DMX Lighting - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 25 Old 09-03-2018, 03:34 PM - Thread Starter
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DMX Lighting DIN rail install

I am looking at redoing the lighting and lighting control in the theater.

Current lighting control is a PCS SceneMaster with 4 channels. I have a wall switch that turns on the lights when entering the theater and a X10 RF remote to control the lights during the movie. This has worked great for years. But I would like to add more lighting to the room and need a way to control it. Since the current is X10 it is OLD technology and not readily available.


I am planning on using DMX to control all the lighting in the theater. I'am looking at the following:

Stick CU4 wall mounted DMX controler
LED Strip lighting in the sofit and around the screen
Chauvet SlimBerm Quad IRC for up/down lighting the screen
Chuavet DMX4 To control some of the existing lights

The wall mounted Stick CU4 can be used to control the lights when entering the theater. To keep thing simple, for everyone, I will add a decora wall switch with momentary contacts to trigger the dry contacts on the Stick CU4 for scene activation. I will also be ables to control scenes from the iPad. The iPad is also used to control the A/V system and the HVAC, so everything is controllable from the iPad.

I have done several searches trying to find other owners that have used DMX to control their theater lighting. I found a few but most have used Lutron DMX controls for some LED lighting strips but not the whole theater. So I was just looking for more input before buying all this. I have bought some items for testing but have not converted to DMX yet.
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post #2 of 25 Old 09-03-2018, 03:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Finally got to testing the RF remote triggering the different DMX scene. Below is a picture of the test rig. It has the DMX controller in upper right corner. Too the left is a 20 pin breakout board to make the 20 pin wiring a little easier. Below that is a grounding bus. and below that is the 4 channel/relay receiver. This receiver board gives me remote access to four scenes with a small four button transmitter.



Here is a sample of the DMX lighting in red. The ceiling lighting trays and screen lighting is all one color. You can have any element (west tray, east tray, back tray, step light, any of the 6 stage fan beams, and the center) a different color.



Here is a sample in Red White and Blue. The left ceiling trays match the first beam of the stage light as does the right most screen beam matching the right ceiling tray light.


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post #3 of 25 Old 12-11-2018, 11:06 PM
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I’m looking at doing something very similar: RGBW strips in ceiling, stage, platform steps, under seats, and 2 Chauvet SlimBerm Quad units. I’m wondering how the Stick CU4 worked as a controller. I wasn’t sure if I could control both RGBW strips and DMX512 fixtures. I was hoping to find a controller that supported 5 zones. Do you have any recommendations based on your experience?


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post #4 of 25 Old 12-12-2018, 12:17 PM
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There are DMX interfaces for RGB(W) LED strips. There are many expensive models out there from companies that are in the theatrical lighting business and then there are the cheap Chinese models.

Here's a $40 one that will do 4 strips: CHINLY 12 channel DMX 512 RGB LED strip controller dmx decoder dimmer driver DC5V-24V 5A/CH (12CH DMX 512 Decoder) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MSGZM..._V3veCbMPM3T2T
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post #5 of 25 Old 01-04-2019, 04:40 PM
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Weavinator, I just saw your reply. Thank you for replying. Does the Stick CU4 speak DMX512 or is it primarily for RGB(W) control? I’m looking for a wall-mount controller that can control RGBW LED lights and DMX.


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post #6 of 25 Old 01-23-2019, 05:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NF7J View Post
I’m looking at doing something very similar: RGBW strips in ceiling, stage, platform steps, under seats, and 2 Chauvet SlimBerm Quad units. I’m wondering how the Stick CU4 worked as a controller. I wasn’t sure if I could control both RGBW strips and DMX512 fixtures. I was hoping to find a controller that supported 5 zones. Do you have any recommendations based on your experience?


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The STICK-CU4 can control RGBW lighting strips with the use of a 4 channel DMX decoder (you can buy them on Amazon). The STICK-CU4 is a DMX master. This gives you unlimited control over any DMX lighting fixture. So you can not think of ZONES.

With DMX you use the Master to to send out DMX commands. You build the command using software or a DMX lighting board. With the STICK-CU4 you get a free copy of a software package called "Easy Stand Alone 2". Or as Nicolaude calles it EAS2. You use EAS2 to setup and address all your fixtures (lights, LED strips etx...). Then you create steps and combine steps into scenes. So a scene contains all the lighting fixtures you want to light your theater. Example; you might have a scene to ramp up your wall washing lights and tray lights. A second scene would dim the lights to black. You could have another scene to change all the lights to Red.

