Originally Posted by Tedd
Concrete can be a pretty good conduit for bass. And any hole in the isolation shell, can undermine all your sound isolation efforts.
It's called flanking noise, and as Dennis Erskine used to say, think of it as a six sided aquarium, and any opening is going to leak.
If you don't have speakers already, is a baffle wall a shallow wall option?
I would reuse the drywall, if you can take it down, but maybe just not on the ceiling. You also could preload drywall in the basement. Or you could simply take a strip
of floor out, before the finished floor goes down, and drop drywall down to the theater, between floor joists.
Will the ceiling be seeing mud? It doesn't make much sense having drywall without a fire coat of mud since that won't stop fire walking around
The furnace location is finally starting to make sense now.
So after you have that noise isolated room, which should have a nice low noise floor, why is the av rack in the room? If it's actively cooled, then it's noise. It also is likely
to add some light pollution, and heat to the room. That lobby could host the av rack.
just a thought: I am guessing it's way too late to consider something like a furnace that could be vertically hung, and in the back of the room instead? If you don't have
speakers, a baffle wall can be pretty shallow, some as shallow as 8". And if the subs were in the side wall cavity, the room could be centered.
Okay I'll do more reading about sound isolation to try to prep as much as possible. I'm hoping to load anything over 6' before closing up the space (drywall, plywood, lumber for studs and screen frame).
I didn't know what a baffle wall was, but it looks like an ideal application here. I've remade the SketchUp so the screen wall is about the size of a baffle wall (~1 foot cavity). I do already have speakers for a cheapish 5.1 set I got about a decade ago, but I'm planning on buying all new for this project.
They said they didn't need to mud the ceiling, so I'm not expecting it. I like reusing the drywall, so I'll probably aim to use it on walls or something.
Re: the AV rack. I hadn't thought much about it. To try out your squared off room idea, which I liked quite a lot, I initially made a SketchUp with just squaring off that whole chimney wall and placing the AV rack right next to the entrance door, but my wife HATED the entrance (too difficult for people to fluidly enter the space with the door swinging too close to the bar) so that got axed. Now I've tried doing the AV closet just after entering the theater. It could go in the lobby, but then wires would have to go even further, and I'm concerned about wireless controllers for video game systems transmitting through the cinder block or having to use a relay system. Will the mini closet location work okay even if it's just inside the theater? It should help with sound and light control a bit, at least.
I don't know a lot about furnaces. I had the model switched to the Trane S9V2-VS, which is their quietest model apparently. I thought it was going to be installed as a vertical furnace, but this is waaay outside my expertise so I could be way wrong?
Originally Posted by Tedd
That last diagram was about squeezing the most depth out of the room, or preserving depth of the room, and includes some of what Big mentions.
You could also skip recliners entirely, or simply do two rows of five commercial recliners. Maybe not a popular option but they are designed to pack in seating,
both width and depth wise.
I like a pro/con list approach. Ten commercial theater style rocker seats, gets you the seat count, and doesn't eat up room depth. And you rid yourself of that bar top,
which is a liability with overhead speakers. Now you might get three rows in there, but your cooling needs for the room just went up.
We were hoping for storage space in the mechanicals area (since we're losing our dedicated storage room) so I think mechanicals in the back might not work. I'll need to try visualizing it a bit.
The two recliners I've been eyeing to get a sense of scale for the space are the Palliser Stereo 4 straight with loveseat (114" wide) or the Seatcraft Solstice row of 4 with Loveseat (122" wide). My wife would really like to have wider aisles, but I don't like commercial theater seats much. The ones I listed are the narrowest I've found that still look pretty comfy. Trying to balance conflicting goals: 7-10 seating goal, yet comfy seats, ideally a loveseat thrown in, centered perfectly in the theater, and somehow have wide aisles.
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC
Design thoughts, usually a bar top and stools behind the second row of seating doesn't need to be elevated more than the second row riser height. But a second row of seating usually needs more than a 6 inch riser for an unobstructed view, Raise the seating riser.
A 5ft 2 deep riser will not accommodate reclining home theater seats, 6 1/2 will. 5'2" is OK for classic bolt down theater style theater seating.
an 8' 8" viewing distance for the front row is really close.
I tried incorporating all of these design thoughts into a new SketchUp.
Regarding viewing distance, I've been aiming for the THX recommended minimum and maximum for the biggest screen I can fit. For 160" 2.35:1 screen, that's 8.8-18.9'. The corresponding 16:9 (black bars on sides) would be ~130", and the THX recommended is 6.7-14.5'. Currently I've got distances of 9'9", 15'10", 20'8". For perspective, I'm currently using a 110" 16:9 screen and I typically sit at 12', but there are seats at 8-9' as well and I don't find that uncomfortable (note THX recommended would be 5.7-12.3', so apparently I don't mind medium to long THX recommended distance). I feel like those seats correspond to a reasonable "close and big", "not too close but still fills view", and "farther and not overwhelming". Is this mostly personal preference...?
Thanks again for the super useful thoughts!!