AVS Forum banner

The Seth-o-Plex 2.0 dedicated theater room build thread

10K views 49 replies 15 participants last post by  CBINVB 
#1 · (Edited)
Well, here's my build thread!

The Seth-o-Plex 1.0 has been taken completely apart. I bought a 1950's era house over in Eastern Oregon and have moved.

The basement has/had two "bedrooms", but I have other plans for those...

I've always wanted my own dedicated theater room with 100% light control set up exactly how I want it instead of making do with the room I had available. This space was the deciding factor for this house.

First up, here's the general overview of my end goal:



Edit 9/20/18 - Here's how it actually turned out:



I already had a three seat sectional that I really liked, so I bought another 3 seats plus 2 drink consoles to go between them. I didn't get the consoles in the diagram. I'm thinking I'll put them in the front row as that's going to be MLP and the most used.

Added 12/15/2018: Full equipment list in Post 36

Added 12/14/18:



Taking down the blue ceiling tiles from what was a kid's playroom:



The wall between the two rooms was in the wrong place, so my buddy Jeff (assigned as project manager) came up with a plan to move it and we made it happen:




The overhead beams are load bearing, so we had to leave one support post there for now. We'll be addressing that shortly:



The wall has been moved back now. There's some overhead ducting dictating how far we could go and still leave room for the relocation of the load bearing beams:



When I pulled up that section of carpet, the rubber backing stayed stuck to the floor and has to be scraped off by hand. Luckily it comes up pretty easily, so it's more time consuming than anything:



TV mockup just to try and get a sense of how big the TV will be at different distances. I was a little off - the TV is a bit bigger, so I'll have to fix that so I can use the handy-dandy Riser Height Calculator to get the second row riser correct:





De-paneling the walls:





Found a crack in the foundation that will need to be repaired...



...which apparently led to some rotten plywood. So this project now has more realized benefit than just entertainment:



De-plywooding:



Getting there...



And...a crack in the floor that will need repaired as well:



So that's the start! I'll be updating as the project goes on and I figure stuff out.
 
See less See more
17
#2 · (Edited)
Abandon stress all ye who enter here...



Found inside a wall - hopefully my theater isn't cursed because I'm building it on an old Indian Mouse Cemetary....



Prototyping an overhead speaker mount, trying to get the angle correct:



Mounted between the joists. The box is way bigger than it needs to be:



Mirage speakers are a unique design with "omnipolar" sound deflectors. The mounting angle needs to be correct in order for the sound to reach the MLP correctly. Side view without the speaker cover:



The ceiling is going to be painted black, so the end result I want is just the bubble of the speaker sticking unobtrusively down from the ceiling. I also need to drop the mount point down a little bit to account for the depth of the sheet rock and tweak one side of the mount vertically so when the speaker is turned on the mount to it's final position it's level with the sheet rock for aesthetics.

Side view with the speaker cover on:



Anchoring the two sections of wall together. We just moved it instead of rebuilding it. Whoever originally built it must have had a blind monkey doing the cutting on the 2x6s. We'll plumb the wall later.



We built the new Load Bearing Beam using three 2x10 with 1/2" plywood sandwiched between them. That's one solid beam!



We added 2x6s and sistered them to the existing joists to help transfer the load down to the new LBB:



Cutting shims for the LBB out of scrap:



Mockups for the electrician where I want power and cabling:







 
#3 · (Edited)
I decided to hook up all of my speakers at this point in time to figure out final positions. I also discovered I had two wires labeled the same so I fixed that. I brought in two of the seats so I could test the riser height as well as front to back seating positions.

I decided that I needed to raise the rear back surrounds a bit because they were being blocked by the rear seats. I've never had two rows before, so it's an interesting challenge figuring out where the speakers need to be to best cover both. I also decided to move the surround L/R speakers towards the rear just a little to provide better imaging to the rear row.



The overhead load bearing beam and support post will be removed as they have been relocated to the front wall. Ignore the small speakers above the L/R - they were temporary until I brought out the real L/R.

I am really happy overall at this point. Even with no carpet, room treatments, or finished walls, it's sounding really good after a little Audyssey magic.



