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post #1 of 748 Old 06-17-2018, 08:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Ashton Cove Theater Build

Short intro
After a years worth of planning and preparing, my wife and I are fixing to begin building our first home together. My dream has always been to have a dedicated home theater space, and I am fortunate enough to say that it will soon be a reality. The name for the theater is your typical neighborhood inspired theme. While this will be a dedicated theater space for movie watching, it will also serve as a sporting event watch party space, and party space for when my friends & family come over for game nights.

Space
The room will be 17'2" x 25'2" x 9'7" after acoustic wall treatments. There will be no windows, and we will have a dedicated A/V closet for equipment.

Design
The goal was to achieve a simplistic, modern look that also had a classy feel to it. The wife I both enjoy grays, blacks, and whites, which we were able to incorporate pretty well I think.



Specs
I will update this list as items are bought or decisions are made. I haven't worried too much yet about the technology and gadgets as I've been focused on the critical elements - that is design, construction, sound isolation, power, and HVAC.

  • Room Dimensions: 17'2" x 25'2" x 9'7"
  • HVAC: dedicated two-zone unit for theater & A/V closet (ducted for room & cassette for closet)
  • Power: (5) 20 amp circuits for A/V closet (2) 20 amp circuits for riser (1) 20 amp for lighting
  • Sound Isolation: 5/8" Double Drywall w/GG, hat & clip channel, pink fluffy all around, solid core door w/sealing, backer boxes for all exterior shell penetrations, putty pads for outlets, no windows, and thermoflex duct for HVAC.
  • Screen: 165" Seymour Center Stage XD 2:35:1
  • Speakers:
    Mains - DIYSG Titan XL
    Surrounds - DISYG HT8's
    Atmos - DIYSG Volt 8's
    Subwoofers - X6 UM18-22's
  • Electronics: Denon X6500H receiver
  • A/V Rack: Navepoint 42U Open concept rack (DIY sides, top, and door)
  • Projector: JVC RS1000
  • Lighting: Phillips HUE for all lighting - ceiling & floor strip lighting, and can lights
  • Control: TBD
  • Seating: HTDesign Belmont (8)
  • Acoustic Treatments: OC 703 treatments on wall.
  • Paint: Pattern matched paint to match darker & lighter fabric panels
  • Carpet: Kane Lighthouse Carpet

Updated: 2/19/19

Index of build posts
To be populated

Kudos
I want to thank @Silva421 for helping me with the designing of this room. He is an amazing person to work with, and adds value in many more ways than just rendering graphics.

I also want to thank @BIGmouthinDC for the guidance & coaching thus far on noise isolation & theater construction.
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post #2 of 748 Old 06-17-2018, 09:54 PM
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Plans look beautiful.

Looking forward to watching it develop.

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post #3 of 748 Old 06-18-2018, 05:42 AM
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Looks great.

But if you are keeping an eye on costs, why six 20A circuits??
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post #4 of 748 Old 06-18-2018, 06:49 AM - Thread Starter
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The cost of having six 20 amp circuits dedicated to the space seemed negligible in the grand scheme. Power is one thing that I wanted to over-calculate on, just to be safe. Our builder had no issues with it as we had plenty of headroom for the extra circuits.

Also, keeping an eye on costs only means that I want to track all of the money I’ll soon be hemorrhaging


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post #5 of 748 Old 06-18-2018, 12:56 PM
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I look forward to seeing how things go. My build is very similar in size, just slightly smaller (26x17x9 before walls and treatment).

Two things stand out to me in your opening post:
1) I found that a single door is always going to have a lower STC than your double drywall / GG / clips. The only doors that can hit the STC of DD/GG/clips will run you thousands of dollars, have double or triple seals, and weigh several hundred pounds. Personally I couldn't stomach the idea that I spent all the money for soundproofing and will have a door that lets some sound in and out, and I couldn't stomach the idea of a $3k door, so I went with communicating doors. Both will have automatic door bottoms, be solid core, have rubber seals all the way around, etc. The inner frame is decoupled from the outer frame too.

2) Screen size. I found that by going big on the screen, I needed a lot of gain if I had any chance of hitting 30fL required for HDR. I compromised and went with a 1.3 gain microperf (fairly expensive, even in the "big picture") and I will couple it with a custom curve to make HDR display more like SDR. Unless you are using a large venue projector or a high brightness home projector (like the $50k Sony), you aren't going to be able to use a DIY or cheap brand screen on that size of screen as none are over 1.0 gain. If all you want to watch is SDR 1080p content, it's not a big deal, you can get to 12-15fL with most projectors on that size of screen, which is bright enough in a light controlled room. But if you want HDR, don't assume you can just buy a screen and run a sub $10k projector.
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post #6 of 748 Old 06-18-2018, 06:13 PM
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Subscribing with interest as we are getting ready to build our new home and will finally be able to do a dedicated theater - we have very similar taste in the aesthetics, desired screen size/AR, and HUE (hue's been working out great in our current kitchen and a few other areas). Thinking of a more family friendly front row (something like this:

)

We are probably 18-20 mo from move-in so not worrying about components yet. Any chance you might be able to share your spreadsheet?

