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post #1 of 30 Old 03-14-2018, 06:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Home Theater for Two

After reading AVS for so many years, it's finally my turn! I think my original account was registered back to 2007 or so, but got deleted when the forum switched software. Anyways, wife and I just moved into a new house and I finally get my "dedicated" room. I say "dedicated" because it's currently my office (work remote), but I'll be shoving myself into the closet for this to happen.

WAF isn't really any issue. She really doesn't care what I do, because she knows I'm pickier than she is when it comes to how something looks. All of my stuff was in our living room at the old house and she just thought it was ridiculous, but didn't mind it. The big kicker is we are still renting the house. We can buy it if we want to, but for now we are just renting it. So no IB setups quite yet. However, that's not going to stop me from running wires through the attic and crawl space to get what I need, where I need it. Im also going to be treating the front wall and plugging a window, but that will just be another fake wall that sits in front of the drywall. Accoustic Panels will also be hung... I can fill holes like a champ if it comes to it.

Current Equipment
Emotiva UMC200
Emotiva UPA500
Berhinger iNuke 3000
DIY Sound Group Fusion Alchemy MTM x3
DIY Sound Group Volt-6 x2
Stereo Integrity 18" HT Subwoofer (was in a mini marty, but will be building a new enclosure)
Sony VPL-HW40ES Projector
Blackout cloth 112" Screen (will be replaced for AT)
Raspberry PI HASS.io automation System
Plex Server (currently also my Gaming PC)


Short Term Purchases / Upgrades
Lots of network, speaker, and HDMI cables.
DIY AT screen, 120"-ish in size (looking for suggestions, Spandex?)
New Subwoofer Enclosure to go behind the fake wall
Rack for Equipment (rails are purchased, just need to build the box)
Standalone Home Server for Plex and other
????

Longer-Term Purchases / Upgrades
MiniDSP for room Correction
2 smaller subwoofers under the rear speakers tuned for bidbass, thinking the 12" Infinity.


We are shopping for new living room furniture currently so for now, I'll use that and then get the real chairs in the future. The servers and audio equipment will be placed in our master bedroom closet (other side of the wall behind my office chair) and ran through the crawl space/attic.

Room Dimensions
Width: 118"
Depth: 136" (+ ~3ft, see pictures)
Height: 108"

The Basic Layout






Last edited by alinkous; 03-14-2018 at 06:59 PM.
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post #2 of 30 Old 03-15-2018, 02:21 AM
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I would suggest centering the sofa in the room as you really don't want your head dead center due to acoustic nulls that will be there. Your wife will probably be happier not sitting that close to the surround speaker either. Speaking of which move the surround speakers a bit higher and further back to reduce hot spotting.

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post #3 of 30 Old 03-15-2018, 03:49 AM
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Nice "Pocket-Sized" Theater concept.

The only weak area is the HW40ES, as relates to the well advised Spandex screen. At a minimal 12' throw for a 120" screen, 14 fls is about all you can expect of a White over Black application.

Short of going high dollar with V6 material, Spandex is your best bet considering how close in you'll be viewing. It has virtually no "screen surface" presence at all.

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post #4 of 30 Old 03-15-2018, 08:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Nice "Pocket-Sized" Theater concept.

The only weak area is the HW40ES, as relates to the well advised Spandex screen. At a minimal 12' throw for a 120" screen, 14 fls is about all you can expect of a White over Black application.

Short of going high dollar with V6 material, Spandex is your best bet considering how close in you'll be viewing. It has virtually no "screen surface" presence at all.


Would you happen to know how that compares to blackout cloth? That’s what we had in the old house and the room was not light controlled. I was happy with that picture overall.
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post #5 of 30 Old 03-15-2018, 09:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mashie Saldana View Post
I would suggest centering the sofa in the room as you really don't want your head dead center due to acoustic nulls that will be there. Your wife will probably be happier not sitting that close to the surround speaker either. Speaking of which move the surround speakers a bit higher and further back to reduce hot spotting.

I can do both of those, but my concern was the walk way between the chairs and the speaker. If I remade the enclosures, I could mount them higher I suppose. Right now their cherry veneered curved enclosures that built for them vs the slanted design.
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post #6 of 30 Old 03-15-2018, 09:09 AM
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You don't really need slanted, we are talking about a foot higher and a foot further back.