I was way over-engineering the overhead mounting and went back to the drawing board. A single piece of wood to mount to is all that's needed. It'll be really easy to change the height and angle to get it exactly how I want it:



Here's the view from the server room side. All of the speaker wires have been been run and come out a nifty cable plate. This is obviously just all temporary. We will build an actual rack for everything to sit in. It'll be on the left where that monitor is, with the front displays facing the entry door. That'll allow easy access to the rear of the equipment:







AVR hookup goodness:



And for my own reference, the 4200 amp assign since I had a hard time figuring it out for some reason. Even though the 4200 is ONLY going to be driving the four overheads, I had to have a minimum number of speakers hooked up before Audyssey would run, which means I also had to drag out my old 2 channel amp so the L/R would actually work. Kind of a pain, but worth it in the end:



 
#4 · (Edited)
Update 7/14/18

Well, after a few months of zero progress, things started happening this week.

My parents came to visit, and my dad's been busting his ass working on the drywall for the theater room. It's finally coming together.




He also whipped up an equipment rack while I was working on finishing up the electrical that the electricians didn't come back to do.

I got all of my equipment put in day before yesterday, hooked most of it up, and did functional testing of the 7.0.0 bed layer. I pulled the speakers back down so he could keep working on the drywall.





Fun fact - the piece at the bottom of the rack is the very first Dolby Digital AVR I ever purchased back in '98...the Pioneer VSX-D906S. I still have the original box and manual. It's only purpose in life is to provide FM to the rest of the basement.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Subscribed. (fellow Oregonian here also with HT room currently torn down to studs... but no build thread yet)

Have you considered having the screen on the opposite wall so that you can put the projector in the equipment room behind port glass? If you’re doing a single bipolar side surround between the rows it looks like the doorway will not conflict.

Edit: I missed the part where you are planning to go with a TV. But maybe still not bad to consider in case you get the itch.
 
#10 ·
  • Updated the overview diagram to reflect the wall-to-wall riser.
  • Updated Post #2 with more pictures.

Have you considered having the screen on the opposite wall so that you can put the projector in the equipment room behind port glass?

That's a good thought and would have done that, but I've never met a projector I've liked yet. Granted, it's been a while since I've looked at projector offerings, so the tech and PQ has probably come a long way.

Also, my current status is unemployed, so my disposable income for new toys is non-existent. All of my current AV gear is paid for, so I'm just going to roll with what I have now. Mounting the TV on the server room wall will allow me to use a nice cheap certified HDMI cable.

While 17'7" seems like a lot, once you have everything setup, it will seem much smaller. If there is any way to move the wall further do it.

I noticed that! Unfortunately, due to overhead ducting hanging way down, I can't push the wall back any farther without the ducting being IN the theater room, which I don't want. Even if I painted it black, I would know it's there and see it. Thank you, OCD.

As it stands, you really don't have the room for the rear channels behind the riser and still allow for adequate separation of your height channels.

Well, that's the challenge I'm facing now. Even though there's two rows of seating, the front row is going to be the money row. The back row will be compromised sonically, but it's not going to suck...it just won't be optimal. I'm trying to figure out overhead positions now. There's incoming heat ducting on one side, and an air return on the other...right in the joist runs I wanted to use. So now I have to either move them out a run, or in a run. Neither are what I actually want, so I'm just trying to figure out where the next best locations will be.

your next biggest challenge will be making sure to have adequate HVAC into the space and especially the equipment room. This will alleviate any issues now and down the road as you upgrade the equipment and thus generate more heat driving those amps and subs (that you don't even know you will buy yet :smile:).

HVAC was here Friday morning and installed a vent in both rooms into the air return system. Both rooms have heat in with louvers I can shut. We also have a plan in place, if it becomes necessary, to add a fan in the server room and vent right out that outside wall. I think I'll be fine on that front.

electrical is next on the list. As the house is 1950's ish, one hopes that the wiring throughout has been updated including the panel.

It wasn't, but that's in progress right now. Well, 3 days a week anyway. The previous owners installed a new 200 amp panel, so I'm good to go there. However, the entire rest of the house is the old two wire...even though some of the receptacles have (non-working) grounds. The electricians tell me that when they are done, there won't be a single piece of original wiring in the house and everything will be properly grounded. I'm also having them add a whole house line conditioner at the panel. :cool:

So many things in this house are half-assed. For example, the doorbell button was physically broken, and instead of replacing it, they disconnected the wires at the bell. One of the front outside light fixtures was broken, so they took it off, capped the wires, and put it back up...

:confused:

Wouldn't want to just fix things properly or anything.