One feature I like about the STICK-CU4 is the 8 dry contact triggers. You can use these to trigger a scene. I have the 8 triggers connected to a RF wireless remote so I can dim the lights, from my seat when the movie starts. Or turn the light on when the movie is over.

The pictures of the sample lighting above use the Chauvet SlimBerm Quad units.
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post #7 of 25 Old 01-23-2019, 05:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NF7J View Post
Weavinator, I just saw your reply. Thank you for replying. Does the Stick CU4 speak DMX512 or is it primarily for RGB(W) control? I’m looking for a wall-mount controller that can control RGBW LED lights and DMX.
I wanted a very simple user interface to initial turn on the Theater lights. At first I thought the STICK-CU4 would be great. BUT the interface is not very user friendly. So I was going to use a momentary Decor light switch to fire off one of the 8 triggers. What I found that is even simpler solution. I have a light switch that just turns off the whole lighting control system. When someone turn on the theater light switch it turns on all the DMX lighting devices, The STICK-CU4, The RF remote, The LED power supplies, The RGBW DMX decoders, and the remaining DMX lighting fixtures, everything. The STICK-CU4 remembers the last lighting scene that was on when it was turned off. So the last lighting scene comes on. The other advantage of this is it save wear and tear on all your expensive lighting control system. Plus it is a super simple as it is just a normal every day light switch.

Another advantage of using a light switch is I installed a Leviton WiFi wall switch and I can now tell the Amazon Echo "Alexa turn on Theater Lights" and the theater light come on. Plus there is the Leviton app on my cell phone that also allows me to turn on/off the theater lights.

The answer your question above is NO, the STICK-CU4 does not speak RGBW. It only talks DMX512. But as mentioned above the STICK-CU4 can talk to a RGBW lighting strip via a DMX to RGBW decoder. They are as cheap as $18 on Amazon.

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post #8 of 25 Old 01-30-2019, 04:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Below is a block diagram of the different devices in my DMX lighting control system. There are three main devices, the DMX master, DMX decoders and the LED lights. You will also need some 12 and 5 volt power supply to drive the DMX master and the LED strip lights. The RF relay board is used to trigger different lighting scenes with a small RF wireless remote.


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post #9 of 25 Old 01-30-2019, 04:43 PM
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Love the lights on the screen. That looks awesome. Very much like a professional stage show backdrop.
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post #10 of 25 Old 01-31-2019, 08:00 AM
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Thank you for the additional info on your lighting project. You have given me inspiration!
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post #11 of 25 Old 01-31-2019, 11:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NF7J View Post
Thank you for the additional info on your lighting project. You have given me inspiration!
Does this help? This is a photo of the wiring before and after the DIN rail installation. By using the DIN rail mounting system and terminal blocks it makes it much easier to install and manage the wiring.

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post #12 of 25 Old 02-01-2019, 08:10 AM
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Very nice! It looks like something a control systems engineer would build.


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post #13 of 25 Old 05-26-2019, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GPowers View Post
The STICK-CU4 can control RGBW lighting strips with the use of a 4 channel DMX decoder (you can buy them on Amazon). The STICK-CU4 is a DMX master. This gives you unlimited control over any DMX lighting fixture. So you can not think of ZONES.

With DMX you use the Master to to send out DMX commands. You build the command using software or a DMX lighting board. With the STICK-CU4 you get a free copy of a software package called "Easy Stand Alone 2". Or as Nicolaude calles it EAS2. You use EAS2 to setup and address all your fixtures (lights, LED strips etx...). Then you create steps and combine steps into scenes. So a scene contains all the lighting fixtures you want to light your theater. Example; you might have a scene to ramp up your wall washing lights and tray lights. A second scene would dim the lights to black. You could have another scene to change all the lights to Red.

One feature I like about the STICK-CU4 is the 8 dry contact triggers. You can use these to trigger a scene. I have the 8 triggers connected to a RF wireless remote so I can dim the lights, from my seat when the movie starts. Or turn the light on when the movie is over.

The pictures of the sample lighting above use the Chauvet SlimBerm Quad units.
GPowers, your knowledge on these seems deep and I'd like to tap in to it if possible. I'm building a new home, and want to do DMX controlled LED strip lights under my upper cabinets, and above to toe kicks on my lower cabinets, and under the countertop on the islands. I have a robust control system with everything for that installed in a central location in the basement.

