Ashton Cove Theater Build - Page 17 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #481 of 748 Old 03-16-2019, 02:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is a time lapse that captures the order of operations for how I’ve been wrapping these panels:



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post #482 of 748 Old 03-16-2019, 05:04 PM
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Nice truck!
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post #483 of 748 Old 03-16-2019, 07:38 PM
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That video of the margarita machine is epic! That thing looks just kicka$$!!
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post #484 of 748 Old 03-16-2019, 08:12 PM
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Your theater is going to look gorgeous when complete, very nice. Will you have any velvet up front?
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post #485 of 748 Old 03-17-2019, 12:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Your theater is going to look gorgeous when complete, very nice. Will you have any velvet up front?


Thank you, Steve! Yes, I plan on having black velvet surrounding the screen. I’m unsure which particular velvet material at this point. I think I’ve seen triple black velvet used on a lot of projects?


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post #486 of 748 Old 03-17-2019, 12:26 AM - Thread Starter
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3/16/19 Full Speed ahead!

Today has been a crazy productive day for theater activities. In total I’ve wrapped 9 panels today. Whew...

I’m not totally sure that I like how the entrance switch covers turned out, but for now, they will suffice. Up close, you can see a few staples and loose fabric. I think I know what I need to do to fix it, but am going to sleep on it before messing anything up.














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post #487 of 748 Old 03-17-2019, 05:03 AM
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Quick question....s, what did you use to render your designs? Sketchup? Is Vray required?
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post #488 of 748 Old 03-17-2019, 09:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Quick question....s, what did you use to render your designs? Sketchup? Is Vray required?


Hey there,
@Silva741 designed the room for me, and I am not sure what software program he used. You might could reach out to him and check.


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post #489 of 748 Old 03-17-2019, 06:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Ashton Cove Theater Build

3/17/19 Acoustic Fabric Wrapping Complete

Yesterday afternoon as I was working, I told myself that would finish the fabric this weekend, and I’ve done it! 45,000 staples later, I have finished wrapping all 28 panels.

I am so incredibly happy with how this room looks. The two trickiest parts for me were the rear bar with the surface mount outlets and the switch cut-outs near the entrance door. I would like to make the switch cut-outs look better, but I’m drawing blanks with my creativity at the moment. I’m probably gonna leave it the way it is unless I have a light bulb moment. The rear bar surface mounts I am extremely happy with - I think they look super sharp.

The GOM fabric I used was extremely forgiving, and and very easy to work with. I would highly recommend it.

If anyone is considering a stapling task even half of this magnitude, please do yourself a favor and purchase the porter cable pneumatic stapler; holy crap that thing is a work horse!! On the topic of the stapler, you must treat it like a weapon, seriously. Don’t point it at anything you wouldn’t want to harm, because it will shoot the staples regardless of whether you have it pressed up against a surface or not. I might have had one or a dozen safety moments with it. Wear eye protection.

Technically speaking, I still need to build and wrap frames for the door, atmos speakers, and subwoofer enclosures under the rear counter, but that will come at a later time.

It’s time to build some speakers.






















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post #490 of 748 Old 03-17-2019, 07:09 PM
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Nice work. It looks amazing.
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post #491 of 748 Old 03-17-2019, 09:21 PM
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Loving it! Looks so nice man.

On the switches near the entry door - would it be possible to extend the box or use an adjustable depth box instead, and build the fabric frame so it exactly fits the 3 gang opening? Then the switches and wallplate would sit flush on the fabric surface so it looks like the fabric wall is the real wall.

Adjustable depth 3 gang box: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-3...9ADJ/202664439

And here is a pic from another build (here is the post with more pics) showing how one might use the adjustable depth box with the fabric frame to give a flush appearance:



Similarly with the thermostat - if there is enough slack in the wire, I would look at surface-mounting the thermostat onto the false fabric wall rather than mounting it to the drywall behind and doing a cutout.

