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post #31 of 1137 Old 08-15-2019, 07:02 AM
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The contract does not include ceiling insulation. Is there a reason to spend on installing insulation in ceiling? The contractor says that's not standard.

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insulation is part of a sound isolation strategy for finished basements and theater spaces, but it does very little by itself.
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post #32 of 1137 Old 08-15-2019, 07:41 AM - Thread Starter
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You might use it in the 2-3 areas where you have the weep holes, just a few sheets not the entire basement.
they have agreed to put four drywalls of green board in that area at no extra cost.

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post #33 of 1137 Old 08-15-2019, 08:41 AM - Thread Starter
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how many people do you plan on inviting into your theater space and what equipment will you be using? when you close the doors how will you address the build up of heat and what happens when the CO2 level reaches and uncomfortable level? Yes you need a HVAC supply duct in the theater, and at least a passive return like a gap under the door. I'm frankly baffled why your contractor didn't discuss this with you. Are they doing any HVAC for the basement finishing project or do they just expect you to crack a window?
Jeff - thank you for this wonderful suggestion. You are right and I did not think about this. They have a supply and return vent planned in the main areas. In the past I did not intend putting a double door to theater room. So I did not think about asking for vents. Now that I am putting double doors and your suggestion on this I asked them about the same. They were planning on building a cabinet around the sump pit (which does not have a pump). I have asked them not to do it. I would install cut my own plywood to close it. So I get back a $250 credit. They will install a supply vent in the theater for $215 with passive return under the door. So I still will get a $35 credit which I intend using towards the double doors. Thanks for this timely suggestion.

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post #34 of 1137 Old 08-15-2019, 09:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Work in progress photos.

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post #35 of 1137 Old 08-15-2019, 12:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Framing in progress photos.

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post #36 of 1137 Old 08-15-2019, 01:32 PM
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post #37 of 1137 Old 08-15-2019, 02:43 PM - Thread Starter
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fast
Yes extremely fast. In one day finished framing. Just wondering what it would have taken me if I attempted myself. May not have progressed a lot I guess.

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post #38 of 1137 Old 08-15-2019, 02:51 PM - Thread Starter
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A number of my replies seem to be missing.

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post #39 of 1137 Old 08-15-2019, 03:00 PM
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Why not use a minisplit for aircon and heating? I use one in my basement since it also didn't have any HVAC hooked up to it. Works great.
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post #40 of 1137 Old 08-15-2019, 05:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Folks - framing is completed. I wanted to show the theater room.

1. Picture 1 - this picture shows that the main entry to under the stairs will be from the other side. On the side behind the AT screen which I plan to construct, there will be another door giving me access to behind the speakers when I walk under the stairs.

2. Picture 2 - shows the opening for the 56 inch door. I had to ask them to extend the frame for the door a bit on the right side. If I had gone with a 60 inch double door it left me only 19 inches between the place where I would have the AT screen and the back wall. So I asked them to reduce it to 56 inches so that I have more room to work with and my Studio 590s can easily fit behind.

3. Picture 3 - shows the other end of that wall where I asked them to extend the wall and build it out. This will be sheetrocked so that it will be a wall behind the AT screen.

4. Picture 4 - Shows the ac supply line they added (thanks @BIGmouthinDC )

5. Picture 5 and 6 - shows the framing around soffits. I asked them to leave as much headroom for me. So they framed to the least height possible.



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post #41 of 1137 Old 08-15-2019, 05:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gooch02000 View Post
Why not use a minisplit for aircon and heating? I use one in my basement since it also didn't have any HVAC hooked up to it. Works great.
Maybe a good option but they have already put the supply vent.

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post #42 of 1137 Old 08-16-2019, 08:24 PM - Thread Starter
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The electrician is scheduled to be here in the next 5 days. I am thinking of asking for a dedicated 15 amp circuit for my subwoofer and dedicated 20 amp circuit for all other equipment. The equipments to include are receiver, DVD player, projector and perhaps an amp and ups. I am planning to have the equipment rack in a small closet room. Therefore that is where i am going to have him provide this. Is there anything additional I should ask for?

