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post #91 of 123 Old 08-18-2019, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnnapolisSony View Post
For those that are wondering how much it costs to remove a 3" lally column and install a new one, it is going to run me $750. I am moving the lally column over 30" so they will bury it inside the wall between the theater room and new laundry room. I had budgeted a little over $1K so it's a win in my book.
Good deal. You will really pat yourself on the back for that when you're done. Money well spent.
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post #92 of 123 Old 08-19-2019, 05:21 AM
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The front AT wall could be simply all about overall room depth, committed to door location, seating layout and how much that leading edge of the soffit could be pushed back, and how
much soffit you want exposed.

You could come at this by trying to plant the seating at room depth that provide smooth audio response. And then work the bullet points above, that offer some wiggle room, to make
things happen as close to what you want, without sacrificing audio performance.
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post #93 of 123 Old 08-19-2019, 05:45 AM
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And if you need the room depth, then maybe it's possible to add up some budget savings and simply farm out a baffle wall design?


I personally would prefer to use a simple AT wall, and visually hide some of that front soffit depth, but if room depth then became an
issue regarding the audio, then a baffle wall might be a solution, that comes with a cost.

Decisions get easier to make as you plant the room's boundaries and things like door locations. And you can then go back to the seating and
work out from there, and explore what the results can be, with the features you envision. Then those desired features can be looked at with a
critical eye, and how each impacts on the room. You might even find you can give up a desired feature, once it is weighed in terms of how it
impacts on the overall room.

That post relocation is likely to end up the best money spent, in the theater. That is coming in at a very reasonable price point.
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post #94 of 123 Old 08-29-2019, 09:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Excellent progress in the new laundry room that is just outside of my HT room. HW heater has been relocated and all new water lines are in place for washing machine, utility sink, drain pump, etc. I had the plumber move a water line completely out of the HT space (ceiling) and he also replaced probably 60-70 feet of low-end copper lines that could be a threat in the future. All relocated and new lines are CPVC. We closed up the floor drain completely and rerouted the condensate drain line and HW tank relief line to drain/blow in utility sink.

Lally column gets moved early next week and then it will be time for Sheetrock and tile in the laundry room. I am seriously considering going DD+GG on the inside wall of the laundry room (the wall that is shared with my HT room). My initial plan is to go with clips & channel DD+GG on the HT room side of that wall so essentially I would have 4 layers of drywall between the HT room and the laundry room. Good idea or unnecessary? This same wall contains a doorway so my contractor will likely have to figure out how to build or order a custom jamb to handle the total wall thickness. Definitely going with a solid core door there too.

I decided on another spot for my gear rack which will be in between the laundry room and the furnace - still outside of my HT room. I decided against putting the rack where the HW tank used to be in the laundry room mainly due to the distance to the front of HT room (speakers, subs, etc.) and so we can build a closet (for light storage) on that side of the laundry room that will hide but still provide access to the sump pump, drain pump, etc.

This laundry room stuff is a PITA but it all has to be done before moving forward with the HT room. Doing things right and in order can sometimes be painful.
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post #95 of 123 Old 08-29-2019, 10:13 AM
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Thanks for posting updates. You are going to be an inspiration to many others with similar challenges!

FWIW, I would only do the DD/GG in the laundry room if you have a plan to seal the door well. That is solid core + a kit with auto door stop and rubber stops. Otherwise, the door will be your weak point and likely obviate the work on the walls. However, if you are willing to do all those things between HT room and LR, I'd say go for it. That will pay off. You ought to be able to run the washer on max spin cycle and not hear a thing in the HT room.

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post #96 of 123 Old 08-29-2019, 01:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HT Geek View Post
Thanks for posting updates. You are going to be an inspiration to many others with similar challenges!

FWIW, I would only do the DD/GG in the laundry room if you have a plan to seal the door well. That is solid core + a kit with auto door stop and rubber stops. Otherwise, the door will be your weak point and likely obviate the work on the walls. However, if you are willing to do all those things between HT room and LR, I'd say go for it. That will pay off. You ought to be able to run the washer on max spin cycle and not hear a thing in the HT room.
I would totally invest the money on soundproofing the door. So I presume you are talking about an acoustic door seal kit that includes jamb seals, a threshold seal and an automatic door bottom? What will something like this run me these days? I have a 32" door there...
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post #97 of 123 Old 08-29-2019, 03:03 PM
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I would totally invest the money on soundproofing the door. So I presume you are talking about an acoustic door seal kit that includes jamb seals, a threshold seal and an automatic door bottom? What will something like this run me these days? I have a 32" door there...
Yes, exactly.

