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post #3541 of 6296 Old 10-02-2019, 09:57 AM
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Yeah, unfortunately the Marantz does not have that option either in a hard switch or menu option. It states 6 ohms is the minimum, so I don't think I can hook one driver per channel. I'll go back to the drawing board and figure something out. I'm just not real knowledgeable with what is safe as far as the JBLs power abilities and what is really required to make the BOSS design work well. But I'll figure something out. Thanks again.

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post #3542 of 6296 Old 10-02-2019, 10:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luv2fly3 View Post
Yeah, unfortunately the Marantz does not have that option either in a hard switch or menu option. It states 6 ohms is the minimum, so I don't think I can hook one driver per channel. I'll go back to the drawing board and figure something out. I'm just not real knowledgeable with what is safe as far as the JBLs power abilities and what is really required to make the BOSS design work well. But I'll figure something out. Thanks again.
luv2fly....Thanks for the feedback. If you have the Marantz already and it's not being used, I would definitely try using it first. The AVR manufacturer's are pretty conservative when it comes to rating loads for their equipment. The worst thing that could happen is the AVR will trip on internal protector and require a restart. Not a big deal and if it continues to trip after spirited BOSS sessions, then at least you can justify the extra money and time to pursue another option.

With the 108 watts per channel you cited, that's likely a peak value and RMS power will be closer to 76 watts which is perfect for these JBL's.

They are pretty forgiving as far as a driver selection goes.....some members have pushed as much as 100 watts RMS into these for BOSS duty and reported no unusual sounds. These little drivers can take some punishment as one would expect being designed for car duty.

Hope this helps.
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post #3543 of 6296 Old 10-02-2019, 10:30 AM
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I appreciate that insight. I'll give the Marantz a try. Like you said, worse case, the amp just shuts down. If that happens, then I'll know to use a different amp. But it's probably worth testing it, and if it works, that would be awesome with individual control per channel. Plus it's just sitting collecting dust right now, so it would be great to see it get some use. Hoping to get my isolators in the next few days. I ordered them direct from Hudson, and haven't seen anything other than an order confirmation yet. So hopefully they're shipping them soon. Appreciate all your work on the BOSS design and for all of the insight you offer to others like me!

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post #3544 of 6296 Old 10-02-2019, 10:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luv2fly3 View Post
I appreciate that insight. I'll give the Marantz a try. Like you said, worse case, the amp just shuts down. If that happens, then I'll know to use a different amp. But it's probably worth testing it, and if it works, that would be awesome with individual control per channel. Plus it's just sitting collecting dust right now, so it would be great to see it get some use. Hoping to get my isolators in the next few days. I ordered them direct from Hudson, and haven't seen anything other than an order confirmation yet. So hopefully they're shipping them soon. Appreciate all your work on the BOSS design and for all of the insight you offer to others like me!
Great to hear.....please let us know how it works out. There's probably a lot of these 7 channel amps out there that are unused these days! Would be great if they could be re-purposed for BOSS duty.
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post #3545 of 6296 Old 10-03-2019, 08:57 AM
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https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Handle-Protector-Adhesive-Stopper/dp/B07GFFPG88

Some hollow type design

https://www.amazon.in/dp/B07NCXWH9H/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_i_dBILDbK7STRE0

Or attaching one on top of another..
Will any of these these work, or do I need to keep looking..
I know they are crucial

Last edited by varun432; 10-03-2019 at 09:54 AM.
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post #3546 of 6296 Old 10-03-2019, 12:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by varun432 View Post
https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Handle-Protector-Adhesive-Stopper/dp/B07GFFPG88

Some hollow type design

https://www.amazon.in/dp/B07NCXWH9H/..._dBILDbK7STRE0

Or attaching one on top of another..
Will any of these these work, or do I need to keep looking..
I know they are crucial
Varun432....Thanks. Both of those options look to be too hard. For the optimum BOSS experience, something in the 30-40 durometer range would be best.

After searching the India Amazon website you linked, something like these would work.

If I remember, your BOSS platform will be a full size one. If so, you only need about .5" of clearance between the bottom of the riser and the floor below.

I'm presuming these trays are solid silicone (not hollow). If so, I would cut these and use the back part only (the more solid piece without the ribs). 2 of those pieces stacked on top of each other would provide about .5" clearance once the weight of the platform and chairs is placed on top to squeeze them down.

