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post #1 of 34 Old 05-21-2019, 03:15 AM - Thread Starter
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My first dedicated theater construction thread

Hello Folks - I want to start this thread as I embark on a journey to construct a theater in my basement that is getting finished. Since the theater will be installed by me after the contractor finishes up the basement I wanted to get this thread started as I do this. I will post messages as I move forward and after the contractor starts his work. For now I just wanted to get this thread started. I just have two questions for you. The room is approx. 15.5 feet long by 13 feet wide.

1. Please recommend a good speaker wire that will serve the need. I am leaning towards 14 gauge.

2. Please recommend a good certified HDMI cable.

Thanks for your assistance. I look forward to posting further updates.

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post #2 of 34 Old 05-21-2019, 05:07 AM
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Go to 12 with no regrets, Monoprice usually has a 20% off sale on holiday weekends: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=2817


How long is the HDMI run? You may want to check out Monoprice and Ruipro results in these test, Note it is model not just brand specific. https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=h...L.pdf&pdf=true


you might get the HDMI in the same order.
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post #3 of 34 Old 05-21-2019, 05:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
Go to 12 with no regrets, Monoprice usually has a 20% off sale on holiday weekends: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=2817


How long is the HDMI run? You may want to check out Monoprice and Ruipro results in these test, Note it is model not just brand specific. https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=h...L.pdf&pdf=true


you might get the HDMI in the same order.
HDMI run would be about 20 feet.

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post #4 of 34 Old 05-21-2019, 07:46 AM
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Monoprice is the place to go for speaker wire. I have used both 14g and 12g wire from them with good results.

I also have a Monoprice HDMI cable ~20ft and have been happy.

I've also bought cable from Blue Jean Cable and have been very happy.

7.1.4 Theater Room (In Progress): JVC-RS46U, Silver Ticket AT 2.35:1 142”, Onkyo RZ830, Anthem PVA-7, Panasonic DBT-110, JBL Studio 270’s, NXG-NX BAS 500 (for now)

3.1 Living Room: Samsung 64” F8500 Plasma, Anthem MRX 300, Dynaudio Audience 52’s, Dynaudio Audience 122C, NHT SubOne
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post #5 of 34 Old 05-21-2019, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by genaccmiller View Post
HDMI run would be about 20 feet.

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20 ft and below is kind of the magic number where 4k60 works generally. Greater than it is a bit of a dice roll. If possible it would be a good idea to run a 2" conduit from your projector mounting place to your rack in case you need to change cable in the future.
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post #6 of 34 Old 05-21-2019, 08:30 AM
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Yes thanks. I am aware of the acoustically transparent panels. However you would still need the screens if you watched a 16:9 content on 2:35.1 to pull the screens inward to block the vertical bars. And yes I realize this may not be the right forum for the question. So I have moved my questions elsewhere.
The reason I brought up the screens is that generally they would be better than having curtains, in either aspect ratio. I think the masking panels are generally easier to use on a 2.35:1 screen because if you did it on a 16:9 screen the panels would be much longer, which makes it harder to use without having an automatic masking system.
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post #7 of 34 Old 05-21-2019, 08:32 AM - Thread Starter
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The reason I brought up the screens is that generally they would be better than having curtains, in either aspect ratio. I think the masking panels are generally easier to use on a 2.35:1 screen because if you did it on a 16:9 screen the panels would be much longer, which makes it harder to use without having an automatic masking system.
Not sure I follow. This is what I am envisioning.

1. Install a 16:9 screen with side, top and bottom black covered acoustic panel.

2. When watching a 2:35.1 movie, have a drape at the top that can be pulled down for the right height to mask the top. Use lens vertical shift to have the lower side and where the bottom panel starts.

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post #8 of 34 Old 05-21-2019, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by genaccmiller View Post
Not sure I follow. This is what I am envisioning.

1. Install a 16:9 screen with side, top and bottom black covered acoustic panel.

2. When watching a 2:35.1 movie, have a drape at the top that can be pulled down for the right height to mask the top. Use lens vertical shift to have the lower side and where the bottom panel starts
That's an option. Like others have mentioned it might be a good idea to put some tape up for the screen sizes you are deciding between.

