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-   -   Ht 1.0 (https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-dedicated-theater-design-construction/3003738-ht-1-0-a.html)

nonstopdoc1 09-18-2018 10:43 PM

4 Attachment(s)
HT 1.0


Background, Room and Design

First I would to thank all the fellow forum members who shared their knowledge, offered advice and answered my queries over the years. Few local members also opened their homes and demoed their HTs which was a great help. Finally after years of reading about, planning, procrastinating and delays, I am finally moving ahead with a dedicated HT build. Construction started last week and I anticipate that l will have my HT up and running sometime in December.

Any advice, critique, suggestion is welcome!

Room
14’ 6” x 23’ 9”
HT construction is a part of basement project which also includes a open area, bedroom and a bathroom
Unfinished area behind room to hold AV rack

Issues
Low ceiling - 7' 6" to the joist unfinished. Also, there is a HVAC duct on one side of the room which brings it down to 6' 8"
I will likely move few years down the line so I have tried to spread the investment to minimize losses when the time comes to sell this house while not significantly compromising on the quality.

Design
Over years, I have only read good reviews about Nyal and saw several projects on forum that were designed by him. I requested him to design mine too and below are some of details. Some of the design work is still pending. I have hired a local GC for most of the construction

Soundproofing
Staggered framing
Communicating Solid Core Door
DDW + GG
Roxul Safe’N’Sound insulation


No stage, riser or columns
Acoustic Baffle Wall
Seating - Row of 4 and a pub height table with chairs behind it
Soffit - Only 6” in front and rear
Lighting - Insteon dimmers, 4 sconce, 12 can lights and LED Tapelight in Soffit


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...1&d=1537335532

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...1&d=1537335532

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...1&d=1537335532

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...1&d=1537335532

nonstopdoc1 09-18-2018 10:44 PM

Tentative Equipment List

Display
133” wide AT Seymour AV Centerstage XD 2.40:1 and Manual Masking Panels
Projector - JVC X790 (RS540)
RuiPro HDMI Fiber Cable
Chief RPMA281 Ceiling mount

Processor and Amplification
AVR - Denon X4400H -> Will upgrade to Pre/Pro when HDMI 2.1 comes out
Amp - QSC DPA 4.2

Speakers - 7.2.4
LCR - Procella P8
Surround - Procella P5V
Atmos - Revel C763L
Subs - Rythmik FV15HP x 2 (Eventually add 2 more)


Sources
UHD Player - LG UBKC90 -> Panasonic DP-UB820
Roku Ultra
Nvidia Shield TV

Power Protection
Furman Elite-15 DM i
Eaton whole house surge protection

Harmony Elite Remote
Sanus CFR2127 AV Rack
Seating - Octane Seating Flash HR

Wiring - Mostly from Monoprice
Certified HDMI Cables from monoprice
12/2 Speaker wire
CAT 6 Wire

nonstopdoc1 09-18-2018 10:45 PM

5 Attachment(s)

nonstopdoc1 09-18-2018 10:45 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Construction Process and updates

Currently at framing stage. Had to change the layout of rest of the basement to make bedroom 'legal' per code

Paint done and flooring is next

SW Web Gray on walls and SW Tricorn Black on ceiling. There is not much light in the room so pics are not of great quality

Without Flash

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...mentid=2497600

With Flash

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...mentid=2497602

nonstopdoc1 09-18-2018 10:46 PM

*Reserved*

Completed Theater

JRock3x8 09-19-2018 07:10 AM

Move the hvac duct or abandon the back row.

I also went through this and it was very painful.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

avtvhdbass 09-19-2018 11:58 AM

if you are planning to remove the back row. Consider nearfield subwoofers behind your couch

DaveClement 09-19-2018 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRock3x8 (Post 56832470)
Move the hvac duct or abandon the back row.

I also went through this and it was very painful.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Why? The original post says that the duct is "on one side of the room". Even if it is against the back wall, it should be well out of the way. Even if it is directly over the seating, it would still be OK. The elevation view shows that the back row is counter height bar stools with no riser. Unless you are REALLY tall, a 6' 8" high duct, even after you box it in, will still be fine to stand under. For reference, that's the same clearance as a standard doorway (80"=6' 8").

JRock3x8 09-19-2018 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveClement (Post 56834156)
Why? The original post says that the duct is "on one side of the room". Even if it is against the back wall, it should be well out of the way. Even if it is directly over the seating, it would still be OK. The elevation view shows that the back row is counter height bar stools with no riser. Unless you are REALLY tall, a 6' 8" high duct, even after you box it in, will still be fine to stand under. For reference, that's the same clearance as a standard doorway (80"=6' 8").

ok but that means no riser

if the duct runs "east to west" along the back of the room, you can work around that. Mine ran "north to south" over the entire room and it created a huge issue with screen visibility and with my riser + second row chairs.