I also found this safety rider here made from silicone rubber. This piece seems to be rather larger if the dimensions are correct. If those dimensions are true, this could be cut up to make several isolators all from one piece.

Hope some of this feedback helps with your search.
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post #3547 of 6296 Old 10-03-2019, 12:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by varun432 View Post
https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Handle-Protector-Adhesive-Stopper/dp/B07GFFPG88

Some hollow type design

https://www.amazon.in/dp/B07NCXWH9H/..._dBILDbK7STRE0

Or attaching one on top of another..
Will any of these these work, or do I need to keep looking..
I know they are crucial
varun432......one other idea just occurred to me if the isolator search continues to be difficult. Member @Longeze used bicycle inner tubes that were inflated for his isolators. A link to his build with pictures is right here. He's reporting great results with this arrangement. This could even possibly be better than the prescribed isolators since his design not only is very "soft" but also captures the back pressure from the drivers which is likely causing even more "bounce" and TR.

Hope this helps with other ideas.
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post #3548 of 6296 Old 10-03-2019, 02:00 PM
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Thanks trhought... You've been of great help... I think I now get your point regarding their softness.. And those products you listed specially the first one give a fare idea of what to look for...

My drivers our suppose to arrive in 3 4 days... Shall check something at a hardware store near me.. I think I should definitely find something..

Thanks for all the help!!
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post #3549 of 6296 Old 10-03-2019, 09:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by varun432 View Post
Thanks trhought... You've been of great help... I think I now get your point regarding their softness.. And those products you listed specially the first one give a fare idea of what to look for...

My drivers our suppose to arrive in 3 4 days... Shall check something at a hardware store near me.. I think I should definitely find something..

Thanks for all the help!!
Sounds like a good plan. You'll be enjoying your BOSS soon! Looking forward to learning more about your build and impressions afterwards.
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post #3550 of 6296 Old 10-04-2019, 01:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trhought View Post
varun432......one other idea just occurred to me if the isolator search continues to be difficult. Member @Longeze used bicycle inner tubes that were inflated for his isolators. A link to his build with pictures is right here. He's reporting great results with this arrangement. This could even possibly be better than the prescribed isolators since his design not only is very "soft" but also captures the back pressure from the drivers which is likely causing even more "bounce" and TR.

Hope this helps with other ideas.

I was planning on using inner tubes from a removalist trolley tyre - only 8 1/2" diameter and very robust and only $4USD each



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post #3551 of 6296 Old 10-04-2019, 05:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by niterida View Post
I was planning on using inner tubes from a removalist trolley tyre - only 8 1/2" diameter and very robust and only $4USD each


That's a great idea niterida! Since they are smaller, I'm presuming several of them will be used around the bottom of the platform for isolation using the traditional placement guidelines rather than using the bigger diameter inner tubes to go around each driver.

Sounds like a cool design....looking forward to learning more about your design and how those smaller inner tubes will be integrated.

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post #3552 of 6296 Old 10-04-2019, 03:07 PM
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I will be ready to start a build but need some help. Thanks in advance.
I currently have 2 rythmik subs connected to a minidsp2x4 HD that is connected to an Onkyo RZ830. I ordered and already got delievered 3 of the JBL drivers. I also bought a Behringer nx3000d but it will not arrive for a couple more weeks. I am not familiar with these type of amps. This is where I need help so I can have everything ready by the time it comes.

1 - Do I use the second sub out on the receiver to the amp or do I use the available sub out on the minidsp? I was thinking I could just use the dsp on the amp and apply the settings from post 1414
2 - what type of cable do I need to connect to the amp input from the receiver or minidsp?
3 - I already have speaker cable but what type of speakon connector do I need to buy?
4 - Do I connect this in serial or parallel?

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post #3553 of 6296 Old 10-05-2019, 03:06 PM
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@trhought , happy to report that BOSS is in place for second row as well. This time went cantilevered. I do have a question. I need to get an image in my head about wiring the two rows of 3 JBLs each. Right now running only 3 JBLs in series in bridged mode on the NX3000D. So two questions:

1. How do I wire across two rows. I assume still in series but how

2. I assume I could continue to run in series across the two rows and still in bridged mode on amp?

3. Alternatively I could run the back row separately wired in series and use the mono or stereo option on the amp?

Thoughts?


