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post #91 of 207 Old 05-14-2019, 10:12 PM - Thread Starter
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It’s getting real, and things are finally moving this week. I couldn’t go to work because of pediatrician visits.

Monday I got to, again, have the experience of: explaining to sub-contractors what I want, watching them look at each other confused, listening to ad hoc excuses for why my requests were not allowed, explaining to them they are possibly mistaken (based on my general sense of stats-to-state code variances which I have read here), watching them realize I MIGHT be on to something (thanks to this forum), then showing them how to do it.

Props to Lenny the cabinet dude. He read the RSIC-1 directions! Freaking quoting RSIC clip instructions in an argument with my GC and everything! He gets a gold star.

There was qualified confusion the MINIMUM distance for hat channels was not specified. I referenced a post here, where I queried what to do on a 10”-12” wide soffit (the consensus was: better closer than farther from 24”), but we figured it out.








Oh, and the electrician was initially kinda obstructive for the fun of it. At one point, he was telling me that outlets wouldnt work with channel and clips because of depth. He told me there wasnt something to secure the box to, thinking that was that. Fast firward 1 hour: 9 single gang boxes, sealed from 3/4” MDF.



The good news: all parties appear to default to assuming I have a sense of what I’m talking about. Thanks all for the help along the way.

Lastly- Only just realized how much easier it is to clam-shell sheet rock on the OUTSIDE of backer boxes.

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post #92 of 207 Old 05-22-2019, 06:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Unfortunately some soffits were necessary prior to the soundproofing shell. Those clips add up quick when it’s not just 4 walls and a ceiling.



Q: I put in 1 1/2” conduit for my PJ. The run is JUST about 35’, so I want 40-45’ for some play. My reading on this forum suggests I should go fiber for UHD HDR. Two cables for redundancy (or in case one fails the hand-shake. Ruipro seems to have a good rep.

Fiber HDMI Cable RUIPRO 4K60HZ HDR 50 feet Light Speed HDMI2.0b Cable, Supports 18.2 Gbps, ARC, HDR10, Dolby Vision, HDCP2.2, 4:4:4, Ultra Slim and Flexible HDMI Optic Cable with Optic Technology 15m https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07287LTRZ..._Qju5Cb5N0QX61

Thoughts?
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post #93 of 207 Old 06-10-2019, 07:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Adult Cave! (but not in a creepy way) 13x16x7.5 ~1800 cubic feet

Updates:

Well, the dry wall continues to wait on my first electrician who considers tracing and moving the circuits from a couple problematic junction boxes beyond the limits of human knowledge- not unlike faster than light travel or the contents of an event horizon. As such, i had a new guy come in just to trace them, with hopes of moving them somewhere that allows access.

I tested out my new PJ. My rack is a perfect stand for testing. I put a dirty tarp up where the screen wall is planned. I am kinda over the moon with: 1) all of my HDMI cables working, even the two 40’ fiber ones, 2) the picture, even with no calibration or lighting adjustments, and 3) the lens shift/ zoom/ memory functions of the Epson 5050- CIH with zoom Cinemascope will work well.





I also got some more work done on my DIYSG HTM-10’s and Volt-7’s. The Dura Tex arrives in a day or two. Everything is sanded. I need to solder up two more crossovers and they are ready for testing.




Lastly, my seating arrived from HTMarket. They were really quite pleasurable to deal with, and the total cost was reasonable for my intentions. I got the Southampton for the front row and the Easthampton for the back, both in a 3 seat loveseat-right formation. I went with the bonded leather for the back row as it will rarely be used. They now sit in my garage.


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post #94 of 207 Old 06-10-2019, 12:58 PM
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This is looking really good. I share your frustration with trying to explain sound-proofing concepts to sub-contractors. The team I hired has made countless mistakes short-circuiting channel to joists or walls to joists. I've found myself just correcting things after they leave for the day and I don't think they even notice. Explaining some things 10 times doesn't seem to work....in my case at least.


Also, you've got a lot of drive to make backer boxes for your outlets. I went the fire putty pad approach, which I can't see even comparing to 3/4" MDF.
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post #95 of 207 Old 06-10-2019, 07:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Adult Cave! (but not in a creepy way) 13x16x7.5 ~1800 cubic feet

Quote:
Originally Posted by tookoolkris View Post
This is looking really good. I share your frustration with trying to explain sound-proofing concepts to sub-contractors. The team I hired has made countless mistakes short-circuiting channel to joists or walls to joists. I've found myself just correcting things after they leave for the day and I don't think they even notice. Explaining some things 10 times doesn't seem to work....in my case at least.
I feel that. I was exceedingly on top of their experimentation with the clips and channels. When one of my guys got it and told me he CALLED THE COMPANY to ask a question about screw length, i was so happy i might have teared up!