Something like this for the perimeter of the door stops: Pemko 303AV3684

It's only 1/4" thick rubber, so check your gaps. With a new door the gap should be 1/16"-1/8" or so all around. Also, that kit is designed for an 84" tall door (7 feet). You can trim it easily with a miter saw or similar tool. There are other options if you don't like that aesthetically, though I find no one notices it (I have those on the outside of my HT door, which swings inward). The kit includes 3 identical length pieces and should cost you $25-50 depending on merchant and shipping costs.

Automatic Door Bottoms: Zero International is the gold standard. Pricey though. I used the TMS Heavy Duty version. Cost was about $130 shipped. HOWEVER, I do not recommend it. Why? Horrible off-gassing. I mean BAD (like I can still smell it over a year later).

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post #98 of 123 Old 09-03-2019, 04:07 PM - Thread Starter
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I returned home from work today...

...and my house is still standing.

The lally column relocation went off without a hitch. The contractor centered the replacement column in the exterior wall of the room perfectly. It paid to go about doing this the right way and I can sleep at night knowing it was approved by a licensed structural engineer.

The next furthest column you see in the distance is actually two columns (one is just behind it) and they will be hidden behind my false wall. The location of the false wall and the perimeter wall are marked with duct tape in the photo. This angle is from the back wall of the room looking forward.




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post #99 of 123 Old 09-04-2019, 06:13 AM
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Is the post simply sitting on the wood, or is that some sort of optical illusion?
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post #100 of 123 Old 09-04-2019, 06:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Is the post simply sitting on the wood, or is that some sort of optical illusion?
Wait, so they weren't supposed to put the flange for the lally column directly on top of the bottom plate 2x4???

I'm kidding. It does look like an illusion. They notched out the bottom plate stud and then bolted the flange of the lally directly to the concrete slab.
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post #101 of 123 Old 09-04-2019, 07:10 AM
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I was serious and more then a little concerned...

Must be a nice thick cement floor then.

Which is a good thing. Between a nice thick floor and an oversized steel beam, that was rather simple.
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post #102 of 123 Old 09-04-2019, 11:44 AM
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I wish I could have found someone like you did to get rid of at least one of my columns. Congrats!
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post #103 of 123 Old 09-04-2019, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
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I was serious and more then a little concerned...

Must be a nice thick cement floor then.

Which is a good thing. Between a nice thick floor and an oversized steel beam, that was rather simple.
I was surprised they didn't cut the floor and put in a footing. I may check about moving mine now. My foundation is sitting on rock so I wonder if they would need to put a footing in or not. I remember seeing a rock about the size of a VW bug in my back yard before they hauled it off.
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post #104 of 123 Old 09-04-2019, 02:42 PM
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In my last house I moved one and had to put in a 2'x2'x1' deep footing. I'm in MN and pulled a permit it was also in the basement of a two story house so that may have played into it. Tell you what cutting the floor out was a hellish mess lol. the cost was minimal since I did it myself and not having to walk around a 3' wall to get to the hallway made it worth the effort.
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post #105 of 123 Old 09-05-2019, 07:20 AM - Thread Starter
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I was surprised they didn't cut the floor and put in a footing. I may check about moving mine now.
Let's just say I had more than one conversation with the engineer about whether or not a footing was/is required. Both times he was adamant about not needing a footer. It helps that the new column is only about 6 ft. from where the beam ends at the foundation wall. I'm guessing if that span was larger he might have wanted to see a footer poured.
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post #106 of 123 Old 09-05-2019, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by AnnapolisSony View Post
Let's just say I had more than one conversation with the engineer about whether or not a footing was/is required. Both times he was adamant about not needing a footer. It helps that the new column is only about 6 ft. from where the beam ends at the foundation wall. I'm guessing if that span was larger he might have wanted to see a footer poured.
I have one column I would like to move about 5', but the span from the end to it would go from 16' to 21'. I could also add a column about 3' from the foundation wall to not have the span so long. That second column would be hidden behind a false wall for an AT screen. I just need to find an engineer and company to do it at a reasonable price.

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post #107 of 123 Old 09-17-2019, 08:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Update

I am happy to report that this past weekend I finished up the FINAL stint of drywall removal on the back wall of the room..so that should do it for demo. And I was just starting to get the hang of it and be neat and tidy. It only took me 35 seconds to get it all down.


