Originally Posted by genaccmiller
That would have been easy but per the attached diagram earlier provided it says to anchor the blocks first before setting in place. Perhaps I misinterpreted. Regardless the end result is good. So I am not going to sweat having wasted a little bit extra time on this one step unless you would recommend taking it down and redoing it by using the nail from the bottom. I can do it and is not a big deal. Just wondering if I should do it. Let me know.
It would be redundant to redo if the assembly is firm and correctly placed. It seems to be.
Going forward, anytime you think you can see that there is a better, more practical way that what seems to be presented...simply ask about it before moving ahead. Little things can be changed before the die is cast....not so much after the fact.
In my rush to get that Drawing out to you as requested, I just left a couple words out and / or misplaced and that was all it took. My original plan was for you to put those blocks onto the section of Top Plate before it was set into place, such as @PreciseD
mentioned, which would have also made screwing into the same blocks from underneath very obvious... but again...you just moved a bit faster than any correction or restatement and got the Top Plate up before it was actually needed. (Wall uprights first....remember?) I knew you had the Kreg...and when you told me you had mounted the Top Plate, it just never occurred to me you'd put the pocket holes into the Blocks 1st but put the bottom Plate assembly next. Again...not an issue as everything seems to have worked out...so let's "let it go"
On another front..........
Now I see you bringing up the forward Can lights again when that too has been talked about...a lot, and a readily done, easy solution has already been discussed. That sort of re-discussion is what leads to more indecision when none is needed.
As I have stated before, by simply installing lower wattage Halogen Floods and Wall Wash Can Lens in the Front Cans, Lenses that direct the light toward the rear and away from the screen...and installing Spots in the remaining Cans, you can use a Lutron Maestro IR-RF controlled Dimmer and pretty much make the room illumination be whatever is called for.
Low Voltage Smart Lamps and specialty Dimmers are not inexpensive, and limited in really effective Lumen output. Also, Low Lumen Low Voltage Spots are both rare and more so, just do not come in lamp "Neck" sizes that work with those oversized 6" Cans. Using Halogens eliminates the concerns of Size, availability and expense.
I'm not sure why anytime you have another question you seem to worry that you'll be required to "rip out" or take down existing work. I suppose it's just unfamiliarity with doing things and thinking of the right solutions (...or asking for them...) and then doing. Yeah...that one section of Top Plate needed adjusting, but you made it through that with flying colors after asking for advice. That is the proper sequence.
Now we are heading into the Home Stretch. Don't wander out of your lane. Don't stumble and loose your footing. Just put those Blinders on...follow your lead and listen to the Jockey's instructions. Please, don't think he's on your back....he's just got your back
. This last stage is both important and will be pretty straightforward if you ask 1st and then stick to a given plan as given.