More questions regarding clips, channel, GG & mounting - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 15 Old 10-09-2018, 09:02 AM - Thread Starter
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More questions regarding clips, channel, GG & mounting

Hey all, it seems the more in depth I get in my theater build prep, the more questions I have.

So I am going to do whisper clips, two layers of drywall and Green Glue in between. Apparently, as I have learned, if you're building a wall next to a basement foundation wall, it is already considered uncoupled and clips/channel are not needed. However, I am not able to read anywhere if you should still double the drywall with GG in between.

Next question involves mounting Pre-construction speaker rings in the ceiling for an Atmos setup. I am guessing I would fasten these to the hat channel? Not sure how that would work since there will be a considerable gap between the channel and outer surface of the 2nd layer of drywall.

Last question is similar, but regarding the projector mount. What would be the best way to mount this considering the potential weight? Should I just fasten to a joist, not worry about uncoupling the projector and sealing very well with acoustic sealant? Would it be better to try and uncoupled this as well? If so, I am not quite sure how to go about it.

This forum has really been a life saver. Could not have gotten even this far without all the help, so it is greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 15 Old 10-09-2018, 09:24 AM
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You absolutely need to decouple all walls including those next to a basement foundation. The difference is you have the option of using IB3 clips to decouple the whole framing instead of using clips and channel. You need to use double drywall with green glue. Do research on floor decoupling too.

Build backer boxes for all atmos speakers and recessed lights. The backer boxes should be suspended on the hat channel. The projector should also be suspended on the hat channel. You can use OSB or plywood as the first layer in the projector mounting area.

Here is an thread that has many of the techniques you should use:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...e-theater.html

Last edited by impreza276; 10-09-2018 at 09:33 AM.
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post #3 of 15 Old 10-09-2018, 11:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Thank you.

Are you sure about decoupling the foundation wall, however? The info stating it is not necessary came from the whisper clip manufacturer.
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post #4 of 15 Old 10-09-2018, 12:11 PM
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Yes. Sound will travel through the framing structure to the joists, then to the rooms above.
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post #5 of 15 Old 10-09-2018, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matpal View Post
Thank you.

Are you sure about decoupling the foundation wall, however? The info stating it is not necessary came from the whisper clip manufacturer.


It is not necessary for sound traveling horizontally but absolutely necessary if you are concerned about vibration in the framing migrating to the floor joists and floor above. They were also referring to the need for isolation clips and channel on the wall not whether you should decouple the framing from the ceiling joists, ask them again.
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post #6 of 15 Old 10-09-2018, 02:32 PM
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My old build thread (very dated) has some pictures of how we used clips to decouple the framing wall along the foundation wall, as well as how we used clips and hat channel along beams. All of this was based on the instructions from Ted at soundproofing.com. I don't get here on the forum much these days, but Ted used to be a great source for this info. BIGmouthin is also a resident expert. Good luck.


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...m-theater.html
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post #7 of 15 Old 10-09-2018, 08:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matpal View Post
Thank you.

Are you sure about decoupling the foundation wall, however? The info stating it is not necessary came from the whisper clip manufacturer.


It is not necessary for sound traveling horizontally but absolutely necessary if you are concerned about vibration in the framing migrating to the floor joists and floor above. They were also referring to the need for isolation clips and channel on the wall not whether you should decouple the framing from the ceiling joists, ask them again.
Right; I do not need clips and channel on a wall next to a foundation wall, correct? Or is is not needed but recommended?

From Ted White : "Keep in mind that if the room is in a basement, the foundation counts as one of the two walls needed for a double wall. Simply build a standard (wood or steel) 2×4 stud wall a few inches away from the foundation."

If you agree with this, would you still do a double layer of drywall with GG?
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post #8 of 15 Old 10-09-2018, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matpal View Post
Right; I do not need clips and channel on a wall next to a foundation wall, correct? Or is is not needed but recommended?