All framing is down from the old bulkheads so all ductwork (and there is a lot of it) and beams are now fully exposed.

My carpenter is due back next week to frame out remainder of the new laundry room, install drywall, install a tile floor (laundry room only) and frame out the perimeter walls of the HT room. My plumber can then finalize his hookups in the laundry room and we'll finally have a functional washer, dryer and utility sink down there.

The plan is to have him install 5/8" DD+GG inside the laundry room (wall that is shared with the HT) so I'll have a total of 4 layers of 5/8" DW between the laundry and the HT. And some Roxul safe'n'sound in stud bays just for good measure.

HVAC contractor due in this week to finalize the plan to tap in central/air heat to various parts of our basement and, most importantly, plan for a dedicated thermostat / zone controller / duct mufflers etc. for the HT room. And fingers crossed it doesn't cost a fortune for him to move the suction line over a bit so I can reduce the size of the bulkhead going back towards the front of the room.

Not exactly sure what my time frame is for proceeding with drywall installation in the HT room (due to other ongoing projects throughout the house) but all walls and ceilings will be 5/8" DD+GG decoupled on clips and channel.

I reached out to Jeff P. who was tremendously helpful and who has brought a great deal of clarity to this build for me. Many more conversations lie ahead with him I am sure so I am thankful to have access to him as a consultant. The one thing that has become abundantly clear to me in recent weeks is that I have a lot to learn about soundproofing construction. Fortunately I've also got a qualified, trustworthy contractor who I can count on to do things right.

Below are a couple of pics looking towards the back wall from the front. Duct tape marks out perimeter walls going up next week and the first row of seating, bar/snack ledge (2nd row) and false wall are all marked in blue masking tape. And if you are wondering why I still have a section of carpet down there...I promised my wife I'd leave a strip from the bottom of the stairs over to the laundry room so she won't have to walk across cold concrete to get to and from her new laundry room. #happywifehappylife







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post #108 of 123 Old 09-17-2019, 08:11 PM
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There is something satisfying about a bare room down to the studs: that feeling you have no limits. The raw potential.

You are on a roll! The new room is gonna be awesome.
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post #109 of 123 Old 09-18-2019, 01:22 PM
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Looking good. Kind of making me want to rip out what I have and start over.
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post #110 of 123 Old 09-19-2019, 01:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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There is something satisfying about a bare room down to the studs: that feeling you have no limits. The raw potential.
Yeah, it is a good feeling. Unfortunately, the more empty it is the more $$$ it costs to build it all back up. LOL.

Believe it or not I am still trying to get a bunch of misc. things sorted up in the ceiling. The amount of live (and dead) electrical wire (for lights I suppose?) running up there is laughable.

And the guy who laid out all of the coaxial cable above the drop ceilings throughout the whole basement must have been drunk as well. So I am in the process of getting all of that sorted out, running new coaxial cable (thank God that stuff is relatively cheap), replacing old splitters, etc. And that isn't even addressing the home run feed that I will need to run to the rack for the HT room's set top box.

Slowly but surely getting everything cleaned up to allow for highest ceiling possible, lighting, etc. It takes a village...
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post #111 of 123 Old 09-19-2019, 01:52 PM
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LoL ^^^

Yes, I can relate. There is no turning back now, regardless of the cost. Full steam ahead!

BTW, I would suggest running conduit in the ceiling anywhere you think could have future strategic value (e.g. laundry room to wherever). And make sure you leave at least one pull wire inside (preferably two).

Also a good time to think about whether or not you want an Atmos setup.

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post #112 of 123 Old 09-19-2019, 02:04 PM
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Talking

Looks Nice! Part of me wants to gut my GF's basement (at least the main area) and start over. But I don't think I will. I would however like to add some more can lights as whoever did the remodel did it on the cheap. They used spray foam insulation though so running new stuff up there is a little trickier. My kids hockey coach is an electrician and I'm thinking about asking him what he thinks on what it would cost me to just have him over to help me get what I want done.

And I agree with the above post. Run conduit to places where you think you may want to get to again if you plan to drywall the ceiling. For low voltage I used what's knows as smurf tube. It's extremely easy to work with and relatively cheap. And yep put a pull string in your runs. One pull is enough provide you remember if you ever use it to tie a new pull string to the end of the cable you are pulling. Here's another tip for getting the pull string in the run. Take a plastic grocery bag or something like it. I just cut the top handle part off. Tie it to one end of the pull string then fold it up and put it in one end of the conduit run. Take your shop vac to the other end of the run and suck it through the conduit. Works like a charm!