But yes if you can make them really shallow it would help.

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post #7 of 30 Old 03-15-2018, 09:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mashie Saldana View Post
You don't really need slanted, we are talking about a foot higher and a foot further back.

But yes if you can make them really shallow it would help.
I'll see what I can come up with for a shallow but tall design. Here are the two build threads for the speakers if anyone is interested. Not sure why only the first few photos show up on the volt 6s though?

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...rs-center.html
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-volt-6-s.html

I'll clean up the moving boxes and cables I have strewn about and post photos of the room later.
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post #8 of 30 Old 03-15-2018, 03:55 PM - Thread Starter
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As far as room acoustics go, I've seen a lot more rooms lately with scatter/deflection/whatever at the first reflection point instead of absorption. Is this the new SOP or should I still plan on absorption at those points? Im assuming its more of a per room type of thing. I have a dayton mic and it's calibration file + REW that I can run, but not sure what measurements you guys would want or if I should worry about that after I treat the front wall.

Also, here are photos of the room as it stands today:

Standing in the door from the living room and a picture of one of the fronts and one of the rears:





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post #9 of 30 Old 03-15-2018, 04:39 PM
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Small rooms: more sense using absorption. Bigger rooms, minimum 4 feet from diffusors to people, try a mix.

For example, Courtesy of Anthony Grimani:

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post #10 of 30 Old 03-16-2018, 12:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Small Update:

Tried to see how much room I could save my making new enclosures for the rears and get them to not protrude into the room as much... Can't really save much, MAYBE 1.5". Now thinking I can just move the volt 6's to the front and use them as Heights and buy some in wall speakers and make shallow boxes for them for the rear. Any suggestions? Also means another amp to power them, or a bigger amp for the LCRs.

Also realized that the front wall was waaaay to overbuilt. So slimmed that down to just two uprights and a top/bottom + middle support for the screen to hang on. I also realized that I completely forgot to account for the one air vent in the ceiling, so the wall got bumped out about 6 inches to clear that. We don't have AC (thanks PNW), so it's not like it's going to help in the summer. Winter months might get chilly, but not bad with an oil heater.

Updated Plans:

Added the window that will get plugged, moved chairs to middle, moved rears to front height, added projector.



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post #11 of 30 Old 03-19-2018, 07:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Small update, did some more reading and decided to just stick with 5.1 instead of 7.1 Front Heights. I'll remake the volt6s with angled cabinets and will place them in some shallow columns. I'm fine with just mounting boxes just to the wall itself, but this way it provides an easy way to hide the wire going up, and I can fill it with some insulation.. figure it can't hurt. Also, Trying to nail down the new sub enclosure. Going with a full marty variant.

When I call up an HVAC place for linacoustic, are there any specifics I need to ask to get the right stuff? Im sure they will look at me funny, but I think next weekend I'd like to get started on the front wall. Most places will sell the stuff to just regular people, right?
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post #12 of 30 Old 03-25-2018, 06:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Actual Progress!

Built the rack and wired it all up. The 3 cords at the bottom will attach to my gaming PC Which will just sit on the floor next to the rack and then will run through the wall to the my "office". Still waiting on the USB Hub then I'll start hacking up my desk.




  • Furman Power Center
  • Emotva UMC-200 (Pre-Amp)
  • Emotiva UPA-500 (L,C,R, SR,SL)
  • Behringer iNuke 3000 (Subwoofer Amp - Upgraded to Noctua Fans)
  • HTPC
    • AMD 6300 3.5GHZ
    • Noctua NH-L9x65 Cooler
    • Gigabyte GA-970A-D3P ATX Mobo
    • Crucial Ballistix 8gb Ram
    • Samsung 850 Evo 250GB SSD
    • Seagate 1TB 7200RPM HDD
    • Asus GTX970 STRIX GPU
    • Silverstone GD10B HTPC Case
    • Corsair RMx 550 80+ Gold PSU
    • LG WH1NS40 Blu-Ray Drive
    • Windows 10
    • Asus - PCE-N10 802.11b/g/n Wireless Card
    • 120mm Noctua Fans x 3
  • Netgear Nighthawk R8500 802.11 AC Router
  • Philips Hue Bridge
  • Raspberry Pi 3 (Home Automation)
    • Hassbian
    • Aoetec Zwave USB stick
  • Modem
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post #13 of 30 Old 03-26-2018, 02:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Anyone have any good thoughts on temporary plugging a window? I want to put some insulation behind a black painted plywood and seal it up before linacoustic goes up. Should I be worried about condensation or mildew? My window casing is ~6 inches deep from the trim to the window.
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post #14 of 30 Old 03-29-2018, 09:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Placed my order for 9 4" 703 Panels. I can't source linacoustic locally so I'm looking at this for my front and side wall treatments. Im assuming this front wall arrangement will better than nothing at all. I plan to fill the columns with some sort of insulation as well and maybe stick some behind the corner traps too. Thoughts?


