AT (Acoustically Transparent) Theater build thread - Page 16 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #451 of 755 Old 10-17-2019, 06:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Folks - anyone has experience using Kilz PVA primer? I was recommended to use this for new sheet rock. So I purchased it for the rest of the basement. But I am seeing some negative reviews online. So I am concerned. Home Depot does not tint primers. So for theater room I will pick up from Sherwin Williams and ask them to tint dark gray so that both red as well as black can be applied on top.

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post #452 of 755 Old 10-17-2019, 07:06 PM
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Drywall primers are intended to coat the surface such that there is even porosity and drying time. Otherwise the differences between paper on the drywall and the drywall joint compound will be very obvious when they dry. Pretty much any PVA primer will to the trick. I've used kilz and it tends to be a little more expensive than other PVAs . Didn't have any problems I don't know what negative reviews you are seeing.
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post #453 of 755 Old 10-17-2019, 07:24 PM
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I’ve had zero problems with any KILZ product I’ve ever used. Remember there are a lot of idiots out there writing reviews and people that will give a product a bad review simply because a store employee looked at them the wrong way.




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post #454 of 755 Old 10-17-2019, 07:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Drywall primers are intended to coat the surface such that there is even porosity and drying time. Otherwise the differences between paper on the drywall and the drywall joint compound will be very obvious when they dry. Pretty much any PVA primer will to the trick. I've used kilz and it tends to be a little more expensive than other PVAs . Didn't have any problems I don't know what negative reviews you are seeing.
Hi Jeff - kilz makes a couple of primers. Kilz 2 is a bit more expensive and I was going to buy that but the home Depot guy asked me to buy the PVA which was cheaper. When I looked at it online there were a few people saying things like it does not spread evenly, too sticky, patchy etc. I have not used this pva product before. Hence I was asking for input.

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post #455 of 755 Old 10-17-2019, 07:48 PM
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you want PVA for drywall
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post #456 of 755 Old 10-17-2019, 07:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
you want PVA for drywall
Thanks.

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post #457 of 755 Old 10-17-2019, 07:50 PM - Thread Starter
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you want PVA for drywall
Jeff - what about the theater room with the red and black walls? I was hoping to use a gray tinted primer here but kilz PVA does not come in gray.

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post #458 of 755 Old 10-18-2019, 02:55 AM
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Awwww C'mon now.


PVA is absolutely not required for Raw Drywall..... PVA is thicker and heavier bodied, and so will hide wall defects (Pin Holes / small cracks) better. That's just an added advantage to help make do for poor Drywall finishing...of which there is a lot of out there. So Commercial Painters tend to prefer it. They like "easy".....less work, and applying one additional coat of primer isn't on many of their agendas.

If a good Acrylic primer is applied in a Very light coat "first" to seal the Compound areas...the 2nd full coat will then effectively cover and prep the wall for any Acrylic Finish Paint. Then there will be no uneven paint absorbtion.

Here's a tip.....ANY good Primer/Paint can effectively do what it says it can do...prime even new Drywall. It just has to be applied correctly in the manner described above. A light coat to seal porous Compound areas....subsequent coat/s to cover.

I have to regularly prime new Drywall and get it perfect so as to apply high contrast Screen paints, as well as effect large wall repairs when installing Transducers, and I quite often use a White Primer/Paint to do so...with perfect results.

However with the OP using very deep, darker hued Colors, the use of a Grey Primer is well advised. ESPECIALLY on the Black Ceiling!!!


Kilz-2 "GREY" Primer here at Home Depot

Zinsser Bull Eye 2 "Grey" Primer at Lowes


Both work......the Zinsser is more easily sprayed without dilution....and is self leveling.

You'll pay 2x as much for Primer at SW and not get anything that is any better than either of the above.

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post #459 of 755 Old 10-18-2019, 03:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Awwww C'mon now.


PVA is absolutely not required for Raw Drywall.....if a good Acrylic primer is applied in a light coat "first" to seal the Compound areas. The 2nd full coat will then effectively cover and prep the wall for any Acrylic Finish Paint.



Kilz-2 "GREY" Primer here at Home Depot


Zinsser Bull Eye 2 "Grey" Primer at Lowes



Both work......the Zinsser is more easily sprayed without dilution....and is self leveling.

You'll pay 2x as much for Primer at SW and not get anything that is any better than either of the above.
We are only doing one coat of primer and two coats of paint.

