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post #31 of 314 Old 06-15-2019, 06:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Well still working on the drop ceiling in the rec room the electrical outside the theater is complete so I thought I would tackle a couple easy jobs and take a break from the ceiling. First up was hanging my Glowbox poster frames.



This turned out to be more work then I planned because I bought these boxes for the wiring



Not realizing the transformer was huge



So after pondering how I was going to hide that gargantuan thing for a bit I decided I could make a little plywood shelf that I could tie wrap it too.



Ultimately it worked but If I had to do over again I would have just built a big cut out in the wall kind of like you would for a shampoo shelf in a shower. Given my drywall was all done and painted this will have to do.



One down one to go...



I used Insteon outlets so they are programmed and will be part of a basement scene that turns everything on. On a side note this is my first experience with Insteon and it is super easy to set up so far seems like it will be a good system, time will tell.
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post #32 of 314 Old 06-15-2019, 06:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Next I wired up the T8 fan extensions. The hardest part of this was finding the right connections. The third time was the charm a 6' extension off Amazon.com. I just cut off the ends and spliced them on to my extension wires, this way I didn't have to alter the fans or controllers in anyway.







Next I went to the half bath to wire the supply end controller wire



I put the grill on upside down so you can't see in it, I doubt anyone but me will notice. In the hallway I will be painting behind the grills flat black



One thing that didn't work is the temp probe extension...not sure why. As you can see below the screen just went blank. If I can't get it to work I will need to place the probe in the rack area and adjust the fans accordingly. For testing I ran the fans off one controller and it worked fine. I need to get a CFM measurement device so I can get an idea of what to do on the grill ends in the theater.

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post #33 of 314 Old 06-16-2019, 04:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Not much time today but was able to get the other Glowbox up



I also painted behind the grills of the dead vent fan grills flat back so they looked better.




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post #34 of 314 Old 06-18-2019, 02:46 PM - Thread Starter
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So I got an anemometer for fathers day and today I had a chance to collect some data. Using that data and some online calculators I have come up with the following:



The measurements were taken at the end of the flex duct, the 4" duct is 7' long and the 6" & 8" ducts are approx 12' long. The room air change numbers do not take the house HVAC into account. Based on these numbers I will probably run these of the same controller as I had thought, at least to start. I will say without a door the T8 in the hallway gets pretty loud at a setting of 5 out of 8 but that should improve with the door. Anyone see any concerns based on the data?
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post #35 of 314 Old 06-18-2019, 02:53 PM
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as a rule of thumb air traveling at over 250 ft per minute through a vent grill will create air turbulence noise. You have some pretty high numbers.
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post #36 of 314 Old 06-19-2019, 11:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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as a rule of thumb air traveling at over 250 ft per minute through a vent grill will create air turbulence noise. You have some pretty high numbers.
So currently these numbers are based on pretty much straight ducts. Both will be put into soffits causing pretty tight bends 1 for the supply and two for the return. Based on your info is the best course of action to update the numbers once they are in the soffits and then determine the best way to construct the hush boxes and determine vent size?

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post #37 of 314 Old 06-19-2019, 11:27 AM
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If you stick lined plenum boxes up in the soffits at the ends of the ducts you slow the air down. For instance if a 6 inch round duct is attached to a plenum box with a 8x12 grill the air speed is reduced significantly. It would be aprox 29% of the original. Be careful though of the transitions, a six inch round duct dumping into a box creates air noise at the transition, the further from the final opening you make the attachment the better. If you can use transition fittings that also helps. From experience the air speed issue applies to both the supplies and returns. Another trick is to transition from a 6 inch duct to something bigger like a 10 for the last several feet before it enters the plenum box.



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post #38 of 314 Old 06-19-2019, 03:14 PM - Thread Starter
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So how does one go about determining the plenum/grill size?

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post #39 of 314 Old 06-19-2019, 03:51 PM
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You start with how big you can reasonably fit and run the numbers. For your size room the pro plans I've seen use two 4x48 linear bar vents for the supply and the same for the returns.
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post #40 of 314 Old 06-21-2019, 11:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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You start with how big you can reasonably fit and run the numbers. For your size room the pro plans I've seen use two 4x48 linear bar vents for the supply and the same for the returns.
Big I am going to try and knock out the soffits this weekend and then I will set up some time with you next week to discuss this further.

