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post #1 of 57 Old 07-04-2018, 12:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Home Theater Build - Down the Rabbit Hole

This is now a build thread. Construction has begun!! See the latest post for pictures and questions along the way.

Since we moved into our house 3 years ago, I have been planning for a home theater room in the finished basement.

With that layout in mind, I began to work modeling planning my home theater build out. All told, I initially came up with an initial design. After showing this to my wife, she was.... less than enthused that I could only realistically seat 4 people (family of 5) in the room. We began to brainstorm where we could put things. Since the guest bedroom is a bit larger than is practical, I proposed swapping the theater room and the bedroom. Unfortunately, I knew there would be some obstructions and it wouldn't be a clean swap, so I mapped it all out in SketchUp.


*Note, the ceiling is ~7.75' everywhere except for the soffits

I knew about the following things as obstructions prior to mapping it out:
  • The upper set of dotted lines signifies a soffit containing a metal I-Beam.
  • The lower dotted line signifies an enormous soffit carrying ventilation, plumbing, and electrical
  • Additionally, just outside of the closet in the bedroom is a small basement (i.e., non-egress) window

After mapping it out however, I realized that the bathroom is not as deep as I initially though and that there appears to be an unused cavity behind it. I also did some "exploratory" research in the room and found that the enormous soffit is only half used and largely empty (could shrink to ~24"). Armed with this knowledge, I put together a proposed reconfiguration of the basement. This isn't valid - the foundation extends inwards.

This design mitigates all of the above obstructions. I hope to be able to shrink the soffit enough such that I can project from behind it to the AT wall that is merged with the new smaller (~24") soffit. Additionally, the top, left, and bottom walls have only foundation behind them (soil behind that foundation).

The current A/V equipment that I have:
8x KEF Q100 Bookshelf Speakers
2x KEF Ci160SR in-ceiling speakers
BenQ HT2050 Projector
Apple TV 4K
Xbox One S

The A/V equipment that I still need to purchase:
2x SVS PC2000 Subwoofers
2x KEF Ci160SR
Denon AVR X6400H
Silver Ticket 135" (maybe larger) AT Screen

Now comes the part where I have a lot of questions and generally overthink/over-engineer everything.
  • I plan on ripping down all of the drywall in the theater room, stuffing the walls with 4" R-15 fiberglass insulation and the ceiling with 6" R-19 fiberglass
  • insulation. Additionally, I plan on using IB-1 clips and hat channel to decouple the walls and ceiling. Finally, I plan on doing double 5/8" fireblock drywall with 2x tubes of green glue per sandwich (ref: middle option). As best I can tell, the framing for the foundation walls is not attached to the foundation itself, only the floor joists. It does appear to be pushed right up against the plastic facing insulation and moisture barrier. Do I still rip it all down (1/2" drywall), or is it decoupled enough such that I can simply apply another layer of drywall with green glue?
  • There are likely multiple metal ventilation ducts in the ceiling. Is it critical to replace this with flex duct?
  • I plan on running a 7.2.4 system. Should I pull 2x dedicated 20A outlets (1x for mains and 1x for sub)? If so, wouldn't that create a ground loop?
  • I do not have a return air vent in that room, should one be added using a dead vent?
  • Is linacoustic still the insulation of choice to use behind the AT wall?

Feel free to critique my A/V equipment and suggest improvements there as well. Any help is appreciated! If more information is needed, feel free to ask. I'm sure I have more questions (and more references and information that I have forgotten, but right now I have read so many posts and articles on this, I had to finally just post and start getting some feedback.

Thanks,
-Kevin

Update: New proposed build out is now linked in this post.
Update 07/13: Added updated build layout and rendering based on Tedd and BIG's latest suggestions.

(Shoutout to @Clarence for letting me come over, tour his room, and ask a ton of initial questions!)
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post #2 of 57 Old 07-04-2018, 08:31 PM
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In the new bedroom, I'd consider extending the closet wall all the way to the angled bedroom wall... would intersect it very near the door edge. Doubt the little nook you have now would be very useful, the extra width would increase closet space, and it would "square up" the overall shape of the bedroom.
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post #3 of 57 Old 07-05-2018, 04:38 AM
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Five theater style seats is around 120" wide. The attached JBL demo room pairs theater
style seating, with cutting edge high end gear. Which leads me to think that a single row
five seat layout could be interesting enough. It would be kind of unique North America-wise,
but less so in Europe.