After the room is "done", I'll play with building some diffusion panels and try swapping around the side panels.
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post #15 of 30 Old 03-29-2018, 09:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Past few days, I've also made some progress on running all the speaker & Sub wires and moving the coax from the room to the closet. Only one mishap... make sure you don't cheap out on the stud finder :/ Also, Maverick really wanted to help run wires under the house.

Rack (before rails and equipment was installed)


Maverick wanting to help


Stud finder said it was clear, hit punched through both sides and was clear. Wasn't Clear.


Exit Behind the Rack.


I haven't ran the projector HDMI yet as I haven't decided exactly where Im going to mount it. I have a mount, but not the biggest fan of it Any suggestions on a ceiling mount? Maybe I can rig up something with some pipe and the existing mount?
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post #16 of 30 Old 04-09-2018, 09:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Side Wall Absorption Panels, Complete-ish

Materials:
8 x 8'x4.5"x.5" Pre-Primed MDF Baseboards (Home Depot)
4 x 2'x4'x4" OC 703 Fiberglas
1 x 40"x36' Vigoro Weed Blocking Fabric
Staples
Glue
Scrap Wood

Step 1: Convert half of your Garage to a Shop (Still a long ways to go). Then spend exuberant amounts of money on 4" 703.







Step 2: Measure Everything 7 times.
I messed up and somehow cut my 4' sections ~2" too long, which made my cross pieces too short to span the 24" width. So I ran the 703 through the table Saw (2 passes to get the full height)



Step 3: Glue it up

Glued it all up and then put in 3 brads per joint and through in the clamps for about an hour or two.



Step 4: Make a french Cleat to go behind the fiberlgas. Have a beer and clean the fiberglass up

I Forgot to take a picture of a the french cleat. It's just 3/4" MDF ripped at a 45*. Used 3/4" So that it took it was proud the remaining .5" in the MDF boards by .25 and that is level with the scrap plywood strips you'll see later.

Step 5: Layout the weed blocking cloth



Step 6: Have another Mishap.

So my staples were going straight through the material and werent holding for ****. So take everything off the table and run a piece of .25" plywood through the table say making a bunch of strips.



Step 7: Wrap the frames up and sandwich the fabric under the wooden Strips + Add Bottom support and French Cleat

The trick here is to do a good enough job that you're happy, but not so good that your wife wont do the wrapping of the expensive fabric when it gets here.



Step 8: Done.




Once I decide what color fabric Im going with for the room, I'll then just wrap that over top of the blocker fabric.
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post #17 of 30 Old 04-09-2018, 09:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Next Step is to order a bunch of OSB to cover one wall in the garage so I can start unpacking the rest of my tools and give them a place to hang. This will make the wife happy. Then is to put some furring strips up on the front wall of the theater and mount some OSB there to cover up the window and add more mass and give me something to mount the remaining 5 panels to.
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post #18 of 30 Old 04-10-2018, 08:51 PM - Thread Starter
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One of the many joys of working from home is that I can tinker while I sit on conference calls. So today I figured out how I could modify my old wall mount into a ceiling mount for the projector. Got really lucky and had a joist dead center of the door that goes into the closet (my office).



I'll run the HDMI and power tomorrow. I picked up a 1.5" grommet like you'd use for a desk this afternoon that will make the hole a bit nicer. Also got to test where the false wall will be located. Turns out Im going to have the exact same size screen (112") as the last house, but sit ~4' closer. Which means I can just take the black out cloth off this frame and just wrap it in spandex.



This is me sitting in the MLP.