Looking forward to seeing this one take shape...
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post #7 of 748 Old 06-18-2018, 06:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkersten View Post
I look forward to seeing how things go. My build is very similar in size, just slightly smaller (26x17x9 before walls and treatment).

Two things stand out to me in your opening post:
1) I found that a single door is always going to have a lower STC than your double drywall / GG / clips. The only doors that can hit the STC of DD/GG/clips will run you thousands of dollars, have double or triple seals, and weigh several hundred pounds. Personally I couldn't stomach the idea that I spent all the money for soundproofing and will have a door that lets some sound in and out, and I couldn't stomach the idea of a $3k door, so I went with communicating doors. Both will have automatic door bottoms, be solid core, have rubber seals all the way around, etc. The inner frame is decoupled from the outer frame too.

2) Screen size. I found that by going big on the screen, I needed a lot of gain if I had any chance of hitting 30fL required for HDR. I compromised and went with a 1.3 gain microperf (fairly expensive, even in the "big picture") and I will couple it with a custom curve to make HDR display more like SDR. Unless you are using a large venue projector or a high brightness home projector (like the $50k Sony), you aren't going to be able to use a DIY or cheap brand screen on that size of screen as none are over 1.0 gain. If all you want to watch is SDR 1080p content, it's not a big deal, you can get to 12-15fL with most projectors on that size of screen, which is bright enough in a light controlled room. But if you want HDR, don't assume you can just buy a screen and run a sub $10k projector.
I've been watching your thread for a while now and have been enjoying it! Yes, our spaces are very similar in size.

1) I was contemplating a communicating door design; however, that was a no from a WAF perspective... The current door I have slated for the space is a normal solid core door. It's possible that I could upgrade this, or figure out how to add to it, to inrease the STC.

2) This is interesting, and honestly something that I haven't spent much time investigating. The screen I've been passively looking at uses the Seymour Center Stage XD Acoustical Transparent Material, which is labeled to have 1.2 gain. I definitely am not planning on spending north of $10k on the projector, and assumed that I could find a 4k projector that would be able to handle that image size @ 4k without breaking the bank??
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post #8 of 748 Old 06-18-2018, 07:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pesos View Post
Subscribing with interest as we are getting ready to build our new home and will finally be able to do a dedicated theater - we have very similar taste in the aesthetics, desired screen size/AR, and HUE (hue's been working out great in our current kitchen and a few other areas). Thinking of a more family friendly front row (something like this:

)

We are probably 18-20 mo from move-in so not worrying about components yet. Any chance you might be able to share your spreadsheet?

Looking forward to seeing this one take shape...
Yes I'm more than happy to share my budget with you. It's obviously a work in progress, and could drastically change between now and end of build.
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post #9 of 748 Old 06-19-2018, 10:35 AM
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Looks like it will be a very nice room.

Mine is a lot smaller but doing greys and black too.
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post #10 of 748 Old 06-19-2018, 06:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Picked up 3,000 ft of CAT6A & 1,500 ft of 12AWG CL2 wire from Monoprice. These mark the official beginning of my spending for this project. (CAT6A is technically for the whole house & extra for spare).




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post #11 of 748 Old 06-20-2018, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oklahomie View Post
Picked up 3,000 ft of CAT6A & 1,500 ft of 12AWG CL2 wire from Monoprice. These mark the official beginning of my spending for this project. (CAT6A is technically for the whole house & extra for spare).




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That’s a lot.
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post #12 of 748 Old 06-20-2018, 08:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Ashton Cove Theater Build

Design Plans

I had initially thought that I would enlist the help of a professional designer for this space, but after being presented with cost estimates, I decided that I would try and come up with the designs myself.

The room originally was going to be 16x23x9’, but I knew that would not be sufficient for what I had in mind. I also originally thought that I could squeeze in 3 rows of seating, but quickly found out that was not going to be feasible. I had the space on our plan increased to 18x26x10, and decreased my seating expectations to two rows. I have planned for 4 seats on the first row and 5 for the second.

I was going to place a bar in the back, but Instead went with a rear counter-top so that I could have subwoofers concealed under usable counter space.

The space behind the false wall will be 27” in depth (decreased from 36”) - which should allow for appropriate breathing room between the speakers & screen.

The hardest challenge with this room was trying to design a comfortable entrance. There is really only one door location option. I tried flipping the orientation of the room 180 degrees where the screen is closest to the door, but that would make accessing the a/v closet inconvenient, and would make having a false wall difficult. The other challenge with the entrance was dealing with the riser; initially I had played with an idea of having steps outside of the theater leading up to the door, and the entire rear portion of the theater being elevated, but @BIGmouthinDC pointed out a building code flaw that my builder didn’t actually think about until I mentioned what @BIGmouthinDC had said... I then played with many different step ideas inside of the room, and landed on current plan where you step up 7” into the room, and the 2nd row chairs are +7” with the front row at ground level.

