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post #2341 of 2406 Old 05-15-2019, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Archaea View Post
I’ve been playing with two different BOSS platform layouts. Here are my thoughts so far.

BOSS platform: More jello jiggly vertical bounce feeling by probably 50% at the same settings, with the exact same power. The BOSS platform jiggles more. I like that bounce, it's fun, but reality is that the effect of sitting on a trampoline isn't fully realistic, bass doesn't make you bounce like that. So I'm torn. Want more crazy? Turn it up, you just bounce more! However, I've been in home theater rooms with 140dB-150dB real bass (pennynike1 and Lukeamdman in particular) and bouncing like that, that Jello feeling, even at those ridiculous tremendous SPL levels doesn't really happen. (Both of those rooms are basement slab home theater rooms for what is' worth). The bounce is fun, and grin inducing, don't get me wrong, but I think ultra realism might take a slight backseat to the Fun characteristic when the BOSS platform is cranked to max. I need to do more testing still to make a decision. I think I almost found a middle ground in putting boards under the 20 durameter iso on the direct mount setup instead of letting the ISOs sit directly on the carpet, but even then I still can't get the jiggly shake of the BOSS platform with the direct mount setup. If it's any consideration they are both great, and I'm having trouble figuring out which way I want to go - even after two hours of demoing back and forth - direct A/B. So either route is quite good. I think if I wanted to never tell someone I'd done this additional tactile response, I'd use the direct mount and I'd wager big money no enthusiast would guess I'd done with volume in check. They’d just think my subwoofers were extremely tactile — vs, if I wanted to say hey check this out, and bounce someone's ball cap off and make them grin ear to ear laughter, id do the BOSS platform and then be asked by my guest to explain how I did that. Sort of a sleeper car vs show car analogy.

I liked the realism of the direct mount, but who can ignore the fun of the BOSS in the IronMan Jericho missile scene, or the Cannon fire in Master and Commander? For those scenes the BOSS's extra jiggle and depth was fantastic! In BlackHawk down the BOSS jiggled, more, but I felt the direct mount was more accurate to what those Choppers really feel like (I've flown in them). In the THX Amazing Life clip the mushroom thump was more exaggerated and fun with the BOSS, but more tight and controlled feeling with the direct mount. On Star Wars Red Matter I like both equally. On the Depth Charge scene from U571, the explosion felt more jiggly on BOSS, and tighter with direct mount - I liked both. With the Cave Troll scene where the hobbit knocks the bucket down the well, the BOSS platform actually shook there, I didn't even know that bucket was supposed to have bass. Mr. and Mrs. Smith was better on the direct mount because the shotgun blasts were tight, vs. jiggly. And so on and so on...More of the same coin toss for the victory — unique per demo clip.

One more note --- for music with my current settings. The BOSS platform with my generic 24hz 12/dB linkwitz shelf filter (and my MBQuart drivers) activates insanely at the lowest frequencies, but doesn't do much above those frequencies so it seems (at least with no PEQ) to be very clearly only activating on the lowest notes. I.E., if I'm listing to music there's nothing in Diana Crawl with the BOSS platform, in some modern top 40 music a few notes jiggle you around, but most you feel nothing, and finally dubstep makes you wobble around like you’re on a fishing dock in a lake full of jello. In contrast, with the same settings, the direct mount MB Quart driver let's me feel every frequency all the way up to kick drums in a increasingly diminished manner as the frequency increases -- it feels like the LPF shelf says it should (or perhaps how the EQ shelf looks like it should feel). I'm sure I could get the BOSS platform build to be more even handed as it fades up in frequency with some additional tinkering and manual PEQ -- this isn't to take away from the BOSS build -- just describing the current clear difference between the two different builds. Both feel on the whole very natural, and better to me than any traditional tactile transducer. The BOSS platform just seems to take better advantage of the ISOs for some reason.
@Archaea - nice write up and comparison of the direct mount vs platform!! Great stuff!! (I tried not to quote the whole thing)

