Chill Pace - Theater Build - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 28 Old 06-25-2019, 06:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Chill Pace - Theater Build

Hi All,

I moved this from another sub-forum, since this is more of a dedicated theater build.

I have all of my equipment picked out and bought for my home theater room. I am about to purchase all necessary cables and run them in the room. I hope that you can confirm that this will work according to how I outlined below and let me know if you see any issues.

Equipment
- BenQ HT3550
- 100” Silver Ticket Fixed Projector Screen
- Denon AVR-X4400H
- Desktop PC with an HDMI Cable
- Verizon Fios Set Top Box
- Roku
- Verizon Fios Internet Router
- Speakers: All Klipsch – (2) R-820F, (1) R-34C, (2) R-51M, (2) RIC-65, (1) R-120SW

Connections
- Speaker wire will be 225 feet of 12ga CL3R Blue Jeans speaker cable (Belden 5000UE – Gray, it is UL listed and in-wall rated). The longest run is 43' from receiver to speaker.
- Subwoofer Cable will be 12' 6" of Blue Jeans Cable LC-1 Analog Audio Cable with Taversoe Crimp RCA Plugs
- HDMI Cable will be 25 feet of Monoprice Certified Preminum High Speed HDMI Cable (Product #15427) from A/V receiver to projector and smaller lengths of same cable between A/V receiver to sources (6’ 6” receiver to PC, 7’ from receiver to Verizon Fios Set Top Box, 9’ 6” from receiver to Roku, 5’ extra HDMI cable).
- Ethernet Cable will be 5’ to PC, 6’6’” to Fios Set Top Box , 5’ 5” to Receiver, 4’ to Roku of Blue Jeans Cat 6a Patch Cords--BJC C6AP.
- Coaxial Cable will need to be extended for Verizon Fios, so I will get 25 feet of Monoprice 25ft RG6 (18AWG) 750 ohm, Quad Shield, CL2 Coaxial Cable with F Type Connector (product #3033), it is UL listed and in-wall rated). Female to female connector/coupler will be gold from Best Buy and wall plate will be generic from Home Depot.

I want to do this right the first time, so all comments are welcome!

- Pete
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post #2 of 28 Old 06-25-2019, 07:36 PM
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tell us about the room, it's construction and your planned acoustical treatments.
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post #3 of 28 Old 06-26-2019, 05:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply!

The room is 21’ long (22 1/2’ if you count the ledge above framed out foundation) x around 11’ wide. There are 2 windows on either side of the room (length-wise) where the projector screen will be mounted in front of a window (hanging in front of the window from the ceiling). The room is wood construction with drywall. The drywall will primarily be painted dark brown everywhere. I can post a picture, if it will be helpful.

The first row of seating will be approx 9 feet away from the screen and second row approx 11 feet away from the screen (no raised flooring for the second row). The windows will have black out curtains. The entryway has no doors (very little light enters this way), but if it does then I may add a door.


I had no planned acoustic treatments besides carpet on the floor. The drywall is already up, so I’m trying to take down as little drywall as possible.

- Pete

Last edited by PeteJR24; 06-26-2019 at 07:11 AM.
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post #4 of 28 Old 06-26-2019, 08:15 AM
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acoustical treatments go on the drywall
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post #5 of 28 Old 06-26-2019, 09:55 AM - Thread Starter
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1.) Are acoustical treatments all that I am missing from a good setup from what you see?

2.) Does everything else look good in my setup from what I listed?

- Pete
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post #6 of 28 Old 06-26-2019, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteJR24 View Post
The first row of seating will be approx 9 feet away from the screen and second row approx 11 feet away from the screen (no raised flooring for the second row)
It would physically impossible to fit a row of seating in 2 ft, you may have difficulty seeing the bottom of the screen from the second row without a seating riser. A 100 inch screen is considered a little small for a two row theater if you are going to be watching at lot of 2.35:1 format material.
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post #7 of 28 Old 06-26-2019, 11:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks, Jeff. I did not think the seating situation through all the way enough.