I still need to hammer out what my door solution is going to be, as @dkersten suggested I do more than what I currently have slated.














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post #13 of 748 Old 06-20-2018, 09:36 PM
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Are you building up the floor for sound reasons?

Are you doing an AT screen?
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post #14 of 748 Old 06-21-2018, 12:06 AM
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Looks like your gear closet would work great as an infinite baffle room for your subs

Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pesos View Post
Are you building up the floor for sound reasons?



Are you doing an AT screen?

I’m building up the floor primarily for comfortable viewing angle reasons. Going with a 10’ ceiling made this very doable without impacting the perceived spaciousness in the rear.

Yes I am planning on placing an AT screen on the false wall so that the speakers can be hidden without sounding muffled. Speaking of the false wall, I need to get that figured out. I am going to use BIGs simple design.

For the screen, I’ve been looking at the 160” 2:35:1 AT model from Jamestown Home Theater Screen. It uses the Seymour Center Stage XD material.



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I worked out the false wall design. I’m going to keep it simple. I’ll use 1x3” primed finger joined pine per BIG’s suggestion. T-frame the two center vertical columns and call it a day.



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Ashton Cove Theater Build

Construction has begun! Yesterday, I asked for my builder to purchase the “special” theater supplies, as we have been calling them... so far this what I have:

• 900 feet of 7/8 25 gauge hat channel
• 290 genie clips
• 4 pails of GG
• 4 tubes of GG
• 2 cases of acoustic sealant
• GG caulking guns
• mortised ADB
• 25 ft of PDS rubber for door seal
• 20 putty pads
• 30 LB right angle genie clips
• 300 sq ft of RST02 Genie Mat





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post #18 of 748 Old 07-11-2018, 11:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Received most of the theater supplies minus the channeling. Man these GG pails are heavy!


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You have a lot of work a head of you. Good luck.

Klipsch KPS-400’s FR/FL with built in 15” 300 watt side firing subs, RC-7 Center, RS-3 Surrounds.
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Indeed! The physical work will begin soon, which I’m the most excited about. 100 degree summer days will be tough, but I’ll survive.


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post #21 of 748 Old 07-12-2018, 03:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Channeling arrived today. Unfortunately, some of it was more bent and skewed than I would have expected. I got in touch with Eric from isostore and he promptly responded with replacement channeling that will ship tomorrow. A+ experience.




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Cherokee of OKC lists it on their website, Did you check with them?

https://cherokeeokc.com/content/about-us
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Quote:
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Cherokee of OKC lists it on their website, Did you check with them?

https://cherokeeokc.com/content/about-us
I work only 2 miles from there and didn't know they existed... Doh! Well, I think this is good to know... I'm having more channeling shipped to me at no additional cost, so I think I will be OK (and I intentionally purchased more than I'm calculated to need). I was browsing their other products, and it looks like they have a nice solid core door selection, which I will need to pick out sooner or later.... Good find

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for anyone else following your thread, shipping channel across county should be the last resort, it is shorter, it is more expensive and you have to pay shipping.
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for anyone else following your thread, shipping channel across county should be the last resort, it is shorter, it is more expensive and you have to pay shipping.
Great Point, Jeff. And I agree, I think it would have been better if I sourced the channeling locally instead of purchasing it online - longer channel lengths and can visually inspect before walking out of the store with it... The one main reason I purchased online is that I was in a large % discount bracket with how much I was spending at Isostore, so the cost was cheaper than what I could get for it at the big box stores...
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post #26 of 748 Old 07-12-2018, 07:37 PM
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You can get longer lengths of channel locally - up to 12ft, which means fewer joins.
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post #27 of 748 Old 07-13-2018, 04:56 AM
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Aaron, I see that Cherokee also stocks putty pads and acoustical caulk if you run out.
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post #28 of 748 Old 07-13-2018, 05:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Aaron, I see that Cherokee also stocks putty pads and acoustical caulk if you run out.
Good catch! I missed that on my initial pass through of the site. Speaking of channel joins, what is the proper screw for this? I haven't accounted for this yet.

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post #29 of 748 Old 07-13-2018, 12:04 PM
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a self tapping 3/4 inch sheet metal screw with a Hex head is what I use. You put the screw in the inside elbow of the channel leg not on the flat surface where the drywall lays. Do not put two overlapping channels in a clip, cut the channel if needed.

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post #30 of 748 Old 07-16-2018, 02:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Ashton Cove Theater Build

I’ve ordered so much material these past few weeks that I’m forgetting what’s all coming. Doh!...

Here is a 50’ run of 2” Carlon Wire Loom



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