From my limited research, it looks like I can have the DMX Controller (looking at this one as it will interface with my control system) and the decoders (looking at these) down near the rack, then just a single 8 conductor wire from the decoder to each set of LED strip lights. Am I correct? How far will the voltage travel? Any other tips or tricks you'd give me?

I want to get stuff ordered this week so I can set it up on the bench and make sure I have everything working with the length of wires I want before I have to pre-wire in a couple of weeks. Thanks in advance far any advice you (or anyone else) can share.
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post #14 of 25 Old 05-27-2019, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GPowers View Post
Does this help? This is a photo of the wiring before and after the DIN rail installation. By using the DIN rail mounting system and terminal blocks it makes it much easier to install and manage the wiring.

GPowers, as I was adding a decoder to my Amazon cart to do some testing, I saw your review! Looks like I'm buying the same one that you used. Question on that - what power supply did you use?
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post #15 of 25 Old 05-28-2019, 11:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhendriksen View Post

From my limited research, it looks like I can have the DMX Controller (looking at this one as it will interface with my control system) and the decoders (looking at these) down near the rack, then just a single 8 conductor wire from the decoder to each set of LED strip lights. Am I correct? How far will the voltage travel? Any other tips or tricks you'd give me?
Sounds like you are going to have a very elaborate kitchen with all those LEDs.

I know DMX specs claim 4000 feet for the signal cable. Plus the DMX cable is a shielded cable. But most manufacture say this:
"While 4000 feet may be specified by the standard, most manufacturers recommend DMX runs of no more than 1000 feet (300 feet between devices) before using a repeater to regenerate the signal"

It sounds like you are not sending out the DMX signal but the voltage across the LED power cable. Not sure how long your power cable can be before you see voltage drops. you might want to try some experiments.

If you are sending voltage for each LED lighting strip that will be a lot of wire. You could use ONE DMX cable and place the decoders and power supplies closer to the lights. The one DMX cable can be daisy chained to several DMX to LED decoders. This would make a more efficient and simpler system.
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post #16 of 25 Old 05-28-2019, 11:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhendriksen View Post
GPowers, as I was adding a decoder to my Amazon cart to do some testing, I saw your review! Looks like I'm buying the same one that you used. Question on that - what power supply did you use?
I ended up using five of these mounted on a DIN rail system:


MEAN WELL EDR-120-12 Single Output DIN Rail Power Supply 12V 10 Amp 120W
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post #17 of 25 Old 05-28-2019, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by GPowers View Post
Sounds like you are going to have a very elaborate kitchen with all those LEDs.

I know DMX specs claim 4000 feet for the signal cable. Plus the DMX cable is a shielded cable. But most manufacture say this:
"While 4000 feet may be specified by the standard, most manufacturers recommend DMX runs of no more than 1000 feet (300 feet between devices) before using a repeater to regenerate the signal"

It sounds like you are not sending out the DMX signal but the voltage across the LED power cable. Not sure how long your power cable can be before you see voltage drops. you might want to try some experiments.

If you are sending voltage for each LED lighting strip that will be a lot of wire. You could use ONE DMX cable and place the decoders and power supplies closer to the lights. The one DMX cable can be daisy chained to several DMX to LED decoders. This would make a more efficient and simpler system.
Thanks for the reply, GPowers. I don't think it will be too elaborate...basically what I want is to be able to control under cabinet lights and toe kick lights in my kitchen, and toe kick lights in my master bathroom (and maybe some behind the mirrors). My desire is to put everything near the AV rack in the basement, but that would mean wire runs up to ~50 feet long. My ideal would be to have the controller and decoder downstairs, then run wire up to the actual light locations.

You can see the attached diagram to give you a better idea of what I'm trying to do. I can do a DIN Rail System, but in reality I just want to mount everything to the wall. If DIN Rail is the easiest/best way to accomplish that, I'm all for it.

I need to get this all figured out in the next few weeks because I need to do my pre-wire. For testing I was thinking getting the following items:

Decoder
Lights
Extension Wire
Power Supply

From there, my plan is to wire those up and see how it works with the full 65 feet of extension between the decoder and the LED strip light. My plan is to ultimately do the DMX control with this unit as I can control that with my Control4 system, but also looking for a solution that I can use to just send DMX signals to the decoder to verify the solution.