That being said, I will do 2 person sofa with a viewing distance of 9-10 feet. To the right and left of the 2 person sofa, I can do a 1 person recliner which would have a viewing distance of 8-9 feet.

Now being a 1 row theater and I do not anticipate watching a lot of 2.35:1 material.

1.) Would that work a lot better?

2.) Does everything I listed in this thread and the changes I made make for a good setup (and not cause problems of course)?

-Pete

Last edited by PeteJR24; 06-26-2019 at 05:45 PM.
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post #8 of 28 Old 06-26-2019, 06:47 PM
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Providing a drawing of the floor layout, and equipment placement, along with expected usage of the room would be helpful to us that would try to assist.
Equipment list is on par with most solutions today. The key here is to make sure you are completed with the room build out BEFORE purchasing equipment and having the warranty waste away sitting in a box.

Having a drawing will help you, as well as us, assist in making key decisions.

HT1.0 | HT2.05
JVC RS-2000 / Seymour AV Center Stage 130"diag, 2.35 / nVidia Shield
11.2(22).6 Atmos / Denon 7200WA / Denon 6300 / 2x miniDSP2x4HD / DIY treatments
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post #9 of 28 Old 06-27-2019, 12:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Attached is a copy of a sketch I did by hand.

I did the best I could (let me know if it is difficult to read).

Comments are welcome.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Movie Room Sketch.pdf (30.1 KB, 28 views)
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post #10 of 28 Old 06-28-2019, 02:00 PM - Thread Starter
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post #11 of 28 Old 06-28-2019, 02:19 PM
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You diagram is upside down, but if your 3 person sofa is 7 ft wide (guess) and your recliners are 2ft each (conservative) , that pretty well fills your 11 ft wide room, my conclusion is your drawing is not to scale and you might run out of room.

Check the actual dimensions of your furniture choices and let us know what you find out.
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post #12 of 28 Old 06-28-2019, 05:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi BIGmouthinDC,

I attached the sketch right side up, sorry about that! It is NOT to scale, but measurements are accurate and location of items are in the area of where I would like to put them.

I decided on a 2 person reclining console loveseat that is 7 ft wide and 2 (single person) recliners that are 3 foot wide each. They would be slightly in front of the loveseat, angled towards the 100" screen, to the left and to the right of the loveseat.

Would this appear to be acceptable/practical to you or do you have another seating suggestion if I only have 11ft wide space and do not want to put in a riser?

Do you see any other issues with my setup?

- Pete
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post #13 of 28 Old 06-28-2019, 06:10 PM
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I'm still struggling with fitting 13 ft of seating width in a 11 ft wide room.
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post #14 of 28 Old 06-28-2019, 08:38 PM - Thread Starter
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You make a good point. I thought I may be able to make it fit, but it doesn’t seem like it.

I’ll just go with 1 (2 person) reclining console loveseat at a width of 7ft.

- Pete
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post #15 of 28 Old 06-29-2019, 07:02 PM - Thread Starter
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BIGmouthinDC,

Will that seating placement work in an 11ft room?

In regards to the info I’ve given about my setup in this thread/things I’ve listed in my posts, do you see any other issues with my home theater build?
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post #16 of 28 Old 06-30-2019, 08:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteJR24 View Post
BIGmouthinDC,

Will that seating placement work in an 11ft room?

In regards to the info I’ve given about my setup in this thread/things I’ve listed in my posts, do you see any other issues with my home theater build?
I ain't Mr Big but I've done more than a few "Pocket-Sized" Home Theaters in spare Bedrooms that were 11' wide.


You seem set on having a Sofa....so I'll ask if you have one already or one type in mind?


If not....there are good affordable solutions....we'll address them a bit later.


Your Screen. With 11' width to work with, your practical screen with should be about 9' across (108") but you've selected a 100"er by Silver Ticket so we'll work under that premise.

