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post #1 of 312 Old 04-08-2018, 05:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Mahuzz Theatre with enough bass even eng-399 approves

I have been lurking around this forum for a while and have finally decided to start my theatre thread.

I am finishing my whole basement myself so it will not be a speedy build but I would like to thank you for your input and patience.

Construction in the basement started in 2016 when my wife and I decide that this will be our forever home. We could do anything until we had to remove a support pole to another location to give us an extra 5’ in width in the theatre and drop all of our duct work to reconfigure it so we wouldn’t have the under humps under the support beams, picture will follow.

As for the design of the theatre it is not dedicated but will have everything a dedicated HT has except for a door to separate it from the rest of the house. The size of the HT will be 17x21x7’6”, plus I will have 2’ behind the screen for the speakers. Seating will be 10’ from the screen with 4 front seats, a 12’ riser with another 4 seats and sit up bar with 4-5 seats.

I would like to thank a few members already for help and input @eng-399 @hd0823 and @Jk7.2

Equipment:

Projector JVC 420 - have
Screen AT size 115”w 16x9 and 130”w CinemaScope DIY masking
Screen make - undecided
Pre-pro undecided
Amp Emotiva XPA-11 - have
OPPO 203 - have
PS4- have
Sub Amps 4 inuke 6000
LCRs QSC SC-2150 - have
Surrounds HTM-8
Atmos Volt 8
Subs 8 UM18-22 - have
All subs DIY and designs from eng-399
4 13cf ported up front
2 10cf ported nearfield behind second row
2 10-12cf ported back wall

As per sound proofing, I have found out through this forum it’s all or nothing. Since this is not a dedicated theatre I will be doing the minimum to reduce some sound transfer upstairs but with this amount of bass it won’t matter lol. I will be doing acoustic treatments with fabric walls. Will need some help with this for sure.

I hope you will enjoy this build as much as I am for my first HT.



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post #2 of 312 Old 04-08-2018, 05:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Mahuzz Theatre with enough bass even eng-399 approves

I don’t have any fancy software for the sketch of the room so here is a basic layout and there has been a few changes, like there will be rough in for 6 atmos and also have wides. It doesn’t show the nearfield behind the second row or the back subs
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post #3 of 312 Old 04-08-2018, 05:56 PM - Thread Starter
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post #4 of 312 Old 04-08-2018, 05:56 PM - Thread Starter
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post #5 of 312 Old 04-08-2018, 05:57 PM
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Mahuzz Theatre with enough bass even eng-399 approves

So cool to see you’re off to a great start! Subbed for sure and glad to help answer any questions you may have, with my limited experience admittedly. Lol. You’re in for a great ride my friend. Also super happy to see some multiple large ported enclosures for subs planned.
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post #6 of 312 Old 04-08-2018, 06:01 PM
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Can't wait to see this all finished it's going to look and sound great . There's going to be a lot of firepower in that room

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post #7 of 312 Old 04-08-2018, 06:05 PM
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post #8 of 312 Old 04-08-2018, 06:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys I will be definitely leaning on you all throughout this ride


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post #9 of 312 Old 04-08-2018, 06:22 PM - Thread Starter
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As I said before we started with removing a pole and moving it over 5’ here a couple pictures this was in November 2016 this all started
Ya I know all these seats with a 50’ screen lol. This is the pole we moved and also one of 2 humps in the duct work me removed

We moved it to this intersection of the 2 beams which was 5’ over


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post #10 of 312 Old 04-08-2018, 06:32 PM - Thread Starter
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You will see in this picture on the floor the different colour in the concrete that’s where the pole was and now it’s over to the right

Here are the 2 humps that will be removed
You can see the main air ducts are now running between the 2 support beams which will be the walkway into the theatre. Moving them over in that space opened up the ceiling in the front and back part on the theatre.


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post #11 of 312 Old 04-09-2018, 05:03 AM
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So you were able to move the post without adding more support steel? Or you did and I just can’t see it in the pics? Great open space you have now. I’m jealous you have a clean slate. Sometimes I want to gut everything and just start fresh.
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post #12 of 312 Old 04-09-2018, 07:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jk7.2 View Post
So you were able to move the post without adding more support steel? Or you did and I just can’t see it in the pics? Great open space you have now. I’m jealous you have a clean slate. Sometimes I want to gut everything and just start fresh.


In this picture you can see in the beam to the left there is bolts and black steel that was put on both side running the whole length of the that beam, so it’s like an I-beam inside and I-beam. Increases the the strength from and 8” to a 12” beam.

You will see in pictures to come I don’t have a clean slate, my garage is full and you just don’t see the STUFF in those pictures, 25 years of accumulation.