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Subwoofers: Dual Rythmik FV18s Rev2 with Paper cone, BOSS Platform mini riser, 2 BK LFE
Speakers: PSA MTM-210 L/C/R - Klipsch 250S Surrounds, PSA MT 110sr Rear Surrounds, 4 x SVS Prime Elevation for Atmos
Video: Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 6500 UB; Room: 2100 cuft sealed on suspended floor
Receiver & Players: Denon X4400H, Oppo UDP-203, Roku Ultra. Apple TV, Minidsp 2X4 HD
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post #3554 of 6296 Old 10-05-2019, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imureh View Post
@trhought , happy to report that BOSS is in place for second row as well. This time went cantilevered. I do have a question. I need to get an image in my head about wiring the two rows of 3 JBLs each. Right now running only 3 JBLs in series in bridged mode on the NX3000D. So two questions:

1. How do I wire across two rows. I assume still in series but how

2. I assume I could continue to run in series across the two rows and still in bridged mode on amp?

3. Alternatively I could run the back row separately wired in series and use the mono or stereo option on the amp?

Thoughts?


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Wire both rows in series and then join both sets in parallel to the amp (both sets joined to the same amp output). Will give a 6ohm load if the JBLs are 4 ohm (or 12ohm if they are 8s?)


See this pic (ignore the ohms and precentage values)





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post #3555 of 6296 Old 10-06-2019, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by niterida View Post
Wire both rows in series and then join both sets in parallel to the amp (both sets joined to the same amp output). Will give a 6ohm load if the JBLs are 4 ohm (or 12ohm if they are 8s?)


See this pic (ignore the ohms and precentage values)






Thanks man. Makes sense. My current configuration is generating a 12 ohm. The three drivers in first row are wired in series. I am just wondering if I did the same thing for back row and used the second channel on the amp, that would allow me to control the two seats separately. I sit in the the first row so no need to have the second row shaking if no one is there. Now in that case I would have see what mode the NX3000D would need to be run in. What do you think?


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post #3556 of 6296 Old 10-06-2019, 10:16 AM
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Just got done running another run of speaker cable to the attic so I can control each row of seating interdependently from one another.


I currently have the Buttkicker amplifier powering the front row & the Behringer NX3000 powering the rear row.


The front row is working great with plenty of headroom with the Buttkicker amp I can really get the seats shaking.


The rear row on the other hand is very much a disappointment, I have maxed out the volume controls on the Behringer amplifier front panel but the drivers are barely moving so I can feel hardly anything through the seat.


I checked everything was set correctly in the MiniDSP 2x4 HD & I even turned up the gain for the rear row to +12dB which did help a little but still is not enough.


So I am scratching my head at the moment, I have wired the SVS driver on its own channel (Channel A) & the four MB Quarts on the other channel (Channel B)


I would hope this amp has enough power to drive them all so have I wired them incorrectly? Should I just use one channel for them all instead of two?
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post #3557 of 6296 Old 10-06-2019, 09:45 PM
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Got my built in mini boss up and running last week. After lots of demo scenes and three movies, I’m absolutely loving it. I was just able to squeeze two of the jbl’s into each chair. Total of 6 drivers, wired to 6ohm load. Running off the one open channel of my crown dci8/300, so 300w rms.
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post #3558 of 6296 Old 10-07-2019, 07:25 AM
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Decided not to take half measures..

2 pioneer subs have just arrived...
Ordering 2 more...

I already have a spare 1000w rms amp..

First impression is the last impression...
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post #3559 of 6296 Old 10-07-2019, 08:58 AM
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Got my built in mini boss up and running last week. After lots of demo scenes and three movies, I’m absolutely loving it. I was just able to squeeze two of the jbl’s into each chair. Total of 6 drivers, wired to 6ohm load. Running off the one open channel if my crown dci8/300, so 300w rms.
Chris
Nice looking setup! So is the whole chair being supported on those 4 rubber half-sphere decouplers, and the regular chair feet are now floating?


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post #3560 of 6296 Old 10-07-2019, 09:27 AM
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Nice looking setup! So is the whole chair being supported on those 4 rubber half-sphere decouplers, and the regular chair feet are now floating?
Thanks. Yes, the armrest feet are floating. I was worried I’d have to brace the armrests, but they are still solid. The chair had 4 additional feet underneath, I used their bolt holes to attach the BOSS.

I wasn’t happy with the clearance from surround to carpet, so I did lift it slightly with these, found somewhere in this thread:

https://www.amazon.com/Slipstick-CB4...0465513&sr=8-4

My carpet is thin, and no pad, so I took the cups to the belt sander and sanded the spikes down flush with the base. Ended up with perfect clearance for the subs.