That Screen is 91" wide (w/Frame) with a image area that is 87". So...with a 4K PJ your front Row can be and should be set at 108" "Eyes to Screen" If you didn't already have that screen I'd be suggesting that the entire Front Wall be painted to serve as the Screen...a non-Format specific area that could be adjusted to suit....image wise, and suffer from no Horizontal Bars in 2.39:1

For the ST Screen you have a workable Throw distance that falls between 8.5' and 10.5' If I was doing the designing...I'd spec out a 106" x 60" 16:9 image and a 44" x 106" 2.39:1 Image and still keep the Front Row viewing distance at 9' (108")

Furniture-wise,if you want the maximum Seating in 11' width you need to consider a good value in actual Theater Seating. There are 2-3 person Love Seats that are of a Space Saver design. I know of a certain that you could fit 3 sets of 2 person Love Seats within the available 13' width....with two sets placed forward at angles.

I would lean more toward two Rows, the second on a 10" high Riser. With 13 'to work with and using the style shown below, you could have a 6 or even 8 seat theater in that tiny space.




https://4seating.com/seatcraft-theater-seating/seatcraft-12006-home-theater-seating.html



4th of July Sale on now........


Well thought-out design combined with judicious choice in Seating will make the plans gel nicely.
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post #17 of 28 Old 07-01-2019, 01:01 AM
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Good advice except bonded leather has been a disaster for the furniture industry with several successful class action lawsuits due to the short lifespan of the material.
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post #18 of 28 Old 07-01-2019, 05:56 AM
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Good advice except bonded leather has been a disaster for the furniture industry with several successful class action lawsuits due to the short lifespan of the material.
Didn't know they were getting sued but I can say from experience that bonded leather is indeed terrible. The top layer eventually begins flaking. You'll find it sticking to clothing, carpeting, skin, etc.
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post #19 of 28 Old 07-01-2019, 06:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Thank you to you both.

I was looking at this seating: https://www.mybobs.com/furniture/liv.../p/20031910001

1.) Would you say that all issues with my home theater room have been addressed by you both, everything else looks good that I listed in my posts and I can move forward with my home theater room?

I'm just looking for a "Yes" or " "No" to the ^above^ for confirmation.

- Pete
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post #20 of 28 Old 07-01-2019, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
Good advice except bonded leather has been a disaster for the furniture industry with several successful class action lawsuits due to the short lifespan of the material.
The Suit mentioned dates back 5+ years ago.....and since then the Formula for Bonded has changed. While I'm all for the Top Grade Leather options, when properly cared for Bonded Leather can be very applicable. Much has to do with how often it is used, and how much it is abused. Leather will be more resilient to tearing being both a single sheet of material, but also requires care to keep from looking ratty. (cracked and wrinkled)

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Didn't know they were getting sued but I can say from experience that bonded leather is indeed terrible. The top layer eventually begins flaking. You'll find it sticking to clothing, carpeting, skin, etc.
The older Bonded leather was in fact a thin fused & pressed leather & plastic combo. As such it could...and would indeed separate and flake if the top surface was let to dry out or was cleaned with the wrong substances (mild soap & water only) And yeah...it didn't wear well. The new stuff is bonded onto a Cloth Base, and the top layer itself is a blend of 20%+ Leather and Polyurethane. It's MUCH tougher that the old version....as would be expected sincelitigation forced a revamp of the Mfg process. Bluntly put....the Mfg are not setting themselves up for another law suit. Wear issues now fall directly onto the End User.


Bonded leather has a thin top coat of Polyurethane.....and it's not permeable, so gentle cleaning is all that is required. Things to avoid is sitting down on it in your bare nekkid self....Oils can break down the protective coats (...and ruin Leather too...) Really...it boils down to use.If your going to utilize the seats daily, and the Kids will be sitting cross-legged, then by all means you should spend for Leather....and treat it with respect. The additional cost per Seat is about $150.00 average. Need a bargain solution? Bonded leather done right by thoughtful care and used lightly will last 10 years +

I just visited one of my older 10 seat Theater with Bonded Leather seats that is fully 9 years old....still looking very classy. I'd relate this...with the need for 10 seats, leather would have put the cost out of reach.

When budget is King, and circumstances require a Space Saving approach, discounting a choice out of hand because of older prior issues can work to throttle potential solutions. Truth is...too many people just turn their noses up on the more affordable suggestions made on the Forum. It's always been more of a "Pay to Play or Go Away" mentality.