If during 16:9 content you are looking just slightly up to the center of the screen, then when you switch to 2.35:1 you might be looking slightly down for the center of the screen, which might be annoying if you want to recline. Making a lot of assumptions here, but still my advise would be to painters tape up some screen sizes/aspect ratios to see what you think looks best.
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post #9 of 34 Old 05-21-2019, 08:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by sigma722 View Post
That's an option. Like others have mentioned it might be a good idea to put some tape up for the screen sizes you are deciding between.



If during 16:9 content you are looking just slightly up to the center of the screen, then when you switch to 2.35:1 you might be looking slightly down for the center of the screen, which might be annoying if you want to recline. Making a lot of assumptions here, but still my advise would be to painters tape up some screen sizes/aspect ratios to see what you think looks best.
Ok. Thx

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post #10 of 34 Old 05-21-2019, 12:04 PM
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just a data point, I have a 2.35 screen and a horizontal stretch lens lens in my setup. I bought the matching masking panels to pop into the sides when watching 16:9 content. I put them in and took pictures the day I installed the screen, then put them in the closet where they have remained ever since. If you control the light reflections in your room the side "gray" bars don't bother me so I don't make the effort to install them, ever. Your OCD may vary.
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post #11 of 34 Old 05-21-2019, 12:20 PM - Thread Starter
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just a data point, I have a 2.35 screen and a horizontal stretch lens lens in my setup. I bought the matching masking panels to pop into the sides when watching 16:9 content. I put them in and took pictures the day I installed the screen, then put them in the closet where they have remained ever since. If you control the light reflections in your room the side "gray" bars don't bother me so I don't make the effort to install them, ever. Your OCD may vary.
Jeff - sorry when you say you bought the matching masking panel are you referring to two more panels in addition to the two you already attached to the goal posts? Would you have a picture showing this?

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post #12 of 34 Old 05-21-2019, 12:41 PM
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they were panels from the Screen manufacture that fit in the groves of the screen frame. They were made with a very loose weave black velvet so they could go in front of speakers. It came from the defunct SMX screens, SeymourAV currently offers similar panels that are held in place with magnets.
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post #13 of 34 Old 05-21-2019, 12:42 PM - Thread Starter
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they were panels from the Screen manufacture that fit in the groves of the screen frame. They were made with a very loose weave black velvet so they could go in front of speakers. It came from the defunct SMX screens, SeymourAV currently offers similar panels that are held in place with magnets.
Got it. I think it would be an overall. If you build for 16:9 and had vertical shades you could pull down for 2.35:1 aren't you covered?

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post #14 of 34 Old 05-21-2019, 12:44 PM
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post #15 of 34 Old 05-21-2019, 08:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Purchased the front, right and center channel JBL studio series 590 while on sale last week.

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post #16 of 34 Old 05-22-2019, 05:03 AM - Thread Starter
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@BIGmouthinDC

Hi Jeff - we can take any specific questions about my setup here. If I have any generic question on theater set up I will post on the minimalist thread.

For those that have set up your theater, how are you controlling your equipment if they are on an outer wall? Are you using an ir controller, something more expensive like harmony elite or the pro version harmony elite pro?

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post #17 of 34 Old 05-22-2019, 05:06 AM
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There is a $ 72 Harmony remote that will do what you need, or the Elite is $269 on Amazon
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@genaccmiller , to give you an example of what you could do on a CIH screen, at 12' from your eyes to screen you could have a 163" diagonal 2.35:1 where a 131" diagonal 16:9 screen would fit inside it and have black bars on the side when watching TV. Now you would either need a projector with a 2:1 zoom at least or a anamorphic lens that you could slide in front of the projector when watching 2.35:1 content. Epson and JVC have projectors with powered lens with lens memory to make it it a little easier to go back and forth between the two and not need the extra lens.

What is the height of your room? I see you room is 15.5' long. I take it you are going with one row of seats or are you wanting two? If one, I would go with 11' from eyes to screen. That would give you some more space off the back wall for rear surrounds and Atmos speakers. I sit 11' from my 120" 16:9 screen and want to go to a 153" 2.4:1 screen and a projector with a 2:1 zoom so I can do scope. The 120" 16:9 would fit nicely inside of it with bars on the side instead of the top.

