rather let it float. I would have put the wood up first and made it extend flush with the final surface of the drywall. Then put your drywall up and leave a small gap to the wood which you caulk.

I don't think that one small area of contact is going to ruin your project.
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post #3 of 14 Old 12-04-2017, 06:20 AM
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To put things in perspective, I recently had a movie night with family over thanksgiving weekend. Because I have not yet had a separate HVAC installed for the theater, there is no active ventilation in the room. Which is fine for just me and the wife, but with a room full of 9 people, can't close the airlock communicating doors. So what did we do? Watched a movie at full volume with each of the double doors about 25% open for airflow. On the basement level, of course the sound was not as contained as when the doors are closed...but on the floor right above the theater, there was no noticeable difference...some occasional muffled bass. So, I'd suspect your situation has definitely not ruined your soundproofing efforts. I can guaranteeeee you that if your theater is in your basement, then you're absolutely have nothing to worry about.
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post #4 of 14 Old 12-04-2017, 07:20 AM
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It would be helpful to attach a picture and/or diagram of what you ended up with after your "fix". If I am understanding correctly, you just put a 1x2 "filler" strip next to the frame by attaching it to the structural framing that is visible in your picture. It isn't clear which side of the room in the inside and which is the outside.

Ideally, you would want the door frame to attach to one side of the structure and not touch the other. If the door frame is attached to one side and the "filler" is attached to the other, and you caulk the gap between them, there will be no direct contact. It sounds like you may have acomplished this already, or potentially could withhout too much difficulty.

Realistically, unless you have a specially constructed door (somethign much more than just a solid core door), more sound is likely to leak through the door itself than the framing.
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post #5 of 14 Old 12-04-2017, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpowell99 View Post
Hi All,

I'm building a soundproof rehearsal space (built a room inside my garage not touching any existing walls, used clips, hat channel, DD & GG), and I think I screwed up my doorway. Due to the space created by the clips and channel between the studs and first layer of drywall, there's a roughly 1.5" gap all around the rough opening for the door, which I figured was problematic, especially since the doorway is probably already my weak link. So I thought I'd be clever and seal that gap by putting some 1x2 lumber in the gap, which fit perfectly, and seal it all up with acoustical caulk. However, after I'd done that and hung the door (see pic), I realized I'd just created a short circuit, since the 1x2 is touching both the first layer of drywall and the stud.

So did I just screw up everything I'd done with clips, channel, DD & GG, and should I take the door off and rip out the 1x2s? (of course I used liquid nails in addition to screws, so that will be a pain) Or is it not such a big deal since it's just one small part of the room?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Chris
Do you have a build thread? If not, can you tell me a bit about your space and the methods you used? I'm slowly making plans for a rehearsal space and would love to know about yours.
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post #6 of 14 Old 12-04-2017, 11:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
It is really hard to seal the doorways airtight and still maintain 100% isolation, I've often filled that area with wood but the main reason is to provide backing for an inward swinging door and having some wood to screw the hinges to behind the jamb for really heavy doors, I wouldn't have screwed the drywall to the wood , rather let it float. I would have put the wood up first and made it extend flush with the final surface of the drywall. Then put your drywall up and leave a small gap to the wood which you caulk.

I don't think that one small area of contact is going to ruin your project.
Thanks a lot, BIG. So it sounds like I could get to your approach by cutting the interior drywall back about an inch all around the doorway opening, taking out the 1x2s and replacing them with 1x3s or 1x4s to extend it out flush with the final surface of the interior drywall. And then as you said, I'd caulk to seal it up.

Does that sound right?

Thanks again,
Chris
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post #7 of 14 Old 12-04-2017, 03:00 PM
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I don't know if it is worth bothering with at this point but to do what I said you would cut the drywall/track back 1 5/8 inches then screw and glue 1 1/2 wide piece of wood to the 2x framing. It would need to be as tall as the clip, channel and two layers, Around 2 3/8 depending on your clips. then caulk the gap. Use 3 1/2 inch deck screws in pilot holes.
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post #8 of 14 Old 12-04-2017, 11:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DaveClement View Post
It would be helpful to attach a picture and/or diagram of what you ended up with after your "fix". If I am understanding correctly, you just put a 1x2 "filler" strip next to the frame by attaching it to the structural framing that is visible in your picture. It isn't clear which side of the room in the inside and which is the outside.

