First Dedicated 7.2.4 Setup - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 19 Old 08-14-2018, 05:30 PM - Thread Starter
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First Dedicated 7.2.4 Setup

I'd love to get some feedback on all of the components that I've selected to go into my dedicated room. This is a new build home, the wiring has all been done, with the drywall going up tomorrow. Although the husband is an electrician so if we need to reconfigure something then I can always put him to work.

Room Dimensions: 18'6" x 12' with 4'3.5"x 2' bump for equipment. Ceilings are 8'. There's a 6'x12'x1' riser for the second row.

85% Movies 15% Music, but the movies that I gravitate towards have powerful scores/soundtracks

I'd say 90% of the time it will just be two people utilizing the room.

The first row viewing distance is about 10' from the screen, the second row is about 17.5' from the screen. The projector will be 11' from the screen.

Sources: BluRay mostly, streaming through laptop occasionally, the husband briefly mentioned he'd like the option to watch football on it. He will not be playing any video games on it due to latency.

Components:

Projector: Optoma UHD65
Screen: Elite Screens 110"
Receiver: Denon x4300 & AudioSource 2 channel amp (Though, to be honest this I could go different ways. I've also thought of just getting a Denon x6300 or 6400)
Front left/right speakers: Revel M16
Center speaker: Revel C25
Side and rear speakers: Revel S16
Ceiling speakers: Micca M-8C
Subwoofer: HSU VTF-3 MK5 or HSU VTF-15H MK2 (Will probably start with one subwoofer and add a second one down the line.)
Bluray Player: Honestly, haven't even picked one out.



Are there any glaring issues? Something I should be wary of or just ponder on a bit more before we pull the trigger? We do still have some time before we have to start buying the components as we probably won't be moving in until November.

Thanks in advance!
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post #2 of 19 Old 08-15-2018, 05:24 AM
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@R.Miranda
Good start on the plan.
Here's a couple of things to be concerned with..

Maximum height of any step in living zone is 7-3/4" per Residential building code. Add step to get onto riser, 1 on either side of the first row.
Consider your strategy for sound control. You may want to do clips and channel and dual layers of drywall. Make sure you insulate all walls, including ceiling and floor. Door should be solid core.
Follow Dolby Atmos spec's as best you can as far as placement of speakers.
Make sure you pull in dedicated circuits of power to the equipment rack. 3x 20amp circuits. addtionally, have an entire room circuit for vacuum/power chairs. 1x for the subwoofer(s) on screen wall.
Install a back feed romex power circuit from the rack to the Projector location to be able to run it off of a UPS in the rack.
Hard wood floors in front of the first row of seating is a huge reflection point. Consider changing floor type or add a throw rug.
Projector located over row 1 could be annoying noise you may not want to have.. consider moving PJ further back depending on throw distance...
Install plenty of lights into the room. You can always use a dimmer switch if it's too bright to see into the room.

Signature is awesome! WAF is an A-Plus! Nice to see the opposite gender taking a lead on design in a room


Good luck on the build..

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post #3 of 19 Old 08-15-2018, 07:31 AM - Thread Starter
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The husband has harped about having a step for the riser, so we'll probably add one. Curious that the riser didn't get dinged when the framing inspector came through. Will check into that.

We've insulated all of the stud spacing around the room. If we decide that we want to keep the sound down even more we might do a second layer of drywall down the road. Door is solid core.

The mock-up doesn't have the speakers EXACTLY as we placed them in the room, but we wired them almost exactly how they should be based off of Atmos specs. With plenty of wire to play around with when the speakers officially go in.

The electrician put the theater room on it's own dedicated breakers because he knew just how much power the room was going to take, so we should be good there. I'll look into running the romex.

Room is ENTIRELY carpet, I just didn't bother changing the flooring in the mockup. I'd never ruin the theater room with hard surface flooring.

Will definitely think about the projector above us, we left plenty of cabling up there too.

We've got a mix of cans and sconces in the room, plan is to install those on dimmers.

Regarding the signature, the husband loves to point out to everybody that I'm the one driving for us to always have a bigger TV with better speakers. And from reading on the forums and meeting with professionals about this room, I'm well aware that I'm like some mythical unicorn.

Thanks so much!

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post #4 of 19 Old 08-15-2018, 01:06 PM
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post #5 of 19 Old 08-15-2018, 02:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Oh yeah, those steps are so much better than I was picturing. I'll get the builder on those straight away! Thanks for the suggestion.

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post #6 of 19 Old 08-15-2018, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
Those steps are amazing, much easier for people and less tripping! I just changed that for my riser that I want to build as well (room is 17' x 14').