Finally, having lived in the northwest, you need to think about a vapor barrier for those concrete walls, as moisture is always an issue given how much it rains.

Hoping for many days of success on your build and seeing the end result.

I've lived in Oregon my whole life. I'm quite familiar with rain. :D Here in Baker City they apparently don't get much rain at all. Snow = water = the same issue though. We will be sealing the cracks properly, spray foaming around the windows to seal them better, adding weather stripping to the windows, and putting up 2" thick sheets of Dow foam board to insulate and seal the room.

Thanks for your thoughts!

So what is the plan for that support beam?

See Post #2

Why a hdtv when a projector and large image is a possibility?

I already own a 75" 4K HDR LCD that I'm quite happy with. It will be sufficiently big for this room.

I gather you are going to reclaim the ceiling height?

Yes. You probably noticed in this picture that they dropped the ceiling height a few inches. If you look along the back wall at the ceiling, you'll see a water pipe going to the outside wall to a hose bib (hookup valve). That pipe is the ENTIRE reason they dropped the ceiling. As it turns out, I had to replace the water heater, so I had the plumbers remove that pipe at the same time and redirect it out the back wall in the adjoining bathroom ceiling. We knocked down all of the ceiling hangers and can now sheet rock directly to the joists.

I'm almost more interested in what goes into the server room as the theater itself :) It does seem like an optimal location for the AV gear.

Well, along with all of my current AV gear, I also have a WWW/E-Mail/Plex media server that will be in that room along with my firewall box and cable modem. I'm having the electricians pull CAT 6 to all rooms as well, and the demarc will be in that room to my Gigabit switch.

Also curious to see what you choose for lighting controls.

I'm still working through the specifics in my head. I already have 4 Philips Hue bulbs that I'm going to put in overhead cans. The Hue Hub integrates with Amazon Alexa, and I've got it set to dim the bulbs when I start a movie.

I'm also thinking of building the riser with a lip so I can mount Alexa compatible strip lighting underneath for a cool glow effect. Something like these or these.

I'm also considering some of these hooked up to a smart switch, which works with my Harmony Ultimate.

There are so many options that I'm getting a little analysis paralysis. Oh my aching first world problems! :D
 
#6 ·
Fianlly you have a thread! Congrats :)

I will follow with great interest here :)

To bad you found some cracks, but better now than later. At least you know it will be good when your done ;)
 
  • Like
Reactions: stikle
#7 ·
Congrats on taking the plunge. Not knowing how much you are doing yourself or resesrched, a few things to consider as you move forward. While 17'7" seems like a lot, once you have everything setup, it will seem much smaller. If there is any way to move the wall further do it. As it stands, you really don't have the room for the rear channels behind the riser and still allow for adequate separation of your height channels. Aside from the usual soundproofing suggestions, your next biggest challenge will be making sure to have adequate HVAC into the space and especially the equipment room. This will alleviate any issues now and down the road as you upgrade the equipment and thus generate more heat driving those amps and subs (that you don't even know you will buy yet :smile:). While on the topic, electrical is next on the list. As the house is 1950's ish, one hopes that the wiring throughout has been updated including the panel. In looking back at my build (roughly the same dimensions as your room) I wish I had more dedicated circuits for the room. 3-4 30amp circuits along with a few more 20amp breakers would be ideal if possible. Current draw begins to become a factor as you upgrade and much easier now than later to run any wires. I would also recommend running conduit throughout the space for speaker wires, Ethernet, and HDMI. Finally, having lived in the northwest, you need to think about a vapor barrier for those concrete walls, as moisture is always an issue given how much it rains.

Hoping for many days of success on your build and seeing the end result.
 
#36 · (Edited)
I'm almost more interested in what goes into the server room as the theater itself :)
Never mind the Yoghurt behind the curtain!



:D

Ok, let's see here...equipment list. I can do that.

Video



Audio/Amplification



Speakers



Media Sources



Remote



Storage



A/V Cables etc.



Networking



Lighting


  • Philips Hue LED Smart Bulbs (overhead cans)
  • Red LED Strip lights (speakers)
  • LED Step Lights - WAY too bright. They were shining off of everything in the front of the room and were very distracting. I got some window tint from a windshield place and put two layers over each light to tone them down. MUCH better.

