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post #211 of 270 Old 10-14-2019, 02:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
look in your local Craigslist for someone who does "carpet repair" bet you can hire him and his tools for a day to help you get the job done for a LOT less.
Thanks Jeff! I found a guy on CL that's going to come out and give me an estimate for the theater.

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post #212 of 270 Old 10-14-2019, 02:46 PM
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I love what you did with the columns - the face frame and inset grille frame are a big step up in complexity and craftsmanship from what I did. Should come out great! And the curves on that PJ shelf blending into the soffit - pure art. Love it!
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post #213 of 270 Old 10-15-2019, 12:23 PM
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Well done sir.
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post #214 of 270 Old 10-18-2019, 08:43 PM
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Full Circle Cinema Build

Dude, (slow clap), that’s really, really professional looking. Bravo.


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post #215 of 270 Old 10-18-2019, 09:32 PM
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columns looking great, how are you planning on finishing them? just painted or stain?

awesome job so far cant wait to see end product.
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post #216 of 270 Old 10-19-2019, 05:57 PM - Thread Starter
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columns looking great, how are you planning on finishing them? just painted or stain?

awesome job so far cant wait to see end product.
They will be painted black as will the trim. I sprayed the first coat of primer on them today.
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post #217 of 270 Old 10-20-2019, 04:05 AM
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Thanks Doug!



So we had HD measure the basement for carpet last Thursday since they were there I had them measure the theater as well. Today we went in to see what we were looking at. I figured since we are carpeting about 850 sq ft outside the theater we would probably be looking at about 1000 sq ft with the waste. The carpet my wife choose was $4.39 plus $.79 for pad so I ball parked we would be at $4,600 to $5,400. For the main floor of the theater we purchased carpet from HTmarket and HD had already advised they would not install carpet not purchased from them so they measured for just the stage 14'x2' & the riser 14'x 5'. Well when we got there today they said ok we're ready to go the total would be $7,900, I was like WTH how did we get there? Well apparently the stage and riser are considered custom so they wanted $2,700 to do them



Long story short I will be learning how to carpet I will have them do the rest of the basement but I will do the theater myself. No way i'm dropping $2500 for $500 worth of carpet that will have little to no traffic on it.
I ran In to the same issue with home depot so I went out and hired a guy. If you know any general contractors they'll usually have a guy that they use for there houses and he will usually do it for much cheaper. I had 2 sets of risers a bar to deal with 4 stairs main floor and stage and he only charged $700. Plus the positive to that I got to use much better carpet than home depot offered.

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post #218 of 270 Old 10-20-2019, 05:11 PM - Thread Starter
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With the nice weather this weekend (maybe our last until spring) I had to do some household chores so I didn't get a ton of time to work on the theater but I did get a few things done.

Yesterday I took advantage of the weather and got the first coat of primer on the columns. Then today I put on a second coat and finally sprayed them black.






Then I sprayed the mounting screws so that I can get the columns mounted this week. If you put a piece of plastic between the screwdriver tip and the screw you can get them in with out mucking up the finish.



FWIW I used Jeff Lewis Knight paint from HD, it was special order. I used no gloss on the soffit and semi gloss on the columns. The no gloss just chalks up so bad I knew my OCD would go off the charts if I used it anywhere things would get touched. Very happy with how they turned out.

I also got all the doors trimmed in the main basement last week.

Finally I have proved in my concept for the black light that will rise out of the stage. Still need to final wire and mount everything in a project box but it works great through my Insteon hub



Need to nail down the mounting in the riser as well but now that I know it will work I can start to work on finishing up the riser.

QUESTION: When putting sand in the stage what is the best way to deal with the plastic? do you just lay it in each void and poor the sand in? Do you seal the top? I will be mixing in sawdust to help with moisture any specifics around that or just mix it in as you go?

As always thanks for the help!!
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post #219 of 270 Old 10-21-2019, 03:22 PM - Thread Starter
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QUESTION 1: When putting sand in the stage what is the best way to deal with the plastic? do you just lay it in each void and poor the sand in? Do you seal the top? I will be mixing in sawdust to help with moisture any specifics around that or just mix it in as you go?