And if I was building new I'd definitely go with an atmos setup!!!
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post #113 of 123 Old 11-05-2019, 05:23 PM - Thread Starter
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I didn't realize it had been that long since I've updated this thread. Not nearly as much as I’d like to report about the HT because we have been busy finishing up the new laundry room. It took 3 weeks longer than I would have liked but an experienced and meticulous drywall contractor is always worth waiting for (if he’s busy on other jobs and hard to get, you know he’s good). Especially if he is potentially going to be the one to do your HT which is a helluva lot more complex.

So, the first tubes of Green Glue of this build were officially cracked when he hung the inside wall of the laundry room (shared wall with the HT). I went with 5/8” DD+GG. The other side of that wall - inside the HT - will be DD+GG on clips and channel. I had my contractor hang a cheap temporary door in between the HT and the LR until we get drywall up in the HT and we can get more precise measurements for custom doors/jambs for the two doorways. So the laundry room is done and the washer and dryer are in place and operational. THEY ARE OUT OF THE KITCHEN! #happywifehappylife This whole process has seemed never-ending because almost every move I make in the surrounding basement rooms seems to affect what we are planning to do in the HT.Or vice versa. We are getting there slowly but surely.

So while the laundry room was underway with contractors, I focused on removing more drywall, trim, drop ceilings/grid and bulkhead/framing from the other side of the basement so that I can have all of the necessary HVAC and electric modifications done at once. I am happy to report that all necessary demo throughout the entire basement is 100% complete. Besides cutting out all of the old alarm system wiring and accidentally severing our main phone line in the process (which resulted in a $130 visit from Verizon), it went well. What can I say, I love demoing and disassembling things. I also tackled the rats nest of coaxial cables and misc. phone/alarm wires that were running every which way throughout the basement in the ceiling between the floor joists. I ran all new coax cable and eliminated unnecessary splitters (more than I care to admit) and cut out some old abandoned HVAC lines. Most importantly, I was able to run a new home run from our FiOS ONT box to the location of my HT rack for my set top box later down the road.

So the plan for the HT room is to use 5/8”DD+GG on clips and channel for all walls and ceilings. Estimates from the drywall guy are due in any day now. A false wall will be built after the perimeter walls are built and that will contain my AT screen with my 3 front speakers and 2 subs just behind.

HVAC contractor comes in tomorrow to add supply and return vents to various parts of the basement, including in the HT. Decided against going with a dedicated thermostat (separate zone) in the HT room as 2 of the 3 contractors that walked it felt they had a better chance of evenly balancing things out in our basement as a whole by adding supply / returns to all four areas/rooms in the basement. Electrical contractor will be up next to run dedicated circuits, sort out receptacle locations and figure out lighting locations with me. Once I have the HVAC and electrical complete, then I can start planning out my ceiling approach and how I will decouple around the beam, etc. Maximizing the height below the support beam is super critical as the bottom of the beam sits at 81” to begin with. It is critical that I maintain as much headroom as possible underneath the beam since the PJ will throw right underneath it (it will be located just behind the beam). As I’ve said before, I have more ductwork than I care to admit up in the ceiling in the front of the room so I plan to address as much as possible with adhesive sound deadening mat (not cheap!) prior to filling all of the ceiling joists with Rockwool safe-n-sound above the DD ceiling.

While things were moving slooooooow with the laundry room, I was busy watching for and taking advantage of sales and discounts on gear that I have selected for the room. I got a great deal on the AVR I wanted and saved serious $$$ there. The highlight so far was that I lucked out and located a gentlemen down in TX that had 3 Triad Silver LCRs that were brand-new-in-the-box. I was able to negotiate a great deal with him and, in the end, I ended up paying only what I would pay if I ordered 2 of them new. I unpacked the speakers upon arrival and I can say with certainty that they have never been used (as the owner stated). It was as if they were still packed from the factory in the plastic and original boxes. I was blown away by how large, well-built and HEAVY the Triad speakers are. I knew the dimensions of these speakers ahead of time but they just seem much larger to me still (maybe it is the weight?). Either way, the quality and the workmanship of these things is just a thing of beauty. I am dying to listen to them so I will have to see what I can figure out in the coming weeks to do just that. I plan to take advantage of upcoming sales in the near future to pick up the rest of my surround and rear surround Triads. I also plan to pull the trigger on a PJ soon so I can start to narrow things down on screen size, throw distance, mounting height, mounting reinforcement, above-ceiling conduit locations, etc. I am hopeful that I can get away with a screen in the 120 – 135” range (16:9) and my gut is that 135” is pushing it. Unfortunately I have a very low ceiling height – especially in the front of the room – so this really restricts the height of my screen (vertically).