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post #13 of 312 Old 04-09-2018, 10:01 AM
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post #14 of 312 Old 04-09-2018, 10:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Mahuzz Theatre with enough bass even eng-399 approves

We decided to do some modifications to our stairs to make it way easier to bring anything downstairs especially drywall
To this

The result is was awesome and wow does it make a big difference, opens it right up.




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post #15 of 312 Old 04-09-2018, 02:10 PM
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We decided to do some modifications to our stairs to make it way easier to bring anything downstairs especially drywall
To this

The result is was awesome and wow does it make a big difference, opens it right up.




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I deffinetly like the curved radius on the staircase it looks awesome.

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post #16 of 312 Old 04-09-2018, 02:11 PM - Thread Starter
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We put down dricore in the whole basement but we had to do half and then frame all the walls for that section of the basement them move all the stuff to the finished area so we could continue. Yes some pics of this process.

Coming down the stairs this is the hallway to the bathroom

This is looking down the hallway/entrance to theatre. Looking at the back wall of the theatre. The riser has a 6” step the another 6” step going left to where the second row seats and the back bar will be. Had to do it like this because of the beam right at the first step and I didn’t want people hitting their heads. The 4’ walkway goes to the back wall to the AV rack which will be to the right.

This is looking into the fireplace/sitting room next to the theatre. There is no door and there is a opening you can see, this is to allow heat from the fireplace to take the chill out of the basement. It was also a compromise with my wife, “if you want a theatre I don’t want it as a room in the basement, it has to an open concept”. I was like if that’s all in need to do to have a theatre np consider it done. I might make treated inserts for the 2 opening but I will do it after it’s done and see how it sounds with out it.


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post #17 of 312 Old 04-09-2018, 02:13 PM - Thread Starter
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I deffinetly like the curved radius on the staircase it looks awesome.

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Thanks, we just carried down today a 12’ sheet of drywall and it went down np with a little bend but it went.


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post #18 of 312 Old 04-09-2018, 02:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Mahuzz Theatre with enough bass even eng-399 approves

I do have a couple of questions, the first is if you use your riser as a bass trap have you tried both ways using it as a trap and sealing it up to see if there is an actual difference.
The second is to do with the picture below, I have a support pole in the left hand corner behind the screen should I box it in or put insulation around it and use it as a corner bass trap. Fluffy pink or Roxul which would be the better choice and why.



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post #19 of 312 Old 04-10-2018, 07:32 AM - Thread Starter
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As I said before this started a while ago about 8 month ago (construction that is) and decide to start a thread on my build so if you are wondering how did I get this much done well this is why.

So all the electrical is done, insulation of the whole basement is about 90% completed. Side note I didn’t have to pay for any of the insulation so I save a ton of money, no I didn’t steal it. I build pre-engineered steel buildings and they order way to much insulation for the job and we got to take what ever we needed

This is just a small amount of what I had, not as easy to work with as the standard bat insul but I like free. I had about 6 more rolls of 125’ x 4’ x 3” for the walls and 8 rolls of 25’ x 4’ x 8” for the ceiling in the garage.

I put the 4” roxul up against the floor and then filled the cavity with fluff.
Front wall behind the screen

Right side wall with a window I wanted to frame over but wasn’t allowed so I will need some help later on when I get to that point of the wall treatment stage.



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post #20 of 312 Old 04-10-2018, 07:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Can someone let me know how you can post a video that you have on your phone through Tapatalk


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post #21 of 312 Old 04-10-2018, 03:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Mahuzz Theatre with enough bass even eng-399 approves

Even though we have the dricore down we decided to put 3/8 plywood down to stiffen it up a bit. We are also putting hardwood in most of the basement so this will help hold better when driving the nails in.
As you can see the speaker wire is in place for the front speakers.


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post #22 of 312 Old 04-10-2018, 04:46 PM
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Right side wall with a window I wanted to frame over but wasn’t allowed so I will need some help later on when I get to that point of the wall treatment stage.



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I suggest covering this window rather permanently. I had two very small windows in my basement theater and covering them was an important part of the theater atmosphere while watching movies. Car lights passing by, noise, and of course daylight has to be kept out. Just a suggestion.
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I suggest covering this window rather permanently. I had two very small windows in my basement theater and covering them was an important part of the theater atmosphere while watching movies. Car lights passing by, noise, and of course daylight has to be kept out. Just a suggestion.
I think it's a waf thing if I recall if so I would recommend doing a friction fit panel flush so it looks just like the wall

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post #24 of 312 Old 04-10-2018, 05:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Mahuzz Theatre with enough bass even eng-399 approves

Thanks for both of your suggestions.

I would like to put black velvet up the side to maybe the window but how do you transition that to the fabric that will be around the rest of the room? Should I put a column there and make the column apart of the window too but be able to just remove the top part of the column/insert. Then I can maybe put a future wide speaker in there since I pre-wired for that.