MississippiMan 09-19-2018 04:06 PM

JRock3x8 ,


:confused::confused:The diagrams plainly show the omission of a Riser for a Bar with elevated seating. :confused::confused:

JRock3x8 09-19-2018 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MississippiMan (Post 56835154)
JRock3x8 ,


:confused::confused:The diagrams plainly show the omission of a Riser for a Bar with elevated seating. :confused::confused:



Tl dr


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

nonstopdoc1 09-19-2018 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRock3x8 (Post 56834246)
ok but that means no riser

if the duct runs "east to west" along the back of the room, you can work around that. Mine ran "north to south" over the entire room and it created a huge issue with screen visibility and with my riser + second row chairs.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveClement (Post 56834156)
Why? The original post says that the duct is "on one side of the room". Even if it is against the back wall, it should be well out of the way. Even if it is directly over the seating, it would still be OK. The elevation view shows that the back row is counter height bar stools with no riser. Unless you are REALLY tall, a 6' 8" high duct, even after you box it in, will still be fine to stand under. For reference, that's the same clearance as a standard doorway (80"=6' 8").

Quote:

Originally Posted by MississippiMan (Post 56835154)
JRock3x8 ,


:confused::confused:The diagrams plainly show the omission of a Riser for a Bar with elevated seating. :confused::confused:

Yes the ceiling is relatively low and HVAC duct runs along the left side of the room if you face the screen. Due to low ceiling, I have chosen not to build a riser. Also, I actually don't need lot of seats in my HT.

nonstopdoc1 09-19-2018 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by avtvhdbass (Post 56834088)
if you are planning to remove the back row. Consider nearfield subwoofers behind your couch

Nearfield Sub? Do you mean a regular sub placed right behind the seats? Any advantage over putting subs in corners?

mattztt 09-19-2018 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nonstopdoc1 (Post 56835324)
Nearfield Sub? Do you mean a regular sub placed right behind the seats? Any advantage over putting subs in corners?

More sound at listening position without turning it up as loud (kinder to those outside the room), more tactile sensation from the sub, and potentially fewer issues with nulls.

Tedd 09-19-2018 05:38 PM

Not everyone is a fan of nearfield subs. (There might be some buyer beware to apply right there.)

I definitely am not. Not that I don't like a big tactile sound systems.

JRock3x8 09-20-2018 02:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nonstopdoc1 (Post 56835318)
Yes the ceiling is relatively low and HVAC duct runs along the left side of the room if you face the screen. Due to low ceiling, I have chosen not to build a riser. Also, I actually don't need lot of seats in my HT.

that also creates an issue with screen size. Although you are probably not a nutcase like me. I have a 144 x 80 screen that I sit about 114 inches from. But again, I'm crazy.

nonstopdoc1 09-24-2018 06:12 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Visited Sherwin Williams store today and shortlisted some paint colors.



https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...0&d=1537837751


As of now my preference is Web Grey > Wall street > Peppercorn > Westchester Gray. I will paint some test areas once drywall is up.

nonstopdoc1 10-04-2018 11:30 AM

I am planning to place my surrounds in their individual cubbies. Something like this

Picture is from Kuro HT thread

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...9&d=1423865955

What can I use to isolate speakers from box? Will carpet pad work? Is 1/2" extra in each dimension okay?

Matt Helander 10-04-2018 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nonstopdoc1 (Post 56860420)
Visited Sherwin Williams store today and shortlisted some paint colors.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...0&d=1537837751

As of now my preference is Web Grey > Wall street > Peppercorn > Westchester Gray. I will paint some test areas once drywall is up.

I used peppercorn for the top of my wall and tricorn black for the bottom. With lighting around 4500k, i really like the peppercorn a lot.

https://i.postimg.cc/DwJsfbjj/20180925_000842.jpg

Quote:

Originally Posted by nonstopdoc1 (Post 56907186)
I am planning to place my surrounds in their individual cubbies. Something like this

Picture is from Kuro HT thread

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...9&d=1423865955

What can I use to isolate speakers from box? Will carpet pad work? Is 1/2" extra in each dimension okay?


I also built inwall boxes for my speakers. Built them to 1.0 cu/ft spec per my speaker OEM, and sealed them with adhesive and caulking. I did NOT isolate the speaker from the box - but soundproofing isn't practical in my setup right now, so I didn't bother. You could buy dynamat and cut it into strips, but your screws are going to make a hard path for vibration anyways - so it likely won't matter that much. - Edit - Now that I think about it - Most inwalls use the feet to clasp the back fo the wall and sandwich it in between itself and the speaker - so there is no hard path. so yea, maybe just dynamat.

I built my boxes with a face AND covered that with the drywall still (1 inch total thickness) So i've got some solid holding power:

https://i.postimg.cc/zfKcF2T0/20180414_011623.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/Pf8346Zg/20180414_235604.jpg

sirjaymz 10-04-2018 05:08 PM

Good evening.
Love the drawings!