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post #460 of 755 Old 10-18-2019, 07:18 AM
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We are only doing one coat of primer and two coats

That would seem to be that would seem to be only a typical response considering else that your contractors have had you to deal with. Compromising the overall quality of the work simply to avoid doing a small amount more work. One coat of White primer would be problematical at best, if it was just for a lighter color. But for dark red and black surfaces and applying a gray primer heavily enough to try to cover with just one coat then you're almost guaranteed to have some areas of drywall compound which will have noticeably different texture due to absorbing an additional moisture , or at the very least the resulting color shading will be less opaque in those areas.

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post #461 of 755 Old 10-18-2019, 07:24 AM
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After looking at your flooring pictures again, that just looks like left over thinset/mortar from the tile that you used to have...

Go rent a floor scrapper and scrape that s**t flat..


https://www.houseofhepworths.com/201...nt-foundation/
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post #462 of 755 Old 10-18-2019, 08:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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That would seem to be that would seem to be only a typical response considering else that your contractors have had you to deal with. Compromising the overall quality of the work simply to avoid doing a small amount more work. One coat of White primer would be problematical at best, if it was just for a lighter color. But for dark red and black surfaces and applying a gray primer heavily enough to try to cover with just one coat then you're almost guaranteed to have some areas of drywall compound which will have noticeably different texture due to absorbing an additional moisture , or at the very least the resulting color shading will be less opaque in those areas.
Got to fire everyone I guess. One thing I am realizing is if you need it perfect you got to do it yourself.

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post #463 of 755 Old 10-18-2019, 08:51 AM
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Got to fire everyone I guess. One thing I am realizing is if you need it perfect you got to do it yourself.

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I think you finally figured it out!
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post #464 of 755 Old 10-18-2019, 08:54 AM
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One thing I am realizing is if you need it perfect you got to do it yourself.
Yup! There is no other way...
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post #465 of 755 Old 10-18-2019, 09:00 AM - Thread Starter
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After looking at your flooring pictures again, that just looks like left over thinset/mortar from the tile that you used to have...



Go rent a floor scrapper and scrape that s**t flat..





https://www.houseofhepworths.com/201...nt-foundation/
It definitely is thinset. I need to see if I can rent a machine like what you linked.

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post #466 of 755 Old 10-18-2019, 09:16 AM
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It definitely is thinset. I need to see if I can rent a machine like what you linked.

Took me all of 2 minutes to find a New Jersey Home Depot with exactly what you need.


it's Right Here...and Right Here...
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post #467 of 755 Old 10-18-2019, 09:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Took me all of 2 minutes to find a New Jersey Home Depot with exactly what you need.


it's Right Here...
Talking to them.

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post #468 of 755 Old 10-18-2019, 09:18 AM
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I am not sure but it might create maddening amount of dust. Can you attach it to a vacuum? I did it with with this It will help you to clean better in the corners without any dust at your comfortable pace.
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post #469 of 755 Old 10-18-2019, 09:24 AM
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I am not sure but it might create maddening amount of dust. Can you attach it to a vacuum? I did it with with this It will help you to clean better in the corners without any dust at your comfortable pace.
Not that much airborne dust when used "dry", just a heavy patina collects on the Floor ...and if a light spray of water is applied, almost no dust at all. You simply squeegee the "mud" up, and then after the floor is dry, sweep up the remaining residue.

Home Depot might have a Floor Polisher / Maintainer or similar that both can use the Smoothing Tool and that has a Dust Bag, but that should not be the defining limitation.


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Talking to them.

Well furgudnessake....shop around at actual Tool Rental locations, not just Home Depot. You do pay for HD convenience. The actual Tool Rental Places may well be less expensive.

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post #470 of 755 Old 10-18-2019, 09:25 AM
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It definitely is thinset. I need to see if I can rent a machine like what you linked.
All that is is a chipping hammer with a scraper attachment... Any tool rental place will have it.. Probably cost you about $40-50 for a day...

Dust will be minimal as you are not grinding it into particulates.. MM had a good idea.. Just grab a spray bottle and mist the area before you scrape it.. That should alleviate any dust that might get airborne..

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post #471 of 755 Old 10-18-2019, 09:39 AM
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All that is is a chipping hammer with a scraper attachment... Any tool rental place will have it.. Probably cost you about $40-50 for a day...