Or you could deepen the theater and bring in a couple of bean bag chairs, from the
play room.

So your first option could work, along the lines of a single row version of this space.
The upside of the single row is you can have the screen mounted a little lower, and go big.
Less construction costs, and a better ATMOS set up, without a riser.

A second row and riser mean sight lines start to have an impact of screen size. The throw distance
with a second row also means the second row likely has little chance of reference level audio, unlike
a compact 5 wide seating layout.

Some pretty strong pros and cons attached to that sort of layout.
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post #4 of 57 Old 07-05-2018, 05:10 AM
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I do like the idea of how the JBL demo room embraces the entry door up front, and hides it. It is part of a shadow box
up front, which would suck up light scattering off of a woven AT screen. The hallway could allow you to have your AT space, and
that HVAC could be "front soffit". Might all tie in together quite nicely...

Another feature idea I like, is the av rack outside the theater, and the idea of a small lobby. Nothing crazy expensive, but
a feature wall of some sorts, and a digital movie poster light box could be in that wide hallway.

Is there anything in that dead space, like a waste stack, between the theater and bedroom? I could see where that could make for a nice
walk in closet, and that wall make for a nice headboard type surround unit.
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post #5 of 57 Old 07-05-2018, 07:05 AM
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@Gamingphreek

$0.02 feedback.

In @Tedd 's example has a small lobby-ish, with an AV closet. Make's it simplier to wire everything to a common location, and setup for cooling.
Additionally, you could add a second door to enclose the lobby area, for better sound control.


* rip down all the 1/2" drywall. It's relatively in-expensive to replace , and you know exactly what you are dealing with once's it's out of the way, and have the ability to correct the mistakes. There are always mistakes hidden behind walls. besides, you are doing double drywall and clips and channel on the ceiling as well, right.?

* metal ducting is a resonator built into the walls. depending on your overal sound proofing strategy, you may need to replace.. sound proofing is only as good as it's weakest link. so If wrapping it with duct liner is acceptable to you, then so be it.. thats your call.

* yes, pull 2x20amps, or more, to the room. if you do the design like Tedd suggested, pull 2x 20 amp at least to A/V rack location, 1x dedicated to behind the screen wall, and 1 x for the entire room. total of 4x 20amp circuits. Then you know you should have enough power..

* return air vent.. Without a doubt, you NEED to have this. not if, and , or but about that.. plain and simple. make sure there is an air return. why do clips and channel otherwise? you'd have to cut a hole in the door or leave a large gap below the door. eitherway, not ideal for sound proofing.

* linacoustic, - behind the screen.. mine is. along with some OC703. many choices.. this is all about your acoustic treatment plan.

HT1.0 | HT2.02
JVC RS-2000 / Xbox One X / nVidia Shield / DIY treatments
Seymour AV Center Stage 130" 2.35 / Denon 7200WA / Denon 6300 / 2x miniDSP2x4HD
iNuke NU6000DSP / iNukeNU3000DSP / 2x Klipsch R-112SW / 2x UM18-22 / 12x JBL 12"
11.2(16).6 Atmos/Klipsch RF-82/RC-64II/RS-42/RS-41/BS-62/CDT3800-C-II
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post #6 of 57 Old 07-05-2018, 07:22 AM
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Good call on moving swapping the bedroom and the theater, and for finding the wasted space in the soffit. They are typically not built to conserve space and minimize their "footprint. The layout for the theater and the rest of the rooms is getting better with every revision. Tedd's last revision is really honing in on something good. Moving the door back from the front wall is a good idea and it helps with layout of the other rooms. The entrance to the bathroom at the bottom of the diagram forces a lot of unused space below the bathroom. Consider moving the bathroom door to the side and you could either increase the bathroom size toward the bottom of the diagram or use the space for something else, like a large storage closet.