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post #19 of 34 Old 05-22-2019, 10:21 AM - Thread Starter
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@genaccmiller , to give you an example of what you could do on a CIH screen, at 12' from your eyes to screen you could have a 163" diagonal 2.35:1 where a 131" diagonal 16:9 screen would fit inside it and have black bars on the side when watching TV. Now you would either need a projector with a 2:1 zoom at least or a anamorphic lens that you could slide in front of the projector when watching 2.35:1 content. Epson and JVC have projectors with powered lens with lens memory to make it it a little easier to go back and forth between the two and not need the extra lens.



What is the height of your room? I see you room is 15.5' long. I take it you are going with one row of seats or are you wanting two? If one, I would go with 11' from eyes to screen. That would give you some more space off the back wall for rear surrounds and Atmos speakers. I sit 11' from my 120" 16:9 screen and want to go to a 153" 2.4:1 screen and a projector with a 2:1 zoom so I can do scope. The 120" 16:9 would fit nicely inside of it with bars on the side instead of the top.
Height is 7.5 feet.

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post #20 of 34 Old 05-22-2019, 02:00 PM
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Height is 7.5 feet.

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If you went with a 140"x59" 2.35:1 screen that you work out great and really fill the screen wall. A 105"x59" wide 16:9 screen would fit inside of it. That's the screen I want to got with. Are you going with an Acoustically Transparent screen as well?

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Planning for a 135 inch diagonal acoustically transparent screen in 16:9 aspect ratio.

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post #22 of 34 Old 05-22-2019, 04:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Received the Denon AVR-X4400H receiver today.

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Basement construction starts in 5 days and this time I am incredibly confused about the option to move forward to on the framing for the AT screen. Responses to questions I have posted have led to more confusion than clarity. I really hope I get a good path forward in the upcoming days.

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post #24 of 34 Old 05-25-2019, 12:43 AM
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i used this speaker wire and it works great, you just want to be sure it is pure copper not CCA (copper clad aluminum) although some may tell you cca works.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1

for a good hdmi cable at 25 feet long you dont need to spend a ton of money on a fancy cable something like this will work fine. once you get much longer than that you might want to look at some higher end offerings

https://www.amazon.com/4K-HDR-HDMI-C...tronics&sr=1-3

as for remotes i have used several of the harmony remotes
this is my favorite
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harm.../dp/B014PDFP9S

this one is also great once set up properly
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harm...tronics&sr=1-3


i DO NOT recomend this one
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-915-...tronics&sr=1-4

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post #25 of 34 Old 05-27-2019, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by genaccmiller View Post
Basement construction starts in 5 days and this time I am incredibly confused about the option to move forward to on the framing for the AT screen. Responses to questions I have posted have led to more confusion than clarity. I really hope I get a good path forward in the upcoming days.

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Are you asking about the minimal screen wall or the frame for your AT screen? Check out this from Seymour Screen for a DIY screen and how to make one.

http://www.seymourav.com/screensDIY....caAudWEALw_wcB

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post #26 of 34 Old 05-27-2019, 09:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Are you asking about the minimal screen wall or the frame for your AT screen? Check out this from Seymour Screen for a DIY screen and how to make one.



http://www.seymourav.com/screensDIY....caAudWEALw_wcB
I believe I posted the above when things were very confusing. I have since clarified my questions and believe have a way forward. Thanks for the link. I will check and compare against the silver ticket screen

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post #27 of 34 Old 05-27-2019, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by genaccmiller View Post
I believe I posted the above when things were very confusing. I have since clarified my questions and believe have a way forward. Thanks for the link. I will check and compare against the silver ticket screen

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Silver Screen I know is popular and in a good price point. Seymour Screen material is at good price as well if you are going to build your own screen. Seymour is the one I want to go with if I ever upgrade to a scope screen. I am think of a 150" wide 2.35:1, 64" tall screen in my room.