Gotta be a "Rotatory Tool"...not a Chipping Hammer. The later is for removing singular areas with obstructive ridges. The Rotatory Floor Maintenance Tool is designed to do entire floors. But hey! Ya gotta Hang On!


Quote:
Dust will be minimal as you are not grinding it into particulates.. MM had a good idea.. Just grab a spray bottle and mist the area before you scrape it.. That should alleviate any dust that might get airborne..

The only potential issue I can see coming up is if there are heavy deposits up close against the sides of the existing Walls where the edges of the Maintenance Tool cannot get close enough. That may well require individualized attention with a wide (6") Chisel....or the use of the aforementioned Chipping Hammer.


It is not to be considered an unreasonable expense to spend $200.00 total to smooth out a Basement Floor...and it should be completely doable in a Morning's worth of effort. 4 hour Rental? That might be expecting too much in too little time, but certainly a Day's Rental would suffice.

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post #472 of 755 Old 10-18-2019, 09:47 AM
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OP............. Be sure to watch the Video on "How to Use..."

Here

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Gotta be a "Rotatory Tool"...not a Chipping Hammer. The later is for removing singular areas with obstructive ridges. The Rotatory Floor Maintenance Tool is designed to do entire floors. But hey! Ya gotta Hang On!





The only potential issue I can see coming up is if there are heavy deposits up close against the sides of the existing Walls where the edges of the Maintenance Tool cannot get close enough. That may well require individualized attention with a wide (6") Chisel....or the use of the aforementioned Chipping Hammer.


It is not to be considered an unreasonable expense to spend $200.00 total to smooth out a Basement Floor...and it should be completely doable in a Morning's worth of effort. 4 hour Rental? That might be expecting too much in too little time, but certainly a Day's Rental would suffice.
Chipping hammer, Rotary tool, demo hammer... same ish lol...

Before I bought my demo hammer and bits, I rented one from my local tool rental store and it was $40 for the hammer (8 hour rental) and $10 for the bit...

It shouldn't take that long to do his basement.. Sure beats paying $$$$ to some "contractor" who didn't even mention that all it was going to take was scraping the floor, but instead wanted to do some sort of "mortar" to level it..
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post #474 of 755 Old 10-18-2019, 10:10 AM
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Thumbs up Almost like being there...................

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And all the People said Amen.


I'm outta here until Monday.



I need a vacation that ain't nowhere near "Joisey".

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I need a vacation that ain't nowhere near "Joisey".
Me too...

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post #477 of 755 Old 10-19-2019, 05:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Folks - I think I screwed up here. I installed all the rear surround supports as you see here in the picture for my wall speakers but forgot to pull the wire out when drywall happenned. First coat of painting is starting today and tomorrow. Is it too late for me to pull out the wire? Do I need to destroy the sheet rock now or perhaps live without surrounds?

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post #478 of 755 Old 10-19-2019, 05:29 AM
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Cut holes big enough for your hand to reach in and poke the wires where they are suppose to be, It will be easier to drill new holes for the wire rather than stumble around in the dark trying to hit that small hole. Once you get your wire positioned then patch the hole you made to reach in. If you do this carefully the piece of drywall you cut away becomes the patch with a backer board. Watch a few Youtube videos on patching drywall. I see the wires all coiled up with a Zip tie, you will probably need to cut the Zip tie.
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post #479 of 755 Old 10-19-2019, 05:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Cut holes big enough for your hand to reach in and poke the wires where they are suppose to be, It will be easier to drill new holes for the wire rather than stumble around in the dark trying to hit that small hole. Once you get your wire positioned then patch the hole you made to reach in. If you do this carefully the piece of drywall you cut away becomes the patch with a backer board. Watch a few Youtube videos on patching drywall. I see the wires all coiled up with a Zip tie, you will probably need to cut the Zip tie.
Got it. Did not realize it was a two step process but thanks. Hopefully even if he paints today for first coat I could still do it and second coat of paint will cover it after patching.

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post #480 of 755 Old 10-19-2019, 06:00 AM
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A patch will require multiple coats of mud, primer and paint. This is not a one and done project if you want it to be perfect. If you get moving you could get it patched before he gets to the first coat, have him start on other walls. You will want to use "hot" mud, dry drywall joint compound that you mix with water and it sets in 20 minutes, Premixed compound will need to dry overnight.

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