For some reason I am really anxious to run speaker wire and Cat6 but I know that I need to relax on that until I get the HVAC and electrical behind me. I am also going to wire the room for 4 subs despite my plan to start off with just two up front. I want the flexibility of adding/switching at least 1 sub in a back corner if I am not happy with the LFE balance when the room is finished.

In recent weeks I’ve also ripped my entire bluray collection to .mkv so eventually I will be headed down the rabbit hole of storage on a NAS, using PLEX, etc. Never too early to start working on content, right?

Lots to do but I am taking things slow and having fun with it. Please hit me with any and all suggestions and comments if you've got any!
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post #114 of 123 Old 11-18-2019, 04:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Placed my order for the remainder of my Triads this past weekend. Went with 4 ONWALL BRONZE SURROUNDS so that I have the option to mount them on the wall if I do not build them into MDF columns. I decided to have Triad paint the grilles SW Iron Ore in the event that I do decide to go on wall with them.
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You might look at projectors that have some vertical alignment options, with regards to the beam.

Is there anything in place on the htpc side of things already, outside of some hard drive storage space?

Great speaker selection...
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post #116 of 123 Old 11-19-2019, 06:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
You might look at projectors that have some vertical alignment options, with regards to the beam.
I have been leaning heavily towards the EPSON 5050 which should be able to handle that just fine. I am still open to others in the $2800-$3500 price range but honestly I cannot see myself spending much more than that on a PJ. The tentative plan right now is to mount the PJ just behind the beam and at a height just low enough to throw under it. Super critical for me to keep that finished (decoupled) beam height as high as possible. I will be talking with Jeff more about that this week. I am close to purchasing a PJ so that I can play with it on ladders etc. prior to putting up DW in the room. I want to be 100% sure of how low it will need to be mounted, final image size, fan noise, etc. prior to any DW going up. I can't tell any of that until I actually have that PJ in-hand.

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Is there anything in place on the htpc side of things already, outside of some hard drive storage space?
No. I have not purchased any gear for the HTPC side of things. I was leaning towards using Plex with a Nvidia Shield Pro, NAS for storage, etc. but I really haven't done a lot of research in that area as of yet. I have a 4KATV so perhaps I can run Plex through it and skip the Nvidia Shield altogether. So if you have any suggestions there, let me know.

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Great speaker selection...
Audio is definitely more of a priority for me this time around so my budget is much heavier on the audio side. I also plan to start with two HSU's up front and will wire for two additional in the back just in case I am not happy with how the LFE plays out in the room. I'd hate to get the room built and wish I had wired for more options in the rear.

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post #117 of 123 Old 11-19-2019, 08:22 AM
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Installing wiring up front, is always a good idea. Pretty inexpensive if you never use it, when you are doing the labor. Big
upside with not much of a downside. Decoupling the beam, while preserving room height is important and worth the effort
it will require.


I keep looking at ever cheaper and more plentiful cores in CPUS and then take note of what mikeLA is doing with six cores.
Two cores for UnRaid and a virtualized htpc with four cores, for Bluray content, scaled to 4K with madVR. Mike also pairs a
Zidoo X9S with it.

I know of one person ripping UHD in a virtual machine, so eight cores could add a virtual ripping machine, and thrown
another core at the htpc. Watch a movie (or two) while watching one. Now I am looking at a $200 9600F or a $299 Black
Friday 9700K cpu upgrade since I need intel for 4K optical disk playback.


I also wonder if a virtualized ripping machine, would that be an excuse to maybe cap hard drive storage. One or two hard drives
for content storage and the ability to rip content while watching a movie, might be a way to treat ripped content as "disposable".
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post #118 of 123 Old 11-29-2019, 08:25 AM
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Hey, just found this thread from the Plex one. Congrats on your build!!

Jeff is the real deal, but let me know if you need some more local help / advice!
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post #119 of 123 Old 12-01-2019, 07:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey, just found this thread from the Plex one. Congrats on your build!!

Jeff is the real deal, but let me know if you need some more local help / advice!
@DougUSMC , thanks for stopping by. It is good to know that I have someone local in MD to lean on (I am in Severna Park). Jeff has been a tremendous help to me in recent months and I plan to continue to consult with him on a regular basis as I continue down this glorious rabbit hole!