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post #41 of 314 Old 06-21-2019, 11:40 AM - Thread Starter
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In other news I now have all the pieces for the door except the door slab itself...c'mon Jeld Wen lets get me my door LOL



Anyone curious what a theater door can cost?

$200.81 Door Slab
$491.57 Auto Door Bottom/ Door Seals
$205.63 Door Hinges
$65.00 Door Pull
$64.38 Auto Door Closer
$34.54 Push Plate

$1,062.93 Sub Total - Yet to buy = Poplar for door frame and 1/2" mdf for added mass. I also have two tubes of GG for this. I would guess all in will be pushing $1,200
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post #42 of 314 Old 06-22-2019, 06:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Didn't have a lot of time today but I was able to start the soffits. I set the miter saw up with two stops one for the inner soffit and one for the outer just in case I need more that way they will match the ones I already cut.



Since I moved the miter saw out of the basement and back to my shop I needed something to transport the 75 blocks I cut, wheelbarrow worked well.



Then I set up a small work station so I didn't have to work on the floor



Outer soffit complete except for front wall



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post #43 of 314 Old 06-23-2019, 02:11 PM - Thread Starter
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First up today was to cut some 10' 2x4's into 1 1/2" for the wall side of the soffit. First got the table saw set up. I don't usually run 10' stock through the saw so I had to clamp a guide on the workbench so the material didn't get stuck. The bench sits about an 1" higher then the TS.



First one up and the flex duct temporarily put up and out of the way



All done with the outer soffit except for the front wall need to do some figuring and spring a batten to get the curve of that one right.

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post #44 of 314 Old 06-24-2019, 12:10 PM
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I'll be following this. Looks great, and as I am at a similar size, I will be taking some inspiration as I have a lot of these same decisions to make. I am curious what you and Jeff discussed regarding seating that resulted in Theater seats for the back row? Not enough space and focus on a prime front row?
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post #45 of 314 Old 06-24-2019, 03:05 PM - Thread Starter
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I'll be following this. Looks great, and as I am at a similar size, I will be taking some inspiration as I have a lot of these same decisions to make. I am curious what you and Jeff discussed regarding seating that resulted in Theater seats for the back row? Not enough space and focus on a prime front row?
Thanks!

We wanted to be able to seat the whole family which is 8 for holidays and such but most of the time it will be just the two of us. The issue was with two rows of recliners the front row was approaching the middle of the room which is bad from a sound perspective. By going with the theater seats (Cecil Commercial form 4seating.com) we shaved the riser down to 5' saving almost 20". I think it was a great solution and ultimately saved us some money as well, I ordered the seats last week, due to the 8 week lead time. They are commercial theater rocker seats, all in the row of 4 cost me $1544. I went with black cloth becuase I was worried the leathers wouldn't match with cloth they should look good together but not clash, at least that's my hope.

We need to get down to the HTmarket showroom and decide on the front row. We will either be going with the Sheffield or Belmont's most likely. Those are quick ship so we have some time yet.

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post #46 of 314 Old 06-24-2019, 03:11 PM
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Thanks!
all in the row of 4 cost me $1544.
Went with 4, not 5? And that is quite a discount you got off retail if 5!
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post #47 of 314 Old 06-24-2019, 03:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Went with 4, not 5? And that is quite a discount you got off retail if 5!
We did. The set of 4 in a 24" wide seat ended up within 1" the width of the Sheffield and 2" of the Belmont's

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post #48 of 314 Old 06-27-2019, 08:28 PM - Thread Starter
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In non theater news I finished the drop ceiling in the main rec room.