Pros and cons to both it sounds like. Maybe that's partially why I'm really loving the full riser platform actually setting on the floor (although it is a suspended floor I'm on so that probably makes a difference), as it doesn't really feel as 'jigglly', even with isos on top (softens it just enough and brings fluidity) and really does feel like the LPF looks and is supposed to, as well as super quick and still way powerful, especially down deep into ULF territory, and stays feeling that way even when cranked way up. So maybe kind of a cross between the normal 'floating' BOSS platform and your direct mount possibly?
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post #2342 of 2406 Old 05-16-2019, 06:38 AM
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I definitely prefer a lot of TR up to 30Hz or so. I had the BOSS LPF up to 40Hz and also tried 35Hz and both those were a little too high for my tastes during full reference level movie sessions, fun for demos but too intense. I recently lowered it to 30Hz/12dB and it seems to be the sweet spot for me, but others are running lower at 20-25Hz.

I find TR is easily adjusted to taste with the BOSS, more so than dialing in subwoofer levels for optimal slam. I run the MA’s with the same settings and feel it’s comfortable. There’s so many variables in every system, go with whatever you’re happy with.

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post #2343 of 2406 Old 05-16-2019, 06:42 AM - Thread Starter
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BOSS platform tuning

This is probably as good a time as any.....thought it might be beneficial to re-post the BOSS platform tuning guidelines for those with platforms and want to experiment more with tuning the suspension, so to speak, for a custom experience.

This was from post 1135 waaaaaay back in early April. Since then, there's been 2 more tweaks I wanted to mention..... @SBuger 's, no isolator (carpet and padding only) approach to stiffening the BOSS platform suspension instead of 2d and 2e below. This is actually how I ran my original full size riser BOSS for a couple months before placing isolators on just one side of it for an even better BOSS experience....don't be afraid to experiment.

And, the second tweak, increasing and decreasing the gap between the mini-riser version of the BOSS and the floor below. Surprisingly, I've seen 2 applications now where decreasing the gap has increased up and down motion of the BOSS platform. I haven't tested as to why this is...still brainstorming a test plan, but one theory is what I call the "hovercraft theory". Think of how many square inches are under the mini-riser BOSS platform, then multiply that area by say .1 psi......the forcing function provided by this pressure can add to the mechanical forcing function of the drivers alone and combine for additional "floatiness" and up and down motion.

Just wanted to mention these tuning options as the BOSS builds are proliferating now and each build is unique. I don't think I've seen any one BOSS build yet that has been the same...not even close. All seem to have pretty drastic differences in design and implementation which I think is so awesome.

Don't be afraid to experiment beyond what's mentioned below or above, especially if you have a mini-riser or full size riser BOSS. These platforms lend themselves to many experiments if approached with an open mind.

Keep on BOSS'ing!

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Originally Posted by trhought View Post
tvuong....great questions....the isolators are one of the dials you can turn with your BOSS system once you get it up and running. As I stated to Shelby in a few posts above, there's also other dials that can be used to get a custom experience depending on personal preference.

Those dials are below (Item 2, the isolators are what you're asking about). I've added more detail about each of these dials for those interested. Keep in mind, the post 29 BOSS implementation is the tested and approved method and is the best starting point. But for those who wants to experiment, the BOSS dials are:

1. Input forcing function

1a The type of driver (moving mass and excursion response)....JBL GX/CX1200 and CS1214 are the tested and approved drivers. The more moving mass and excursion, the more forcing function power you'll have available in your BOSS design to dial it back if needed using less power.

1b Input power - 80 watts is the tested and approved power with the prescribed JBL's. Don't be afraid to reduce the power to your BOSS also. That will change the overall dynamic response of your platform and is the easiest thing to try first.

1c Shape of that power going to the driver.....no DSP is the tested and approved method with the JBLs as prescribed using a sub feed from your AVR. If you have access to DSP and want to use that method to change the behavior of your BOSS system instead of the mechanical methods, that may be an easier approach since it can be accomplished easily and without much physical work.

2. The isolators

2a Number of isolators....the tested an approved number can be determined by following the guidelines in post 29. See 2c and 2d below for more details on options of changing your BOSS platform behavior using different numbers of isolators.