Do you think my plan sounds like a good one? Any additional details or advice you can share? I would really appreciate it, as I'm truly a newb when it comes to this and I'm finding myself under the gun!
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post #18 of 25 Old 01-12-2020, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GPowers View Post
Does this help? This is a photo of the wiring before and after the DIN rail installation. By using the DIN rail mounting system and terminal blocks it makes it much easier to install and manage the wiring.

@GPowers , I really like what you did with the DMX lighting. I have a few questions (for now...) and that is the placement of the power supplies and the decoders. In your picture, you have them located centrally and then run the high current wire to the remote locations for the lights. Elsewhere I noticed you recommended an alternative setup with the power supplies and decoders mounted remotely, and then use a longer control cable (CAT5).

If you were to do it again in a new build, which arrangement would you choose and why? Would you still choose DMX?
Also, what is the purpose of all the terminal blocks?

Thanks in advance for your reply.
Mike

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post #19 of 25 Old 01-13-2020, 02:30 PM
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I’m so confused about DMX and can’t find dumbed down literature or videos explaining how to use it and how it works.

I want to add one to my GrafikEye 6 zone unit for some RGBW LEDs. I can find literature that states which DMX works with Lutron but that’s about it.

Some simple questions

How many different zones can one DMX actually control?

Can it be used so that the actual GrafikEye controls the dimming or will the GE ultimately just provide power to the zones that use RGB and other Lutron software control the amount of voltage for dimming?


I’ve actually asked Lutron Customer Support for help and they gave me contact info for the closest Rep which is 4.5 hours away and they don’t appear to use email only a landline since I literally haven’t heard back since the first email over 3 months ago.

1. I’m trying to add a simple 20’ run for around the screen RGB.

2. A RGBW tray light.

3. Wall RGBW small runs all connected together like sconces.

4. RGBW screen back lighting spots

5. Regular Pot LEDs for hallway entrance

6. Regular LED step lights or possibly other type of bulb like in place since voltage is so low requiring a resistor for 100% dimming control from the GE unit itself. Not sure the actual unit control will be needed since other Lutron software will be needed for color changing control and am guessing dimming control.


Any and all links or advice would be great. I have room to do a lighting mount system no problem and am in a renovation so now is the time to run all the conduit/wiring. I just live in a very rural area so can’t even find a company or person to hire. Will gladly pay for the help as I’ve been trying to lol.

Bests
Alex

Hope this isn’t considered a HighJacking being that this info isn’t very easy/common to find good info with searches (or proper search terms anyway).




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post #20 of 25 Old 01-13-2020, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audiovideoholic View Post
I’m so confused about DMX and can’t find dumbed down literature or videos explaining how to use it and how it works.

I want to add one to my GrafikEye 6 zone unit for some RGBW LEDs. I can find literature that states which DMX works with Lutron but that’s about it.

Some simple questions

How many different zones can one DMX actually control?

Can it be used so that the actual GrafikEye controls the dimming or will the GE ultimately just provide power to the zones that use RGB and other Lutron software control the amount of voltage for dimming?


I’ve actually asked Lutron Customer Support for help and they gave me contact info for the closest Rep which is 4.5 hours away and they don’t appear to use email only a landline since I literally haven’t heard back since the first email over 3 months ago.

1. I’m trying to add a simple 20’ run for around the screen RGB.

2. A RGBW tray light.

3. Wall RGBW small runs all connected together like sconces.

4. RGBW screen back lighting spots

5. Regular Pot LEDs for hallway entrance

6. Regular LED step lights or possibly other type of bulb like in place since voltage is so low requiring a resistor for 100% dimming control from the GE unit itself. Not sure the actual unit control will be needed since other Lutron software will be needed for color changing control and am guessing dimming control.


Any and all links or advice would be great. I have room to do a lighting mount system no problem and am in a renovation so now is the time to run all the conduit/wiring. I just live in a very rural area so can’t even find a company or person to hire. Will gladly pay for the help as I’ve been trying to lol.

Bests
Alex

Hope this isn’t considered a HighJacking being that this info isn’t very easy/common to find good info with searches (or proper search terms anyway).




