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post #61 of 1137 Old 08-19-2019, 06:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
you can cut holes for wires in ceiling joists, from the picture you have manufactured joists and the vendor usually publishes guidelines of size and location limits
https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=h...s.pdf&pdf=true
Thank. I will read through on my computer as Tapatalk is unable to open the link. Should I run wires to the space under stairs or to the closet on the side given the other constraints I provided?

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post #62 of 1137 Old 08-19-2019, 06:52 AM
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I think you can make either work, The space under the stairs will be awkward to access if you put your false wall where you are planning. Hard to tell looking at the picture if there is a door framed in on the other side. if not another opportunity for them to add an upcharge. Either space may need to be ventilated if you add a lot of equipment.

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post #63 of 1137 Old 08-19-2019, 07:05 AM - Thread Starter
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I think you can make either work, The space under the stairs will be awkward to access if you put your false wall where you are planning. Hard to tell looking at the picture if there is a door framed in on the other side. if not another opportunity for them to add an upcharge. Either space may need to be ventilated if you add a lot of equipment.
Jeff - for the space underneath the stairs there will be an access door from the other side. Then there will be another door leading to the back of the screen as the attached first picture shows. If I use this approach, do you see the second circle showing the interior of the stairs sheet rocked? I don't have way to bring the wires through that to the equipment rack under the stairs unless I drill through them (which I could) and they can sheet rock on the outside. But this also means my runs of wires will need to go through each ceiling joist. With respect to ventilation, what additional ventilation should I provide?

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post #64 of 1137 Old 08-21-2019, 06:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Folks - electrician will be here tomorrow. This is what I am planning to ask him to do and it will depend on cost options he comes up with. Is there anything additional in the list below to ask for?

1. Three 20 amp dedicated circuits to the room for A/v split as one line for projector, one line for the subwoofers (start with one subwoofer and later upgrade if necessary to two subwoofers sharing same circuit) and one line for all other equipment (receiver, amplifier, bluray). Any specific to be asked on same side versus opposite side on the panel? Also what should I do if current panel will not support adding additional three. Is there a certain minimum I should shoot for?

2. For the two subwoofer outlets and one projector outlet, run romex to the equipment rack where an inlet is to be provided. This is to ensure I can plug my projector into a ups and everything else into surge protectors.

Cost will be a big factor in all this but just so that I know can anyone help me ballpark the approximate cost estimate you would feel is reasonable for the above?

Cost of wiring recessed lights is included. Any thoughts on placement or other ideas or how many I may need in the room?

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post #65 of 1137 Old 08-21-2019, 06:13 AM - Thread Starter
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As I said earlier my room size is limited and i need to put the couch against the back wall. For speakers i want to start with a 5. set up and may later move to a 7. set up. The Dolby speaker set up guide has two speakers on the left and right of the seating position and two speakers in the back. I have purchased two JBL studio 580s for surrounds. My questions are:

1. Given my room constraint above and given that I want to start with a 5. set up should I design for the 580s to be on the left and right of seating position regardless of the fact that the Dolby guide says surrounds in a 5. should be behind seating position?

2. For the rear surrounds should I wire for in-wall given the space constraints?

Or the other option is just to do a 5. set up given room size constraints and have the surrounds on left and right of the seating pointing towards the seating and not adding an extra two channels. I think this will suffice given the small room size.


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post #66 of 1137 Old 08-21-2019, 03:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Can anyone help out before electrician visit tomorrow?

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post #67 of 1137 Old 08-21-2019, 05:17 PM
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there is nothing wrong with your plans, however their are alternatives for your subwoofers, just use outlet based plug-in surge protectors, The remaining two 20s that go to the equipment stack don't have to be split projector and other, plug a UPS in to one for the projector but you can also plug other items into the surge protector and the other part of the outlet. You don't need 20 amps to run a projector, it has a 300W+/- bulb.
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post #68 of 1137 Old 08-21-2019, 06:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
there is nothing wrong with your plans, however their are alternatives for your subwoofers, just use outlet based plug-in surge protectors, The remaining two 20s that go to the equipment stack don't have to be split projector and other, plug a UPS in to one for the projector but you can also plug other items into the surge protector and the other part of the outlet. You don't need 20 amps to run a projector, it has a 300W+/- bulb.
Thank you. Is this what you mean?

1. Three 20 amp circuits
2. Of this, one 20 amp for two subs but each running a local surge protector, no romex to Central location
3. For projector, run romex from projector outlet to the av room (not a live one) and terminate with an inlet which plugs into the 20 amp circuit with ups. I can use this for future expansion. Also is this the only option or some local solution like what you recommended for subwoofer can be done here too?
4. Use the last 20 amp circuit in the av rack room for equipment (receiver, amp, DVD etc.)

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post #69 of 1137 Old 08-22-2019, 04:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Folks - electrician was here today and finished the first day worth of work. He will be finishing up tomorrow. This is what we have decided:

1. Two 20amp dedicated circuits to the av rack closet. Each 20amp dedicated circuit is $211. So there was a cost constraint due to which I could not do three 20 amp circuits. I think this will be sufficient for what I intend to use.