Quote:
Also, you've got a lot of drive to make backer boxes for your outlets. I went the fire putty pad approach, which I can't see even comparing to 3/4" MDF.

Seriously, I did that out of electrician-spite! Dude was shrugging his shoulders saying it was impossible to have the boxes reach the drywall. 30 minutes, spare mdf and a table saw later, voila. I think I even caulked them to hammer the point


Thanks for your comments and sympathy, kris
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post #96 of 207 Old 06-11-2019, 09:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Adult Cave! (but not in a creepy way) 13x16x7.5 ~1800 cubic feet

I call these:
“Still life with drying Dura Tex, on speakers, with HTDesign couches, in boxes, in garage.”




Slowly chugging away.

Also, test subject: “linear actuator” arrived. Power supply arrives tomorrow. It’s one of those nerd awesome bench supplies, with adjustable voltage and current. The actuators will slide the bed out (guest bed, perverts ) out from under the riser, hopefully with the front row as well.


The power supply will also be helpful in testing RGBW light strips. @Steve W as super helpful in sharing some led lighting kung fu with me.
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post #97 of 207 Old 06-13-2019, 01:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Linear actuator test for slide-out riser-bed. It’s dope.


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post #98 of 207 Old 06-14-2019, 09:31 AM
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I saw your other thread about the sliding bed. Glad to see you're making progress on this front!
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post #99 of 207 Old 06-14-2019, 01:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickTheGreat View Post
I saw your other thread about the sliding bed. Glad to see you're making progress on this front!


Thanks Nick! This is presently the project I work on when i need a break from other projects!
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post #100 of 207 Old 06-15-2019, 11:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Can almost taste actual sound coming from these.

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post #101 of 207 Old 06-27-2019, 02:56 PM - Thread Starter
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All electrical j-boxes are FINALLY almost moved so drywall can go up without access panels.

In the meantime, speakers are D-O-N-E.
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post #102 of 207 Old 07-09-2019, 10:08 AM - Thread Starter
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I could not bare leaving these in my potentially floodable garage, so here they are- the pics do not do them justice.

I just need HTMarket to ship my armrests and a replacement LED (which I’m sure they’ll do promptly). I am very pleased with the purchase. The Southampton front row (leather) and Easthampton back row (bonded leather) are visually indistinguishable. The back row will get little use, hence saving some money with bonded leather.
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post #103 of 207 Old 07-15-2019, 11:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Adult Cave! (but not in a creepy way) 13x16x7.5 ~1800 cubic feet

This thread hasn’t attracted much attention... because I haven’t put THESE bad boys up yet

I’m still entirely at the testing phase, but the results are very promising. While I wait for my electrical rough inspection, I had some spare lumber and future-projects on hold (screen wall, frames for absorber/diffusors, run more conduit).

So I did what any reasonable person on this forum would do: start another project.

Two weekends later, i put a sideways door in the wall of my garage, and i built a bar around it.

Enter: Linear actuator, real-world test, part 1
This goes against my rule of video/pictures of me on the internet, but the awesomeness was too much to withhold.

I suspect the bed under the riser will slide out quite easily with three of these (two if i can find 30” throws), as well as the front row.

Massive bonus: After testing out my chairs, this allows the front tow to slide closer if they don’t want the back row’s feet hanging over them (a rare but predictable occasion).

Edit: For questions more geared (no pun intended) to how the actuators work, i have had a separate thread open for that:
Bed that slides/rolls out from under a riser? Crazy or brilliant?
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...0&share_type=t
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post #104 of 207 Old 07-22-2019, 03:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Adult Cave! (but not in a creepy way) 13x16x7.5 ~1800 cubic feet

I finally found an electrician who sub-contracted from the primary electrician on the job.

For anybody who didn’t see that update, the primary electrician was not at all interested in tracing wires. Given I live in a 1920’s house that has undergone 3 kitchen renos and one addition, the ceiling was a maze of junction boxes, many of which sent runners that did not even power anything.