Miscellaneous


  • APC Rackmount Surge Protector/PDU
  • Various APC & CyberPower UPS with AVR
  • Whole house surge protection at the electrical panel
  • Amazon Echo Dot - voice control of lighting
  • Dedicated box running IPFire Firewall
  • I also have a Windows Server running Hyper-V providing domain duties as well as WWW & E-Mail
  • Mount-It! Floating Shelf for the center channel
  • Various brands of Alexa compatible smart plugs, whatever what was on sale. Controls step lights, speaker lights, marquee (outside the theater), and a cooling fan to blow across the AVRs
  • Hannspree 27" monitor outside displaying posters/trailers using the MoviePoster software running on a Z83-F Mini PC.

I think that's most of the gear in the server room.
 
#11 ·
Well, today I decided on placement for the overheads and ran wires to the locations. I also got the front wall speaker jacks all wired.

Then to top it off, I whipped out the spade bit and drilled holes through all of the joists from the far side of the basement where the Internet cable comes in and ran it properly. No more coax hanging down in the way.

Maybe tomorrow I'll take a stab at figuring out where the all of the bed layer speakers will go and run wire to there. Maybe I'll work on the overhead mounting box prototype more and downsize it as well.

Baby steps...

@BIGmouthinDC
Hey Jeff - I have a question for you regarding my riser. According to my calculations, it's going to be a foot high. There's going to be a subwoofer at the back of the room on the riser. Do you have any recommendation on the INSIDE of the riser? For some reason I have a feeling leaving it hollow is going to create a problem of some kind. Should I fill it with something? Fiberglass? Sand? Concrete? Spray foam? Titanium? The front row is going to be directly on the floor (low pile carpet with padding). Thanks for your thoughts.
 
#15 · (Edited)



Updated Post #3 (should have reserved more spots)

I'm not sure if you took care of your crack yet
No, we haven't actually worked on the crack yet, although we have the materials on-hand to do it ("moose juice", a binding agent and hydraulic cement). I'm confident these will rectify the situation.
 
#14 ·
I'm looking forward to follow the progress here.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Big milestone today-


  • Built a new support post for the load bearing beam that continues outside the room
  • Took out the old support post
  • Cut out the old load bearing beam

Now I just need to:


  • Clean up the beam cut inside the room so it won't get in the way of the sheet rock
  • Finish removing the concrete footer for the old support post
  • Move all speakers and furniture out so we can have room to cut and mount the Dow board insulation
  • Get and mount insulation strips so the windows actually seal when closed

Going to the carpet store tomorrow to look at samples since they have a President's Day sale going on. I think I'm going to have carpet on the walls as well, partway up. Then I'll have black velvet the rest of the way to the ceiling around the room. The ceiling will be painted with Rosco Supersaturated Black Velour. I'm undecided what I'm going to do with the front wall at this point. I might just paint it black also since I'll have plenty. I can always go back and put more velvet up to the screen if that looks better.

Good times ahead!
 
#20 ·
@Nalleh

Ok, I finally made time to go through hundreds of pictures of the project and pick out the good ones. There were a few that I missed early on, so these will be mostly (sorta) in chronological order.

First up, I cleaned the crack in the wall out really good and then we filled it with hydraulic cement:







I brought in the furniture and temporarily hung the speakers so I could get a sense of the height they would need to be at:



Then up went the 2” Dow Board insulation:





Don’t mess with the Project Manager…



…or his muscle…



There was a concrete footer for the support post anchoring the wall we moved. It had to be chipped out and then filled in so the floor was level:





Then up went the nailers for the sheetrock:



The Quality Assurance Team was on-site making sure everything was in order:



I can’t remember if I was holding up the insulation or “supervising”:



Finally we started getting the ceiling up:





My dad helping put the walls up:



The front wall of the theater:



And then the mudding began…the never ending mudding…



 
#21 · (Edited)
Finally the drywall was done!



Well, until I found a crack in the ceiling. Working long hours can lead to mistakes. The seam was completely missed by the tape. Oops.



So I wet the whole thing down and carefully peeled the tape up and then wet more down and removed the dried mud over to the seam:



There wasn’t any more standard tape left, so I picked up some fiberglass tape, which worked quite well and was nice and strong:



And then more mud. Yay!



After sanding…what seam? :)



I was a little off with my exploratory hole for the speaker location. Oops.



I can fix that!





I neglected to get a picture of the finished patch, but it can’t be seen.

And then I fell off a 2 foot step ladder, tripped on a pallet while trying to recover, and flew across the room into a wall (no damage) and landed on the concrete. That sucked and hurt for weeks.

Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content


I spent many hours sanding to perfection. I’ve never done drywall work before and may have gone a little too far. At least I was wearing a mask at first…but neglected the face shield:



Ok, that’s better:



My dad was just a little too short to reach where he wanted without being on a ladder, so we rednecked up some lifters:



There’s a thread on AVS discussing black paint with several recommendations from people. I went with Rosco Super Saturated Black Velour at $70/Gallon. It needs to be diluted at LEAST 1:1 with water, so you end up with more for the money. And boy, is it BLACK. It just sucks up the light.



I painted the inside of the theater door with it. It’s glossy here, but when it dries…



Putting down gray primer:



And then the black:





After a long day of work, I was getting a little punchy. Note how smooth the roller is – I should have changed that out several times:



My manly nephew-in-law helping me put the TV on the wall. He could have almost lifted it himself. Showoff.



Notice the ceiling from back here. There’s an awful distracting glare. It turns out that when I was painting the ceiling, the roller got really matted down so the paint was going on unevenly. I rectified that with a new roller and going over it again.



Here’s a cool free floating mount for the center channel:





And a nice convenient place to put an Echo Dot that’s out of sight:



I sprayed the heater vent and air return vents a flat black and in the dark (or the light for that matter) you can’t really tell they’re not the same paint as the ceiling:



 
#22 ·
@Marc Alexander

And now for the overhead speaker mounts. I wired for and bought the extra two speakers to have 6 overhead Atmos/DTS:X speakers. The mounts are designed to screw directly to a wall, but I had a different plan. My initial prototyping was going down the wrong track. My PM came up with a better idea…



I missed getting a picture of the completed mount, but in the picture above you can see the two holes for the screws for the mount point. It’s just a board cut at an angle that screws to the base and then the speaker mount screws to THAT and hangs through the hole:



I cut and edged each speaker hole so there was a nice clean edge which was then taped and mudded:



For the next piece of the puzzle, I ordered some raw speaker grill cloth and speaker grill frame. I custom cut each one, glued them together, and then wrapped the grill cloth around and hot glued it to the frame:





This stuff was pretty hard to cut so looked a little raggedy, but for my purpose it was fine. I also glued rare earth magnets to the corners to stick to the L brackets that the mounts sit on top of:









And now for the final piece of my master custom speaker plan:

Sections of LED lights and wires:





Soldered together oh-so-carefully:



And then carefully hot glued inside of the speaker grills:



Voila’!



(Pre-ceiling repaint):





These are all wired together and then plugged into an Alexa Smart Plug. “Alexa, turn on the theater” turns the can lights on (Philips Hue), all of the speaker lights, the step lights, the marquee outside, and the TV bias lights. “Alexa, movie time” turns off the can lights and the speaker lights.
 
#23 ·
This is out of order, but here’s some riser pics.

I just stacked up some wood to try and get a sense of height for the rear row:



I used a bunch of free pallets to build up the risers and save on lumber:



That is one seriously twisted 2x6 at the top. It caused me a bunch of issues later on. I should have tossed it or exchanged it. One of the MANY things I learned on this project:









I built this subfloor on top of the pallets to get it to the height I wanted. Total brain fart…why didn’t I just use another layer of pallets? Geez.





Don’t forget this piece, Dad!



Yeah…I’m not sure what happened here, but I obviously wasn’t careful enough building the subfloor.



Well, I can fix that too:



Whew…FINALLY! The step lights are wired together and plug into a smart plug as well:



Ready for carpet! There’s an old piece of carpet on the concrete for now:

 
#24 ·
The last piece of the room is the wall coverings. I’m having custom floor to ceiling curtains made out of red velvet:



And to hang them, curtain rods made out of PVC. I did some YouTubing and found several ways of doing it. The method I ended up using has a little more elegant result than just using 90 degree sections for the corners.

I stuck a length of PVC through my vice and capped the bottom end:



Then I boiled hot water on the stove and poured it into the other end, filling it up. Then I capped the other end, and tied off the PVC to the bench, exerting some pressure so it would bend:



The PVC heated up and got soft enough to bend. As it became more pliable, I increased the tension on the rope to increase the bend:



I let it sit until the water and PVC cooled off. Then the PVC hardened again and retained the bend. It took 5 or 6 heating/cooling cycles before it got the right bend to make the corner of the room:



I made two sections like this, and then just used eye bolts that I heated, bent and opened up, and sprayed black to make hangers. I had to make mounts for them as where the hangers needed to go there was no support behind the sheetrock for the bolts to screw into:



In retrospect, I shouldn't have wasted the time and materials to paint the rods black. I was trying to be thorough, but they got all scraped up and...will be covered by curtains ANYWAY!