2. There will be one dummy Romex run from the projector where an outlet will be provided to the avrack where another outlet will be provided. Once inspection is done, I will need to remove the outlet at the av rack, convert it to an inlet and connect it to a UPS that plugs into one of the dedicated 20amp circuits so that the projector is protected.

3. I asked them to do the same thing with the two subwoofer locations at the front and back of the room and they said it's $128 per outlet. Luckily the projector run above was included. I did not want to spend extra $256 on this. So once inspection is done I will install my own powerbridge for the front subwoofer that will connect to the 20amp circuit. I don't have plan for a second subwoofer right now. When the day comes for it I will think about it.
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post #70 of 1137 Old 08-22-2019, 05:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Room size dimensions. Read from front to back. After building AT screen I will have about 12.58 feet to the back wall. Any recommendations on screen size for a 16:9 - 110, 120 or 135 inches?

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post #71 of 1137 Old 08-25-2019, 10:14 AM
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Room size dimensions. Read from front to back. After building AT screen I will have about 12.58 feet to the back wall. Any recommendations on screen size for a 16:9 - 110, 120 or 135 inches?

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135" is too big. It's a toss up between 110" and 120". If you truly want more wiggle room for 7.1.4 in the future, I would go with 110" and play it safe.

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post #72 of 1137 Old 08-25-2019, 05:11 PM - Thread Starter
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135" is too big. It's a toss up between 110" and 120". If you truly want more wiggle room for 7.1.4 in the future, I would go with 110" and play it safe.
Thanks Dan. The issue I am running into is I am not sure which standards are the right one online as the THX recommendation vs. others vs what people have reported here vary so widely. I guess it's going to come down to individual comfort level. I think I will need to buy the projector first and project multiple image sizes and see.

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post #73 of 1137 Old 08-25-2019, 07:35 PM
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Thanks Dan. The issue I am running into is I am not sure which standards are the right one online as the THX recommendation vs. others vs what people have reported here vary so widely. I guess it's going to come down to individual comfort level. I think I will need to buy the projector first and project multiple image sizes and see.

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Yup. That’s what a lot of folks end up doing. You play around with the seating distance and screen size until you get a combo that is most comfortable. Then you lock it down and order the screen, measure how wide your left and right speakers are going to be sitting and being angled in relation to your seating distance to screen, and then start construction on your false wall.

After you know your main seating location, you will know where to place the side surrounds in relation to them.

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post #74 of 1137 Old 08-29-2019, 05:21 AM - Thread Starter
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I now need to finished av wiring before calling for inspection. Can you please review the below list and let me know if I am missing anything?

1. Wiring for the speakers. I already bought the inwall rated 14g from monoprice
2. RCA cable for subwoofer. Any recommendations on what to look for from inwall perspective?
3. Conduit for projector. Preferably two.
4. HDMI cable for projector through conduit
5. Two cat 6 cables through conduit for projector with both being backup if HDMI fails

Anything else I am missing?

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post #75 of 1137 Old 08-29-2019, 06:08 AM
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2. solid copper core, not copper clad steel. this one, https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=2683
5. if you have a good conduit, If your HDMI fails just pull in a new one, no need for the cat6s.
Sat/cable/Ethernet cables to equipment stack

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post #76 of 1137 Old 08-29-2019, 06:23 AM - Thread Starter
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2. solid copper core, not copper clad steel. this one, https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=2683
5. if you have a good conduit, If your HDMI fails just pull in a new one, no need for the cat6s.
Sat/cable/Ethernet cables to equipment stack
Thank you.

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post #77 of 1137 Old 08-29-2019, 06:31 AM - Thread Starter
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2. solid copper core, not copper clad steel. this one, https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=2683
5. if you have a good conduit, If your HDMI fails just pull in a new one, no need for the cat6s.
Sat/cable/Ethernet cables to equipment stack
Quick question. After running HDMI through conduit, can I take it through the wall to the equipment closet behind the stairs or will inspector object? The following is the HDMI I have. If not is there another option as it is too late to return.

Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable - Black - 30 Feet | [email protected], HDR, 18Gbps, 24AWG, YUV 4:4:4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7JTTNR..._6v8zDbV837E77

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post #78 of 1137 Old 08-29-2019, 06:42 AM
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why doesn't the conduit go into the closet?

but generally HDMI can go through a wall. yours however is not rated for in wall use, Inspectors usually pay no attention to low voltage wiring except how it breaks draft stopping.

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post #79 of 1137 Old 08-29-2019, 07:25 AM - Thread Starter
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why doesn't the conduit go into the closet?

but generally HDMI can go through a wall. yours however is not rated for in wall use, Inspectors usually pay no attention to low voltage wiring except how it breaks draft stopping.
Because of this picture. If you look at the wall it has existing sheetrock behind the partially where the stairs is on other side. My plan was to run the conduit to the top of the wall to the red circle you see and then drop the hdmi down. For speaker cables I planned to run without conduit until the red circle and drop down and then take it through studs to under the stairs. For conduit I wanted to end at the top and then drop the hdmi down so that I don't need to do the conduit at right angle and have difficulty routing the wire through. Is there a better approach?