2b The location of isolators....for a mini-riser, follow the guidelines in post 29 to keep the platform stable. For a full size riser, location isn't as critical and a lot more options are available from no isolators at all (don't be afraid to try that with a full size riser) to as many as you can fit under the platform.

2c In-series...placing the isolators on top of one another makes the BOSS suspension softer. Series isn't recommended but those may like the effect when combined with other factors in your room or your specific BOSS design.

2d in-parallel...placing the isolators side by side makes the BOSS suspension stiffer. In-parallel isn't recommended but those who want to experiment may find the feeling better depending on other factors in your room and your specific BOSS design.

2e Isolators on one side of a full size riser only.....this is another way to changes the softness and stiffness of the BOSS suspension. Through my BOSS testing with a full size (very stiff) platform, I've found isolators under one side or on all sides to be about the same effect. It just increases or decreases the platform stiffness using the 2c and 2d rules above plus reducing loading on each isolator. Please note: if you have a mini-riser, isolators are needed underneath all sides of the platform in a uniform fashion as prescribed in post 29.

These are the dials I know of so far.....maybe a few others will be discovered along the way also.

Hope this helps.
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post #2344 of 2406 Old 05-16-2019, 07:16 AM
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How are most people cutting their BOSS driver holes?

With my double thick ply build, I cut 3 holes on each board with my router and then lined them up. If moving up to a 6 driver BOSS, 12 holes will take a while with this method. I’ve used a Milescraft circle guide with my router for all my sub drivers before, but it’s a lot more time consuming to get two layers cut out correctly and requires multiple passes with depth adjusted per hole. Should I get to a second riser build, I’d rather speed things along. I don’t have a jasper jig, and figure it’s not necessary, since I can make a homemade one to mark the proper hole size, but I could pick one up if needed.

Would gluing both boards together and then cutting through 1.5” be faster? Seems like it would be as long as my cheap little jigsaw can handle it...trying not to buy a better jigsaw while at the home store, must resist. I have a lot of time off the next two weeks, so the project wheels are turning.

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post #2345 of 2406 Old 05-16-2019, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post
Here's my take after a couple hours of demoing back and forth, between BOSS platform and direct chair mount with the exact same amplifier settings and power going to each MB Quart driver. 24hz high cut shelf at 12/dB per octave in the DSP. Voltage limiter engaged - 40 watts maxed for two subwoofers. I wasn't hitting the limiter and the subs weren't making any bad feel/sound -- I played a lot of music, and movie clips - movie clips off the scubasteve demo disk2.

Direct Chair mount setup: More natural feeling
BOSS platform: More jello jiggly vertical bounce feeling by probably 50% at the same settings, with the exact same power.
Good stuff, Jonathan. Looking at your pictures, it makes sense what you were describing that BOSS platform bounces more as the driver shakes the platform directly onto the Hudson Isos whereas with direct chair mount, the driver shakes the board your seat screwed into which moves your seat on top of the Hudson Isos (kind of indirectly). Since you like the more natural feeling and also like the more bouncing factor, how about meeting halfway by removing 2 of the 4 Hudson Isos on the BOSS platform and replace them two with 2 pieces of hardwood or something more solid like rubber chair legs?

https://www.amazon.com/Mintcraft-500...s%2C173&sr=8-1
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post #2346 of 2406 Old 05-16-2019, 08:05 AM
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How are most people cutting their BOSS driver holes? ...Would gluing both boards together and then cutting through 1.5” be faster?
I'd just clamp the boards together or use a few brads if you just want to keep them positioned properly for cutting. That should be more than sufficient unless you want to glue the boards together for structural purposes. I took 3 passes with my router for each hole. I could have easily done it two but I wanted to make sure to limit the "tearout" on the final pass. I'd rather use my router & jig than use a jigsaw to do it. I don't know if it's faster, but for me it's certainly easier to get perfect circles.