My new guy was awesome- he totally got the sound proofing/ backer box idea, and he understood the less access panels, the better.

His wiring has a lot of love. Below is the utility area behind the screen wall, it’s the one place that will not be ddw/gg’d to hat and clips. He made good use of it:



He also moved about 12 junction boxes of varying ages, so the ceiling no longer needs backer boxes for access panels:



Per Big’s advice, he ran a 20amp circuit for the projector that allows me to plug it into an UPS with the main equipment, allowing me to recess a hush box into the old access hatch for a crawl space:


He was able to do this while avoiding my new seating, and my newish progeny:


Oh, and adjustable-depth outlet boxes encased in 3/4 mdf, for the win:


Now i’m just waiting for the damn primary electrician to sign off in it so i can have the rough inspection done. Waiting is hard. Hence, side-project: garage bar:

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post #105 of 207 Old 08-09-2019, 04:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Adult Cave! (but not in a creepy way) 13x16x7.5 ~1800 cubic feet

I passed electrical, plumbing/gas, and structural inspection. Finally.

Advice needed:
Insulation is going up by Sunday. I need/want to get conduit in before then. Inspector comes again after insulation, before drywall. For anybody curious, the inspector is only necessary given we had to dig the basement down, involve an architect, etc.

Home Depot had 1” and 1/2” smurf tube. I bought it all.

I am running the following OUTSIDE conduit, (saving the conduit for new runs):
10x speaker wire (CL2) for 4 surrounds + 4 atmos + 2 future subs
2x hdmi 18gbps for pj,
12V mono mini-headphone for pj,
2x cat6 for pj,
2x mono rca for current/ future subs
1x stereo rca for potential turntable (unlikely but who knows)

The questions:
Q: Thoughts on securing smurf tube to the backer boxes for atmos speakers (RSLC34)? I don’t want to make a big hole in the box for the smurf, both acoustic and soundproofing reasons, but I may be making a mountain out of a mole hill.

Q: What is the real likelihood of speaker wire getting compromised? Am i crazy for running conduit for new speaker wire runs? Should I just run two wires to each box, caulk them in, and try prayer?

Q: Will the non-CL2 rated wire get me dinged by the inspector, either inside or outside conduit? I have thought about just hiding it behind insulation.

Q: Am I forgetting anything here?

Any and all answers are greatly appreciated.


*******
Lastly, as a status update, my plans for a bed that slides out (with the front row) by way of linear actuators (in series) are likely to come to fruition. The added bonuses:
1: moving the front row closer by remote
2: front row might be perfect for an IBSS!
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post #106 of 207 Old 08-12-2019, 01:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Adult Cave! (but not in a creepy way) 13x16x7.5 ~1800 cubic feet

It felt like I ran a LOT of wire and conduit , but that’s probably because I’ve never run anything more than 5.1 setups.

Insulation goes in tomorrow.


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post #107 of 207 Old 08-12-2019, 09:23 AM
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I hear you!! I am glad I am coming to the end of the wiring phase and hope I haven't missed anything

My Theater Build - Full Circle Cinema
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post #108 of 207 Old 08-12-2019, 10:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I hear you!! I am glad I am coming to the end of the wiring phase and hope I haven't missed anything


Thanks for the sympathy Seriously, I didn’t realize how much I was nerd-fitting over the idea of encountering a wiring problem (per two posts ago) until I got everything done at 2:30am last night. I now feel kinda relieved that I can SEE every cable and where it will plug in!
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post #109 of 207 Old 08-12-2019, 07:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi-yoooooo
Insulation fairy came.
Roxull Comfort-Batt R15 for exterior walls
R13 fiberglass for interior walls
R19 fiberglass for ceiling

Glad I put the wires and conduit in first.






In the pictures, that is NOT my finger over the temporary light-bulbs. It is a prototype photoshop filter utilizing deep learning artificial neural networks to put something that looks exactly my finger over the lights. (Nah, i’s my finger)
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Man I need a fairy to come knock a few items of my list LOL. Looks great!

Your a brave man leaving the chairs in there will you work

My Theater Build - Full Circle Cinema
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post #111 of 207 Old 08-14-2019, 09:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Man I need a fairy to come knock a few items of my list LOL. Looks great!



