Yes got it. By two step process I meant drilling a hole big enough for hand to get in and second hole to poke to pull the wire out. This will be followed by patching the first hole made. Does not seem insurmountable. I will look at some YouTube videos. The painter is applying only the first coat this weekend.

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I will provide you a diagram and instructions....just do things as instructed....no diversions.


.....and here you go...

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@genaccmiller


See diagram above......hopefully the Painters will do the patching (compound application) for you.....just don't forget to say please.

Do not drill a hole. You have to cut the drywall with a skill knife and preserve the piece of drywall to put it back into place. Drilling will only destroy the drywall. You'll probably have to cut a small hole above the pieces of wood support or you'll never be able to reach in to pull on the wire.



You made a mistake and will just have to do the best you can to fix it.

The diagram doesn't show up. FYI

Painters said they will need to charge extra for patching. I am on my own. Reached out to contractor letting him know they missed pulling the wires out. Let me see what they say before I DIY.

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Yes @MississippiMan explained the same as well. He called me

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Room is already looking dark with gray primer.

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Resolved....thank you!



If you have to do it I strongly suggest you use regular Lightweight Drywall Compound. The Quick Set compound is not very forgiving to NOOBs. Frankly, I don't see the Drywall Contractor being responsible since you left the Wire back inside the Wall...not protruding through the Hole. And besides that...you cannot afford to wait for them to come back...and they probably will make a worse mess of things anyway.

Nope...just hasten and get the job done. Don't worry about the Primer that is up (if they also hit the rear wall) Just get the job done....you should be able to do the repair in two coats...at most three....if you apply the compound lightly each time and focus the sanding primarily around the outside edges, feathering the edge down flush to the surface of the Drywall. The center area just needs smoothing.

If they primed the rear wall and you had to apply compound over the Primer, get a low nap roller and apply primer (VERY LIGHTLY !!!) over the area you repaired so the wall will be ready for the painters when they return.

Yeah what i meant was painters will reprime the wall but to do the patching etc will charge etc. That's why I said I am on my own. I am keeping my fingers crossed that contractor will do something but to your point he may be under the mistaken assumption that I did not tell him. I left the wire there for him to pull out and he has pulled out at other place. So why one would be left out is surprising. I should have caught it earlier but did not have capacity to micromanage each part of the job.

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Today may be a lucky day. I let the contractor know they missed pulling the wire and he said he will make sure the trim Carpenter finds the wire and pulls it through.

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You lucked out with the contractors for once.

Folks - i need your input on this. @Dan Hitchman sent me the following link for carpets. I really like the burgundy color. I found a local carpet guy willing to install at $1.33 per SQ ft inclusive of padding. I am thinking of getting this and asking him to install and then going back to my carpet guy for the other areas of the basement. I thought I will give the local guy my business for the whole basement but his choices are limited and pricing is a bit higher but he is willing to do the media room if I order the carpet. Is this a good approach? All inclusive the price difference between going for joy vs selecting just a generic dark grey shading is $710. Is it worth it?

https://www.flooringinc.com/carpet/j...me-carpet.html

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Not on a budget...because I'm betting you haven't as of yet called and confirmed the Freight charges...which are going to add at minimum $250.00 to that $710.00 Probably more....and the Carpet will come on a Trailer...w/no Lift, and the driver isn't usedto moving Carpet Rolls, He expects to see a Fork Truck with a Carpet Pole. Even smaller Rolls they expect someone to be there to take it off the Tail Gate.

Here's the thing...unless your prepared to pay the premium for such Theater-Type Carpet, pay for Delivery, hoist it off the Truck and get it inside and "DOWN THE BASEMENT STAIRS" you should make arrangements with whatever company will accept the order at their business location, bring it out, and install it. Expect to ante up something extra for delivery because they are not making anything on the Carpet itself.

Or select something local to lay down....my Goodness...it's New Jersey....you cannot have ran out of local options yet.

Home Depot. Nice Dark Grey "Pattern-free" Carpet. Free Installation on jobs over $400.00
Here.

Now go get some work done...I'm gonna go roast Hot Dogs w/friends.

Gross understatement of the problem at hand.

That includes shipping and the local guy is willing to receive it and bring it with him to install at no extra cost.

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This looks really good. I don't know why but I am not receiving notifications anymore. If I had, I would have seen this earlier.

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Ceiling looks really black with two coats. Can't see much with lights on. Can't see anything with lights off. Used Sherwin Williams tricorn black which is the darkest black they have.

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I see a 115"diagonal image in your future...........detailed Framing Plans later tonight.

Took a short break to do the diagram below................now, back to my BBQ





PS.............SW-Tricorn Black is among the most popular and oft used choice when people balk at the cost of Rosco Super Saturated Paint.

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Thanks for the validation. If anyone is interested the color id for Sherwin Williams tricorn black is SW 6258.

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The 2.5" "Step Back" provides a needed structural overlap for the upcoming 1x3 Spandex Wrapped Panels

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Thank you for this. This certainly looks extremely robust. Let me see what I can do.

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As we discussed....the build above addresses the need to create more vertical support at / in from each side and at each end of the Center panels (Top and Bottom) and the smaller 12.8" Vertical panels that frame the Screen Panel, as well as add a much needed additional 2.5" leeway for the Projector's Throw distance / Zoom allowance if a 118" to 119" diagonal Screen is desired. Still undecided? In the least you will have a 117" diagonal easily accommodated.

With matching Top Plates, and by using hand picked Lumber for the Vertical Studs, a straight, solid assembly should be the end result. Use a Chalk Line to layout both Top and Bottom Plates...and check and double check your measurements.

Since you have the Kreg Tool, drilling two opposing holes and then using regular Construction Screws to place each Vertical Stud should get you a very sturdy and accurate assembly.


Here's a Tip...(see below) When placing a Vertical Stud onto a Top /Bottom Plate, draw your measured Line for one side and put two Screws 1/3rd way in at a slight angle on the opposite side to serve as temporary blocks the set the stud against while you screw it into place on the opposite side. You cab also use a small 2x4 Block to the same effect.

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How do I interpret the estimated image brightness foot Lambert on projector central? At a 11.8 feet distance and 118 inch screen size and gain of 0.7, it's showing me estimated image brightness manufacturer spec of 40fl. Is the optimal to try to get it to 16fl?

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The ceiling looks great...nice work. Did you spray it or use a roller?

They sprayed it.

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Wow.


Absolutely not! You will need every bit of lumen derived brightness the Spandex can muster. Especially when and if you ever play a 4K HDR Title.

Spraying is all preferred with Black...and applying it over the Grey primer.......priceless.

I'll be painting my room soon and have been hesitant over the years in using a sprayer (making a mess (over-spraying etc) with lackluster results being a newbie).