From Ted White : "Keep in mind that if the room is in a basement, the foundation counts as one of the two walls needed for a double wall. Simply build a standard (wood or steel) 2×4 stud wall a few inches away from the foundation."

If you agree with this, would you still do a double layer of drywall with GG?
Ted is referring to this double wall solution:

https://www.soundproofingcompany.com...undproof-wall/

It needs either full room-in-room framing or IB3 clips at the top of the single frame, if used in a basement.
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post #9 of 15 Old 10-10-2018, 03:38 AM
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one more time, exterior foundation walls in basements.

Good- frame in front of the foundation leaving a gap, build the frame one inch short and secure the top plate with IB3 clips at the ends and every 48 inches. Insulate with the cheapest fiberglass you can find filling the framing. If required by local codes insulate the walls with locally accepted standards like foam sheets or other systems then build the walls in front and not touching the insulation system, insulate the framing cavities. Apply drywall directly to studs, use two layers of 5/8 with the full recommended amount of Green Glue. Address all the holes you cut in the drywall shell with backer boxes or putty pads.

Better - lay a 1/2 inch rubber mat (you can cut strips from horse stall mats) under the bottom plate. consider 3 layers of DW

Best - Use clips and channel on the decoupled framing, Consider 3 layers. A master room calibrator has reported that a room where the wall system is identical on all walls has similar resonances and is easier to calibrate. Fewer issues to address.

Other notes. if you are framing all new walls, always build them short and use IB3 clips to secure. Even in a double wall design. But, just the theater side of the double wall. Once you have the walls figured out, address every hole cut in the drywall bunker. Have a plan to attenuate sound in any connected duct work. Use a beefy door system. Never build walls on top of any added subfloor system if you are building below grade. Any water event including those not due to flooding (leaky hot water tank) may require the floor to be removed. If the walls are on top of the floor, you have a problem. Add any subfloor system inside the framing.

Last edited by BIGmouthinDC; 10-10-2018 at 03:42 AM.
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post #10 of 15 Old 10-10-2018, 05:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Jeff, you're a scholar and a gentleman, thank you. Wish we had the funds to hire you out, fly you to Missouri and have you build this from the ground up, but I suppose the kids should probably go to college and have things like food and clothing.
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post #11 of 15 Old 10-10-2018, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
one more time, exterior foundation walls in basements.

Good- frame in front of the foundation leaving a gap, build the frame one inch short and secure the top plate with IB3 clips at the ends and every 48 inches. Insulate with the cheapest fiberglass you can find filling the framing. If required by local codes insulate the walls with locally accepted standards like foam sheets or other systems then build the walls in front and not touching the insulation system, insulate the framing cavities. Apply drywall directly to studs, use two layers of 5/8 with the full recommended amount of Green Glue. Address all the holes you cut in the drywall shell with backer boxes or putty pads.

Better - lay a 1/2 inch rubber mat (you can cut strips from horse stall mats) under the bottom plate. consider 3 layers of DW

Do you shoot nails through the bottom wall plate into the concrete or just glue them down?



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post #12 of 15 Old 10-10-2018, 11:06 AM
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a few nails, certainly no screws. The nails act like football cleats resisting lateral movement.
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post #13 of 15 Old 10-10-2018, 02:26 PM
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If you need to visualize how to attach a backer box to the ceiling hat channeling for Atmos, take a look at my thread. I just worked through this.


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post #14 of 15 Old 10-12-2018, 07:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Very helpful, thanks.

I'm guessing putting the rubber underlay under the risers would be beneficial too? Is there "magic" to the 1/2 inch recommendation? I have local access to 1/4 or 3/4 but otherwise shipping would be a killer. I'm guessing thicker is better?
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post #15 of 15 Old 10-12-2018, 07:52 PM
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Yes, thicker. You can also get rubber Uboats to lift the riser framing and isolate risers if needed. If you are putting in a subfloor usually you just do the whole room then build stages and risers on top of the subfloor.

Last edited by BIGmouthinDC; 10-13-2018 at 04:33 AM.
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