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I did some reading over the weekend and here is what I remember (I may be off on a few details, so confirm what I say...):

A DMX Master can typically address up to 512 channels in a single Universe. Some Master controllers can address multiple universes. A receiver is any device connected to a Master controller via a daisy chain connection from one receiver to the next. Each receiver device can have multiple channels, for example, a RGBW device would use 4 channels, one for each color + White. Up to 32 receivers can be on a single daisy chain.

So, based on your needs, a single DMX Master would be more than sufficient. Also, the distances involved should not be a problem, either. As far as connections go, you can use either RJ45 or XLR connectors. If XLR is selected, the standard calls for a 5-pin version, but a lot of the equipment seems to be inappropriately designed around 3-pin XLR. For control cabling, Cat5 is sufficient. Note that the last receiver device on the daisy chain will need a 120 ohm "Termination Resistor" between the two data pins.

With regards to interfacing with your GrafikEye, I saw that it is possible, but I did not delve into the details. I'm guessing it won't be cheap (unless you use the Graphic eye to switch scenes that are created in a controller and not use any of the rest of the Lutron DMX related equipment).

I hope this helps.
Mike
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post #21 of 25 Old 01-14-2020, 05:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I’m so confused about DMX and can’t find dumbed down literature or videos explaining how to use it and how it works.

How many different zones can one DMX actually control?
DMX does not have Zones. For starters DMX defines "Lighting Fixtures" at the base level. You can group several Lighting Fixtures into scenes. So a Zone is like a scene. The number of "Scenes (zones)" depends on the DMX master controller. The most basic DMX controller starts with 8 scenes. On high end DMX master controllers the sky is the limit.

DMX's big difference is each "Lighting Fixture" can have control channels. Control channels are used to vary the parameters of the light fixture. Channels can be as simple as a the dimming level of the light, a single channel. OR more complicated like a channel for red, a channel for green, a channel for blue, a channel for white, a channel to rotate the fixture, a channel to tilt the fixture, etc etc...

Some Light Fixtures have multiple channel configurations, like 8 channels, 16 channels and 24 channels. The different channel modes define how the light fixture is configured. A light fixture might have more than one light source. So the manufacture might groups the light sources in different configuration for the number of channels used. The 8 channel mode might group all the light sources, for the fixture in one groupe, the 16 channel would have two groups of light sources and the 24 channel would control each light source of the light fixture. To have all the control Each lighting fixture must be a DMX enabled device.

A DMX master controller has a much greater granular control over the lighting fixtures and scenes than a GrafikEye controller. DMX controller is also more robust than a GrafikEye controller. DMX lighting was designed for commercial stage lighting. The DMX master controller could be a $10,000 computer controlled fully automated light board in a Las Vegas showroom, or a network TV studio. It can also be a simple as a $50 DMX controller with manual slides. And there are tone of solutions in between.
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post #22 of 25 Old 01-14-2020, 06:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhutchins View Post
@GPowers , I really like what you did with the DMX lighting. I have a few questions (for now...) and that is the placement of the power supplies and the decoders. In your picture, you have them located centrally and then run the high current wire to the remote locations for the lights. Elsewhere I noticed you recommended an alternative setup with the power supplies and decoders mounted remotely, and then use a longer control cable (CAT5).

If you were to do it again in a new build, which arrangement would you choose and why? Would you still choose DMX?
Also, what is the purpose of all the terminal blocks?

Thanks in advance for your reply.
Mike
The installation in the picture is only a year old. It was build in January of 2019. So this is the way I would build the install today.

The terminal blocks replace the older style terminal strips. Terminal blocks make the wiring and termination of cables/wire much easier. They are also like legos allowing you custom build a connector for the number of connection you need.

I would not and did not power an LED tape lights over CAT5 cable. The LED tape light are powered and controlled over 18 gauge wire. The black wire is a hold over of the original install i did 20 years ago. it is outdoor light wire purchased at the home center. I would not use the black wire in a new install. It is easier to source the correct wire today at Amazon.
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post #23 of 25 Old 01-14-2020, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by GPowers View Post
The installation in the picture is only a year old. It was build in January of 2019. So this is the way I would build the install today.

The terminal blocks replace the older style terminal strips. Terminal blocks make the wiring and termination of cables/wire much easier. They are also like legos allowing you custom build a connector for the number of connection you need.

I would not and did not power an LED tape lights over CAT5 cable. The LED tape light are powered and controlled over 18 gauge wire. The black wire is a hold over of the original install i did 20 years ago. it is outdoor light wire purchased at the home center. I would not use the black wire in a new install. It is easier to source the correct wire today at Amazon.