I just did this yesterday and found myself questioning the benefit of a 2nd layer of plywood so that I could recess the drivers flush & use a radius'd lip on the bottom - like a proper horn mouth. I decided the juice wasn't worth the squeeze - or the additional weight & expense. Since we're dealing with ULF, I don't think it'll matter as much as with mids&highs.

To the point about "hovercraft effect". This is one of the things I was getting at when I asked the question about the BOSS principle of operation. I've been considering putting skirts on my couch platform for that reason Intuitively, it just seems to me that since there is such a small amount of mass being accelerated(relative to the mass of the couch & victim..er viewers) at such low frequencies, the the bulk of the work should be done by other means. Since acoustic energy is inherently weak, that put my focus on the reaction to the pnuematic work being done against the floor as the "prime mover".

For those wishing to experiment, I'd like to know if there would be any change in the "BOSS effect" observed, by placing some towels (maybe wrapped in saran wrap?) around & under the perimeter of the base or the union(wherever the Isolators are positioned) of the platform & furniture base, to impede the flow of the escaping air by creating a skirt.

One other concept under consideration is the idea of using small tire innertubes for isolation so that the spring rate could be made tunable.

Last edited by Longeze; 05-16-2019 at 08:15 AM.
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post #2347 of 2406 Old 05-16-2019, 08:54 AM - Thread Starter
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So, a bit off topic, but wanted to mention since I've seen lots of mention of using DSP with BOSS platforms which makes so much sense......having the ability to shape the ULF response of your system is a powerful thing.

Wanted to mention another option I've been using.....BEQ remux. This approach probably isn't for everyone, very few I would guess, but I've listed a couple positives and negatives with this approach if interested.

Positives for BEQ remux

1. User friendly living room or theater....anyone who uses your living room or theater, can experience BEQ that's fine tuned for the room and equipment and they don't need to be a techy to do so. This is especially good if you travel a lot like me but your family still likes to use the theater or living room to it's fullest capability while you're away.
2. Can shape the ULF and TR exactly for your listening environment and system capability. If you know your systems strengths and weaknesses already, that can be used when designing your own BEQ's.
3. Can be used to tweak music exactly how you want it to sound....if you want great kick drums on a certain album, BEQ accordingly. If some albums make great use of atmospheric synthesizers that reach way down low, BEQ accordingly to bring out that ULF....some examples that comes to mind are studio albums from the rock bands "Muse" and "Porcupine Tree" and music concerts such as "Metallica"
4. Don't need to invest in a mini-DSP or other methods of applying DSP
5. BEQ remux allows more fine-tuning than using mini-DSP (more filters can be applied)
6. BEQ can be applied to any channel in the mix....if your favorite movie is lacking in surround effects to your liking, just add a gain to those channels using BEQ remux.

Negatives for BEQ remux

1. Only 5.1 or 7.1 bed channels....overhead sound will have to be upmixed which I've found is pretty effective with today's upmixers...especially Auro-Matic.
2. Somewhat steep learning curve to become fluent with the BEQ designer application....as is the case with most design tools that offer so much power and flexibility
3. Takes about 20-30 minutes for each movie or music album to be remuxed and placed onto your local movie/music server
4. Possibility of clipping the signal chain if the BEQ remux isn't done correctly....this has to do with applying filters before bass management in your processor but is easily avoided once learning BEQ remux
5. Can sometimes be an iterative process....if the BEQ was too aggressive for your system or not enough, then another BEQ remux will be needed.

If the above hasn't scared you away yet and you want to learn more about BEQ remux, below is a link to the awesome user's guide that @3ll3d00d wrote to accompany his super powerful BEQ designer app.

https://beqdesigner.readthedocs.io/e...i/remux_audio/
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post #2348 of 2406 Old 05-16-2019, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Sekosche View Post
How are most people cutting their BOSS driver holes?
I cut mine at work on one of these. A Sandvik jigsaw. Could have used the laser but I didn't want to wait.

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post #2349 of 2406 Old 05-16-2019, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sekosche View Post
How are most people cutting their BOSS driver holes?