For the thermostat you might have to build a solid section into the frame - similar to the picture below - so you have something to mount the thermostat to.



And here is the thread that second pic came from.

The adjustable depth box is how I plan on attacking the switches and outlets in my room - in my case a 2-gang box at the entry and 1-gang everywhere else - going for a flush appearance.
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post #492 of 748 Old 03-18-2019, 04:22 AM
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Looking good Aaron! I agree with James about the possibility of surface mounting the thermostat and switches if it's not too late. No rush though, speakers are more important.
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post #493 of 748 Old 03-18-2019, 06:48 AM
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Yes they are!

Sony XBR65x900e / STR-DN1080 / original PS4 / WOW! Ultra TV / Quantum Access Mini PC Stick w/Windows 10 / 8 x Rockville SPG88 8“ DJ PA Speakers / Dayton Audio SA1000 / Kicker 08S15L74 in a Tapped-Tapered Quarter Wave Tube (negative flare tapped horn).
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post #494 of 748 Old 03-18-2019, 06:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James92TSi View Post
Loving it! Looks so nice man.



On the switches near the entry door - would it be possible to extend the box or use an adjustable depth box instead, and build the fabric frame so it exactly fits the 3 gang opening? Then the switches and wallplate would sit flush on the fabric surface so it looks like the fabric wall is the real wall.



Adjustable depth 3 gang box: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-3...9ADJ/202664439



And here is a pic from another build (here is the post with more pics) showing how one might use the adjustable depth box with the fabric frame to give a flush appearance:







Similarly with the thermostat - if there is enough slack in the wire, I would look at surface-mounting the thermostat onto the false fabric wall rather than mounting it to the drywall behind and doing a cutout.



For the thermostat you might have to build a solid section into the frame - similar to the picture below - so you have something to mount the thermostat to.







And here is the thread that second pic came from.



The adjustable depth box is how I plan on attacking the switches and outlets in my room - in my case a 2-gang box at the entry and 1-gang everywhere else - going for a flush appearance.


I like the idea you’ve proposed here, and now that I’ve had some time to stare at this on my wall, I think it would be worth the time to re-do.

However, I might not have to redo... I plan on using Phillips hue switches, which actually cover up the existing switch plate and hold via magnets. I wonder if I could just build a thicker switch plate cover and and mount the Phillips hue switches to that? I could mount it right on top of the hole that we are looking at.

Does that makes sense what I’m trying to describe?

And for the thermostat, I know there is extra slack in the wall where I could pull it out further and install flush to the panel.


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post #495 of 748 Old 03-18-2019, 07:10 AM
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I like the idea you’ve proposed here, and now that I’ve had some time to stare at this on my wall, I think it would be worth the time to re-do.

However, I might not have to redo... I plan on using Phillips hue switches, which actually cover up the existing switch plate and hold via magnets. I wonder if I could just build a thicker switch plate cover and and mount the Phillips hue switches to that? I could mount it right on top of the hole that we are looking at.

Does that makes sense what I’m trying to describe?

And for the thermostat, I know there is extra slack in the wall where I could pull it out further and install flush to the panel.


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Sort of makes sense. You'd need some kind of non-flammable box extender if you intend to keep the 3-gang box that is mounted flush to the drywall. Personally I would remove that existing 3-gang box and replace with an adjustable-depth box. Then perhaps the larger cover plate of the hue switches (or even some other kind of trim ring you might fabricate that stacks behind the cover plate? thinking ABS sheet like a car stereo trim ring?) would cover the cutout in the fabric frame and make it look flush.

Agree with the others that it shouldn't hold you up from building those speakers - priorities!
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post #496 of 748 Old 03-19-2019, 09:47 AM - Thread Starter
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3/19/19 Speakers!

Yesterday I bought 14 clamps from harbor freight. Yes, 14 clamps, and I’m happy I did because I ended up needing all of them it seemed.