You may be able to make the soffit going across the room near the front into an architectural feature, like a theater proscenium. I found the example below with a quick image search. It doesn't hide a soffit, but it does show an example of what a proscenium in a home theater can look like.\


Like from this thread https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...struction.html

To address some of your questions and concerns:

If you build your walls so that they decoupled from the foundation walls, you don't need to use clips and channel, since they will already be isolated. It would be a good idea to use IB-3 clips or similar on the top to decouple them from the joists and the rest of the structure. This may require some rework, possibly taking down the walls and rebuilding them, but the material cost should be minimal and it would save you a lot on clips and channel. For the side wall that is not next to a foundation wall, you could either build a double wall, with the inside one decoupled from the rest of the structure, or use clips and channel.

For your ceilings, give strong consideration to installing drywall at the top of the existing joist cavities as shown in option 3. http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/...oof-a-ceiling/ It is a relatively easy DIY job that requires little skill, just time and patience. It usually involves grinding down staples and screws that protrude through from the floor above. The cost of the drywall and Green Glue isn't insignificant, but it will be small in comparison to the rest of the project. It provides a lot of additional mass that will help significantly with sound isolation. Once you move past this stage it will be near impossible to go back and add it later.

For any ducts that cross over the space to feed other rooms, leaving the metal ducts in place isn't a big problem. For any ducts that feed into the room, replacing them with flexible ducts is definitely recommended to minimize noise into the room. If there are any ducts feeding other rooms that are close to the ducts feeding the theater, do whatever you can to increase the length and replace any metal sections with flexible duct to minimize transfer between the rooms.

You should have a return vent. For every cubic foot of air that enters the room, there has to be a way to get a cubic foot of air out of the room. Most rooms are built to be rather "leaky" and the return is usually a big gap under the door. For a well sealed theater room, it is essential to have a return. My first thought would be to figure out where the return for the rest of the house is and try to tie into that. It normally feeds into the bottom of the furnace, usually from a duct at the side or the back. From there, it usually runs up and across the ceiling. It may be in the soffit at the middle of the house, or it may be in the soffit at the bottom of the diagram. If you tie into the primary return, use flexible duct with a lot of length to minimize noise transfer. The air going through from the rest of the house tends to be pretty fast moving and loud.

There are lots of options for sound treatments behind the screen. Here is a link to lots of them. Linacoustic is probably one of the most popular options. I lot will depend on what you can get from your local supplier.

https://www.bobgolds.com/AbsorptionCoefficients.htm

Having a couple of dedicated circuits in the room is always a good idea. Two outlet that are added and installed together will not create a ground loop, as long as you stick with them for all of the theater equipment, including the projector. This excludes the lights, which should be on a totally separate circuit. A ground loop is commonly created when you use two different circuits (frequently an existing one and a new one) and you connect equipment to both circuits. All circuits have some resistance. The problem comes when you use two different circuits and one of them has more resistance to ground than the other. Two new circuits that are installed at the same time should have the same ground path and should have minimal to no difference in ground potential, resulting in no ground loop.
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post #7 of 57 Old 07-05-2018, 08:02 AM
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That second layout has some potential to utilize the upper AT space for HVAC runs (and the back of the AV space). It
also looks like there might be some potential to work in a dead vent, with the bath room hall looking wide.

You also could simply treat that shadowboxed front, as a way to get yourself several layers of 5/8" drywall, between the HVAC
trunk and the theater. A slight drop in ceiling height there, might give the effect of the rest of the ceiling looking a wee bit taller
then it is. You also could use a long narrow backer box in the front soffit, to add entry lighting and screen wash spots.

Not sure how far you are taking this, but there sure seems to be tons of potential with that basement!
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post #8 of 57 Old 07-07-2018, 10:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Wow thanks for all of the awesome advice. I, unfortunately, have some bad news. I did some more exploratory cuts -- here is the updated floor plan (with the unfinished storage room added). I also annotated that current floor plan to better illustrate where everything is.



I have no earthy idea why the builder chose to bring the foundation into the main part instead of sinking a pier/post, but it is what it is.