Chris
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post #3561 of 6296 Old 10-08-2019, 05:24 PM
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Riser is done. It feels way more natural than my front row with 4 BK advance under each individual seat. Even wife was impressed, unfortunately i cant put a riser/mini in front row. My plan is to carpet the riser. I plan to nail the carpet to the underbelly and cut out small areas where the isolators are located. It is possible for the 3M tape on the isolators to stick to carpets if I dont intend to cut a small hole for them? Im afraid that if i put isolators onto the riser and then carpet with small holes cut out would eliminate the gap between riser and floor therefore no breathing room for BOSS. Any other suggestions for carpeting this?

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I picked up the carpet today and plan to carpet the riser tomorrow. My BOSS drivers are flush mounted, do I still need to cut holes in the carpet for the drivers?
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post #3562 of 6296 Old 10-09-2019, 05:17 AM
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I just got my platforms hooked up last night. I'm not 100% done, but did have a chance to try them. Not sure I have things quite right as the feel wasn't all I expected. Maybe my expectations are too high, or some tweaking is needed. My main question is how do I know if I'm driving the JBL drivers (CX1200s) too hard? I don't want to damage them, but felt like I had more power to add if I could safely do it, either with the attenuators on the Amp or more gain. My Amp is a Crown K1 and I'm running 4 of the JBLs in series/parallel for a 4 ohm total load per row. That Amp has a max out to 4ohms in stereo of 550watts or so (manual states 550 watts is maximum average power in watts.) So if my calculations are right, that would mean about 137 or so watts per driver max. I know that is more than the suggested 80 so I did keep the gain and amp back a bit. Maybe I'm just not pushing them hard enough? Just don't know how to tell how much is too much? I'm just a bit ignorant when it comes to wattage, gain and driver capabilities.

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post #3563 of 6296 Old 10-09-2019, 11:00 AM
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I picked up the carpet today and plan to carpet the riser tomorrow. My BOSS drivers are flush mounted, do I still need to cut holes in the carpet for the drivers?
IMO I would to get that full effect of the drive firing up at your seat.
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post #3564 of 6296 Old 10-09-2019, 01:21 PM
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I tried to fight the urge but too many members have pushed me to get a boss riser. I spent some time and really dig into this forum. (Holy cow it’s long) and have decided to build on under my three seat couch. I originally planned to go with just 3 drivers but may opt to build it with 4 drivers. I wanted to get other users opinions on if I should go 3 or 4 drivers.

Outside of drivers for a 4 driver setup I need 6 isolators? Or should I get 8? Not sure how many would be required.

I will be powering them through a nx6000d spare channel I will have.

Outside of wiring am I missing anything else? I’ve seen some users use two sheets of 3/4” ply to allow flush mount. Is there any benefit to the added rigidity or is it only to easily mount the driver flush?

Sorry for all the questions but I couldn’t easily find the answers through the thread.

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post #3565 of 6296 Old 10-09-2019, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by superkyle View Post
I tried to fight the urge but too many members have pushed me to get a boss riser. I spent some time and really dig into this forum. (Holy cow it’s long) and have decided to build on under my three seat couch. I originally planned to go with just 3 drivers but may opt to build it with 4 drivers. I wanted to get other users opinions on if I should go 3 or 4 drivers.

Outside of drivers for a 4 driver setup I need 6 isolators? Or should I get 8? Not sure how many would be required.

I will be powering them through a nx6000d spare channel I will have.

Outside of wiring am I missing anything else? I’ve seen some users use two sheets of 3/4” ply to allow flush mount. Is there any benefit to the added rigidity or is it only to easily mount the driver flush?

Sorry for all the questions but I couldn’t easily find the answers through the thread.


I’d decide how many drivers based on what will fit in your seating. 3 can only be wired to 12 ohm or 1.33 ohm (assuming the jbl’s, svc 4 ohm). The nx6000 will have plenty of power at 12ohm, so not a problem.
4 drivers can be wired to a much easier 4ohm load.

Isolators, one under each chair foot is standard. Some people recommend one every 2ft if leg spacing is wider.

A double baffle makes the setup much stiffer and allows you to flush mount drivers. This allows you to run the smaller 1.25” isolators. The more rigid the platform, the more efficient the energy transfer.
I would have used double baffle if I built a mini riser instead of individual chairs.