With my double thick ply build, I cut 3 holes on each board with my router and then lined them up. If moving up to a 6 driver BOSS, 12 holes will take a while with this method. I’ve used a Milescraft circle guide with my router for all my sub drivers before, but it’s a lot more time consuming to get two layers cut out correctly and requires multiple passes with depth adjusted per hole. Should I get to a second riser build, I’d rather speed things along. I don’t have a jasper jig, and figure it’s not necessary, since I can make a homemade one to mark the proper hole size, but I could pick one up if needed.

Would gluing both boards together and then cutting through 1.5” be faster? Seems like it would be as long as my cheap little jigsaw can handle it...trying not to buy a better jigsaw while at the home store, must resist. I have a lot of time off the next two weeks, so the project wheels are turning.
I cut my first three holes for the new MBQuarts last night with.... a jigsaw! I know that probably don't help. I used my 20v DeWalt with a longer than typical blade (2.25" I believe) and it cut through the 2 inches of plywood quite easily.

Besides - when is buying a new tool ever a bad option?
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post #2350 of 2406 Old 05-16-2019, 09:21 AM - Thread Starter
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I'd just clamp the boards together or use a few brads if you just want to keep them positioned properly for cutting. That should be more than sufficient unless you want to glue the boards together for structural purposes. I took 3 passes with my router for each hole. I could have easily done it two but I wanted to make sure to limit the "tearout" on the final pass. I'd rather use my router & jig than use a jigsaw to do it. I don't know if it's faster, but for me it's certainly easier to get perfect circles.

I just did this yesterday and found myself questioning the benefit of a 2nd layer of plywood so that I could recess the drivers flush & use a radius'd lip on the bottom - like a proper horn mouth. I decided the juice wasn't worth the squeeze - or the additional weight & expense. Since we're dealing with ULF, I don't think it'll matter as much as with mids&highs.

To the point about "hovercraft effect". This is one of the things I was getting at when I asked the question about the BOSS principle of operation. I've been considering putting skirts on my couch platform for that reason Intuitively, it just seems to me that since there is such a small amount of mass being accelerated(relative to the mass of the couch & victim..er viewers) at such low frequencies, the the bulk of the work should be done by other means. Since acoustic energy is inherently weak, that put my focus on the reaction to the pnuematic work being done against the floor as the "prime mover".

For those wishing to experiment, I'd like to know if there would be any change in the "BOSS effect" observed, by placing some towels (maybe wrapped in saran wrap?) around & under the perimeter of the base or the union(wherever the Isolators are positioned) of the platform & furniture base, to impede the flow of the escaping air by creating a skirt.

One other concept under consideration is the idea of using small tire innertubes for isolation so that the spring rate could be made tunable.
Longeze....great minds think alike for the bold above. I haven't done any experiments yet, but mentioned to @Archaea a couple weeks ago about experimenting with my mini-riser BOSS. The context of that conversation at the time was to concentrate windage from underneath the platform to your legs for an extra 4D effect if you will. I was going to simply stuff pillows or clothes around the platform to block escape passages and concentrate it towards the front of the riser then put a deflector shield of some sort on front of the platform to see how much windage comes up towards my legs. At the same time I was thinking about the "hovercraft" effect and was going to take note of any additional TR effects at the time of the experiment. This could actually reduce the TR also if the back pressure starts to limit the cone excursion. Like many things, there will probably be a sweet spot for finding the right amount of "skirtage" to optimize the hovercraft effect with the cone moving mass effect for optimum TR feel.

Since then, swim season is here and most of my free time at home has been outside around the pool and not much motivation to start any indoor projects right now