I started with the Titans as the flat packs seemed stupid simple, and they truly are. While the glue was drying last night, I started on volt 8 atmos flat packs, which were also stupid simple. I discovered a road block that I’m going to have to work around, and that is the volt 8 flat packs are in fact 10.5” x 10.5” instead of 10” as they are published on the DIYSG website. So I’m going to have to build my own boxes instead of using the flat packs (not a huge deal). I should get that done this evening easily.

I woke up early this morning un-clamp the first Titan and got the next one glued and clamped to dry while I am at work today. I will start on Titan #3 tonight and maybe tomorrow I will begin on the HT 8 surround flat packs!

I’m very happy I went with the flat packs, because seriously, they are extremely easy to work with, and save a lot of time on the table saw.












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post #497 of 748 Old 03-19-2019, 09:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Ashton Cove Theater Build

Duplicate post.

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post #498 of 748 Old 03-19-2019, 09:55 AM
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3/19/19 Speakers!

Yesterday I bought 14 clamps from harbor freight. Yes, 14 clamps, and I’m happy I did because I ended up needing all of them it seemed.

I started with the Titans as the flat packs seemed stupid simple, and they truly are. While the glue was drying last night, I started on volt 8 atmos flat packs, which were also stupid simple. I discovered a road block that I’m going to have to work around, and that is the volt 8 flat packs are in fact 10.5” x 10.5” instead of 10” as they are published on the DIYSG website. So I’m going to have to build my own boxes instead of using the flat packs (not a huge deal). I should get that done this evening easily.

I woke up early this morning un-clamp the first Titan and got the next one glued and clamped to dry while I am at work today. I will start on Titan #3 tonight and maybe tomorrow I will begin on the HT 8 surround flat packs!

I’m very happy I went with the flat packs, because seriously, they are extremely easy to work with, and save a lot of time on the table saw.

Aaron H.

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I’ve been wondering if you had a job outside the theatre build due to the speed at which you are doing everything




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post #499 of 748 Old 03-19-2019, 09:57 AM - Thread Starter
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I’ve been wondering if you had a job outside the theatre build due to the speed at which you are doing everything




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I sacrifice my social life and sleep for the theater!! I don’t have enough $$ not to work


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post #500 of 748 Old 03-19-2019, 10:00 AM
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OH NOES!!!! You fell into the "there aren't enough clamps in the world" trap!!!!! This is *exactly* why I tried to get you to start on your glue-ups while you were making panels, so you don't lose DAYS to watching glue dry.

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post #501 of 748 Old 03-19-2019, 10:34 AM - Thread Starter
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OH NOES!!!! You fell into the "there aren't enough clamps in the world" trap!!!!! This is *exactly* why I tried to get you to start on your glue-ups while you were making panels, so you don't lose DAYS to watching glue dry.





Dang it, Doug, dang it!! You were right. I was intimidated by the speakers and didn’t want to open a can of worms that I couldn’t handle, but the reality is that the DIYSG speakers are grade school easy....

The volt boxes will keep me busy for a little while, since I’ve got to build custom-sized enclosures.


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post #502 of 748 Old 03-19-2019, 12:28 PM
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very nice stuff!! keep it up!

Everything happens for a reason.
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Dang it, Doug, dang it!! You were right. I was intimidated by the speakers and didn’t want to open a can of worms that I couldn’t handle, but the reality is that the DIYSG speakers are grade school easy....

The volt boxes will keep me busy for a little while, since I’ve got to build custom-sized enclosures.


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Does that mean you'll just trim down the front facing panel provided by DIYSG, cut custom depth 4 sides (top, left, right, bottom), and then cut down the DIYSG back piece? Or will it be even more custom than that?
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post #504 of 748 Old 03-19-2019, 04:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Does that mean you'll just trim down the front facing panel provided by DIYSG, cut custom depth 4 sides (top, left, right, bottom), and then cut down the DIYSG back piece? Or will it be even more custom than that?