And this just the screen leaning up against the window (vertical) and "making sure all my cable runs worked "
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post #19 of 30 Old 04-27-2018, 09:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Mini Update:

Been working on trying to get a hum out of my speakers. See thread for more info. No Success yet. That got me pretty bummed so I slacked off for about a week or so and got my desk in the closet finished.





Tonight I painted the back side of the OSB that will be mounted in front of the window. Also painted the 2x4s for the false wall. After that, I mounted 2 2x4s to the wall to space out the OSB over the window trim. Tomorrow I'll hang the OSB and mount the remaining 4" Insulation to it.



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post #20 of 30 Old 04-28-2018, 04:47 AM
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Black paintwork in the garage is an AVSForum signature
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Home Theatre Heaven in Spain - V2.0 - Build thread
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post #21 of 30 Old 04-28-2018, 06:04 AM
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You don't want that av rack to be pushed right up against the wall, as that will trap heat in the top of the rack.

I'd add a spacer so the rack can't be pushed up tight against the wall, or add some holes up top, or even a fan,
to exhaust heat. Is there also any way for cooler air to enter at the bottom of the av rack? Perhaps a 1U or 2U
vent panel?
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post #22 of 30 Old 04-28-2018, 11:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
You don't want that av rack to be pushed right up against the wall, as that will trap heat in the top of the rack.



I'd add a spacer so the rack can't be pushed up tight against the wall, or add some holes up top, or even a fan,

to exhaust heat. Is there also any way for cooler air to enter at the bottom of the av rack? Perhaps a 1U or 2U

vent panel?


Ah, yes. I have the rack loaded up and it is actually is about 2” - 3” or so from the wall so the cables aren’t kinked. I’ve been watching the temps on the HTPC that’s mounted in it and haven’t seen any reason to be concerned yet. Our clothes are nice and warm in the mornings though
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post #23 of 30 Old 04-28-2018, 11:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Picture of rack. Monitor is probably just going to be temporary while I tune the system from the rack vs being in the room with the projector on. Also waiting on an IR repeater cable to just plug directly into the UMC200 from the Harmony Hub. It's the only thing that is IR in the rack, so direct connection ftw!

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post #24 of 30 Old 04-28-2018, 05:32 PM - Thread Starter
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More Progress made today.

After I hung the runners on the wall (previous post), I stapled on some automotive weather seal material. It was cheap and figured it might cut down on any wood on wood squeaking. Then I hung the OSB with SPAX screws. Black side faces the window for the neighbors viewing pleasure. I then caulked the seams as I left a small gap between each board so they wouldnt squeak if they moved/rattled. Then I mounted some small strips that will hold the weed blocker fabric (same stuff I have on my side panels).






Then I just placed the insulation on the strips and folded the fabric up and over, anchoring it at the top same as below.



All Done.



Not the prettiest Front Wall ever posted to the site, but it'll all get hidden and does the job. Can definitely hear a big difference from before. Wife even approved of the sound!

Lastly, threw together the false wall. Made it slightly less than the width and height of the room, lined the top header with some felt strips, made some DIY leveling feet out of T-Nuts and Carriage bolts. Tightened the feet up and it presses against the ceiling so there is no damage to the carpet or the ceiling (minus a small nick that I made raising the wall up).

Also got word that my chairs came in, Octane Turbos, and are ready for me at Best Buy. If it stops raining, I may go pick those up tonight.
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post #25 of 30 Old 04-29-2018, 11:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Oops. I didn't post the actual false wall in my last post and I picked up the chairs last night from Best Buy. My roll of white and Black Spandex can be see in the background for the screen. Which will be the next thing to tackle. I need to modify the frame a bit to make it slightly smaller. The image is about .5" short on all sides





Gonna have to tint or disconnect the bottom LEDs on the chairs... just too dang bright, but I wouldn't mind having the cup holders lit up during a movie.
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post #26 of 30 Old 04-30-2018, 09:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Got a late start yesterday so not a whole lot of work. I did go ahead and mount the screen with the blackout material still on it just to get the height dialed in and tighten everything on the projector itself. Watched our usual Sunday shows (Homeland, Westworld, & Billions) with the old screen last night and it's a really big screen to viewing distance ratio lol. The audio was definitely muffled so that's just motivation to get the screen material swapped. Photos are taken directly from behind the chair head rests.

