For those that have walls built on clips & hat channel - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 16 Old 10-05-2018, 10:42 PM - Thread Starter
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For those that have walls built on clips & hat channel

For you guys who have walls built with clips, hat channel and/or at least 2 sheets of drywall, how exactly do you secure anything to the walls?

I neglected to realize that in building the above wall system, there is a void cavity which will not securely allow fastening of most anything. Sure, you can use common drywall anchors, but I've never liked using them even for smaller items such as picture frames, let alone possible 20 pound speakers. Maybe there's a more substantial, quality anchor that I am not aware of...

I'd be interested to learn how you secured wall-mounted speakers or anything else of substantial weight to this kind of wall system without hitting a stud and short circuiting everything.
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post #2 of 16 Old 10-06-2018, 01:50 AM
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Molding, you use liquid nails and finish nails into the drywall
You can anchor the outside bottom edge of a soffit to furring that is glued and screwed to drywall edge.
Columns are anchored to furring that is glued and screwed to the drywall,
Acoustic treatment furring or fabric track can be glued and construction stapled to the walls, you can screw but a construction staple gun is faster.

What else you got?
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post #3 of 16 Old 10-06-2018, 01:55 AM
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I didn't personally build on clips/channel/DD/GG, but I see a lot of guys use OSB as the first layer, instead of drywall, in areas where they anticipate hanging items. Not so helpful if you've already closed your walls.

A tip I saw from @BIGmouthinDC in the Beast Unleashed build involves marking a stick (held vertically) for all of the clip/channel heights around the room. You then use that stick to mark your studs for clip locations, and during drywall installation you can use the stick as a reference so you screw into the channel consistently since it's hidden by the drywall you're hanging.

The same could be applied for hitting the channel with longer screws after the fact for hanging items. But I am not so sure about hanging 20lb speakers from the channel; just not that familiar with its capacity since I haven't used it.

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post #4 of 16 Old 10-06-2018, 05:44 AM
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A lot of time speakers go in columns so you just have a shelf. OSB as a first layer is a good idea if you need to hang naked speakers in your theater, If doesn't have to be the entire room just the speaker locations, and you could do just a 2 ft wide strip floor to ceiling if you planned it out properly. I just hate working with OSB versus drywall, Takes longer to cut. And, then there are the splinters.

Depending on your room finishing plans there may be an opportunity to build in recessed backer boxes to hold the speaker or a 3/4 thick plywood mounting plate glued and screwed to the surface of the drywall. You would hide it behind the wall treatments.
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post #5 of 16 Old 10-06-2018, 06:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
Molding, you use liquid nails and finish nails into the drywall
You can anchor the outside bottom edge of a soffit to furring that is glued and screwed to drywall edge.
Columns are anchored to furring that is glued and screwed to the drywall,
Acoustic treatment furring or fabric track can be glued and construction stapled to the walls, you can screw but a construction staple gun is faster.

What else you got?
Thanks but I'm not quite sure I follow. I'm basically worried about speaker mounting. As the mounts have a fairly small surface area that actually touch the wall, all you saying put that small attachment point on a larger plate and then essentially gluing that to the wall?
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post #6 of 16 Old 10-06-2018, 06:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
A lot of time speakers go in columns so you just have a shelf. OSB as a first layer is a good idea if you need to hang naked speakers in your theater, If doesn't have to be the entire room just the speaker locations, and you could do just a 2 ft wide strip floor to ceiling if you planned it out properly. I just hate working with OSB versus drywall, Takes longer to cut. And, then there are the splinters.

Depending on your room finishing plans there may be an opportunity to build in recessed backer boxes to hold the speaker or a 3/4 thick plywood mounting plate glued and screwed to the surface of the drywall. You would hide it behind the wall treatments.
Wow, that looks amazing!
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post #7 of 16 Old 10-06-2018, 06:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by James92TSi View Post
I didn't personally build on clips/channel/DD/GG, but I see a lot of guys use OSB as the first layer, instead of drywall, in areas where they anticipate hanging items. Not so helpful if you've already closed your walls.