Yes, I’m going to trim the front baffles down, throw out the back pieces, and trim down the sides. I’ve got a spare 2’ x 4’ sheet of 1/2” maple that I can use for the back pieces. It shouldn’t be that big of a deal. I’ll share the results shortly. Getting all of the flat packs out to the garage for trimming.


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post #505 of 748 Old 03-19-2019, 04:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Okie doke. Only took about 25 minutes. All 4 volt flat packs cut down to 9 3/4”. Easy peezy.

Third titan is glued and clamped.






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post #506 of 748 Old 03-19-2019, 07:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Very successful evening. Volts are finished, the last titan is drying, and I was able to start on the first HT-8. I stole 4 clamps from the titan, which it had already been drying for 3 hours at that point so I don’t think it was a big deal.

I’m gonna wake up early tomorrow and try to get the other three HT-8’s glued and clamped so they can be drying while I’m at work. Yeehaw.














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post #507 of 748 Old 03-20-2019, 05:25 AM
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Dang it, Doug, dang it!! You were right. I was intimidated by the speakers and didn’t want to open a can of worms that I couldn’t handle, but the reality is that the DIYSG speakers are grade school easy....

The volt boxes will keep me busy for a little while, since I’ve got to build custom-sized enclosures.
Lol, if it helps, I didn't WANT to be right! I've played the "waiting for glue to dry" agony game before and wanted to share the secrets to reduce the misery for you!

On a less happy note: Did you ask Erich about the impact of cutting down the boxes? I'd guess that he'll tell you a change that small is your call, but the box sizes are carefully measured to tune the entire speaker to a certain range. You'd likely to lose low end that you were likely to "crossover-away" to the subs anyway, but just to be safe you may want to reach out...
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post #508 of 748 Old 03-20-2019, 06:28 AM
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Yesterday I bought 14 clamps from harbor freight. Yes, 14 clamps, and I’m happy I did because I ended up needing all of them it seemed.
Lol you can never have too many....

I've got quite a few HF clamps and for what they cost they're pretty good. I have some of those aluminum bar clamps like you bought as well. One thing I've done that really improved their performance is to infill the bar with a piece of wood - just cut a piece as long as the clamp then fit it to slide up in there. Really increases their stiffness and thus their clamping power.

I would also add that the best thing in HF is their 3/4" heavy duty pipe clamps. They have some with feet and some without - but they are every bit as nice (at $6 each) as the Bessey version (at $20)
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post #509 of 748 Old 03-20-2019, 03:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Lol, if it helps, I didn't WANT to be right! I've played the "waiting for glue to dry" agony game before and wanted to share the secrets to reduce the misery for you!



On a less happy note: Did you ask Erich about the impact of cutting down the boxes? I'd guess that he'll tell you a change that small is your call, but the box sizes are carefully measured to tune the entire speaker to a certain range. You'd likely to lose low end that you were likely to "crossover-away" to the subs anyway, but just to be safe you may want to reach out...


Luckily I’ve had work to do in-between drying so it hasn’t been that big of a deal.

I did ask Erich and he said it would be alright. I’m not sure exactly how many square inches I lost in the reduction, but he said it wouldn’t be an issue.


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post #510 of 748 Old 03-20-2019, 03:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Lol you can never have too many....



I've got quite a few HF clamps and for what they cost they're pretty good. I have some of those aluminum bar clamps like you bought as well. One thing I've done that really improved their performance is to infill the bar with a piece of wood - just cut a piece as long as the clamp then fit it to slide up in there. Really increases their stiffness and thus their clamping power.



I would also add that the best thing in HF is their 3/4" heavy duty pipe clamps. They have some with feet and some without - but they are every bit as nice (at $6 each) as the Bessey version (at $20)


That’s a good idea to add stiffness to the aluminum bar clamps. I might just do that before clamping the mini Marty subs.


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