Based on the framing I see and the layout you have, it does not look like you have dedicated power for your sub's in the corners. You may want to revisit that.
Also, what's the plug for at eye level.. Am I missing something based on your drawings?
Yes, definitely do a run for 12v trigger to behind the screen. Definitely will give you other options for screen, or additional amps remotely, etc..


Also, run a cable for IR, as a JIC., It's looks like you are using a harmony, but, it's better to have the IR run in case you need it and not, as oppose to need it and not have it...
Probably a cat6 ethernet as well.. again, JIC.


Add some poly-fill into those speaker box cavities to absorb resonance.


IMHO, those are perfect 'short-list' colors. I think I have some of those ;)
I'll continue to watch your build :)

nonstopdoc1 10-07-2018 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sirjaymz (Post 56908802)
Good evening.
Love the drawings!

IMHO, those are perfect 'short-list' colors. I think I have some of those ;)
I'll continue to watch your build :)

Just to clarify, the framing pics are from poster's own HT and not mine.

BIGmouthinDC 10-07-2018 06:38 PM

did you think about an acoustically transparent screen so you could elevate the center channel?

nonstopdoc1 10-08-2018 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC (Post 56921680)
did you think about an acoustically transparent screen so you could elevate the center channel?

Those pictures are from the poster's build. I am planning for an AT screen with LCR behind it.

nonstopdoc1 11-05-2018 08:58 AM

3 Attachment(s)
Walls with Safe-n-Sound Insulation. DDW with GGW should be done today. Received QSC DPA 4.2 Amp for LCR

nonstopdoc1 11-22-2018 08:20 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Drywall is up and finished. Further construction has been delayed due to wait on LVT flooring (for the rest of the basement).

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...mentid=2486246

nonstopdoc1 11-22-2018 08:26 AM

1 Attachment(s)
It has been a busy Thanksgiving and its not even black friday yet :)

Bought UHD Player - LG UBKC90 (Costco version), Roku Ultra and Nvidia Shield TV

Placed an order for a 4 seat row of OCTANE FLASH HR SERIES from Theater Seat Store

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...mentid=2486248

Finalized paint - SW Web Gray for the walls and Tricorn Black for ceiling

Got Royalty 3 Velvet Fabric from JoAnn for the screen wall panels

nonstopdoc1 11-22-2018 08:32 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Looks like christmas came early this year!

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...mentid=2486252

enricoclaudio 11-22-2018 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nonstopdoc1 (Post 57146774)
It has been a busy Thanksgiving and its not even black friday yet :)

Bought UHD Player - LG UBKC90 (Costco version), Roku Ultra and Nvidia Shield TV

Placed an order for a 4 seat row of OCTANE FLASH HR SERIES from Theater Seat Store

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...mentid=2486248

Finalized paint - SW Web Gray for the walls and Tricorn Black for ceiling

Got Royalty 3 Velvet Fabric from JoAnn for the screen wall panels

I got a row of three Flash HR two months ago. I love those seats, very confortable. The only thing I would recommend you to check first is the control unit on each seat. Out of three, I got two bad control units + one seat beat up. They sent me a replacement seat right away and two control units. Out of those two control units both came defective. After some troubleshooting we found out that the cut out for the control unit was made too small and they had to use a rubber hammer to put the control unit inside damaging a circuit board. I had to made the cut out a little big bigger and they shipped me a pair of control units one month later from another batch. Finally I have my three seats fully working. They asked me to donate or destroy the damaged seat. I was able to fixed it and put it in storage unit in case I need spare parts for repair. As you may know already Theater Seat Store is Octane Furniture Store front. They belong to the same company. Their customer service is one of the best in the market. Another recommendation, if you have a front projector, you better unplug the bottom LED strip on each seat as they wash out the screen.

nonstopdoc1 11-22-2018 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by enricoclaudio (Post 57148458)
I got a row of three Flash HR two months ago. I love those seats, very confortable. The only thing I would recommend you to check first is the control unit on each seat. Out of three, I got two bad control units + one seat beat up. They sent me a replacement seat right away and two control units. Out of those two control units both came defective. After some troubleshooting we found out that the cut out for the control unit was made too small and they had to use a rubber hammer to put the control unit inside damaging a circuit board. I had to made the cut out a little big bigger and they shipped me a pair of control units one month later from another batch. Finally I have my three seats fully working. They asked me to donate or destroy the damaged seat. I was able to fixed it and put it in storage unit in case I need spare parts for repair. As you may know already Theater Seat Store is Octane Furniture Store front. They belong to the same company. Their customer service is one of the best in the market. Another recommendation, if you have a front projector, you better unplug the bottom LED strip on each seat as they wash out the screen.

Thanks for the tip Enrico! Is there any switch to turn lights on/off or do you have to unplug them?

enricoclaudio 11-22-2018 03:31 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by nonstopdoc1 (Post 57148464)
Thanks for the tip Enrico! Is there any switch to turn lights on/off or do you have to unplug them?

There is switch the turn ON/OFF the cup holder and the bottom LED strip. I did unplug only the bottom LED strip as I like the cup holder light ON when watching movies.


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