The small inner tube idea is intriguing. This idea came up in this thread a couple times over the last few months, but I was always thinking of the air springs that the automotive industry uses for auto-leveling vehicles....never did I think of the small inner tubes like you mention....like bicycle inner tubes specifically. An interesting idea to explore to see what else may be possible, especially if that inner tube can be used for 2 purposes, as skirting to enhance the hovercraft effect and providing the duty of the isolators. I'm thinking they could even be used to channel the windage from the drivers to the front of the platform for the 4D windage effect....interesting...
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post #2351 of 2406 Old 05-16-2019, 10:11 AM
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....like bicycle inner tubes specifically. An interesting idea to explore to see what else may be possible, especially if that inner tube can be used for 2 purposes, as skirting to enhance the hovercraft effect and providing the duty of the isolators. ...
Really clever! I love concepts that merge functionality & promote greater engineering economy. I suppose the next logical progression would be to incorporate some large check valves to optimize the effect? I'm thinking some rubber flaps attached at the top & placed inside of several ~8"Dia. openings - 1/driver?
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post #2352 of 2406 Old 05-16-2019, 12:03 PM
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I’m all for experimenting; but, I think this is getting a little silly. I love the shaking between 30-20hz. But, I want it to feel as natural as possible. I wouldn’t want to exaggerate the floating feeling that never really happens with bass.


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post #2353 of 2406 Old 05-16-2019, 12:06 PM - Thread Starter
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^^^^ Great idea @Longeze Trying to think of low cost ways to do this now
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post #2354 of 2406 Old 05-16-2019, 12:07 PM
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I think we should start a list of "BOSS Friendly" theater chairs. We hope to replace our seating soon and it would be nice to get something that has a recessed area for the driver so that the platform can be kept as compact as possible.
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post #2355 of 2406 Old 05-16-2019, 12:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Rowan611 View Post
I’m all for experimenting; but, I think this is getting a little silly. I love the shaking between 30-20hz. But, I want it to feel as natural as possible. I wouldn’t want to exaggerate the floating feeling that never really happens with bass.
Yeah, keeping true to the BOSS roots, it would still have to feel natural...I think that's been the biggest appeal of the BOSS so far. That, and of course, the low cost price point.

Having said that, these ideas could possibly create the same effect with even less cost (think smaller drivers, a couple inner tubes instead of $80 worth of isolators, etc.) Or, maybe even enhance the BOSS experience or allow it to scale to other applications....the power of brainstorming! Won't know for sure until some of these ideas are tested.

As they say, nothing ventured, nothing gained....or one of my favorites "Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new" - Albert Einstein
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post #2356 of 2406 Old 05-16-2019, 12:35 PM - Thread Starter
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I think we should start a list of "BOSS Friendly" theater chairs. We hope to replace our seating soon and it would be nice to get something that has a recessed area for the driver so that the platform can be kept as compact as possible.
Love the idea! I could keep a running list of approved BOSS chairs similar to the approved BOSS driver list. If members who've been able to accommodate a mini-riser BOSS or direct mount BOSS driver to the bottom of your chairs, let me know and I'll start the list. Just thinking out loud.....probably need the make and model plus maybe a model year or manufacture date in case there's variations over the years...dunno. One arrangement that comes to mind is @DesertDog 's BOSS-Sac.....that modular furniture design was made for a BOSS! There's probably others out there that I don't remember.
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post #2357 of 2406 Old 05-16-2019, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by trhought View Post



Having said that, these ideas could possibly create the same effect with even less cost (think smaller drivers, a couple inner tubes instead of $80 worth of isolators, etc.)
I never thought anyone would have to worry about their couch getting a flat. Lol

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post #2358 of 2406 Old 05-16-2019, 12:39 PM - Thread Starter
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^^^^ ROTFL.....yeah, getting flats and having to re-tune the BOSS suspension based on mileage of the platform and the furniture
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post #2359 of 2406 Old 05-16-2019, 01:40 PM
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Guys,

Going to experiment with six of these really inexpensive drivers in a dual platform BOSS setup for a game room. I will let everyone know how they work in the next few weeks.

Jim

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post #2360 of 2406 Old 05-16-2019, 03:02 PM
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I'd just clamp the boards together or use a few brads if you just want to keep them positioned properly for cutting. That should be more than sufficient unless you want to glue the boards together for structural purposes. I took 3 passes with my router for each hole. I could have easily done it two but I wanted to make sure to limit the "tearout" on the final pass. I'd rather use my router & jig than use a jigsaw to do it. I don't know if it's faster, but for me it's certainly easier to get perfect circles.