The one thing I promised myself when I started this build was that I would TAKE MY TIME AND NOT RUSH THINGS. And I have stuck to my guns on that. The adjacent laundry room took a little longer than I expected so that naturally delayed things in the HT. We are renovating our kitchen (above the HT) beginning in March so my kitchen contractor and I have decided to hold off on DW in the HT until after the kitchen is complete. It would be foolish to build anything underneath the kitchen before it is renovated for a multitude of reasons.

As you may have read, I have an extremely challenging build as I am contending with an unusually low ceiling in my basement. However, I am determined to make it work. I have committed to double layer of 5/8" drywall on clips and channel ceiling and walls. I just finalized HVAC modifications in the room (and throughout the rest of our basement) so the next step is to bring in my electrician to finalize finalize LED lighting locations, sconce locations (on columns), receptables, etc. Then I will be tackling soundproofing all of the ductwork in (and just outside of) the room with Dynamat. I will also be replacing all of the cheap fiberglass batting (that still remains in the ceiling joists) with Rockwool after I finish covering all of the supply/returns with Dynamat. All stud bays in the walls will be Rockwool as well. Unfortunately, I have more supply ducts running in the ceiling / joist bays than I'd like and I have a two large trunks that cross through the front of the room as well - all of which needs to be covered with Dynamat prior to DW. Man is that stuff expensive! Needless to say, the amount of supply and returns in the ceiling makes things trickier for light locations and PJ mount reinforcement, etc. We'll get there though.

I need to get on over to your thread and see what it's all about. One thing is for certain, I am going to need some direction as far as Plex is concerned. I would like to use Plex in my room as I currently have 150+ of my BRs burned into MKV format (sitting on a tiny 4TB external hard drive at the moment). I plan to buy a Synology NAS for storage. I also have a 4KATV to work in the mix as well but would consider adding a Nvidia Shield Pro if that is a better option for Plex. I am no expert in the area of computers, NAS, etc. but I am trying to think/plan ahead so that when my room is ready, I will be ahead of the game in terms of streaming my already-owned content. I am a super organized person in terms of files, etc. so the idea of the Plex library is just crazy satisfying to me. If you have any ideas on how I should set it up, perhaps we can chat on PM and I can make some decisions on what equipment would be best for me to pick up.

I really took advantage of Black Friday this year and purchased the remainder of my surround and rear surround speakers from Triad (they arrive this week) and I also pulled the trigger on my dual HSU subs as well. I also decided to pick up the UB820 on sale in the event that I ever need to play a physical disc in my room. I am very very close to pulling the trigger on my PJ - in fact that may happen as soon as tomorrow. I am likely going 4K now and have switched my focus over to the SONY 295ES. The fact is that I need the PJ in-hand soon so that I can start to make decisions about screen size, throw, PJ location, etc. Despite the lower ceiling height up front, I am thinking I can get away with a screen in the 126"-130" range.

Lots to do but plenty of time to do it. I won't even see DW until April/May at best so now I just have to use the winter months to get everything wired into walls and ceilings. I will also be putting up the clips and channel myself so the only thing my DW contractor needs to do when he arrives is sling DW!
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post #120 of 123 Old 12-02-2019, 05:54 PM
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Very cool. Our builds sounds pretty different, but if there's one thing I've learned on this forum is that you can steal LOTs of good ideas, from LOTs of different folks. If you get one solid lead on something I did, I'll feel like I contributed back!

Taking your time is a good thing, but it's also relative around here. "3 years" is slow to some (me), 3 months to others. I didn't do enough soundproofing when I built, and it's something I've regretted.

Plex is super simple. It really is just "install and let it sniff your directory". After that it's only a matter of 1) Where do you store everything, 2) What is your method of choice for accessing and controlling it. I just "upgraded" from a 12Tb WD PR4100 to a 40Tb one. Then again, I'm in the 650+ range on my movie collection, and the UHDs are starting to outnumber everything else - they suck up space FAST!! I've been through 3 different setups now, so I'm more than happy to offer any advice (and ability to avoid MY mistakes) that I can. You're not that far from me (or @Brolic Beast ), if you need to check things out. I'd say that he and I are pretty far apart on the spectrum too, so there's a lot to see in between. He's all Triads on his speakers, I'm all DIY. The only Triads I have are my 4 In-Ceiling Silvers, and they're going up on the Classifieds as soon as I finish building more DIY to replace them.

Definitely check out the calculator on Projector Central for help with that screen calculation.
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