In the theater I started on the curved soffits. I tried a new (to me) product call Flex-c Trac while kinda pricey much quicker then plywood. I laid out the curve on the floor so that I can replicate it for both soffits, the stage step, and the riser steps they will be different lengths but the arc will be the same





Won't be anything new for a couple weeks heading to the Black Hills and Denver in the MX5 for the next 10 days
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post #49 of 314 Old 06-28-2019, 01:30 PM
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post #50 of 314 Old 07-15-2019, 09:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Well after a nice vacation to the black hills and Denver and getting caught up at work I am back at it. Finished the front curved soffits have another hour or so to finish up the back. The Flex C Trac really worked great its a bit spendy but I would definitely use it again.





My 1 3/4" door slab finally came in as well so I picked it and a couple of sheets of 1/2" MDF up. I cut the MDF to an 1" over in width and length and after filling in one side of the raised panels I will glue it to the door slab and trim flush with a router.





This weekend I need to get to the lumber yard to get some poplar so I can start working on the door frame.
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post #51 of 314 Old 07-15-2019, 11:41 PM
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Following! You are FLYING through this!
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post #52 of 314 Old 07-18-2019, 04:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Just a quick update but I have a several questions as well

First for the update:
Started filling the raised panels on the theater side of the door, doing t in multiple steps so it has time to dry properly. I am using MH Patch we'll have to see how it works out ultimately its hidden so won't make a huge difference if it shrinks a bit.



I also drew up a side sketch to determine my riser height as I will probably start working on that and the stage this weekend. Do these sight lines seem ok? The riser will be a finished height of 13" I really don't want to go higher than that if I don't have too. I will still have some wiggle room the drawing shows eye heights of me in the front row and my wife in the back row and no recline so this should be worse case.



So here are my current questions...
1) The boxes that my HVAC/ dead vents dump into should they be double walled with green glue? I will be using 1" Linacoustic to line them and the room is decoupled from the rest of the house. MDF or Sheetrock? I would prefer to make them out of MDF but could use sheetrock.
2) How wide can you span on 5/8" sheet rock? The curve on the front soffit has a 21" unsupported span i'm thinking that shouldn't be an issue what do you guys think?
3) The bull nose on the riser, how far out for carpet? I will be rounding over the fronts and planed on a 1 1/2' overhang does that sound right?
4) Is 1" clearance on each side of the stairs enough? The mfg lists the width of the seats I'll be using as 116" so I was going to leave 118" is that cutting it too close?
5) 15 or 30 lb roofing felt under riser/stage?

Thanks in advance for the help!
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post #53 of 314 Old 07-18-2019, 04:46 PM
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I also drew up a side sketch to determine my riser height as I will probably start working on that and the stage this weekend. Do these sight lines seem ok? The riser will be a finished height of 13" I really don't want to go higher than that if I don't have too. I will still have some wiggle room the drawing shows eye heights of me in the front row and my wife in the back row and no recline so this should be worse case.



So here are my current questions...
1) The boxes that my HVAC/ dead vents dump into should they be double walled with green glue? I will be using 1" Linacoustic to line them and the room is decoupled from the rest of the house. MDF or Sheetrock? I would prefer to make them out of MDF but could use sheetrock.
2) How wide can you span on 5/8" sheet rock? The curve on the front soffit has a 21" unsupported span i'm thinking that shouldn't be an issue what do you guys think?
3) The bull nose on the riser, how far out for carpet? I will be rounding over the fronts and planed on a 1 1/2' overhang does that sound right?
4) Is 1" clearance on each side of the stairs enough? The mfg lists the width of the seats I'll be using as 116" so I was going to leave 118" is that cutting it too close?
5) 15 or 30 lb roofing felt under riser/stage?

Thanks in advance for the help!

Here are some of the thoughts I had on your questions.


Site line for row 1 should only have a maximum of 15-degree angle up, from a level horizontal line from your eye to the screen. the angle to the top of the screen should not exceed that, otherwise neck kinks can occur.


1) yes, double walled and green glued. mass, dampening , isolation, etc.. with thg green glue.
2) considering that most framing is 24"O.C. now days for rafters/trusses, pretty sure you wouldn't have any issues with 21" span with 5/8".
3) I did exactly 1-1/2" for my carpet of the bull nose overhang on my riser.. worked perfectly. If you plan on installing any sort of LED's under there afterwards though, I'd consider 2" overhang, to give enough room.
4) that's kinds of close on the 116".. but I did the same thing, and it worked out pretty good overall. as long as you keep true to the numbers, you should be able to fit the seats.
5) 30# roofing felt is what I used. if you already have 15#, just double it up and use couple globs of GG to hold in place.