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post #21 of 28 Old 07-01-2019, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by PeteJR24 View Post
Thank you to you both.

I was looking at this seating: https://www.mybobs.com/furniture/liv.../p/20031910001

It'll serve....but it also elliminates any chance to have separate Recliners to each side. the Seat designs I showed would / could let you have 3 sets of dual seats...one centered, and two further forward set at slight angles. I don't care for that, but it could be done with seats only 64" wide. Not with a 2-seater that is over 80" wide.


Quote:
1.) Would you say that all issues with my home theater room have been addressed by you both, everything else looks good that I listed in my posts and I can move forward with my home theater room?

I'm just looking for a "Yes" or " "No" to the ^above^ for confirmation.

- Pete
Well no....the focus so far has been on your seating options (type and location)

The sketch you made is pretty far out of proportions...scale-wise, and as such so are the shown Speaker placements.a definite determination as to exactly what seating you'll use and where it's placed is a critical aspect of where to place the Surrounds and Atmos drivers.


I'll take what you've posted (sketch & speakers) and do up something a little bit more precise. Try to hang on for a bit...going out to do some honest work for the day.

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post #22 of 28 Old 07-01-2019, 07:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Thank you so much! I know, I'm a bit anxious.

The reason why I did not want to go larger on the screen size is primarily because I feel the screen would have to become acoustically transparent and go in front of the tower speakers. The screen would be maybe a foot and a half in front of the wall at that point (a little far out?) and the bottom half of the tower speakers would be exposed (looking maybe a little funny).

The screen will sit in front of a window with black out curtains, so I don't want to drop the screen too low exposing any white window trim..

- Pete
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post #23 of 28 Old 07-01-2019, 07:57 AM
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Still hangin' in...waiting for a worker.


You have loads of room...is the Equipment Location set in stone, or could you move it toward the rear? That is a terrible place for A/V Equipment....totally destroys the Front Stage presentation aspect.



If so...with 13' width and with seating that starts back at 9' you'd have plenty of room for a 110" diagonal screen. The R-820f units are just under 11" wide, and set at the appropriate angle would take up 14" from wall toward center. (28") You have 132" to work with, so a Screen that is 100" wide (w/Frame) would do nicely.



Both your Surrounds and your Atmos need to be brought forward (...at least in relation to your sketch...) unless you set the Center Seating back another 2-3' (yuck to that)



It would help immensely to have the accurate measurements of where that wrapped beam is (how far from the Front) and as to if you have already pulled / where you have placed your A/V wiring.



Ceiling Lighting locations as well. No need to whip out a drawing showing ideal placement considerations where the desired locations are already taken.


Actual Ceiling Height? Sub location?


Let's get your actual plan nailed so you can go on being anxious without being "ANXIOUS".

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post #24 of 28 Old 07-01-2019, 08:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey Guys,

I have attached some pictures of the room, so you get an idea of what I'm working with.

The equipment is set in stone because the build out for it is complete (picture doesn't reflect finished product) - I didn't have anywhere else in the room that I could do a built in and it is something I really wanted.

The width is actually 11' from drywall to the bottom of the half-wall. Does your 110" diagonal screen recommendation still stay the same?

The sketch is just a badly handwritten and not to scale lol, but I would put the Atmos and Surrounds exactly where they need to be per Dolby guidelines.

I WILL GET A MEASUREMENT OF WHERE THE BEAM IS TONIGHT, ACTUAL CEILING HEIGHT, EXACT CEILING LIGHTING LOCATIONS, EXACT SUB LOCATION AND WILL POST IT.

I have not placed/pulled any wiring yet.

- Pete
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Pictures of ceiling attached.
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post #26 of 28 Old 07-01-2019, 05:44 PM - Thread Starter
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- the i-beam is 13 ft from the front wall
- the ceiling is 7' 10 1/2"
- the subwoofer will be placed 26" from the left wall under the screen
- one recessed light is 118 1/2 inches from the front wall and 34 1/2 inches from the left wall.
- the other recessed light is 117 1/2 inches from the front wall and 34" from the right wall.