At this point, I'm back to the drawing board and am open to any ideas. We would really like to swap the bedroom and theater room for the size aspects, but with the door, closet, and window where they are, I'm struggling to come up with a design that would allow it, but here is what I can think of so far:
1. Rotate the door 90 degrees to the bedroom and build the AT wall with the remainder of the wall -- however, my screen and mains are offset from where everyone would be sitting.
2. I could build a window plug and shift the closet door further away from the wall. That way, I can project on that side and use just use the soffit as a feature (projecting below it). I'm not sure how much that limits my screen size (since the ceiling is already only 7.5').
3. Don't swap the rooms and just have a compact theater room with only a single row of 4 seats.

I did explore taking over my unfinished storage space; however the HVAC would appear to make that impractical (would need a door in the HT room to access it).

Separately, this is a picture of inside the left-most wall of the bedroom.


Is this sufficiently decoupled from the foundation, or should I still use clips on it after tearing the drywall down? All of the walls are connected to the ceiling joists - I would use clips/channel before tearing the wall down and rebuilding it.

Thanks,
-Kevin
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post #9 of 57 Old 07-08-2018, 08:25 AM
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Go wider, to fit in 5 seats, and build in some closets?

I expect there's a wee bit more height to reclaim with improved framing for the soffit.

Maybe this Waterfall Audio room could give the Mrs something to visualize?

I'd be thinking five wide single row of seating, and the screen could be mounted lower
so I'd think about skipping a stage of any kind.
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post #10 of 57 Old 07-08-2018, 04:35 PM
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Maybe even wider, and tuck the av rack into the back corner?

You could do some acoustically transparent side walls too, and hide the side surrounds and any acoustical treatments.
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post #11 of 57 Old 07-09-2018, 04:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi Tedd,

Thanks for the advice! The problem with moving that wall any further out is that the vertical wall separating the playroom and workout room is only a half-wall. The other problem with that room is I am severely limited on the projectors that I can use to even get 120".

I think we are settled on using the bedroom in my drawings. For me, it is a matter of what to do with the soffits. I cut away a portion and there actually isn't an awful lot of waste space on the I-Beam soffits. I could move the 2x4's out from underneath, but the double drywall is going to soak up half of that space again. So realistically, I can gain ~1.5" of space.

I'll try and post pictures of that room today to give a better frame of reference than just a floor plan.

Thanks,
-Kevin
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post #12 of 57 Old 07-09-2018, 05:33 AM
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In defense of that 120" screen, just how bright is a 2050? And you want to think about using a realistic screen gain number, for an AT screen. You also are stretching out 1920x1080 resolution over a greater area, so you might be starting down the road to giving up picture quality versus the smaller 120" screen.

You also need to think about sight lines, so the second row can see over seated heads, and see the bottom of the screen. The riser height needs to be taller, to support the taller screen,

So maybe your best balance for your 13' wide room, and might be a 120" 16x9 screen is prefect, with the 3 wide seating, and the deep soffit up front soffit up front?

If those seats don't recline, then the seating foot print can be more compact lengthwise. I wonder if the seating set up of JOSK's room works, with the island style riser and 3+2 seating.

And I'll toss out a pic of a theater, with a deep soffit, for something to visually reference.
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post #13 of 57 Old 07-09-2018, 05:37 AM
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Here's the room with a JOSK type seating arrangement.
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post #14 of 57 Old 07-09-2018, 06:19 AM - Thread Starter
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As of right now, on a temporary basis only, I run the 2050 in ECO mode and project onto a flat white painted basement wall at ~135" and it seems plenty bright. The ST 135" AT screen that I currently have spec'd out is a 1.1 gain, so it shouldn't drastically change that from what I can tell. 120" is probably fine and I'm likely (stupidly) becoming enamored with the fact that such a long room would allow me to project a simply enormous picture consuming the entirety of the wall.

One thing I'm having trouble wrapping my mind around is the floor to ceiling height. Perhaps I'm wrong (and I think I am, so I apologize), but the pics you showed appeared have a taller room that what I'm able to do. That said, I loved the design decisions suggested earlier -- basically taking the soffit and stretching it all the way to the AT wall and projecting under that.