QUESTION 2: What is the best way to splice these wires so they can be quickly split and then put back together? The are for the BOSS in the riser but run through a hole in the column?

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post #220 of 270 Old 10-21-2019, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkinneb View Post
What is the best way to splice these wires so they can be quickly split and then put back together? The are for the BOSS in the riser but run through a hole in the column?
How frequently will you be disconnecting/reconnecting the junction?

If it's going to be a few times a year, I'd go with male & female Speakon cord connectors. They are reasonable priced & very robust. We use them for the construction traffic light systems the we have made up & haven't had any problems with them

If it's just for occasional use, you could just use crimp on male & female 1/4" spade connectors (the insulated kind).
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post #221 of 270 Old 10-21-2019, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkinneb View Post
QUESTION 1: When putting sand in the stage what is the best way to deal with the plastic? do you just lay it in each void and poor the sand in? Do you seal the top? I will be mixing in sawdust to help with moisture any specifics around that or just mix it in as you go?
Pre-cut a piece of plastic and put it in the intended bay. Fill with sand, level, vibrate the sides with your orbital sander, top off with sand using the top of the studs as a screed. Some trim the plastic flush, others will fold it over and 'wrap' the sand like a Christmas present. There's no right or wrong way. In theory you are trying to keep the sand away from the top of the stud when you go to glue and screw the first layer.

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QUESTION 2: What is the best way to splice these wires so they can be quickly split and then put back together? The are for the BOSS in the riser but run through a hole in the column?
Depends on the gauge of wire and how much power you are putting through that connection. Speakon is going to be the most robust / secure. Spade terminals would be my next suggestion. A final approach would be to terminate one of the wires with a binding post and then terminate the other wire with the appropriate connector, just as if you were terminating the speaker wire into a wall plate and using banana plugs, spades, etc. to make the connection to whatever speaker wire terminal you chose.
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post #222 of 270 Old 10-21-2019, 06:36 PM
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Probably doesn't have to be this robust but you get the idea, extension cord replacement ends.





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post #223 of 270 Old 10-21-2019, 06:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Pre-cut a piece of plastic and put it in the intended bay. Fill with sand, level, vibrate the sides with your orbital sander, top off with sand using the top of the studs as a screed. Some trim the plastic flush, others will fold it over and 'wrap' the sand like a Christmas present. There's no right or wrong way. In theory you are trying to keep the sand away from the top of the stud when you go to glue and screw the first layer.
Thanks TMcG exactly what I needed!


Thanks all for the wiring help! After reassessing the situation I realized I can just a cut a U into the back of the column since my cloth panels will come out 2" they will hide the exposed speaker wire.

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post #224 of 270 Old 10-21-2019, 07:12 PM
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Topping off the sand scraping it level with the top was the old school thinking and I did it many time in the past, the new thinking with the sawdust mix is to not pack it tight to the top you can leave enough gap to fold over the plastic.
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post #225 of 270 Old 10-21-2019, 08:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Jeff!

Ok I'm back to needing a disconnect for the two pair of Monoprice 12ga speaker wire. These will rarely if ever need to be disconnected and reconnected. I'm looking at SpeakOn connectors on Amazon but really do not want a plate do they make an inline female connector?

I also have these if they would work

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I don’t know where to begin... awesome updates. The screw-down barrel connectors work great for me in low-voltage settings, but I only use them for audio with a whopping 25W receiver driving transducers for my Darth Vader setup. True story.

I’m stoked to see what you do with the actuator! Did you see my wacky video with four SPDT relays and an Insteon unit?

How are you controlling your Insteon setup? I abandoned the Insteon IOlinc and a DPDT relay for an ethernet network-controllable 8 unit relay, which you can control through a web api, cURL, REST, etc..
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post #227 of 270 Old 10-22-2019, 05:47 AM
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Quote:
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Topping off the sand scraping it level with the top was the old school thinking and I did it many time in the past, the new thinking with the sawdust mix is to not pack it tight to the top you can leave enough gap to fold over the plastic.
I agree it doesn't have to be filled to the tippy top, it's just easy to fill and screed. Filling to the top and then folding/overlapping a couple layers of 6 mil poly film doesn't present any problems screwing down the decking.
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post #228 of 270 Old 10-22-2019, 06:12 AM
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car audio guys have a lot of quick disconnect products, just one I found this morning, you have to solder these onto the wires.
https://www.amazon.com/Finware-Upgra...95982696&psc=1
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post #229 of 270 Old 10-22-2019, 06:57 AM
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Thanks Jeff!