A tip I saw from @BIGmouthinDC in the Beast Unleashed build involves marking a stick (held vertically) for all of the clip/channel heights around the room. You then use that stick to mark your studs for clip locations, and during drywall installation you can use the stick as a reference so you screw into the channel consistently since it's hidden by the drywall you're hanging.

The same could be applied for hitting the channel with longer screws after the fact for hanging items. But I am not so sure about hanging 20lb speakers from the channel; just not that familiar with its capacity since I haven't used it.
I thought about the OSB but obviously it will be harder to work with and I am not sure if i would be sacrificing some of the acoustical properties over 2 sheets of drywall.
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post #8 of 16 Old 10-06-2018, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by matpal View Post
Thanks but I'm not quite sure I follow. I'm basically worried about speaker mounting. As the mounts have a fairly small surface area that actually touch the wall, all you saying put that small attachment point on a larger plate and then essentially gluing that to the wall?


yes, glue and screw. If you are doing fabric covered walls with 1-2 inch of various acoustical treatment. It is easy to hide various mounting plates that you attach to the surface of the drywall. It could even extend to the floor to help hold the weight of something really heavy. Found a picture from my project file of naked speakers on all dressed walls. You don't see the mounting plates. From this project: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...#post_20683383
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post #9 of 16 Old 10-06-2018, 09:35 AM
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I have been using these style drywall anchors lately and really like them. I get mine at Lowe's.
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post #10 of 16 Old 10-06-2018, 10:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by matpal View Post
Thanks but I'm not quite sure I follow. I'm basically worried about speaker mounting. As the mounts have a fairly small surface area that actually touch the wall, all you saying put that small attachment point on a larger plate and then essentially gluing that to the wall?



yes, glue and screw. If you are doing fabric covered walls with 1-2 inch of various acoustical treatment. It is easy to hide various mounting plates that you attach to the surface of the drywall. It could even extend to the floor to help hold the weight of something really heavy. Found a picture from my project file of naked speakers on all dressed walls. You don't see the mounting plates. From this project: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...#post_20683383
That is amazing, thank you. So your room is only 15ft wide? And your furniture selection from the linked thread would be about 12ft? That looks like a lot more than 1.5ft on either side of the chairs.

I make this comment because this was also a concern of mine and the room restraints due to illogical placement of basement support pillars.
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post #11 of 16 Old 10-06-2018, 10:40 AM
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I don't remember the dimensions, not my room, a clients.


The palliser HiFi in the 4 across middle loveseat is 9ft 8in wide. not 12ft

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post #12 of 16 Old 10-14-2018, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
A lot of time speakers go in columns so you just have a shelf. OSB as a first layer is a good idea if you need to hang naked speakers in your theater, If doesn't have to be the entire room just the speaker locations, and you could do just a 2 ft wide strip floor to ceiling if you planned it out properly. I just hate working with OSB versus drywall, Takes longer to cut. And, then there are the splinters.

Depending on your room finishing plans there may be an opportunity to build in recessed backer boxes to hold the speaker or a 3/4 thick plywood mounting plate glued and screwed to the surface of the drywall. You would hide it behind the wall treatments.
Jeff, from which theater were these photos taken? Did they do a build thread?
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post #13 of 16 Old 10-14-2018, 06:39 PM
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Jeff, from which theater were these photos taken? Did they do a build thread?

the speakers recessed in the wall are from the Rawlinsway, the staggered wall panels are from, Staggered wall. both linked in my signature,
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post #14 of 16 Old 10-14-2018, 07:06 PM
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Thank you, sir!
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post #15 of 16 Old 10-18-2018, 09:19 AM
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You can secure most molding directly to drywall with a crown molding nailer and liquid nails. Just drive two nails at 45 degrees in an "X" pattern every 12" or so. They will hold the molding against the wall till the glue dries.

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post #16 of 16 Old 10-18-2018, 10:14 AM
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depending on the molding I often just use 23 ga finish nails (slightly headed pins) which disappear after painting. No filling, sanding required. That is all you need to hold it in place for the glue to dry.
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