That said, a couple things that I was wondering:
1. In drawing the soffit out towards the screen, what should I do with the front Atmos speakers? I went back and listened to the AVForums podcast where they interviewed 2x THX sound engineers (very informative by the way) and they found that mounting the Atmos speakers towards the front produced a better effect. Should I simply mount those just outside of the soffit? What would the set back distance be from the face of the soffit?

2. With respect to the rear soffit, how should I place my rear speakers? Even if I shrink it to ~20", I'll likely need to mount them under the soffit. Would there be a concern that the speaker would effectively be pushed right up against the bottom of the soffit then?
2b. The HVAC in that soffit contains a main line that distributes air to 3 vents (2 in the room above and 2 in the current room). My thought was to insulate that main vent and replace the lines coming off of it with flex vent. Does this make sense?

3. Where would you suggest adding the dead vent? Moving the current air vent to just in front of the screen and the dead vent towards the back right of the room would make the most sense to me (cooling the length of the room). It seems to me I have 3 options here:
3a. Add a soffit along the sides of the room largely empty save for the back right side for the dead vent
3b. Build the dead vent into the wall (since there is a soffit on the other side of the door that is big enough.
3c. Leave the soffit as large as it is.

4. Should I add ventilation to the A/V closet at the front right? As of right now, I'm naively assuming that equipment won't get very warm in such a relatively large space.

Attached are pictures of the space as it currently stands (apologize for the mess, I just started throwing stuff around when I cut holes yesterday).

Thanks,
-Kevin
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post #15 of 57 Old 07-09-2018, 06:25 AM
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Working inwards, from the soffits.

Could less be more?
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post #16 of 57 Old 07-09-2018, 06:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Oh wow! I love the idea of putting the closet back there! That said, I like the idea of 2 rows of seating even more. Having a row of 3 in the front and a row of 4 in the back is what I am hoping to get out of the room. (My wife correctly pointed out that we would need to arbitrate who is on the bean bags vs who is on the couch constantly haha). I wonder if I can squeeze two rows into the less-is-more plan you came up with...

I also looked at the JOSK build and will stand 110% corrected - looks like his front wall is "only" 5'3" floor to ceiling, so I should have no problem considering the main ceiling is ~93" and under the soffit it ~77" (county code says it has to be 6'6" though, so I might be slightly off with my measurement.

-Kevin

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post #17 of 57 Old 07-09-2018, 07:12 AM
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There could be fighting for the bean bags chairs, but there also could be 3 of them.

I expect JOSK's room is taller, but it was the riser design where it might be steps of maybe 5 inches, to gain enough elevation, to see
the bottom of the screen, for the second row. The screen also would be suitably sized.

Everyone wants a big screen. But the place to start designing is around the seating. That places your eyes and ears, so with a seat selected,
you have a measurement, to draw a to scale side sight line diagram and look at the interaction of screen height, mounting height, front row heads, and
even where the pj ends up, throw distance-wise.

So you were actually being right on the ball as that big screen + second row, makes for a challenge, with the low heights and soffits.

Another issue is a lot of screen gains, tend to be marketing. I'd suggest using a .9 gain and maybe think about how bulbs wear and lose output.

You could stick the back row on the back of the room, and live with the poor audio. It's commonly done, but I can't say I'm a fan of being right on top
of surround speakers, and audio in a back corner can get pretty brutal.

You'd be surprised how gear heats up a room. And bodies do too.
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post #18 of 57 Old 07-09-2018, 07:37 AM
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Not sure if the throw works for the pj, with the front AT wall pushed back. But you could simply go 3' wide at the entry,
extend the riser outside the room. And use a small riser, on the riser. Now those riser steps could aimed at keeping
to code ceiling height, for the fixed riser. The upper riser would not be permanent so it shouldn't be a issue re code.
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post #19 of 57 Old 07-10-2018, 06:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok - I incorporated a lot of everyones thoughts and some other designs I saw into this. I think it mitigates everything!
  • By bringing in the walls on each side of the back, from the central seating position, I am now compliant with Dolby spec for all speakers (135-150 for back, etc...)
  • I haven't decided on a 120 or 135" screen yet, but based on the fact that I'll be just under 8' away and it will be under the soffit/proscenium, I'm thinking it will probably be 120".
  • The soffit on the rear need only be slightly reduced (unless it can be eliminated completely). The riser and rear channels all mount on the newly built wall with no obstructions.
  • The curved step allows one to step out from under the soffit completely before stepping up.
  • Both rows should be able to fully recline without obstruction
  • The A/V cabinet is mere feet away from my panel on the floor above and can be supplied with it's own HVAC separate from the rest of the room.
  • The projector should not be in head-bopping distance