Your a brave man leaving the chairs in there will you work

The faries are moving them out to the garage today prior to dw/gg escapades. Thankfully they don’t charge that much.
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post #112 of 207 Old 08-22-2019, 08:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Adult Cave! (but not in a creepy way) 13x16x7.5 ~1800 cubic feet

So the insulation inspector nerd-fitted that the ceiling was faced and the wall was not, referencing original architect plans (which were only really necessary for the digging).

While I wait for that to get settled, any thoughts on combining a window plug with a recessed hush box in this space:

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I have about 8” clearance between the studs and the wall. The window opens into a crawl space. I prefer not to have intake/exhaust in the crawl space (due to vermin, dust, and weather extremes), though the cavity between the stud wall and the concrete wall is suitable. If intake/exhaust is into the room, I need to separate them enough to avoid hot air getting recycled back in. Mind you, this is all while maintaining soundproofing, mitigating vibration of the projector, and ensuring the hush box does it’s job.

Edit: Oh, and just to keep it simple (joking), assume it’s quite plausible that a diffisor will be on top of everything. Honestly- that might even make the job easier.

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post #113 of 207 Old 09-20-2019, 06:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Adult Cave! (but not in a creepy way) 13x16x7.5 ~1800 cubic feet

Undeterred from how slow this build is moving, a question:

Thoughts on how to handle the soundproofing around this utility area, where I couldnt’t get channel and drywall behind the gas/water/electric meter?



As you can see, there are a few gas lines, water lines, and conduits running from this area. I am considering trying to flank channel and drywall along the sides of this area, but it will be a giant pain, and possibly of diminishing returns. The area between the concrete basement wall and the studs is stuffed with rockwool for now. Will screwing small strips of drywall to the studs (in this area) significantly undermine my sound proofing endeavor?

This area will be directly behind the middle of the AT screen and center channel, and ultimately covered with a 2 layers of 1” linacoustic/ 4mm plastic per advice on these forums.

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post #114 of 207 Old 09-20-2019, 07:36 AM
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Could you build a removable or hinged box that covers it?
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post #115 of 207 Old 09-20-2019, 09:07 AM
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I question how the inspector will view the electrical outlets being buried but I do wonder if the works could be framed out, with more clips and channel added, and then a custom built/engineered door, or hatch added?

Something along the lines of rms8's AT space hatch might be a solution for this sort of thing.
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post #116 of 207 Old 09-26-2019, 06:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Achievement Unlocked: Drywall to steel

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post #117 of 207 Old 09-26-2019, 09:06 AM
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Most excellent D!
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post #118 of 207 Old 10-18-2019, 07:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Adult Cave! (but not in a creepy way) 13x16x7.5 ~1800 cubic feet

Second layer of drywall up. Decorative soffits going up, as well as coves for led strips.

Help me be reasonable here, please..

My second row riser will be tall enough to have a bed under it that slides out...
The front row will be a mini-BOSS riser that slides out with the bed...
This will be automated with either a linear actuator or roll-my-own ACME threaded rod.

Here’s where I wonder if I’m losing touch with the constraints of reality:
If I’m gonna have a suspended platform for the riser over the bed, why not suspend it on two ported subs?

I know they’re not “Marty’s” TM if they’re different dimensions, but I’ll definitely have over 12 ft^3 on each side of the bed under the riser, and isn’t it a waste to fill all of that with fiber glass and not ported-sub volume?

Complexity aside, any theory-based ways to talk me out of this?

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post #119 of 207 Old 10-18-2019, 09:28 PM
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Being able to engineer and build something, plus do it in a cost effective manner, often simply equates to scope creep.
I try to rein that in, with a final "simplification" stage. Often less is indeed more, and I always try to ask myself if there
might be a better way to invest the time/money/energy?

You might build a sub that will go really low with all that volume, but you don't have the space for the bass wave to fully
develop, so the room itself will put a limitation there.
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post #120 of 207 Old 10-19-2019, 05:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Adult Cave! (but not in a creepy way) 13x16x7.5 ~1800 cubic feet

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You might build a sub that will go really low with all that volume, but you don't have the space for the bass wave to fully

develop, so the room itself will put a limitation there.

Scope creep is my MO, but this is an interesting thought... do you mean to say that if a wavelength is bigger than the longest dimension, it will not work right? I am curious about this (though not yet deterred ).

Edit: PS- you are talking to the guy whose garage Sonos plays Yoda’s force music when the door opens and closes, just because I could, and it was satisfying. Same with actuators controlling my garage-bar window.
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