I only included the two recessed lights because I am assuming these are the only ones of concern for Atmos installation.
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post #27 of 28 Old 07-02-2019, 03:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteJR24 View Post
Hi All,

I moved this from another sub-forum, since this is more of a dedicated theater build.

I have all of my equipment picked out and bought for my home theater room. I am about to purchase all necessary cables and run them in the room. I hope that you can confirm that this will work according to how I outlined below and let me know if you see any issues.

Equipment
- BenQ HT3550
- 100” Silver Ticket Fixed Projector Screen
- Denon AVR-X4400H
- Desktop PC with an HDMI Cable
- Verizon Fios Set Top Box
- Roku
- Verizon Fios Internet Router
- Speakers: All Klipsch – (2) R-820F, (1) R-34C, (2) R-51M, (2) RIC-65, (1) R-120SW

Connections
- Speaker wire will be 225 feet of 12ga CL3R Blue Jeans speaker cable (Belden 5000UE – Gray, it is UL listed and in-wall rated). The longest run is 43' from receiver to speaker.
- Subwoofer Cable will be 12' 6" of Blue Jeans Cable LC-1 Analog Audio Cable with Taversoe Crimp RCA Plugs
- HDMI Cable will be 25 feet of Monoprice Certified Preminum High Speed HDMI Cable (Product #15427) from A/V receiver to projector and smaller lengths of same cable between A/V receiver to sources (6’ 6” receiver to PC, 7’ from receiver to Verizon Fios Set Top Box, 9’ 6” from receiver to Roku, 5’ extra HDMI cable).
- Ethernet Cable will be 5’ to PC, 6’6’” to Fios Set Top Box , 5’ 5” to Receiver, 4’ to Roku of Blue Jeans Cat 6a Patch Cords--BJC C6AP.
- Coaxial Cable will need to be extended for Verizon Fios, so I will get 25 feet of Monoprice 25ft RG6 (18AWG) 750 ohm, Quad Shield, CL2 Coaxial Cable with F Type Connector (product #3033), it is UL listed and in-wall rated). Female to female connector/coupler will be gold from Best Buy and wall plate will be generic from Home Depot.

I want to do this right the first time, so all comments are welcome!

- Pete
I have some comments.

First, I found that 5.1.2 vs 5.1 is just worthless. However, 5.1.4 is a very big gain. Your denon x4400h supports 9.2, 7.1.2, 5.1.4. So why not go with proper 4 speaker atmos in that setup and run 5.1.4?

Your cables are fine, it seems. The cat5e cable can be just the cheapest stuff you can find. It shouldnt be really a consideration in a build.

I have a 12.5 foot wide room. I can a luv seat (no console in center), a recliner, and a table between them. That leaves a couple feet for walking by on one side, but not the other. I don't see any way you're fitting a luv seat and 2 recliners in an 11 foot wide room. Also, consider if you're the main person that might be in there a lone a lot, you want your main seat to be centered. You don't want a centered luv seat that uncenters you. So consider all that.

For a 100" screen, I'd want to sit a lot closer especially if you're projector is considered a 4K projector. The closer you get, the bigger your screen magically feels. No use having a huge room with a bunch of empty space between you and the screen. I'm 7 feet from a 135".

Also, your room is 21' long? If you wanted, you could make a theater 11x15 and have a 6x11 room for your gear, and a couple arcade games that are out of sight. You could also make a second row on a riser if you wanted against the wall or use that back room as a subwoofer infinite baffle room

Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.
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post #28 of 28 Old 07-02-2019, 07:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi markmon1,

Is 13 ft in length enough for .4 Atmos? I was concerned that 9 speakers plus a sub would be a lot in the equivalent of 13ft x 11ft theater area. I know it is preferred, but I didn't think that .2 was that much of a downgrade..

Cable wise, I went with 6a instead of 5e really because I don't know what the network is on so, I'd rather go largest (or larger) and be backwards compatible.

I am certainly thinking about having a second row on a riser. I see that it is a pretty simple process to just buy one online that fits the seating and is the right height. I thought I was going to have to build and carpet something from scratch at first.

- Pete
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