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post #7 of 19 Old 08-16-2018, 07:55 AM
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Double check that throw distance. I'm assuming your screen is 16:9 which puts you at the near end of the projectors ability to project a 110" screen (maybe even an inch or two short). That is assuming 11' from screen to lens. You might want to separate screen to lens a little bit more to give yourself some breathing room. Now if this is 110" scope you definitely won't make it.

Another reason you might want to set the projector back more is equipment changes over time but the room remains. Will the next projector be able to project the screen size you want from the 11' mount. You know the room best but make sure you have thought of these things before final decisions.
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post #8 of 19 Old 08-16-2018, 11:12 AM
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yes if we are talking about a 110 diagonal 16:9 screen, the projector lens to screen needs to be 11'2" to 17'10". It also needs to be 1 to 8 inches above the screen image, no lower or higher. Personally you might want to go up one screen size if your main viewing is the back row. Some guys would even want it bigger for the front row if you will be watching a lot of 2.35 content. The bigger the screen the further back the projector needs to sit and the measurements are to the lens not to the ceiling mount.
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post #9 of 19 Old 08-16-2018, 01:41 PM
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LOL I'm loving the "mythical unicorn" comment from the poster Welcome to the journey of building a home theater! One thing that I would comment on is your point about possibly adding a 2nd layer of drywall down the road. I'm not the expert in this field, but having hired the experts and gone through the entire build for mine, I would not even mess with the 2nd layer unless you are planning on taking all the steps to isolate sound (decoupling the room from the floor and frame basically). That extra funding could go towards getting another sub to help even out the low frequencies in the room or a different projector since you mentioned lag would be an issue.

Also, I'd recommend looking into Rythmik subs.
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post #10 of 19 Old 08-16-2018, 02:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Houe View Post
Double check that throw distance. I'm assuming your screen is 16:9 which puts you at the near end of the projectors ability to project a 110" screen (maybe even an inch or two short). That is assuming 11' from screen to lens. You might want to separate screen to lens a little bit more to give yourself some breathing room. Now if this is 110" scope you definitely won't make it.

Another reason you might want to set the projector back more is equipment changes over time but the room remains. Will the next projector be able to project the screen size you want from the 11' mount. You know the room best but make sure you have thought of these things before final decisions.

I want to make sure that I'm understanding the Optoma's throw distance right. Here's the table that's included in the manual for it.

The good news, with regards to moving it around the room, is that there's a really large attic above it so we've got easy access to all of the stuff that goes up there. And I guess when I always mention how far back the projector is from the screen I've got lens distance not mount distance.
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post #11 of 19 Old 08-16-2018, 02:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
yes if we are talking about a 110 diagonal 16:9 screen, the projector lens to screen needs to be 11'2" to 17'10". It also needs to be 1 to 8 inches above the screen image, no lower or higher. Personally you might want to go up one screen size if your main viewing is the back row. Some guys would even want it bigger for the front row if you will be watching a lot of 2.35 content. The bigger the screen the further back the projector needs to sit and the measurements are to the lens not to the ceiling mount.
I guess I haven't thought too much about 2.35 content, makes sense to ponder that. I'll have to double check to make sure that the width of the room can handle a wider screen and the speakers beside it. We'll primarily be watching from the front row, that's where I've been basing the primary listening position.

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post #12 of 19 Old 08-16-2018, 02:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jedi1982 View Post
LOL I'm loving the "mythical unicorn" comment from the poster Welcome to the journey of building a home theater! One thing that I would comment on is your point about possibly adding a 2nd layer of drywall down the road. I'm not the expert in this field, but having hired the experts and gone through the entire build for mine, I would not even mess with the 2nd layer unless you are planning on taking all the steps to isolate sound (decoupling the room from the floor and frame basically). That extra funding could go towards getting another sub to help even out the low frequencies in the room or a different projector since you mentioned lag would be an issue.

Also, I'd recommend looking into Rythmik subs.

lol, thanks! In all honesty, I don't know how likely we'd ever go the route of a second layer of drywall, it's just the two of us in this house and we're in the country. With regards to the sub, do you have a recommendation based on the room dimensions and the speaker line-up? And with the lag...eh, the movie theater is primarily for me, my husband has leaned into playing his xbox games via his computer monitor. He says he likes that a lot more just due to the quicker response time.

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post #13 of 19 Old 08-16-2018, 02:57 PM
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You really REALLY should consider going with a Painted Screen wall....no Formatting restrictions.....almost infinite freedom as far as size determination. (...room/viewing distance limitations still apply...)


Incorporating the Screen Wall color into the Theater's decor is easy. best of all, you'll save enough cash to easily justify a Receiver upgrade. And since your really wanting 7.2.4, saving where you can (...without compromising audio / video quality...) could spell the difference between have....and have not.

