First and foremost, it is very helpful having drawings and diagrams to discuss the space you are wanting to build. A+ on that for doing that up front.
Additionally, it sounds like you have done some research. This is also helpful for us, as it helps gauge the effort you are willing to put towards educating yourself in the matters. Thank you.
I have some feedback with to regarding PJ.
You were have mentioned the Sony 385 multiple times, but I would like to maybe steer you away from it. I planned, designed , and built my entire room around that projector, only to come to a conclusion I was not going to be happy with the end result. I have been planning to go to the RS-2000 for a couple of months, and have been waiting ever since CEDIA to get there on my build. I figure it's worth the wait for the new JVC 4k PJ.
385 has several issues, of which @dkersten
mentioned a few of the important ones. Not only those, but the importance of upgrades to a PJ is almost as important as the units working right out of the box regardless of how long it takes. My point is, there hasn't been a single firmware upgrade on the Sony VPL-VW385ES since it's release date. Like notta single thing. This to me just showed that Sony shoveled it out the door, and focused on the next 'best thing' , instead making refinements and supporting their existing customers. This leaves me rather disappointed. I have been in I/T, and AV for many years, and quite honestly, NOTHING, and I mean nothing, is absolutely perfect out of the box from moment one. No way..
2ndly, the 385 does not do 18gig speed on the hdmi interface. no matter what excuse it is, it does not meet spec. plain and simple. that's just taking shortcuts. And since I have a Sony 900E 65" 4k tv with a 10/100mbit network card, and I get better streaming with wireless, makes my conclusion that sony takes shortcuts or cheapens out that much further, is very disappointing.
I have decided to wait many months and go with the JVC RS-2000. I am still waiting as of today. Auto-Tone Mapping, brighter lumens, and overall better support, seems like a better choice.
Next thing, I like the Denon 8500 .. very good choice.. I however, don't think I would be implementing the Front Wide , as I believe the Dolby Atmos spec is changing, and those are going away in the future. IMHO, the better bang is to go with the x.x.6 top atmos speakers Top front, top middle, top rear, as they will be way more utilized in all aspects of atmos audio than the front wides.
Oppo 203, I wouldn't even bother. Obsolete, and they are out of business. no long term support is going to happen there. Not that the box is bad per se, just I wouldn't want to invest in obsolete equipment. I'd recommend the Xbox One X as a player and gain gaming along with it, and allot of support with MS rather a company that has folded up. Comes with UHD player that is second to only the Panasonic, and if you were to move it to another room, it now supports Solby Vision.
As far as 4 seats wide.. I would consider changing that to 3 wide, though you can fit 4, why would you make the best seating spot in the entire room be located on an arm rest??? The well renowned Dennis Erskine says something along the lines of make the best seat the best one, and all others don't matter.
Make them all a compromise, and that's all you have, is a compromise... or something along those lines... now if the WAF increases 10 fold for having 4 wide.. you may want to stick with that. just my $0.02. I don't think it will be bad either way...
As far as 'sound proofing'. Though it's mostly only you and your wife, I would at least consider doing double drywall and green glue, and insulation in the walls, as it does help control overall room to room sound when others are there and you and friend are in the room, and the wife and her friend are in another part of the house. Makes for better conversation outside of the room... Also... it's realatively in-expensive WRT the overall cost of a room and the benefit returns of that...
Subwoofers - Plain and simple, ditch the Klipsch subs. I have found that their wiring from the factory is horrible. read my thread to see details. Also, after running REW in the room, I found that they are a significant field of distortion at all harmonics of frequencies below 30hz. Absolutely disappointing as far as that is concerned. If you put a HPF at 30hz, then you at least remove that distortion from the equation, and they don't sound half bad.
Also, they are very difficult to calibrate with built in plate amplifiers. The gain control knob is very finiicky to get around the 75db required values with balancing. Much easier to calibrate with multiple subs with separate amplifiers and passive subs.
My recommendation, bang for the buck, are 2x 18" Dayton Audio Ultimax UM18-22's in 4cu^ sealed enclosures, ran from a NX6000D.
Additionally and 4 x PA-460's ran from another nx6000D in bridged mode. 2 in paralle speakers (4ohm load). really really good midbass.
Next upgrade to that is add the miniDSP2x4HD to sync the subs. You wouldn't need to if you get the xxxx-D version of the behringer amps, as thats the built in DSP version. But if you wanna add BEQ profiles in the future, you'll need the 2x4hd.
Room design looks good. Make sure you really consider all of the audio modals based on the locations of speakers and seat in the room. You maybe able to garner some info from other's builds on the site today, but if accoustics are really important to you, you can reach out to some of the well known members on the forum to get you a really good build plan in that department.. That's gonna be the secret sauce in the end.
Not a fan of smurf tube to speaker locations. Not really necessary as far as I am concerened.. not ofter do you change out the wiring to your speakers. I am a fan of a smurf tube to the PJ location. This is really helpful when you need to add or fix a cable.
Make sure you feed the PJ with a UPS fed power source. This is very important. Also, Like to hear you have enough power in the room. 100 amp service is great. I'd lay it out something like this.
1-20amp lights and power plugs for overall room, chairs, and LED's
1-20amp circuit for subs to front of room, but also run this same circuit to the rack location. This way you can reallocate sub amplifiers if needed.
3-20amp circuits to rack location for all gear. 2x for amplifiers and avr. 1x for UPS and all extra gear.
Make your riser higher. Go with the 1/3 rule and the 2/3 rule. Everything else is subjective.
1/3rd rule. first row seating eye level is 1/3rds up the screen.
2/3rd rule. Second row seating eye level is 2/3rds up the screen.
these will change depending on the height of your screen, the distance away, and the eye height of the first row to determine where the 2nd row heigh needs to be.
PJ - Brighter is better, but auto-tone mapping and brightness help correct those images that are too dark or too bright and make it look 'right'
I like the size of the room. Gives you plenty of space to work with.
I hope this helps. Sorry for being long winded. Wanted to make sure it made sense.