Ok I'm back to needing a disconnect for the two pair of Monoprice 12ga speaker wire. These will rarely if ever need to be disconnected and reconnected. I'm looking at SpeakOn connectors on Amazon but really do not want a plate do they make an inline female connector?
Yes, there inline female and male connectors.
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post #230 of 270 Old 10-22-2019, 06:58 AM
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Agree with big.. XT60 connectors are great.. I use them for my PID controlled still heater coils..
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post #231 of 270 Old 10-22-2019, 09:05 AM
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Jeff's post jogged a memory for me - you could look into connectors used for high-amp LiPo RC car batteries. The XT connector he posted is one type commonly used in RC.

EC3 for example is rated for 60 amps continuous and 75 amp burst (I use these on a 1/8 scale brushless offroad rig that has two pretty big LiPo packs on board). There is also an EC2 (20A/30A burst) and EC5 (120A/150A burst) in the same family.




Just like the XT, these are solder connectors. On the ECs, you solder the bullet onto your wire, then push the bullet into the back of the housing where it locks in. I bought a 10-pack from Hobby King because I had several battery packs for different cars and standardized on that plug. They are available everywhere and prices vary.

Here is a page I found (probably with loads of ads on it) explaining the different RC battery connectors; might help you choose something for your application: https://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-l...connector.html

Of course if you want to go with a Speakon connector, that would work. What you are looking for is called a cable-mount connector (as opposed to panel-mount).

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post #232 of 270 Old 10-22-2019, 02:18 PM - Thread Starter
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I don’t know where to begin... awesome updates. The screw-down barrel connectors work great for me in low-voltage settings, but I only use them for audio with a whopping 25W receiver driving transducers for my Darth Vader setup. True story.

I’m stoked to see what you do with the actuator! Did you see my wacky video with four SPDT relays and an Insteon unit?

How are you controlling your Insteon setup? I abandoned the Insteon IOlinc and a DPDT relay for an ethernet network-controllable 8 unit relay, which you can control through a web api, cURL, REST, etc..
I think I did but honestly this stuff is so over my head I should go look again now that I have done some research and work to implement. I plan to stick with Insteon for now but we shall see...

Thanks guys!! I ordered up some connectors and they'll be here Thursday

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post #233 of 270 Old 10-22-2019, 07:34 PM
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^ If it works, it works! But hit me up if you need advice on the automation stuff
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post #234 of 270 Old 10-23-2019, 08:22 AM - Thread Starter
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^ If it works, it works! But hit me up if you need advice on the automation stuff
Absolutely will do that and thank for the offer! I tried to wire or place conduit in places where I thought I would need it for future automation like screen masking, digital movie poster, etc. It appears I have just scratched the service of automation but I really like the Insteon so far pretty straight forward, well except the 3 ways I lost some hair over those LOL.

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post #235 of 270 Old 10-24-2019, 08:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Tidied up the black light actuator set up now ready to finish the riser and move forward with mounting this.



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post #236 of 270 Old 10-28-2019, 02:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Since the last update I was able to get the columns installed




Then started working on the stage



made a quick marking tool



Then began cutting curves.




Next I filled the lower sections with sand and sawdust, the smaller areas's got insulation





The bottom is complete except for the round over on the top edge

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post #237 of 270 Old 10-28-2019, 03:07 PM
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Nice, except this makes me want a stage now! Looks really professional
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post #238 of 270 Old 10-29-2019, 12:06 PM
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Looks great!

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post #239 of 270 Old 10-29-2019, 02:39 PM
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You are moving so much faster than I am it's not even funny. Thanks for the inspiration!
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post #240 of 270 Old 10-30-2019, 09:28 AM - Thread Starter
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You are moving so much faster than I am it's not even funny. Thanks for the inspiration!
Thanks! My wife would beg to differ, my 4 month project is on month 14

Having said that I did show her this post and said see I told you I was doing good LOL

...she said just get it done
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