Keeping all the Receivers/Controllers centralized certainly makes for a neat installation, and I imagine it makes trouble shooting much easier, as well.


My reference to CAT5 cable is for the control signal only, not for the power leads that actually power the device or LEDs. I'm sorry if I was unclear in my writing. We are both on the same page that CAT5 is insufficient to power light devices, but it is sufficient to control light devices.

Thanks again,
Mike
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post #24 of 25 Old 01-15-2020, 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by GPowers View Post
DMX does not have Zones. For starters DMX defines "Lighting Fixtures" at the base level. You can group several Lighting Fixtures into scenes. So a Zone is like a scene. The number of "Scenes (zones)" depends on the DMX master controller. The most basic DMX controller starts with 8 scenes. On high end DMX master controllers the sky is the limit.



DMX's big difference is each "Lighting Fixture" can have control channels. Control channels are used to vary the parameters of the light fixture. Channels can be as simple as a the dimming level of the light, a single channel. OR more complicated like a channel for red, a channel for green, a channel for blue, a channel for white, a channel to rotate the fixture, a channel to tilt the fixture, etc etc...



Some Light Fixtures have multiple channel configurations, like 8 channels, 16 channels and 24 channels. The different channel modes define how the light fixture is configured. A light fixture might have more than one light source. So the manufacture might groups the light sources in different configuration for the number of channels used. The 8 channel mode might group all the light sources, for the fixture in one groupe, the 16 channel would have two groups of light sources and the 24 channel would control each light source of the light fixture. To have all the control Each lighting fixture must be a DMX enabled device.



A DMX master controller has a much greater granular control over the lighting fixtures and scenes than a GrafikEye controller. DMX controller is also more robust than a GrafikEye controller. DMX lighting was designed for commercial stage lighting. The DMX master controller could be a $10,000 computer controlled fully automated light board in a Las Vegas showroom, or a network TV studio. It can also be a simple as a $50 DMX controller with manual slides. And there are tone of solutions in between.


Makes more sense now.

Here is my issue and why I need to keep the GrafikEye (or why I believe I need to keep it in the chain). I have all my zones ran with a home run to the GrafikEye in the theater so only need something like the GE to feed the fixtures. If I didn’t have the stupid GrafikEye this would be much easier to configure in my mind. I don’t mind having to use an app or separate software to set colors or brightness and a different app or device to select the scene but since the GE powers all of my fixtures separately it’s throwing me a curveball. I guess I could run all low voltage directly to each fixture instead of using the romex for outlets/fixtures. I also have pelv wire ran from both of my GEs to wall stations for touch panel controls in different locations instead of romex so that to complicates the whole mess lol.

I may have some help coming out of Missouri or Nashville soon. I called a Lutron instructor out of Ohio after posting here the other day and he said he would try those two companies to get with me. Both are over 2 hours away but at least hopeful.

The universe and 512 channels were throwing me for a loop as I wasn’t thinking that devices could be linked together deducting from that 512 character with each device. It’s kind of like Dante of networking which helps me picture the layout better now but still caught up on Control and Devices.

A panel like you have for panelized controls will also be needed and help simplify the wiring needed for this type of setup. Control4 or another cheap automation control may be worth investing into even if it’s just a basic package that is expandable. Seems like can get into a decent system for under $2500 with install if I have everything prewired. That would provide me with two remotes, a touch pad, total control from one app/remote/touch pad,wall panels and install. Being that I’m going to need install for Lutron or Control system I might as well take advantage of what will get to keep from paying for that service is how I’m approaching it as of right now. It’s like I can’t see the forest through the trees bc the GrafikEye home runs.

Thanks for the replies guys. At least I now understand how DMX works.


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post #25 of 25 Old 01-15-2020, 05:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhutchins View Post
My reference to CAT5 cable is for the control signal only, not for the power leads that actually power the device or LEDs. I'm sorry if I was unclear in my writing. We are both on the same page that CAT5 is insufficient to power light devices, but it is sufficient to control light devices.
The wire between the DMX decoders (this is the DMX lighting fixture) and the LED tape lights are all 18 AWG wire in my installation. The DMX control wire between the DMX master and the DMX decoders can be CAT5 or they can be 3 or 5 wire (22AWG) DMX cable with XLR terminations. I have both and use a XLR 3 pin to RJ45 balun to convert between the two.
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