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post #14 of 19 Old 08-16-2018, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by R.Miranda View Post
lol, thanks! In all honesty, I don't know how likely we'd ever go the route of a second layer of drywall, it's just the two of us in this house and we're in the country. With regards to the sub, do you have a recommendation based on the room dimensions and the speaker line-up? And with the lag...eh, the movie theater is primarily for me, my husband has leaned into playing his xbox games via his computer monitor. He says he likes that a lot more just due to the quicker response time.
I'd ask @enricoclaudio over at the Rythmik forum Rythmik Forum what he would deliver the best results for your room. You can always call them as well as are helpful!
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post #15 of 19 Old 08-16-2018, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
You really REALLY should consider going with a Painted Screen wall....no Formatting restrictions.....almost infinite freedom as far as size determination. (...room/viewing distance limitations still apply...)


Incorporating the Screen Wall color into the Theater's decor is easy. best of all, you'll save enough cash to easily justify a Receiver upgrade. And since your really wanting 7.2.4, saving where you can (...without compromising audio / video quality...) could spell the difference between have....and have not.
an extension of this idea is to just shine the projector on a blank wall, experiment with sizes and format, then either do a formal painted screen with the recommended materials or buy a regular screen. There is really no rush to have a screen on the day the theater opens. Making a mistake on your first screen size is a common occurance. I made it on mine.
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post #16 of 19 Old 08-19-2018, 02:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
You really REALLY should consider going with a Painted Screen wall....no Formatting restrictions.....almost infinite freedom as far as size determination. (...room/viewing distance limitations still apply...)


Incorporating the Screen Wall color into the Theater's decor is easy. best of all, you'll save enough cash to easily justify a Receiver upgrade. And since your really wanting 7.2.4, saving where you can (...without compromising audio / video quality...) could spell the difference between have....and have not.
I'm now hesitant to go the painted screen route as the drywallers misunderstood where the center speaker wire was supposed to come out of the wall. So there will be more seams on the projected wall than there were supposed to be. Doesn't a painted screen have to be perfectly smooth? Plus the savings doesn't seem that great given the cost of the screen that I'm looking at.

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post #17 of 19 Old 08-19-2018, 02:32 PM
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Just a little info on drywall finishes, you can eliminate all seams if you want, you just need someone skilled in a level 5 finish.

https://www.thespruce.com/the-five-l...ishing-4120152

I still recommend shining the projector on a blank wall and once you determine the size screen you want order it.
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post #18 of 19 Old 08-22-2018, 07:44 AM
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Yes.. I agree with BIG on the screen purchase, and so will my wife. lol

Don't be like sirjaymz!
I ordered the first one... was too anxious. Silver Ticket 106" non-AT..sold on CL for 1/2 price.. ugg.. lost $250.
Order the 2nd one, thinking I just needed to have a larger screen.. went to 120" non-at, sold on CL for same price. Broke even basically.
Order the 3rd screen Went to 110" 16x9 AT screen. Build continued...
Changed the projector to a 2.35 capable format... 3rd screen sitting in closet.. waiting for new home.. <please see signature >
Order 4th screen, ie, the one that is hanging on the wall. SeymourAV 120" Wide, 130"diag, AT, Center Stage XD. All happy at the END of the Build. Definitely wait till the end of the build...
Dont' be like sirjaymz buying so many screens.
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post #19 of 19 Old 08-23-2018, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sirjaymz View Post
Yes.. I agree with BIG on the screen purchase, and so will my wife. lol

Don't be like sirjaymz!
I ordered the first one... was too anxious. Silver Ticket 106" non-AT..sold on CL for 1/2 price.. ugg.. lost $250.
Order the 2nd one, thinking I just needed to have a larger screen.. went to 120" non-at, sold on CL for same price. Broke even basically.
Order the 3rd screen Went to 110" 16x9 AT screen. Build continued...
Changed the projector to a 2.35 capable format... 3rd screen sitting in closet.. waiting for new home.. <please see signature >
Order 4th screen, ie, the one that is hanging on the wall. SeymourAV 120" Wide, 130"diag, AT, Center Stage XD. All happy at the END of the Build. Definitely wait till the end of the build...
Dont' be like sirjaymz buying so many screens.
I kind of know what you mean, but I am still on my first screen (104" wide 120" diagonal 16:9 Elite) It is ok for now, but after seeing what is in home theaters in my area I want bigger and AT. Aspect ratio is depending on how wide I go with the room and head space. Stay with about 14' to 15' width will stay with 16:9. If I go 17' wide or wider I will go with 2.35:1 to get under a beam. My current projector is just to get me through till 4K comes down as well. I am looking at having about a 21.5' throw, so the Sony, JVC or Espson 4K eshift's should work.
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