I put the two corner pieces up, measured and cut the back piece to go between them and joined them with some threaded PVC couplers that fit inside the pipe for a nice smooth transition. Then I did the same thing up to the front of each side of the room. Once the curtains are complete I just pull the sections of PVC apart, slide the curtains on and done!

Here’s a random picture of the front speaker connectors I am using. Positive, negative, and subwoofer. They work quite well:



And the first movie in the (almost) finished Seth-o-Plex!



(RIP, Hans Rickman…er….Alan Gruber)

Skip forward a couple months and I finally decided on a carpet, which was installed the day before Thanksgiving!



More on that in a minute…
 
#25 ·
The carpet installer left around 8PM the day before thanksgiving, and I had family coming in town the next day for the holiday. I wanted to impress them so I busted my butt getting all of the furniture and floor speakers back in and functional.

Once the holiday was over and I was alone in the house again, I went back into the theater to start doing some finish work. I was down on my knees screwing the cover plates onto the step lights when I noticed something. And then something else. And…and…

I’ll let my E-Mail to the manager of the carpet store explain the rest…

(Just to be clear, I didn't paint the entire rear 2/3 of the room because the walls will be covered with curtains, so no point wasting the money.)

[redacted]-

The E-Mail is regarding the carpet install performed by [redacted] and how he butchered the install AND the room.

I realize and appreciate that you worked to make the install happen before Thanksgiving, and my family and I enjoyed movie time. However…

I spent months drywalling, sanding, and painting my theater room to get it as perfect as possible. To say I am disappointed and upset right now is an understatement.

First, here is the view from the front of the room. Note all of the visible seams:



Secondly, there is carpet missing from more than a few places:









Third, not only is this patch job just head shaking, but he hit TWO of the step lights and dinged them up:





Fourth, my paint. This was a special order super black paint that cost $70/gallon.

I spent a lot of time painting the front 1/3 of the room with it so there was zero light reflectivity.

Not only does it need repainted now, but he beat the crap out of the sheetrock so that has to be fixed as well:





















If this would have been paint instead of primer, it would be really messed up as well.



And then there’s this…it appears that he actually broke a drywall seam:



Fifth, there is a large wrinkle in the doorway and the metal trim piece looks well beaten:



I’m not sure if it’s a trick of the light, or if the carpet was laid so the grain was wrong, but the whole floor piece looks like a completely different color. It shows up in the picture more than in person, but I still wanted to mention it:



Lastly, if you’ll recall when you were here you asked why I didn’t paint the whole room and I told you there was going to be floor to ceiling curtains. I did paint around the base of the back/side walls all the way around so if any was showing beneath the curtains all that would be seen is black. Well, that all has to be painted again as well. I mentioned that to [redacted] and he just said that it was because the carpet was so stiff and couldn’t really be helped. I’ve never heard of painting a new room after the carpet goes down.



I believe all of this was caused by a single inexperienced installer on the job.

I will leave everything as-is until you can get here to see the results for yourself.
So yeah...I can't even. :eek::mad:
 
#26 ·
Awsome progress man :) Very creative mounting of your ceiling speakers, and cool with the lighting ;)

Holy moly that carpet guy did a ****ty job!! So irritating when you hire «experts» for a job and this is the result! Hope you get it fixed....
 
#28 ·
Monday came and went and no visit, no call. Crappiest customer service ever.

My Project Manager called them at noon-thirty today. Low and behold I started getting callbacks and the two owners, carpet installer, senior installer, and the carpet rep are all supposed to be on their way over today shortly.
 
#32 ·
So how did it go? :confused:
 
#30 ·
To quote Luke Skywalker:

Amazing. Every word of what you just said...is wrong.

I'm not sure why you assumed any of that. I don't even have one 8500.

I have an AVR-X6200W, an AVR-X4200W, and an Onkyo stereo amplifier. The 6200 I bought on clearance at an excellent price, the 4200 I bought used off eBay, and the Onkyo I bought from Crutchfield.

I'm not rich, I just made some very smart purchases.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top