So my questions before I start some serious movement:
  • Is there any acoustic benefit to leaving the entry door where it currently is and adding the second door (creating a vestibule of sorts)?
  • Is there any acoustic detriment to leaving the entry door where it currently is and simply not installing a door as shown (creating a small hallway)?
  • I can't think of any use for the closet up front. It hurts me to close off finished square footage, so can anyone think of something I could place there?
  • Should the door to the A/V closet and the room itself open inwards or outwards? I was thinking outwards for the A/V closet and inwards for the main door(s).

Thoughts/critiques? I'm pretty excited about this design!

Thanks,
-Kevin
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post #20 of 57 Old 07-11-2018, 05:03 AM
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The three reasons I saw for the closet, were:

1) The HVAC could be snaked through there, in something like a dead vent.
2) Subwoofer placement, and eat up less room depth.
3) AV rack behind a panel.

Or a combination of two or three of these.

Thoughts:

Is that curved step actually safe?

Code might dictate door swing.

Maybe the rear HVAC could see a shift. With a couple of new pieces of sheet metal.

What AT screen lets you sit 8' away, and not see weave? (I am not current on the latest AT screen fabrics.)

So how compact is your seating, depth-wise?
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post #21 of 57 Old 07-11-2018, 05:40 AM
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Do small amounts of closed off space, actually hurt, when they have purpose?

Another thought is to extend the theater out past the bath room. Would that get you your
rear surround Dolby spec?

You could think about what finishes and room style you like, and how they could be employed
to stealth out the sub and av rack. That rear dead vent could be in a a soffit, and below could be
acoustically transparent fabric wall to hide the rear surrounds, and acoustical treatments.
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post #22 of 57 Old 07-11-2018, 08:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
The three reasons I saw for the closet, were:

1) The HVAC could be snaked through there, in something like a dead vent.
2) Subwoofer placement, and eat up less room depth.
3) AV rack behind a panel.

Or a combination of two or three of these.

Thoughts:

Is that curved step actually safe?

Code might dictate door swing.

Maybe the rear HVAC could see a shift. With a couple of new pieces of sheet metal.

What AT screen lets you sit 8' away, and not see weave? (I am not current on the latest AT screen fabrics.)

So how compact is your seating, depth-wise?
I thought of that for the closet, but the AT wall is only 20" deep as it is. Not sure I necessarily need to push it further back and move the sub into the closet area.

Regarding the curved step, I'm not sure it impacts safety. Probably not going to be a huge step up since the rear seating will be on a dedicated riser. I suppose it may need to be lighted though. Off the top of my head, I don't know anything from a code perspective that

Regarding the AT screen - I didn't know I had to factor that into the equation to be completely honest. This is the screen that I was looking at. Do I need to find a way to push further back? At 120", how far back would I need to sit? I'm not sure how much I can compress the seating.

I hadn't decided on which seats, but I was using these as an exemplar.

Extending past the bathroom could help a little I suppose; however, what I'm having trouble make work is the fact that the room is much longer than it is wide. I could move the seating position back a little bit; however, I would need to be careful that the fronts can still be in spec.

Thanks,
-Kevin
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post #23 of 57 Old 07-11-2018, 09:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Looks like the SeymourAV Center Stage UF is good as close at 6ft away. Reviews mention that the gain is ~0.8, so I may need to turn off eco-mode and mount the projector slightly closer to get a sufficiently bright image on the 2050. That said, anything is better than the wall I am currently projecting on

I'm also open to switching the rear seats to true theater seats (i.e., they don't recline) in order to move the front row back sufficiently.

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post #24 of 57 Old 07-12-2018, 05:05 AM - Thread Starter
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First off, wow were you right about seating distance. I severely underestimated the distance in my makeshift room right now. I thought I was about 8ft away when, in fact, I was 11ft away.