I have spoken to an av wiring guy who charges $500 for wiring with me providing all parts. I already have all parts. Is this something I could attempt as DIY?

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post #43 of 1137 Old 08-18-2019, 06:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kgveteran View Post
Good luck with the build. I love my AT screen, and my x4300, an earlier x4400.
Wire for 7.1.4 so add ons are easier, dont skimp on subwoofer(s) they can be the heart of most movies !
Did you start a build thread?

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post #44 of 1137 Old 08-18-2019, 08:30 AM
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Extra circuits are really cheap, will help future proof your equipment demands, and will prevent any line sag from too much equipment on one circuit. Go for no less than three 20 amp outlets.
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post #45 of 1137 Old 08-18-2019, 08:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Extra circuits are really cheap, will help future proof your equipment demands, and will prevent any line sag from too much equipment on one circuit. Go for no less than three 20 amp outlets.
As in one for subwoofer in the room and two 20 amps for the equipment room?

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post #46 of 1137 Old 08-18-2019, 09:33 AM
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At a minimum, I'd do a dedicated 15 or 20 amp for the projector, a 20 for the processor/amps/receiver, a 20 for the sub(s), and a 20 for everything else that could be shared with the rest of the room.
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post #47 of 1137 Old 08-18-2019, 09:43 AM - Thread Starter
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At a minimum, I'd do a dedicated 15 or 20 amp for the projector, a 20 for the processor/amps/receiver, a 20 for the sub(s), and a 20 for everything else that could be shared with the rest of the room.
Can you clarify the last part about 20 for everything else shared?

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post #48 of 1137 Old 08-18-2019, 09:52 AM
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Can you clarify the last part about 20 for everything else shared?

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I think he is referring to lights and non-equipment outlets.

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post #49 of 1137 Old 08-18-2019, 09:53 AM
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I assume you'll want some outlets in the theater room itself, not just the equipment area. You'll need to vacuum the theater, may charge a phone during a movie, may need to use some wired power tools in the theater to fix something, etc
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post #50 of 1137 Old 08-18-2019, 09:55 AM - Thread Starter
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I assume you'll want some outlets in the theater room itself, not just the equipment area. You'll need to vacuum the theater, may charge a phone during a movie, may need to use some wired power tools in the theater to fix something, etc
Yes they would be standard outlets installed every 6 feet or so per code.

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post #51 of 1137 Old 08-18-2019, 11:30 AM
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It's coming together! Awesome! Can't wait to see more pics of the progress.

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post #52 of 1137 Old 08-18-2019, 01:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Folks - I need to get some feedback. It's a fairly small theater room and I purchased the three JBL studio 590s and two studio 580s. My dream was to have this theater with an AT screen with the JBLs behind. However if I now look to place the At screen and then the huge speakers behind then it will only leave 12 feet (approx) between the screen and the end of the opposite wall. So is AT screen a good choice given this or should I change what I planned. What I am concerned about is the attached. Do you see the space between the left side door extension to the wall studs? I will need to fit my screen and the big speakers here and there won't be much breathing room and the distance then from the screen to back wall will be 12 feet. So will it be too cramped? If I drop my idea of AT screen then I am screwed a bit because the center channel on the 590 I purchased is vertical, not horizontal. In the attached picture ignore the stud in-between as that is load bearing and does not really impact speaker placement. If I go with At screen, one speaker would be to the left of it (looking at it from front) and the center, sub and right side speakers will be on the right side. That stud will just not be sheetrocked as it will be behind the at screen. But my main concern is the space itself for the at screen and speakers behind.

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post #53 of 1137 Old 08-18-2019, 03:48 PM
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Do one row of seating, 120 inch wide screen, and sit 10 feet back from the screen
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post #54 of 1137 Old 08-18-2019, 05:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Do one row of seating, 120 inch wide screen, and sit 10 feet back from the screen
Yes I was planning either one row of seating or a sectional with ottoman at front and sitting 10 feet away. Isn't that still too small of a distance?