Perfect circles is why I use the router and guide, but it is pretty time consuming. I’m going to countersink the drivers 1/2” this time to avoid adding spacers; maybe the couch will levitate better this way with minimal space between the ground but safe clearance for the drivers.

This will be a quicker build anyway having all the measurements done and will bust out the brad nailer, so I guess double the driver cuts won’t really matter. I haven’t used a jigsaw much freehand, so I’ll stick with what works for me...slow and steady.

Guess I’ll go all out for the this build and do it proper, have never been one to cut corners. 6 driver BOSS should be done by tomorrow night.
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post #2361 of 2406 Old 05-16-2019, 04:26 PM
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I received my sorbothane 70 Duro today. They are close to the same as the silicon iso's in their firmness. They are easier to push on but don't compress like the 30 duro did. I ran just a few quick scenes that the 30 duro would kill outright and they came through fine.

They don't have as hard a ride like the silicon do at 30hz which I find to be a good thing personally. They only sent me 4 back at this time, they are interested in some feedback and have the ability to pour into the molds whatever is wanted if these don't hit the mark. I don't see a supply issue with these like the Hudson's seem to have. Initial thoughts are these might work out great. Im going to use them for a few days and see.
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post #2362 of 2406 Old 05-16-2019, 05:43 PM
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Looks like I will be picking up an NX1000D amp and use each channel to power 3 MBQuarts, one bank for each platform. It looks like I can configure the MBQuarts as either 2.7 ohms or 6 ohms. Is there any advantage of one over the other?

Looks like I'll have a spare 6000DSP. Those 24's might be closer than I think...

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post #2363 of 2406 Old 05-16-2019, 05:48 PM
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^^^probably be better off with more smaller subs though...

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post #2364 of 2406 Old 05-16-2019, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by brazensol View Post
Looks like I will be picking up an NX1000D amp and use each channel to power 3 MBQuarts, one bank for each platform. It looks like I can configure the MBQuarts as either 2.7 ohms or 6 ohms. Is there any advantage of one over the other?



Looks like I'll have a spare 6000DSP. Those 24's might be closer than I think...


I’d chose 6 ohms. It’s easier on the amp to drive and it’ll still be enough power for 3 MB Quarts.
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post #2365 of 2406 Old 05-16-2019, 06:34 PM
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I’d chose 6 ohms. It’s easier on the amp to drive and it’ll still be enough power for 3 MB Quarts.
Thank you! I thought that might be the way to go but I thought it best to ask others who know far more than I do.

I currently know just about enough to be extremely dangerous...

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post #2366 of 2406 Old 05-16-2019, 08:55 PM
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Watched Bumblebee tonight - tons of bass. Personally i love having the BOSS on for the whole movie. I have it now being fed strictly by the LFE channel, no redirected bass, and its perfect. The subs still deliver the pressure and impact and the BOSS delivers the bounce and shake.
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post #2367 of 2406 Old 05-17-2019, 01:39 AM
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Watched Bumblebee tonight - tons of bass. Personally i love having the BOSS on for the whole movie. I have it now being fed strictly by the LFE channel, no redirected bass, and its perfect. The subs still deliver the pressure and impact and the BOSS delivers the bounce and shake.
I also watched Bumblebee last night, and the damn BOSS kept waking me up, so it must be working perfectly . I have to re-watch the movie another night when not so tired.
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post #2368 of 2406 Old 05-17-2019, 08:13 AM
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I have it now being fed strictly by the LFE channel, no redirected bass, and its perfect.
Isn’t it the only way to feed the boss? Perhaps you meant feeding the boss full range LFE with no LPF?
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post #2369 of 2406 Old 05-17-2019, 08:14 AM
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I also watched Bumblebee last night, and the damn BOSS kept waking me up
Hahaha
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post #2370 of 2406 Old 05-17-2019, 11:45 AM
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Time Delay

How do you guys set time delay for the BOSS? Is a setting the same that would be used for very close NF which would have large delay. Or is it better to set for same as furthest placed sub? I'm sure the answer is a preference thing but it just has me wondering...

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