I uploaded the new plan with your suggestions incorporated. I also uploaded a plan with an overlay of the Dolby speaker placement angles. Using the THX/SMPTE distance calculator, I also determined that I am now at SMPTE reference seating distance. I did a rough calculation and figured that my riser should be ~14" tall -- so I am thinking 2x 7" risers to get the second row where it needs to be. I replaced the back row of theater recliner seats with a row of 4 movie theater seats for space considerations -- that way I maintain seating for 7, but the front row gets the comfy chairs.

Regarding the rear surround right and left channels-- I have them in speaker columns right now to bring them out from the wall so they are flush with the edge of the soffit. Given the height they need to be mounted at to not be masked by the second row, I was worried that they would be too close to the bottom of the soffit and cause significant vertical reflection. Is there another way to mitigate that -- perhaps adding an acoustic dampening panel on the underside of the soffit?

All said, I think this design should work. Does anyone see any problems with it? I'm open to any tweaks that would help (from an aesthetic or functional perspective)! I'd love to start ripping down drywall this weekend

Thanks,
-Kevin
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post #25 of 57 Old 07-12-2018, 05:21 AM
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I'm confused about your riser and steps, just doesn't look right, maybe I don't understand the various levels.
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post #26 of 57 Old 07-12-2018, 05:51 AM
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It's working for me. Getting close. Have you considered selling off the surround speakers and replacing with in wall speakers?
The use of in wall speakers for the surrounds, would buy your more separation space between seating and speaker. And also
the side surrounds would not be something in the aisle (circulation) space. Also simply be less visual clutter.


Maybe bring the AT screen forward 3-6"? 20 deep" is somewhat tight. Ideally you want your mains 6" off the backside of
the AT fabric, so they don't timbre shift. You also want some absorption on the front wall, to suck up the bit of energy coming
off the backside of the AT fabric, so the wee bit of extra depth, visually shrinks the soffit a wee bit, and there's some value to
the deeper AT space.

That riser height is maybe a wee bit on the low side. Riser height is a function of screen height, screen mounting height, seating height
(seated eyes -tall people in the front row?), and the depth between seating also means an increase in riser height. High backed home theater
recliners are often used, but fixed, low back seating does have some advantages. Both when inches are tight, and with improved surround sound
fields.

That deep soffit could be acoustically treated, for first row front reflection points, at the cost of height. I do wonder how much wiggle room is there,
to be reclaimed, or even open areas that could get backer boxes, for screen wash spots. I also like the idea of a long narrow backer box, to recess
spot lighting in a soffit.
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post #27 of 57 Old 07-12-2018, 05:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
I'm confused about your riser and steps, just doesn't look right, maybe I don't understand the various levels.
Hmm yea I'm sorry that doesn't look as clear as it did in my mind

Are the new uploads a little bit clearer? I added one 3D rendering where I pulled the risers up to their anticipated heights. Basically, the steps on either side are ~7". Then, the back row needs an additional 7" to reach the 14" of height that I calculated, so I added a second riser. The second row is shallow in depth because I am planning on using non-reclining movie theater-style seats due to space considerations.

-Kevin
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post #28 of 57 Old 07-12-2018, 06:09 AM
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just a shameless plug for doing big a$$ steps, your column can go on the step.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...big-steps.html
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post #29 of 57 Old 07-12-2018, 06:23 AM
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I would see if those side steps could be longer. More BigA$$ like, but still watch the headroom with the soffits.

And I sure like lighting as a wow factor. Some inexpensive RGB led tape lighting and some aluminum profile for it,
could make the steps be a design feature, and light stairs for safety.
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post #30 of 57 Old 07-12-2018, 06:38 AM
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I personally like Art Install's fabric side panel layout of The Loft.

http://www.artinstall.ru/en/projects/loft

Now think in wall speakers in shallow columns for surrounds, then those cleat hung fabric panels, and
the bling being inexpensive RGB lighting tape. Those cleat hung panels could be simple speaker grill fabric,
yet allow for snaking future wiring around the room, and hide acoustical treatments.

It's very unique and uber creative, but I don't see big bucks there, for a DIY'er...
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