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post #1 of 17 Old 07-19-2019, 06:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Club House Theater Build

So, I am finally getting ready to start my first dedicated home theater build!
I will be doing all the build work myself. I hope by posting this thread I can get some good advice on some of the glaring and obvious pitfalls and mistakes in my initial design and build-out.

My initial thoughts and goals for this room are as follows:

1) Ability to open the room the rest of the basement space
This is a basement room; I would like double doors in the back of the room because it enables me to open the room to the rest of the basement. I also have the option to have a door on the north wall which leads to the stairs to the 1st floor.
The difficulty with the door in the back of the room is dealing with the riser. I think the solution would be to shift the second-row seats slightly to the south and do not extend the riser to the back wall, keep the riser as small as possible, as shown on my drawing (The ceiling height is 8ft). As I understand it, this would eliminate the possibility of using the riser as a bass trap though!

2) Soundproofing
As I mentioned this is a basement room, so the screen wall and south wall are both concrete walls. I will be using resilient channel and double drywall with green glue throughout the room walls and ceiling. I do not require this room to be entirely soundproof just to dampen the sound enough that when everyone is sleeping on the second floor (not the first floor) I can have movies playing a loud level.
I am not super concerned with the double doors in the back of the theater I figure I can make them heavy enough and seal them well enough to suppress the sound. Whatever sound gets through will leak into the rest of the basement which is isolated to the 1st floor of my home.

3) False wall
I can build this room length up to 25ft long, although it is not shown on my current drawing. My current screen is 125” but it is not an AT screen, I think I will eventually change the screen though so I would have to plan all surround speaker locations, seating and riser around this assumption.

I would be open to any suggestions or opinions on changing the layout, especially thoughts on how small the surface area is for the riser, would it be an issue being that small?

My current equipment:
Elac Unifi towers for the front and center speaker
Subs: SVS PB100 & SVS PC12+
Screen Elunevision 4K
Yamaha Aventage 3050
Would like to purchase
Elac in-wall surround and back
Sub upgrade – possibly a couple of DIY
Projector – I would like to purchase an Optima UHD65 or Epson 5040ub
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Last edited by Thefallguy2; 07-19-2019 at 09:57 AM.
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post #2 of 17 Old 07-20-2019, 09:46 AM
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Didn't see you mention it, but you should also add fiberglass batt insulation to the cavities for the walls and ceiling even if they are interior rooms for noise reduction purposes. This will likely even have a bigger impact than the use of reliant clips and green glue you are already planning on doing.
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post #3 of 17 Old 07-20-2019, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thefallguy2 View Post
As I mentioned this is a basement room, so the screen wall and south wall are both concrete walls. I will be using resilient channel and double drywall with green glue throughout the room walls and ceiling.

You should be using furring channel with isolation clips instead of resilient channel, sound attenuating duct work, and backer boxes for any holes cut in the drywall for lights, speakers, outlets etc.



If you used Fusion Jive seating a row of three is 87.5 inches wide. That would leave ample aisles on both sides of 28 inches and you wouldn't need to offset the second row to the side. Not my theater here are the Jives some rows with love seats to save even more room. Pictured with the convertible armrests.
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post #4 of 17 Old 07-20-2019, 03:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advise guys.
Those fusion jive seats look like a great option. What do you guys think of the riser, I want to keep it as small as possible and it will not extend all the way to the back wall.
Because of this can I still use the riser as a bass trap?

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post #5 of 17 Old 07-20-2019, 04:12 PM - Thread Starter
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BTW
What is the difference between resilient and furring channel?

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post #6 of 17 Old 07-20-2019, 04:16 PM
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using that riser as bass absorber would probably have no measurable effect as designed.

A small point, you are showing 6 ft row to row, you really need 6 1/2 ft to make sure you don't kick the row in front.




resilient channel is screwed directly to the studs, Furring is held in place with isolation clips. Some of the issues with RC https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=h...8.pdf&pdf=true

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post #7 of 17 Old 07-20-2019, 04:41 PM
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my take on this space
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post #8 of 17 Old 07-20-2019, 04:44 PM
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these are the steps I've drawn: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...big-steps.html
It is hard to tell but you need to be careful not to put your ears at 1/2 of the effective room length where a bass null will be present.

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post #9 of 17 Old 07-20-2019, 05:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey big I'm loving that layout!

I actually have a little more room that I can play with. I can push the length to about 26.6ft.
I have a high and lower ceiling as shown in the image.

The first step of the riser would be under the low ceiling. So I am concerned about ceiling height!

The heights I have shown is without the drywall ceiling or the drycore floor I intend on installing. So I may lose about 4" of height.
Not knowing how high the riser would be at this point, what are you initial thoughts on the ceiling height?

I was really hoping to get the bar at the back but I didn't think I had the space.


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post #10 of 17 Old 07-20-2019, 08:50 PM
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my plan would fit in an 8 ft room, you have more. Unless your guests are over 7 ft tall.
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post #11 of 17 Old 07-21-2019, 11:53 AM
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Why are your eyes 13'-ish off the screen? And at what room depth are those ceiling elevation changes happening?

And where is that side wall door leading to?

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post #12 of 17 Old 07-21-2019, 12:09 PM
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And why is that screen mounted so high? (I hope that is just quick sketch because you have a serious ergonomic issue, as drawn. )
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post #13 of 17 Old 07-22-2019, 05:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
Why are your eyes 13'-ish off the screen? And at what room depth are those ceiling elevation changes happening?



And where is that side wall door leading to?
Hi Tedd
I have the 1st row 11ft from the screen but I guess when your seated your eyes are about 13ft away. With a 125inch screen are you saying I should move the 1st row forward?

I have attached a drawing showing the ceiling elevations, the drawings are obviously not to scale but the dimensions shown are accurate.
I just wanted to show the low ceiling in proximity to the riser. I am hoping there will be enough head room so it doesn't feel like the ceiling is closing in on you.

The side door leads to the stairs to my main floor. I was thinking of closing it off to reduce sound from traveling upstairs. But it would be convenient to keep it.



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post #14 of 17 Old 07-22-2019, 05:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
And why is that screen mounted so high? (I hope that is just quick sketch because you have a serious ergonomic issue, as drawn. )
The drawings are not to scale I just wanted to show the location of the screen. That being said what would be a good height for the screen. Obviously the higher the screen the lower the riser can be but what is a good height?

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post #15 of 17 Old 07-22-2019, 05:37 PM
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where your guest breaks their leg in the dark

an area that you accidentally step in and wedge in your foot is a liability trap.
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post #16 of 17 Old 07-22-2019, 06:28 PM
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There are limitations as to how high a screen can be, for the front row. The riser height is actually about the second row being able to see the bottom of the screen, over seated front row heads.
I would try to plant front row eyes about 1/3rd up the screen height, and look at how the riser works, with the room height.

If you look at your projector manual, you can see where the projector will land, and at what height, for what screen size and mounting height. A to scale side sightline diagram is a useful tool, to
explore the interaction of screen size/mounting height/riser height/ where the projector ends up.
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post #17 of 17 Old 07-22-2019, 07:22 PM
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I've found this online calculator handles the geometry of riser height requirements pretty good. Without specific measurements I use 42 inches to the top of your head and 36 to the eyes for home theater recliners. A specific chair might vary.

http://www.diymovierooms.com/Home-Th...s/Riser-Height
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