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post #25 of 312 Old 04-14-2018, 06:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Not much of an update but we have started drywall, woo hoo, only about 200 sheets to bring down them put up. I have never used a drywall lift before but I used it for the first time and I will never go back, best invention ever. We are starting in the bathroom and working our way into the rest of the basement doing the ceiling first then walls.
This was our first sheet in the bathroom

This is the front half of the theatre, 4 pot light opening and the squares are the 2 from atmos for the volt 8s. I will be doing 2 layers of 5/8 in the theatre area only.
Decided to box in the duct work with plywood first since the framers (me) didn’t do a good job in the proper spacing for the 4’ or 8’ spacing for the drywall.


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post #26 of 312 Old 04-14-2018, 06:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Mahuzz Theatre with enough bass even eng-399 approves

Here a preview of what is on the menu in the next few weeks.
I got these a while ago and Mike @eng-399 is in the process of the mdf cut list for my very first diy sub build. I will be building 2 of my rear subs, they will be 10cf each tuned to 17hrz, Mike correct me if I am wrong. My question regarding the placement of the subs, they will be inside the wall about 7” and the balance which is 7” will be sticking out of the wall, how should I frame around the sub in the wall. Should I build a cut out and push it up to the insulation, do I have to put anything like plywood or drywall behind the sub against the insulation? I need every inch possible in depth. I could treat it like I would be building a front baffle wall?
Just to let you know there will be fabric and sound absorption going over the sub cabinet. I believe the size of the cabinet is 30”w x 55”h x 14”d for reference.


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post #27 of 312 Old 04-14-2018, 07:36 AM
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I would drywall the back side where these are sliding in and have something like a 2/2 or 1 by 2 nailed to the side of the 2/4 so the drywall can be screwed into that so your room is sealed up.

All your boxes will be different shapes like a rectangle to a square but the internal cubic ft and tune are all the same so they all will have the same response. I’m done with your boxes behind your screen and still working on the change you talked about a few days ago on your rear subs. The Nearfield subs will be next as soon as you give me the space you have to work with. I’ll post up everything soon.
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post #28 of 312 Old 04-14-2018, 08:34 AM - Thread Starter
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I would drywall the back side where these are sliding in and have something like a 2/2 or 1 by 2 nailed to the side of the 2/4 so the drywall can be screwed into that so your room is sealed up.

All your boxes will be different shapes like a rectangle to a square but the internal cubic ft and tune are all the same so they all will have the same response. I’m done with your boxes behind your screen and still working on the change you talked about a few days ago on your rear subs. The Nearfield subs will be next as soon as you give me the space you have to work with. I’ll post up everything soon.


Thanks Mike I will make sure I do that for sure, never thought about sealing up the room part.


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post #29 of 312 Old 04-14-2018, 09:10 AM
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We decided to do some modifications to our stairs to make it way easier to bring anything downstairs especially drywall

The result is was awesome and wow does it make a big difference, opens it right up.
Hate to be negative here, but the stair modification looks to me to be a very significant trip hazard. Anyone taking the shortcut around the curve is in for an unexpected drop. I would hate for you to learn the hard way when some unsuspecting guest takes a bad fall. We all take stairs for granted so much that we don't think about it which is why it's not the best place to get creative. Maybe a railing and newel post there when you are done transporting drywall?

I say this knowing I don't have much room to be critical. My own basement stairs are like something from the dark ages leading steeply down to the dungeon, but my excuse is someone else put them in years before I owned the house. My 100 year old house didn't have a basement when it was built so the stairs were crammed into the pantry closet which makes them extremely steep and the ceiling is too low. I have had friends at various times slip off the edge of a tread or hit their heads on the low ceiling. As a result I am probably more aware than most of the hazards of poorly designed stairs.
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post #30 of 312 Old 04-14-2018, 03:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Hate to be negative here, but the stair modification looks to me to be a very significant trip hazard. Anyone taking the shortcut around the curve is in for an unexpected drop. I would hate for you to learn the hard way when some unsuspecting guest takes a bad fall. We all take stairs for granted so much that we don't think about it which is why it's not the best place to get creative. Maybe a railing and newel post there when you are done transporting drywall?



I say this knowing I don't have much room to be critical. My own basement stairs are like something from the dark ages leading steeply down to the dungeon, but my excuse is someone else put them in years before I owned the house. My 100 year old house didn't have a basement when it was built so the stairs were crammed into the pantry closet which makes them extremely steep and the ceiling is too low. I have had friends at various times slip off the edge of a tread or hit their heads on the low ceiling. As a result I am probably more aware than most of the hazards of poorly designed stairs.


Hey that’s a good catch/observation for sure. My wife was the first one to say something about that, we have planned when completed to have something there like a plant or anything that will cause people to follow the stairs and not cut the corner.


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