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post #28 of 34 Old 05-30-2019, 02:58 PM
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I have run into a roadblock. They took down the existing sheet rock and framing and find some water along some of the walls and the floor. The company is strongly recommending waterproofing the full basement to not have any issues later.
Mold depending on the species can be a VERY serious health concern for you and your family. Your current contractor suggestions of simple sealing the basement walls. Before continuing with the project. Is a HuGE red flag. That they may NOT be qualified to perform this type of repair.

https://www.cdc.gov/mold/cleanup.htm

Would highly recommend that you [email protected]@k in the yellow pages and find a reputable company that only specializes in resolving foundation and wet basement concerns. In particular, mold testing and proper cleanup. Investigative knowledge and expertise into the cause and a solution to the water entering your basement foundation. Including repairing your foundation.

From your pictures. There are clearly cracks in your foundation. This is caused by water entering the foundation. These cracks if not repaired will continue to damage your foundation.

Been trying to follow your build. There has been a little discussion and pictures regarding the hole in the floor of your basement. In other threads. This is generally where the builder would have created a drain field with pipes around the outside perimeter of your house. These special pipes are usually perforated and are completely covered with a mesh type screen. Then the pipes are back filled and covered with gravel. They may put additional mesh screen on before filling in with dirt. These perforated pipes collect any water that accumulated around your foundation. This drain field controls the water table from damaging your foundation and by NOT allowing water to enter your basement.

The builder will generally connect this drain field to a series of piping inside of the basement floor Generally there will be a hole in your basement floor that the piping will empty into and then a sump pump will pump the water out. From your posts in other threads. You seem to have a hole in your basement floor. With no piping or a sump pump.

My question is do you have a working and operating properly sump pump with a perimeter drain system located some where in your basement?.

If you do indeed have a functioning sump pump. Sometimes they have to also add an additional drain field around the inside perimeter of the basement floor to further control the water table.

Good luck...........

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post #29 of 34 Old 05-30-2019, 03:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Mold depending on the species can be a VERY serious health concern for you and your family. Your current contractor suggestions of simple sealing the basement walls. Before continuing with the project. Is a HuGE red flag. That they may NOT be qualified to perform this type of repair.



https://www.cdc.gov/mold/cleanup.htm



Would highly recommend that you [email protected]@k in the yellow pages and find a reputable company that only specializes in resolving foundation and wet basement concerns. In particular, mold testing and proper cleanup. Investigative knowledge and expertise into the cause and a solution to the water entering your basement foundation. Including repairing your foundation.



From your pictures. There are clearly cracks in your foundation. This is caused by water entering the foundation. These cracks if not repaired will continue to damage your foundation.



Been trying to follow your build. There has been a little discussion regarding the hole in the floor of your basement. This is generally where the builder would have created a drain field with pipes around the outside perimeter of your house. These special pipes are usually perforated and are completely covered with a mesh type screen. Then the pipes are back filled and covered with gravel. They may put additional mesh screen on before filling in with dirt. These perforated pipes collect any water that accumulated around your foundation. This drain field controls the water table from damaging your foundation and by NOT allowing water to enter your basement.



The builder will generally connect this drain field to a series of piping inside of the basement floor Generally there will be a hole in your basement floor that the piping will empty into and then a sump pump will pump the water out. From your posts in other threads. You seem to have a hole in your basement floor. With no piping or a sump pump.



My question is do you have a working and operating properly sump pump with a perimeter drain system located some where in your basement?.



If you do indeed have a functioning sump pump. Sometimes they have to also add an additional drain field around the inside perimeter of the basement floor to further control the water table.



Good luck...........
Hello - yes I have received competitive quotes from three basement waterproofing companies. They took a look and said they do not see any instance of mold. I am thinking of hiring one of them and doing the waterproofing. I have not done any further mold testing beyond this since I don't believe that will be necessary at this time if I finish the waterproofing correctly.

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post #30 of 34 Old 05-30-2019, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by genaccmiller View Post
Hello - yes I have received competitive quotes from three basement waterproofing companies. They took a look and said they do not see any instance of mold. I am thinking of hiring one of them and doing the waterproofing. I have not done any further mold testing beyond this since I don't believe that will be necessary at this time if I finish the waterproofing correctly.

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Just so I understand. You had three different contractors come to your home. All three physically stood in your basement. [email protected]@king and examining the walls of your basement foundation.

Each one stated that they do not see with their EYES any mold or other concerns with your basement foundation.

Each one recommended and provided a written estimate that you only need to apply a waterproof seal coating to the basement foundation.

Good luck.......

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