Total Distance from screen to headrest: ~7ft with a 112" screen



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post #27 of 30 Old 05-04-2018, 10:44 AM
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i have somwhat the same room dimensions 3.2m by 3.8m so looking at this thread with a very keen eye. Great job so far
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post #28 of 30 Old 05-04-2018, 11:14 AM
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I like small room builds, and this one is no exception! Good problem solving and process so far. I'm glad you are considering going with in-walls for the side surrounds, since they'll look a lot better than the (otherwise very nice) large speakers sticking out. Small rooms need as much streamlining as possible.

My thoughts on in-walls tend towards the... "economical". I was planning to go with Monoprice surrounds and ceilings for my build for a long time. I still stand by this in most situations with a budget. Then I decided to go with the DIYSG HTM-12 for my LCR speakers, and convinced myself that I could build in-wall Volt-6 enclosures for my surrounds and ceiling speakers. I think these will be better than the Monoprice solution, without a doubt... I just don't know if the difference will be noticeable for most material. Anyway, in your situation I'd definitely check out the Monoprice offerings, because they'll likely get the job done for you, and save a bunch of money.
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post #29 of 30 Old 05-09-2018, 11:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OJ Bartley View Post
I like small room builds, and this one is no exception! Good problem solving and process so far. I'm glad you are considering going with in-walls for the side surrounds, since they'll look a lot better than the (otherwise very nice) large speakers sticking out. Small rooms need as much streamlining as possible.

My thoughts on in-walls tend towards the... "economical". I was planning to go with Monoprice surrounds and ceilings for my build for a long time. I still stand by this in most situations with a budget. Then I decided to go with the DIYSG HTM-12 for my LCR speakers, and convinced myself that I could build in-wall Volt-6 enclosures for my surrounds and ceiling speakers. I think these will be better than the Monoprice solution, without a doubt... I just don't know if the difference will be noticeable for most material. Anyway, in your situation I'd definitely check out the Monoprice offerings, because they'll likely get the job done for you, and save a bunch of money.
I'm actually not going with in-walls. I can't cut massive holes in the walls, because rental. Screw holes are easy to touch up and the speaker patch panels I can just run a coax line to and nobody is the wiser. The holes in the ceiling for the projector are going to be the toughest to deal with, but I might just put a cover over it. Of course, if we decide to buy the house, then it wont matter.

So to get around the large holes issue, I was thinking of doing in-walls inside of some shallow columns. However by the time I spec'd out various in-wall speakers and the volume needed for them, I wasn't saving that much room over just making custom boxes for my volt-6s.

As far as progress, I hung the screen. Enough said lol. I missed my projector. I haven't replaced the screen material yet so the sound is pretty muffled right now. I ordered a new incra miter gauge for my table saw as mine got bent in the move. It showed up today so I'll be making some progress this weekend on the columns and rear speakers.

I am also thinking of making the screen a little smaller. 112" this close is amazing, but it is a little exhausting for longer viewings. It should also tighten up the picture a bit too by making the pixels smaller.
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post #30 of 30 Old 05-18-2018, 04:32 AM
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Originally Posted by alinkous View Post
I'm actually not going with in-walls. I can't cut massive holes in the walls, because rental. Screw holes are easy to touch up and the speaker patch panels I can just run a coax line to and nobody is the wiser. The holes in the ceiling for the projector are going to be the toughest to deal with, but I might just put a cover over it. Of course, if we decide to buy the house, then it wont matter.

So to get around the large holes issue, I was thinking of doing in-walls inside of some shallow columns. However by the time I spec'd out various in-wall speakers and the volume needed for them, I wasn't saving that much room over just making custom boxes for my volt-6s.

As far as progress, I hung the screen. Enough said lol. I missed my projector. I haven't replaced the screen material yet so the sound is pretty muffled right now. I ordered a new incra miter gauge for my table saw as mine got bent in the move. It showed up today so I'll be making some progress this weekend on the columns and rear speakers.

I am also thinking of making the screen a little smaller. 112" this close is amazing, but it is a little exhausting for longer viewings. It should also tighten up the picture a bit too by making the pixels smaller.
sorry to hijack
i was wondering how is it possible to install in wall speakers into solid walls? u need to carve out a large hole? or do u ask the contractor to build a false wall?

sorry am new to this!
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