Hope this helps.
Really like watching your build come together.
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post #54 of 314 Old 07-18-2019, 05:56 PM
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the only thing I differ on is #1 Double layer won't hurt but since they are inside the drywall bunker there won't be much of a return on investment.
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post #55 of 314 Old 07-18-2019, 06:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Here are some of the thoughts I had on your questions.


Site line for row 1 should only have a maximum of 15-degree angle up, from a level horizontal line from your eye to the screen. the angle to the top of the screen should not exceed that, otherwise neck kinks can occur.


1) yes, double walled and green glued. mass, dampening , isolation, etc.. with thg green glue.
2) considering that most framing is 24"O.C. now days for rafters/trusses, pretty sure you wouldn't have any issues with 21" span with 5/8".
3) I did exactly 1-1/2" for my carpet of the bull nose overhang on my riser.. worked perfectly. If you plan on installing any sort of LED's under there afterwards though, I'd consider 2" overhang, to give enough room.
4) that's kinds of close on the 116".. but I did the same thing, and it worked out pretty good overall. as long as you keep true to the numbers, you should be able to fit the seats.
5) 30# roofing felt is what I used. if you already have 15#, just double it up and use couple globs of GG to hold in place.



Hope this helps.
Really like watching your build come together.
Yep that helps a great deal thanks! So based on your site line comments the rear row is fine but the front row is about 18 degrees but I have room to play so ultimately I think the 13" riser will work.

How tall do most folks make there stages?

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post #56 of 314 Old 07-18-2019, 06:33 PM
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one level or will it have a step in front?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
one level or will it have a step in front?
Curved step in the middle (in about 2' from each side)

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post #58 of 314 Old 07-18-2019, 07:23 PM
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then either 2x10s or 12's and the step 1/2 the total height. If the high part is curved before you put on any of the decking, lay the step decking on the the top part and you can trace the inside curve on the plywood to fit tight.
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post #59 of 314 Old 07-20-2019, 09:52 PM - Thread Starter
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First up today I finished the rear soffits



Then I started cutting out the pieces for the HVAC/ deadvent duct boxes...ran out of MDF and its raining to I only got the rear two done.

After cutting the 3/4" ends and 1/2" side, bottom and top out I notched the corners at the bandsaw. These are in the sealed/decoupled theater so only went one layer



Then I cut the holes




After a test fit I glued and screwed them together




I also shortened up the 8-6 reducers to save space




Then it was ready for a test fit



Finally it dried up so I hooked up the trailer and went and got supplies for the riser and stage. Its been a really wet summer...so wet weeds started growing out of my SIL utility trailer LOL





Tomorrow I'll try and knock out the riser and then I can work on electrical and the remaining front duct boxes during the week.
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post #60 of 314 Old 07-21-2019, 06:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Well the first thing I did today was fixed yesterdays mistake

While I was laying out for the riser I realized my hvac vents would land right on the columns if they weren't moved. After pondering my options for a minute I realized I could move the right one to the left side and rework the left one a bit to work on the right side.

Here is the right one mounted on the left side I will need to do some ceiling repair but other than that this was straight forward.



Reusing the left one for the right side would require a patch, a new hole, and a cut away but all in all a very quick fix. I will caulk the patch with soundproofing sealant when I seal the other joints in the box.







Here they are after the move



I'll finish the piping after I pick up some additional 8-6 reducers and 6" 90. Next I started on the riser. Pretty straight forward. Here are a couple pics of where I ended today.




Hopefully I can finish the HVAC and the riser framing this week then I will start on some additional electrical wiring in the riser as well as speaker wiring in the soffits.

Which brings me to another question...what's the best way to cleanly mark your speaker wires? Right now they are just written on the wire but I would like to do something a little cleaner and longer lasting.
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