Ideally, you would want the door frame to attach to one side of the structure and not touch the other. If the door frame is attached to one side and the "filler" is attached to the other, and you caulk the gap between them, there will be no direct contact. It sounds like you may have acomplished this already, or potentially could withhout too much difficulty.

Realistically, unless you have a specially constructed door (somethign much more than just a solid core door), more sound is likely to leak through the door itself than the framing.
Thanks for the response, Dave, and sorry for the less-than-clear pic, but you did interpret it correctly - with the exception that I did not leave any room between sides, as the 1x2 wedged in there really snugly. It seems like my options right now are to go with Big's solution, try to cut a gap in the 1x2 in place and then caulk it, or leave it as is and move on. I may end up going with the last option, though it's kinda nagging at me right now...

Thanks,
Chris
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post #9 of 14 Old 12-04-2017, 11:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
I don't know if it is worth bothering with at this point but to do what I said you would cut the drywall/track back 1 5/8 inches then screw and glue 1 1/2 wide piece of wood to the 2x framing. It would need to be as tall as the clip, channel and two layers, Around 2 3/8 depending on your clips. then caulk the gap. Use 3 1/2 inch deck screws in pilot holes.
Thank you, Big. I appreciate the advice!
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post #10 of 14 Old 12-04-2017, 11:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Thurston9 View Post
Do you have a build thread? If not, can you tell me a bit about your space and the methods you used? I'm slowly making plans for a rehearsal space and would love to know about yours.
I'm a total newb, so I don't know that I would learn from me, and I don't have a build thread, but I tried to follow the prevailing wisdom on this forum. Essentially I built a frame out of 2x4s in my garage, made the studs 24" OC, then put a layer of 5/8" drywall on the external walls and roof. Next I put up regular pink insulation, screwed RSIC-1 clips with deck screws into the 2x4s per the info sheet you can find when you buy them, installed 25 gauge hat channel into the clips and screwed two layers of 5/8" drywall onto the channels with green glue sandwiched in between. Finally, I made the dumb mistake of wedging some 1x2s into the rough opening for my door, creating a short circuit between the drywall and studs. Don't do that last part!

I have another hare-brained idea of putting a second door made out of two sheets of 1/2" OSB sandwiching some green glue on the inside of, but wider and taller than my doorway. Hopefully it works...

Chris
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post #11 of 14 Old 12-06-2017, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Cpowell99 View Post
I'm a total newb, so I don't know that I would learn from me, and I don't have a build thread, but I tried to follow the prevailing wisdom on this forum. Essentially I built a frame out of 2x4s in my garage, made the studs 24" OC, then put a layer of 5/8" drywall on the external walls and roof. Next I put up regular pink insulation, screwed RSIC-1 clips with deck screws into the 2x4s per the info sheet you can find when you buy them, installed 25 gauge hat channel into the clips and screwed two layers of 5/8" drywall onto the channels with green glue sandwiched in between. Finally, I made the dumb mistake of wedging some 1x2s into the rough opening for my door, creating a short circuit between the drywall and studs. Don't do that last part!

I have another hare-brained idea of putting a second door made out of two sheets of 1/2" OSB sandwiching some green glue on the inside of, but wider and taller than my doorway. Hopefully it works...

Chris
Nice! So you're thinking about having a double door? Or are you adding a second entry into the room? I'd love to hear your opinions on the effectiveness of the whole project when you're done.
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post #12 of 14 Old 12-06-2017, 08:32 AM
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Double doors are usually more effective than a single.
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post #13 of 14 Old 12-08-2017, 08:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Nice! So you're thinking about having a double door? Or are you adding a second entry into the room? I'd love to hear your opinions on the effectiveness of the whole project when you're done.
Yup, it'll be a double (airlock) door, or at least my version of one. I'll report back once I'm done, which will hopefully be soon!
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post #14 of 14 Old 12-08-2017, 08:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Double doors are usually more effective than a single.
Thanks, Big. That's what I'm going for. On a related note, what do you typically use to fill the gap between the rough opening and the door frame? I bought a can of door and window foam insulation, but I'm wondering if there's something with more mass I can/should use?
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