Chris


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post #3566 of 6296 Old 10-09-2019, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by a77cj7 View Post
I’d decide how many drivers based on what will fit in your seating. 3 can only be wired to 12 ohm or 1.33 ohm (assuming the jbl’s, svc 4 ohm). The nx6000 will have plenty of power at 12ohm, so not a problem.
4 drivers can be wired to a much easier 4ohm load.

Isolators, one under each chair foot is standard. Some people recommend one every 2ft if leg spacing is wider.

A double baffle makes the setup much stiffer and allows you to flush mount drivers. This allows you to run the smaller 1.25” isolators. The more rigid the platform, the more efficient the energy transfer.
I would have used double baffle if I built a mini riser instead of individual chairs.

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Platform would need to be 78” X 36” to sit in the middle of the legs. Each slat is about 25” apart. I could prob honestly fit 6 lol but I know I could fit 4 also. But it wouldn’t be asymmetrical. Not that it matters. Here is a picture of the underside of the couch.

I want to keep it hidden as possible for sure.

So basically going double baffle is the way to go huh? I want to do it once and do it right so now I’m at 4 jbl subs and two sheets of plywood. I thought I read that 1.25” was for standard installation. Are you sure that’s the smalles you could go with double baffle? Thought I would just need about 1/2” beyond the flush mount so something like .75” should work no?

As far as parts list am I missing anything? I do want to create a clean way to connect and disconnect the cable so I’ll need to hard mount a speakon connector or something but other than that small stuff I should have a good parts list.

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post #3567 of 6296 Old 10-09-2019, 02:45 PM
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The Hideaway Theater

Quote:
Originally Posted by superkyle View Post
Platform would need to be 78” X 36” to sit in the middle of the legs. Each slat is about 25” apart. I could prob honestly fit 6 lol but I know I could fit 4 also. But it wouldn’t be asymmetrical. Not that it matters. Here is a picture of the underside of the couch.

I want to keep it hidden as possible for sure.

So basically going double baffle is the way to go huh? I want to do it once and do it right so now I’m at 4 jbl subs and two sheets of plywood. I thought I read that 1.25” was for standard installation. Are you sure that’s the smalles you could go with double baffle? Thought I would just need about 1/2” beyond the flush mount so something like .75” should work no?

As far as parts list am I missing anything? I do want to create a clean way to connect and disconnect the cable so I’ll need to hard mount a speakon connector or something but other than that small stuff I should have a good parts list.


You could go very hidden with that setup. Since theres no recliner mechanism to deal with, i wouldn’t do a platform at all. I’d build single baffle boards screwed directly into the couch frame, with the woofers mounted magnet down. Then just add isolators to the couch feet. Maybe 2 1.25” isolators per foot, for a total of eight.

The standard isolators are 2.5” diameter, 1.25 thick uncompressed. The smaller ones used for double baffle and risers are 1.25 diameter.

I used PE terminal cups and banana plugs on mine.

I’d use 6 woofers if they fit, just because I could. I’m sure you’ll be good with 4 though.

Chris
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post #3568 of 6296 Old 10-09-2019, 03:17 PM
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I just got home and snapped a pic of my hookup from the back of the chair. Simple, easy, and quick. Speakons would be as well.
Click image for larger version

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post #3569 of 6296 Old 10-09-2019, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a77cj7 View Post
You could go very hidden with that setup. Since theres no recliner mechanism to deal with, i wouldn’t do a platform at all. I’d build single baffle boards screwed directly into the couch frame, with the woofers mounted magnet down. Then just add isolators to the couch feet. Maybe 2 1.25” isolators per foot, for a total of eight.

The standard isolators are 2.5” diameter, 1.25 thick uncompressed. The smaller ones used for double baffle and risers are 1.25 diameter.

I used PE terminal cups and banana plugs on mine.

I’d use 6 woofers if they fit, just because I could. I’m sure you’ll be good with 4 though.

Chris


Nice that’s actually a great idea. With is nailed to the frame would I need to worry about generating any spl since it may provide back pressure on the driver?

I really like what you did with the terminal cup mount. Turned out awesome. How many drivers did you use and how do you like your results?

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post #3570 of 6296 Old 10-09-2019, 04:03 PM
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1.25" Platinum Silicone Hemisphere Bumper, Non-Skid Isolation Feet with Adhesive | 20 Duro | 8 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075KHNK62..._VzMNDbN2AJS19

This look correct for the feet? I want to make sure I have enough as I don’t want to put too much weight on them and basically just squish them

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