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post #80 of 1137 Old 08-29-2019, 07:37 AM
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If you aren’t going for 99% soundproof theater, then i recommend the double doors. They look much nicer and allow you to move equipment and seats in/out much easier.
Sorry to stick my nose where it doesn't belong but I thought the same thing while building my theater. I went with a 36" door with the notion it would be easier to get theater seating and other things in and out of that space. Then I realized the door from the 1st floor stairs to the basement is only 30" so the larger solid core door I bought was just a waste of money. If the door to the theater is larger than any other door from the path of delivery it's purely aesthetic and not functional.
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post #81 of 1137 Old 08-29-2019, 08:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Sorry to stick my nose where it doesn't belong but I thought the same thing while building my theater. I went with a 36" door with the notion it would be easier to get theater seating and other things in and out of that space. Then I realized the door from the 1st floor stairs to the basement is only 30" so the larger solid core door I bought was just a waste of money. If the door to the theater is larger than any other door from the path of delivery it's purely aesthetic and not functional.
You are right. I did not consider that. However the framing is now done for a double door. So I think it's a bit late now.

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post #82 of 1137 Old 08-29-2019, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
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why doesn't the conduit go into the closet?

but generally HDMI can go through a wall. yours however is not rated for in wall use, Inspectors usually pay no attention to low voltage wiring except how it breaks draft stopping.
Because of this picture. If you look at the wall it has existing sheetrock behind the partially where the stairs is on other side. My plan was to run the conduit to the top of the wall to the red circle you see and then drop the hdmi down. For speaker cables I planned to run without conduit until the red circle and drop down and then take it through studs to under the stairs. For conduit I wanted to end at the top and then drop the hdmi down so that I don't need to do the conduit at right angle and have difficulty routing the wire through. Is there a better approach?



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Hold up... I thought you were putting the equipment in the closet space to the side of the theater with access just off the entrance to the theater room? You would also not have need of such a long HDMI cable to the projector, which can potentially cause problems with wider bandwidth 4k signals. As you describe it, the HDMI cable is going all the way to the front of the room.

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post #83 of 1137 Old 08-29-2019, 08:54 AM
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You are right. I did not consider that. However the framing is now done for a double door. So I think it's a bit late now.

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I was really frustrated looking at my framed opening and the big door sitting in my garage every day that I didn't want and couldn't return but these are things you learn as you go when you're not in the trade.
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post #84 of 1137 Old 08-29-2019, 08:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Hold up... I thought you were putting the equipment in the closet space to the side of the theater with access just off the entrance to the theater room? You would also not have need of such a long HDMI cable to the projector, which can potentially cause problems with wider bandwidth 4k signals. As you describe it, the HDMI cable is going all the way to the front of the room.
Hi Dan - that was a few iterations before until I noticed that there are existing holes drilled through the joists by the previous owner that I could reuse without drilling new holes. That's why I made a decision to have equipment rack under stairs. It's also now wired for two 20amp circuits. It also will help me keep the conduit straight instead of a right angle to the projector. This is a shift from my original intention but had to make a decision at run time when electrician was here. Also my HDMI cable is 30 feet long and this run will need less than 20 feet only.

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post #85 of 1137 Old 08-29-2019, 09:01 AM - Thread Starter
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I was really frustrated looking at my framed opening and the big door sitting in my garage every day that I didn't want and couldn't return but these are things you learn as you go when you're not in the trade.
Yes I think from aesthetic perspective double door looks good.

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post #86 of 1137 Old 08-29-2019, 11:01 AM
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Right angles are OK for your conduit, but you need to use the sweeping curve fittings.
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post #87 of 1137 Old 08-29-2019, 11:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
Right angles are OK for your conduit, but you need to use the sweeping curve fittings.
The below conduit is what I plan to use. As I see it's flexible. So where would I use the sweeping curve fitting?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1...-200/202765924

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post #88 of 1137 Old 08-29-2019, 12:35 PM
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not sure you can fit an hdmi cable in 1/2 inch smurf tube. I normally use this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/JM-eagle...7470/100196693
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post #89 of 1137 Old 08-29-2019, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by genaccmiller View Post
The below conduit is what I plan to use. As I see it's flexible. So where would I use the sweeping curve fitting?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1...-200/202765924

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I would go with what Jeff recommended. Much easier to work with. That Smurf tube is too narrow.
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post #90 of 1137 Old 08-29-2019, 02:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
not sure you can fit an hdmi cable in 1/2 inch smurf tube. I normally use this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/JM-eagle...7470/100196693
Thank you. I did not know you could use PVC inside walls. You learn something new everyday. Also this is much cheaper than Smurf tube.

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