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post #55 of 1137 Old 08-18-2019, 05:50 PM
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No, sitting 1 screen width back from the screen is perfect imo.
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post #56 of 1137 Old 08-19-2019, 05:04 AM - Thread Starter
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One of the things I had done yesterday was to have a plumber come out and change a few things before we close up the ceiling. In the first picture below, that is a valve to the water outlet in the backyard where you would attach a garden hose. I saw a bluish green substance around it. So I had it replaced with a ball valve. The picture number 2 shows the water line to the fridge. That had a saddle valve and a vinyl tubing. I had him replace it with a t junction, another type of valve and a stainless steel tube to the fridge. In addition to these (picture not shown) I had the plumber swap out a valve in the closet that was after the water meter that controlled the water into the house with a ball valve as the old valve did not close correctly. The plumber was a little bit old school. He basically used a blow torch to cut the valve and then put in the new valves and welded. Not sure if new construction happens this way. Hopefully it holds up.

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post #57 of 1137 Old 08-19-2019, 05:09 AM
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Your contractor will need to install access panels for the valves, be sure they do. At least per code, you can live on the edge and drywall right over and hope they never leak, If they do leak you will spot a damp spot on the ceiling and the plumber will just cut away a part of the drywall do the repair and then you will need to bring someone in to repair the drywall. The valve to the outside bib is to cut off the water in the winter so that water in the valve doesn't freeze and bust the pipe. It happens in my area all the time. You close the inside valve and open the outside spigot as you prepare for winter.

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post #58 of 1137 Old 08-19-2019, 05:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Folks - I need some input on av wiring. Picture 3 below shows a small closet that will be adjacent to the theater room. Picture 4 shows under the stairs accessible space in the front of the room. Picture 1 shows the beams in the ceiling running from right of the room to the left of the room. I need to determine where to put the A/v equipment - in the closet next to the water heater or in the under the stairs space. If I choose the under the stairs space I cannot get wiring to it as the space under the stairs is sheet rocked. So I will need to find some way to drill through the sheet rock. Additionally I will need to make holes in the ceiling beams to run the wire from back to the front of the room. It already has a number of holes where the old owner put in some wires. So I am worried if I will sacrifice structural integrity. If I choose the closet on the left of the room, I could run some wires parallel to the beams using low voltage Staples and some would need to go through the beams. However I will run into issues in using a conduit for projector wiring because it will need to run straight from projector to middle of the room and then take a left turn to make it to the closet and running conduits at 90 degree is a bad idea. Any thoughts on the right way to wire this room?

In terms of wiring this is what I am thinking of doing. Any additions?

1. Run speaker wires for 5.1 set up.
2. Run HDMI cables and two cat 6s to the projector.
3. Run one Ethernet cable from modem upstairs to equipment rack.

The room is small enough that I may not need a seven channel or overhead Atmos. Also is there a reason to run redundant wiring as in use two speaker wires instead of one for each speaker in case one goes bad? Audioholics recommends a 4 conductor wire. It's a bit too late now as I just came upon this yesterday as I have already purchased a 14-2 from monoprice.

I also read last night on audioholics to run romex between the projector and the av rack so that ups or something else can be used at the equipment rack. Is this necessary instead of just an outlet where the projector will be?

Also how easy is speaker wiring? An av guy will do it for $500. Should I hire out or attempt myself?

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post #59 of 1137 Old 08-19-2019, 05:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
Your contractor will need to install access panels for the valves, be sure they do. At least per code, you can live on the edge and drywall right over and hope they never leak, If they do leak you will spot a damp spot on the ceiling and the plumber will just cut away a part of the drywall do the repair and then you will need to bring someone in to repair the drywall. The valve to the outside bib is to cut off the water in the winter so that water in the valve doesn't freeze and bust the pipe. It happens in my area all the time. You close the inside valve and open the outside spigot as you prepare for winter.
Yes Jeff. They have marked all places where access panels need to be provided with a pink ribbon. I think they missed out the fridge line. I can add it.

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post #60 of 1137 Old 08-19-2019, 05:52 AM
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you can cut holes for wires in ceiling joists, from the picture you have manufactured joists and the vendor usually publishes guidelines of size and location limits
https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=h...s.pdf&pdf=true
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